Just in time for the holiday season, Nomos adds new touches of silver and gold to its Orion collection.
Look for the new members of this minimalist Glashütte classic, namely the new Orion 33 Gold and the Orion 38 Silver, to inject a less-than minimal hint of luxury (or seasonal cheer) to the less-is-more collection.
While both Orion models will still be made with a hand-polished dial and applied indexes, the smaller model is now available with a steel case (instead of silver) and a gold-plated dial. The larger model, also cased in steel, will gleam with a silver-plated domed dial and gold-plated indexes and hands.
Both new Orion debuts are powered by the excellent Nomos Alpha manual-wind caliber, which boasts a 43-hour power reserve. And either watch can ordered with a custom engraving. Price: SEE WEBSITE
Alpina has updated a bygone mechanical caliber design to launch its Startimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture with a ‘bumper’ rotor that pings back and forth, rotating 330 degrees instead of the 360-degree modern standard for automatic movements.
A version of this type of to-and-fro oscillating ‘bumper’ weight was used in many early automatic Swiss watches starting from the late 1920s into the 1960s and could be found installed into watches from Omega, Universal Genève, Jaeger-LeCoultre–and Alpina.
The new Caliber AL-709 on this new Alpina watch, which is visible through the clear sapphire caseback, mimics the watchmaker’s own vintage ‘bumper’ movement from the 1950s.
According to Alpina, the two calibers share “the same geometry and the same inspiration.” However, while the vintage version rotates 120°, the new one rotates 330°. In addition, Alpina has replaced the springs used in the vintage designs with more efficient blades.
Alpina has placed its retro-bumper caliber into an existing 42mm steel cushion-shaped case from its Startimer Pilot Heritage collection.
The case nicely combines a circle in a square with rounded edges. A smartly satin-brushed and polished case middle further emphasizes the case’s dual geometry, which to my eye feels more inspired by watches from the 1970s than from those made in the 1950s.
Alpina has built its AL-709 caliber with an extended diameter that reaches to the edge of the round inner caseback, in part to underscore the watch’s Heritage message.
The dial also adds to the vintage look with its 1950s style cues, notably the three matching hands. Alpina also wisely places the watch’s crown at 4 o’clock, which enhances the case’s cushion profile. The 42mm case size and the sporty red accents add a contemporary edge.
Alpina is limiting the new Startimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture to 188 pieces, each with a brown calfskin strap with off-white topstitching. Price: $2,850.
Specifications: Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture
(Ref. AL-709SR4SH6, Limited edition of 188)
Movement: Automatic AL-709 Manufacture caliber, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 alt/h.
Case: 42mm by 13.25mm brushed and polished stainless steel, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, see-through case back, water-resistant to 100 meters.
Dial: Silver color with vertical brushed finishing, black minutes and seconds graduation, silver color indexes and hands with red luminous treatment.
Bracelet: Brown calf leather strap with off-white stitching.
Breitling’s Ref. 765 AVI pilot’s watch, introduced in 1953 and known as the “Co-Pilot,” is the inspiration for the just-introduced Super AVI watch collection, which reinterprets four vintage aircraft celebrating aviation history.
The honored legendary planes are the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang, the Vought F4U Corsair, the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and the de Havilland Mosquito.
And each new watch is unique in its own way.
The Breitling Super AVI P-51 Mustang—named for the eponymous bomber that was a relative latecomer to the Pacific Theater—comes in two variations: with a stainless steel case with a black dial and brown leather strap, and a red-gold version with an anthracite dial and a black leather strap. The latter is exclusive to Breitling boutiques or online at Breitling.com.
The Breitling Super AVI Tribute to Vought F4U Corsair has a blue dial, tone-on-tone counters and a black leather strap, and it is designed in honor of the naval aircraft, which was the first single-engine fighter to crack the 400 mph mark.
The Breitling Super AVI Curtiss Warhawk is set with a military-green dial, white contrasting chronograph counters, and red accents. Its coloration is a nod to its namesake’s famous shark-mouth nose art.
Finally, the Breitling Super AVI Mosquito has a black ceramic bezel—the only one among the new collection with this distinction—and a black dial with white counters. Its red and orange details allude to the markings on the plane, nicknamed the “Wooden Wonder.”
These new Breitling pilot’s watches, introduced just a few weeks ago in Dallas, feature 46mm cases with bi-directional ratcheted bezels and oversized crowns. The red-tipped GMT hands, in collusion with the 24-hour markings on the inner bezels, track a second time zone. The large Arabic numerals on the dials and bezels and Super Luminova-accented numerals, indexes, and hands provide optimal legibility.
Inside, the self-winding COSC-certified Caliber B04 drives the hours, minutes, seconds, date, and second time zone. This column-wheel chronograph movement with vertical clutch offers an impressive seventy hours of power reserve.
The leather watchstraps are lined in Breitling yellow and the case backs of the watches are decorated with renderings of the respective planes.
Scottsdale-based Oliver Smith Jeweler is partnering with Parmigiani Fleurier to create twenty bespoke watches to help celebrate the jeweler’s fortieth anniversary.
The 42mm watches, fifteen steel-cased Tonda GT models and five of its more complicated sibling, the Tondagraph GT, each feature a customized brown guilloché dial with cream-colored subdials and chapter ring.
“I really wanted to partner with Michel Parmigiani because of his creative genius. His skill as a restorer of antique timepieces was clear at a young age, and he’s come about his success as a watchmaker extremely organically,” says Oliver Smith, Founder and Creative Director at Oliver Smith Jeweler.
“I appreciate how Michel takes inspiration from patterns in nature, like the Golden Ratio and the Fibonacci sequence, in developing the proportions of his pieces. He takes that natural world into the balance of his watches,” Smith adds.
Each dial is guided by Michel Parmigiani’s Golden Ratio principles. The dials each sport open-worked Delta-shaped hands framed by fluted bezels and unmistakable teardrop-shaped lugs. Fifteen Tonda GT pieces have been produced. Only five Tondagraph GT models have been made, each numbered individually 1-5.
Inside Parmigiani Fleurier fits its own excellent calibers. The Tonda GT is powered by the PF044 automatic movement, which is finely finished, has a power reserve of 42 hours and is water resistant to 100 meters. The Tondagraph GT features the PF043 movement and combines an annual calendar and a chronograph.
Both models are fastened by a matching steel bracelet with folding clasp buckle, a new design from Parmigiani Fleurier first seen in last year’s Tonda GT novelties. For extra versatility, Oliver Smith and Parmigiani Fleurier include an additional interchangeable black rubber strap with deployant buckle.
Prices: $17,700 (Tonda GT pieces) and $23,200 (Tondagraph GT models, each numbered individually 1-5).
MB&F has joined forces with Bulgari to create the new Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra, a dramatic colored-gem-set iteration of the LM FlyingT, MB&F’s first venture into feminine-focused design.
You may recall that the LM FlyingT was quite a success upon its launch in 2019. Customers clamored for it, and the industry awarded it the prize for Best Ladies’ Complication at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The 39.5mm by 20mm watch displays hours and minutes on a 50° vertically tilted dial with two serpentine hands regulated by a dramatically raised flying tourbillon at the center.
Just last year MB&F added a limited edition guilloché-dialed LM FlyingT series cased in red gold and platinum. More recently, the watchmaker launched an eye-catching Lapis Lazuli LM FlyingT model. MB&F noted at the time that it expected to announce at least one new gemstone-set edition annually.
For the newest edition, the MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra, Bulgari’s well-established gemstone expertise merges with the LM FlyingT’s existing diamond-set dial plate to create a terrific counterbalance the technical center of the dial.
Prominent single stones of tourmaline, tsavorite, diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and topaz flank the watch’s diamond-set flying tourbillon and the balance at the center.
Bulgari opts for a cabochon cut for each stone, a choice that not only makes the stones all the more prominent above the dial, but that also perfectly matches the FlyingT Allegra’s round case.
On the back of the watch MB&F again creates a sun-shaped oscillating weight with gold rays rotating on a ruthenium disc above a platinum counterweight.
MB&F will offer twenty MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra watches, cased in either pink gold or white gold. Each is set with fully diamond-set dial plates and adorned with Bulgari’s fine gemstones. Price: $185,000.
Specifications: MB&F x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra
Movement: FlyingT featuring three-dimensional vertical architecture, automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house, central flying 60-second tourbillon, balance frequency of 18,000 (2.5 Hz), power reserve of 100 hours, three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18k 5N+ red gold, titanium and platinum.
Dial: Hours and minutes displayed on a 50° vertically tilted dial with two serpentine hands. White gold version set with diamonds, tsavorite, topaz, amethyst, tanzanite and tourmaline. Pink gold version set with diamonds, tsavorite, tourmaline, tanzanite, amethyst and rubellite.
Case: 39mm x 20mm white gold or pink gold, set with diamonds. High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal on back. Two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right. Water resistance to 30 meters.
Strap: Alligator leather strap with white or pink gold pin buckle matching the case.
Horology in Art, the second exhibition of the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), opens at HSNY’s library at 20 West 44 Street in Manhattan starting Tuesday, November 23.
On loan from HSNY Exhibit Curator Bob Frishman, the sixty artworks depict how clocks and watches have been displayed and referenced in artwork around the world.
Among the original artworks are a circa-1830 folk-art portrait of a mother and child holding a pocket watch; the preparatory watercolor by Anatol Kovarsky for a 1961 New Yorker cover showing a watchmaker in his shop; and a portrait miniature on ivory, circa 1840, in which a young woman’s watch and chain are visible.
Salvador Dali, Jan Steen, Andrew Wyeth, Winslow Homer, and Giovanni Piranesi are Among the artists represented in the exhibit. Vintage photographs include two rare mid-19th century daguerreotypes, cabinet cards, cartes de visites, glass lantern slides, and several examples of Mathew Brady Civil-War-era portraits.
“Curating these artworks for my personal collection, and now for the public to view, has been a two-decades-long passion project for me,” says Frishman, who has been a clock restorer and writer-lecturer on horology for more than 30 years. See Frishman’s first Horology in Art exhibit here.
“Thanks to today’s technology, I am happy to share my archives of over 2,000 examples of timepieces displayed in artworks through a continuous slideshow exhibition. The different depictions of watches and clocks in art help us earn about how time was perceived in the past while helping to advance the art of horology today.”
Visits are free of charge and timed tickets are required to visit the Horology in Art exhibition, currently on display starting November 23 until April 2022. To visit, please schedule an appointment here. HSNY is located at 20 West 44th Street.
Zenith transforms two of its most complex watches into cosmic messengers with a new galactic theme, eye-catching blue PVD components and clear sapphire cases. The Le Locle watchmaker has re-finished and re-configured components within the existing Defy Zero G and the Defy 21 Double Tourbillon, to create a stunning contemporary limited edition version of each watch.
Defy Zero G Sapphire
For this update, Zenith brings space travel to the wrist with a miniature mosaic depicting Mars on the dial. Made by hand using meteorite, aventurine glass and miniature painting, the red planet is seen on the small seconds, partially eclipsed by the hour and minute dial.
Zenith finishes the mainplate and the bridges in a blue tone with contrasting metallic-grey chamfers, dotted with white stars. The wearer can also see this space-inspired finish on the movement’s cylindrical container, visible through the sides of the case. Zenith has also rebuilt the movement with a more contemporary architectural profile that occupies thirty percent less space than the original movement.
You might recall that the Defy Zero G features Zenith’s El Primero 8812 S manual movement with a gimbal that maintains the balance and spring in a flat position, overcoming gravity’s effects on the watch’s chronometric precision (See complete specifications list below).
Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire
Zenith engraves stars on the dial of the new Defy 21 Double Tourbillon Sapphire and exposes a newly blued mainplate (a first for Zenith) through its skeleton dial. This watch still turns heads with two independent tourbillons. One rotates in sixty seconds at 36,000 vph (for time-keeping) while the second rotates once in five seconds at 360,000 vph to regulate the chronograph timer.
The twenty owners of these two new watches can enhance their galactic experience by taking advantage of a special offer from Zenith. The watchmaker has teamed with Novespace, a subsidiary of the French National Space Center, to offer each owner a parabolic zero-gravity flight, slated for next February at the Novespace facility in Bordeaux.
Prices: $159,700 (Defy Zero G Sapphire) and $180,300 (Defy 21 Tourbillon Sapphire ) Each model will be issued as a limited edition of ten.
Specifications: Zenith Defy Zero G Sapphire
(Reference: 04.9000.8812/00.R920, limited edition of ten pieces)
Movement: Entirely skeletonized El Primero 8812 S. “Gravity Control” gyroscopic module that ensures horizontal positioning of the regulating organ. Now occupies only 30% of its initial volume. Frequency is 36,000 VpH (5 Hz) with a 50-hour power reserve. Platinum counterweight of the gyroscopic system.
Functions : Hours and minutes in the center. Double Tourbillon: 1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 vph / 5 Hz – cage makes a turn in 60 second) 1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 vph / 50 Hz – cage makes a turn in 5 seconds). 1/100th of a second Chronograph: Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60-second counter at 6 o’clock, chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock. New bicolor signature on plates and bridges + milled Starry Sky.
Case: 46mm clear sapphire with 30 meters of water resistance.
Dial: Openworked with meteorite & aventurine hour & minute dial, hour markers are rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova, hands are rhodium-plated and faceted gold, coated with SuperLuminova.
Bracelet: Black rubber with blue patterned rubber, grey stitching. Titanium double folding clasp.
(Reference: 04.9000.9020/00.R920, limited edition of ten pieces)
Movement: El Primero 9020 automatic, 1/100th-of-a-second double tourbillon chronograph, 1 tourbillon escapement for the watch (36,000 vph – 5 Hz) ; 1 tourbillon escapement for the chronograph (360,000 vph – 50 Hz). One rotation per second for the chrono hand. Certified Chronometer. Power reserve of 50 hours.
Case: 46mm clear sapphire with sapphire crystal. Water resistance to 30 meters.
Dial: Openworked with rhodium-plated hour markers and hands, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1.
Bracelet: Black rubber with blue patterned rubber & grey stitching. Titanium double folding clasp.
Greubel Forsey has updated its Balancier S with a new case, new finishing and a newly brushed titanium bezel. While retaining the movement of the original Balancier S, the new watch, the Balancier S², is designed by Greubel Forsey with far fewer traditional dial and bezel motifs as the watchmaker positions the new design to become an ‘everyday wear’ model.
The new dial is darker, providing greater contrast with an intense black or grey backdrop that cuts through the balance bridge between 5 and 9 o’clock. And with sharper edges and a new matte finish on the bridge and indexes, each element is easier to read. Those primary indexes are notably larger than those found on the initial Balancier S.
In another bid for contemporary style, Greubel Forsey has smartly skeletonized the Balancier’s central double-arched titanium bridge. This syncs nicely with the new titanium bracelet and extends the effect of the all-new brushed bezel.
Along with its slightly larger case (at 46.5mm, a bit more than the 45mm original), and aforementioned openworked bridge and font-free bezel, a third prominent finishing change characterizes the more contemporary look of the Balancier S². You’ll not find the large Greubel Forsey signature on the barrel cover. Instead, you’ll see a very modern circular pattern. Greubel Forsey places its signature under the internal bezel between 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock.
The movement operates with two coaxial barrels mounted in series offering a 72-hour power reserve (shown at 2 o’clock via a new fan-shaped aperture). The small seconds hand at 8 o’clock is, like the balance wheel, placed at a 30-degree angle.
Greubel Forsey will make eighty-eighty pieces of this new Balancier S² with a charcoal grey backdrop, producing twenty-two pieces per year from 2022 to 2025. For the version with a light grey background, the manufacture will produce sixteen pieces per year over four years, totaling sixty-four pieces. Both versions will come in a titanium case.
Price: CHF 205,000 (rubber strap) and CHF 245,000 (titanium bracelet).
Specifications: Greubel Forsey Balancier S2
Movement: Balancier S² manual-wind with 72-hour power reserve, escapement inclined 30 degrees, two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels.
Case: 46.5mm by 13.75mm titanium with curved synthetic sapphire crystal, three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped bezel, profiled lugs, screwed fixing, transparent back with high domed sapphire crystal, titanium security screws and raised engraving “Balancier Incliné” and “Greubel Forsey.” Water resistant to 100 meters.
Dial: Three-dimensional, variable geometry minute-circle, polished, with engraved and lacquered minutes indexes, power-reserve indicator engraved and lacquered, multi-level, openworked suspended-arch bridge, black treatment, straight-grained and polished, polished beveling and countersinks.
Strap Non-animal material, rubber with texture in relief, titanium folding clasp, engraved GF logo, or three-row metal bracelet in titanium, folding clasp with integrated fine adjustment, engraved GF logo.
Price: CHF 205,000 (rubber strap) and CHF 245,000 (titanium bracelet).
Grand Seiko adds two new Spring Drive 200 meter diver’s watches to its already impressive Sport Collection. Both new models boast enhanced dial luminosity as Grand Seiko has coated the hands, markers, and bezels with newly generous amounts of LumiBrite.
In addition, the watchmaker has designed the bezels on both models to feature markers at every minute position, including the one at three o’clock to the right of the calendar frame, a slight change from existing diver models.
Both watches also measure 44.2mm in diameter, 14mm in thickness, and 50mm in length, and, as noted, boast water resistance to a depth of 200 meters. One model, Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA461, is cased in steel while the other, and Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA463, is cased in High-Intensity Titanium.
The latter watch provides heightened scratch and corrosion resistance, according to Grand Seiko, as well as a substantial weight reduction (about 30%) when compared to its stainless steel brother. Regardless of metal material, grand Seiko finishes each with contrasting hairline and Zaratsu-polished surfaces.
Both these dive watches are in full compliance with ISO dive watch standards, and even enhance these basic requirements with a magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m.
Inside each model Grand Seiko fits its superb Spring Drive 9R65 caliber, which combines a mainspring with quartz precision.
Look for the Grand Seiko SBGA461 and SBGA463 to be delivered after December 15th. Prices: $6,100 (SBGA461) and $7,300 (SBGA463).
This F. P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium is just one of the three rare watches made by pioneering independent watchmaker F.P. Journe set to be auctioned this weekend, November 20-21, by Ineichen Auctioneers in Zurich.
The platinum watch, with an estimate between CHF 200,000 and CHF 250,000, was purchased in 2002 and features a solid gold dial with dark grey ruthenium coating and Journe’s famed hand-wound Résonance caliber 1499.3.
The auction, titled 17 Shades of Grey, will feature timepieces produced in tantalum, platinum and steel. Other watchmakers with watches in the auction include Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Breguet, F.P. Journe, Vianney Halter, Konstantin Chaykin, and Urwerk.
After its primary auction of vintage watches and pocket watches, Ineichen will also host a second specialized auction called Alchemy of Gold that features wristwatches in yellow metals.
One highlight in this specialized auction is a set of twin Vianney Halter pieces. These are the Antiqua Yellow Gold and the Antiqua White Gold (each estimated at $53,800 to $107,600) which drew much collector attention when Halter revealed them in 1998.
These interpretations of the perpetual calendar allow the wearer to read the hour and minutes, month/ leap year, day of the week and the date via four riveted portholes in order of decreasing diameter.
Other highlights of Alchemy of Gold include watches from Audemars Piguet, A. Lange & Söhne, Patek Philippe, Girard-Perregaux, Tissot, Daniel Roth, and Vacheron Constantin.
Here is a look at a few highlights from the Ineichen Auctioneers auction this weekend.
The F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Ruthenium Collection (estimate $107,600 to $215,150) is numbered and limited to 99 pieces. This one features the caliber 1498, the movement that helped the brand make its mark in watchmaking in 1999. No more than 520 Tourbillon Souverain watches were ever produced, and that includes those in the Ruthenium Collection.
This F. P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain de Boulle (estimate $53,800 to $107,600) is among the rarest versions of this model. At that time, only eight watches were supplied to the authorized Dallas retailer, de Boulle Diamond & Jewelry, in the US in 2007, with two more delivered for owner Denis de Boulle and a director. This piece belonged to the owner.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25820TP (estimate $107,600 to $215,150) in platinum and tantalum is the rarest version of this model, which forms part of a limited edition of fifteen pieces. A characteristic feature is its design with a matte non-Tapisserie dial.
Also from Audemars Piguet is the Ref. 25720 from a collection that featured dials mostly decorated with a guilloché plate. Hand- engraved dials were less common, especially like this one in platinum, ranking this Audemars Piguet Star Wheel Automatic Ref. 25720PT (estimate $10,800 to $21,550) among the most rare of this kind. It was released in a limited edition of only nine pieces, which is indicated at the bottom of the dial (9/9).