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Video: Zenith and Aaron Rodgers Team for New Chronomaster Sport 

 

By Gary Girdvainis 

Since it first launched, Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport has seen a variety of cases, dials, sizes and colors. Today, Zenith is releasing a collaboration on a new Chronomaster Sport with brand ambassador Aaron Rodgers, four-time NFL MVP and future football Hall of Fame quarterback.

The new Zenith Chronometer Sport developed with Aaron Rodgers.

Taking on the New York Jets team color, “Gotham” Green (pantone – PMS 7484 C), Zenith’s newest member of the Chronomaster Sport series keeps all the quality points and construction of its 41mm predecessors – this time in the affiliated garb of the brand’s favorite pigskin protagonist.

The El Primero Striking Tenth, which Zenith debuted in 2011, elevated the chronograph function to a logical zenith in human-actuated interval timekeeping. Zenith did this by taking the already high-speed El Primero movement beating at ten beats per second and adding a center chronograph seconds hand that moves along in 1/10th seconds intervals when actuated.

This finite timing, which breaks the second into tenths, is really at the very peak of human reaction time and represents both technical prowess and logical functionality. Of course there are mechanical watches that divide the second into hundredths, or even thousands, but when the best human reaction times to stimuli are at about .15 seconds, dividing the second into such small increments is more an example of technical achievement than actual useful functionality.

In addition to sporting the Gotham Green dial and bezel, this limited edition also has Aaron Rodgers’ logo engraved on the sapphire crystal back. Price: $12,800. 

See www.zenith-watches.com for more details. 

Here’s my take on the new watch:

 

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The Watches

Bremont Updates Supermarine GMT

British watchmaker Bremont updates its Supermarine GMT dive watch collection of 40mm steel watches with a trio of models now featuring a 24-hour GMT bezel with an inner 60-minute scale, all presented with new colors and updated hand designs.

One of three updated Bremont Supermarine S302 models.

The new Supermarine S302 emphasizes its GMT mode on the bezel, and as a result we see a new model with a very cool bi-color blue and green aluminum 24-hour unidirectional rotating bezel.

A second model, a limited edition Supermarine Ocean chronometer (and boasting its chronometer rating on the dial) offers a sharp-looking grey-dial with blue SuperLuminova indexes.

A second update, the Supermarine Ocean, is a limited edition of 400.

Look for new blue SuperLumiNova coating on indexes and hands and a contrasting green hue applied to the GMT hands on the debuts. All the new S302 models are also outfitted with an automatic GMT (ETA-based) movement with 50-hour power reserve and a date display. All are also water resistant to 300 meters.

A third model in all-black livery, the S302 Jet edition, is cased in black DLC complemented by a black ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel and a sandblasted black dial.

The Bremont Supermarine Jet.

Upcoming Debuts

New CEO Davide Cerrato explains that the update to the Jet edition is “just a little bit sexier,” than existing all-black Jet editions, hinting at further debuts later this year.

“In November, we will arrive with some new additions of the 500-meter Supermarine models,” he explains. “We are focusing on adventure inspiration. This revolves around the idea that nothing is impossible. And we use explorers and adventurers to back this up,” he adds. 

One of those adventurers is marine biologist Ocean Ramsey and her partner Juan Oliphant. Both will wear the new grey-dialed Supermarine Ocean (limited to 400 pieces) during their aquatic research on sharks and on turtle conservation. Bremont is donating a percentage of proceeds from all Supermarine Ocean watch sales to the ocean conservation charity Save the Turtles International.

Prices: Supermarine S302 Blue-Green: Strap: $3,750 (rubber or brown vintage leather strap) and $4,200 (bracelet),

Supermarine S302 GMT Jet: $4,250 (vintage leather or rubber),

Supermarine S302 Ocean Limited: $4,000 (rubber or brown vintage leather strap) and $4,450 (bracelet).

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The Watches

Porsche Design Revives Military Chronograph 

Porsche Design revives a late-1970s military flyback chronograph with the new Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition, the watchmaker’s first titanium carbide chronograph not connected to a specific Porsche sports car.

The new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition.

By making the new watch using a titanium carbide case instead of a steel case like the original model, Porsche Design makes the chronograph’s case more scratch-resistant, much lighter and hypoallergenic.

But by remaking the matte black dial and using same easy-to-read font of the original, the watchmaker has created a technically updated ode to that 1979 design. 

While the dial of the historical model (which was made for the flying squadron of the U.S. Air Force) featured a tiger’s head, the new watch offers a screaming marmot image between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock.

The “Mankei” (marmot) name on the dial also refers to the Mankeiwirt, Ferdi Porsche’s newly opened destination for car enthusiasts located near Studio F. A. Porsche in Zell am See, Austria. 

In addition to the font and technical features, the Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition also pays homage to its historical model in several other ways. 

A new “TiC” logo is placed in the characteristic position between 1 and 2 o’clock on the dial referencing the use of titanium carbide, and is a modern reinterpretation of the 3H symbol (for tritium) of the military model. Tritium is here replaced by bright blue SuperLuminova.

The watch also features the historic Porsche Design logo on the dial and winding crown. Two dots on the dial at 12 o’clock provide a clear orientation of the displays in the dark.

The new watch (right) with the original model from 1979.

There are few differences of course, most critically the new movement and the larger case size. Originally 38mm, the new watch measures 42.7mm in diameter.

The watch is powered by a COSC-certified Porsche Design WERK 01.240 chronograph caliber that retains the flyback function of the original watch.

The back of the the new Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition, showing the aviation style leather strap.

Also new: a thicker seconds hand and a larger minute hand.

Porsche Design attaches the new watch to a slate grey ‘Bund’ strap made of Porsche vehicle leather with a quick-release mechanism. As an additional option, the chronograph also comes with a white textile strap with a badge on which the coordinates of the F.A.T. Ice Race are printed.

The watch also comes with a white textile strap with a badge on which the coordinates of the F.A.T. Ice Race are printed.

Collectors can pre-order the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition now for $13,000. The watch will be available in stores starting January 15, 2024.

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Featured Events

Only Watch 2023 Favorites: F.P. Journe 

This year more than sixty watchmakers have created timepieces for the Only Watch charity auction, which begins Sunday, November 5, in Geneva. Christie’s will auction these incredible one-of-a-kind watches to raise funds that benefit research in the battle against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

While you may have seen a few of the watches set for auction earlier this year when Only Watch announced them, we thought you’d enjoy seeing many of these impressive designs again just ahead of the event.

The watches are currently touring the globe. After a visit to Los Angeles last week and New York until September 17, the tour will visit Monaco next, followed by stops in Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Dubai and back in Geneva. See the Only Watch website for tour dates and details.

We continue our series by highlighting the F. P. Journe entry, called Chronometre Furtif Bleu, a time-only watch that features an unusual blue enamel dial within a complete tantalum case and bracelet. 

The Chronomètre Furtif is so-named in reference to the difficulty of reading the time if the watch is not facing you. Unusually, the blue enamel dial reveals the frosted numerals only in the reflection of light.

In addition, the moon phase and power reserve indications are integrated into the movement and visible only on the back. The idea here to make a watch with indications primarily enjoyed only by its owner.

At the heart of this watch is a new hand-wound mechanical movement, Calibre 1522 in 18-karat rose gold with direct central seconds, a first for F.P.Journe. 

Estimate: CHF 200,000 – 400,000.

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Oris Goes Deep With New AquisPro 4000m

Oris expands its dive watch collection with the AquisPro 4000m, a particularly deep-dive model that also offers an extra-long five-day power reserve.

The new Oris AquisPro 4000m.

Not only is the AquisPro 4000m the most water-resistant diver’s watch we’ve seen from this independent Swiss manufacturer, but its also the sportiest Oris watch to include Oris Calibre 400, a superior automatic mechanical movement that boasts the aforementioned five-day power reserve, plus strong anti-magnetism and chronometric accuracy.

At 49.5mm in diameter, the watch is a wristful, but given its 4,000-meter water resistance rating, thin is out of the question. Check out any of the other Oris dive models for your day-to-day nautical watch needs.

With this new watch, you’ll get professional level features such as the Oris Rotation Safety System bezel, which will lock the unidirectional bezel in place. Also note the serious security folding clasp extension system, which allows the wearer to easily adjusted for length to better fit over a wetsuit.

The watch’s titanium case frames an easy-to-read blue gradient dial with a seaworthy wave pattern.

Oris fits a blue ceramic insert with the requisite minutes scale into the unidirectional bezel and caps off the case with a blue rubber strap.

Very nice.  Price: $6,200.

Recycled net dials

In addition to the new AquisPro 4000m, Oris is also partnering with Bracenet to create new watch dials from recycled fishing nets. The first watch made using the technology is the Oris X Bracenet, an Oris Aquis model outfitted with the swirled, pearlescent blue, green and white dial.

The two new Oris X Bracenet models feature dials made using recycled fishing line material.

Oris explains that to create these dials Bracenet warms small green, blue and white fishing net ‘offcuts’until they melt into a sheet of colorful material. Bracenet then sands the sheet until it’s 0.3mm thick, which Oris then cuts and places into each watch.  The material contains no additives, fillers or glues and no two dials are the same.

Oris will offer two stainless steel versions of the watch, one with a 43.50 mm case and a second with a 36.50 mm case. Each is outfitted with Sellita-based Oris automatic mechanical movements and each features the full set of Aquis dive watch specifications (see below for details.). Price: $2,600.

 

 

Specifications: Oris AquisPro 4000m
(Ref. no. 01 400 7777 7155-Set) 

Case: Multi-piece 49.50mm titanium case, lockable Rotation Safety System bezel, ceramic bezel insert, sapphire crystal domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside. Case back in titanium, screwed with special engravings. Stainless steel screw-in security crown. Water resistance to 4,000 meters.

Movement: Automatic Oris Caliber 400 with 120 hours of power reserve. High-level anti-magnetic protection. 

Dial: Blue gradient with printed wave structure, Super-LumiNova indices. Center hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date, fine timing device and stop-second.

Strap: Blue rubber with titanium security folding clasp with extension. 

Price: $6,200. 

 

Specifications: Oris X Bracenet

Case: Multi-piece 43.5mm and 36.5mm stainless steel with sapphire crystal and screwed, see-through mineral caseback glass, special engravings on case. Stainless steel screw-in security crown with crown protection. Water resistance to 300 meters. 

Movement: Automatic Sellita-based Oris 733 with 38-hours of power reserve.

Dial: End-of-life fishing net material melted and sanded to create unique pattern.  Hands and indices filled with Super-LumiNova. Center hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window at 6 o’clock, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second.

Bracelet Multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet, security folding clasp (43.50 mm version comes with clasp extension). 

Price: $2,600.

 

 

 

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