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Leading with a newly designed Travel Time watch that now includes an annual calendar, Patek Philippe at Watches and Wonders 2022 debuted twelve new watches, including three models designed with a feminine focus.

The new Patek Philippe new Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time.

But first, another debut

Perhaps to give the new Annual Calendar Travel Time its own spotlight, Patek Philippe waited until just after the Geneva show to launch a splashier technical innovation: the new 41mm platinum-cased Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001, a 1/10-of-a-second monopusher chronograph.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001, a 1/10-of-a-second monopusher chronograph.

To engineer its first high-frequency chronograph Patek Philippe started with its existing CH 29- 535 PS caliber from 2009. Watchmakers amped the frequency from 4 Hz to 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour, or ten steps per second) and then equipped the movement with an additional 1/10th of a second chronograph mechanism.

As Patek Philippe explains, the designers provided the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with two independent and synchronized chronograph mechanisms, each of them driving a different central hand. The hand that performs a complete revolution per minute shows the stopped seconds in the traditional manner. The other hand (in red lacquered Silinvar) performs one revolution per twelve seconds.

We’ll have more details about the new Cal. 5470P in a future post. For details and a video, see the Patek Philippe website.

 

Travel time

The totally new Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time arrives in a new 41mm white gold Calatrava case with a terrific hobnailed case-side treatment meant to recall the hobnail bezels that have long characterized Patek Philippe’s traditional Calatrava collection.

The watch will also draw stares to its light-refracting textured charcoal gray dial that darkens to black toward its minute track. Vintage-styled applied numerals and white gold hour and minute hands are coated with an equally retro beige luminescence.

(This same dial, case, hand and marker layout is also found on another 2022 debut, the less complex Cal. 5226G, a three-hand 40mm white gold Calatrava with date–see below.)

The new Cal. 5226G, a three-hand 40mm white gold Calatrava with date, sports the same dial treatment as the new Annual Calendar Travel Time.

Patek Philippe’s watchmakers designed a new self-winding caliber (new 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H) for the new Annual Calendar Travel Time in which the Travel Time mechanism controls the Annual Calendar.

A view of Caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H from the case back of the new Annual Calendar Travel Time.

The unusual setup, in which the watch’s date display is synchronized with local time, allows forwards and backwards date correction.

And to better retain the dressy Calatrava style, Patek Philippe resisted the need to install two pushers to control the two hour hands (a solid hand for local time and a skeletonized hand for home time). Instead, the wearer can correct the local time via the crown. Calendar indications can be adjusted via small case-side correctors located near their respective functions: day at 10, month at 2, date at 4 and moon phases at 8 o’clock. 

For this debut, Patek Philippe also updated its legendary Annual Calendar, which the brand essentially invented for the wristwatch in 1996.  And, Patek Philippe’s engineers shortened the Annual Calendar’s changeover time. Thanks to a new cam system, the changing dates and move to local time is five times faster (eighteen minutes) than the same actions in earlier annual calendars.

This change is among many that Patek Philippe has cited in eight patent applications for the new caliber. 

Patek Philippe delivers its Ref. 5326G-001 Annual Calendar Travel Time with two interchangeable straps, one beige calfskin with nubuck texture. The second black calfskin strap has embossed textile finish and beige decorative stitching. Price: $76,882. 

Additional highlights among the twelve 2022 Watches and Wonders debuts for Patek Philippe include:

Patek Philippe Ref. 5320G-011.

Cal. 5320G-011 Perpetual Calendar, an eye-catching new version of the contemporary vintage Patek Philippe perpetual calendar in 40mm white gold with a stunning rose-gilt opaline dial. With its three-tiered lugs, this debut recalls a Patek Philippe model from 1945. Price: $94,624.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5172G-010.

Cal. 5172G-010 Chronograph, a new version of the manually wound Manufacture chronograph in 40mm white gold, also features a rose-gilt opaline dial (above). You might recall this model from 2019 with a blue dial. $80,431. 

Patek Philippe also added a trio of olive green-dialed models and one green lacquered watch during Watches and Wonders 2022.

Patek Philippe Ref. 4910/1200A-011

The trio includes Ref. 4910/1200A-011 Twenty-4 manchette quartz watch in steel with a sunburst dial ($15,377 (above), Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time watch in rose gold ($57,957) and a Ref. 5205R annual Calendar with moon phases ($55,592).

Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time.
Ref. 5205R annual Calendar with moon phases.

For a new platinum Ref. 5270P-014 Chronograph with a perpetual calendar ($211,271), Patek Philippe applies a green lacquered dial with a black gradation (below).

The new platinum Ref. 5270P-014 Chronograph with a perpetual calendar.

 

We’ll have more reporting about the remaining Patek Philippe 2022 debuts in future posts. These debuts include several artisanal updates to the firm’s Worldtimer plus new gem set options for the platinum-cased Ref. 5374/300P Grand Complication with a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar and the Ref. 7121 Ladies’ Moon Phases watch. 

Chopard adds the first complication to its Alpine Eagle collection with the new Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon, the watchmaker’s highlight debut from Watches & Wonders 2022.

The 41mm steel watch, with a high-frequency (25,200 vph) flying tourbillon, also dips the sporty Alpine Eagle collection into the luxury category, as it is Chopard’s first complication watch bearing the Geneva Seal quality hallmark.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon, new at Watches & Wonders 2022.

Chopard builds the watch’s flying tourbillon without an upper bridge, which gives the regulating component its ‘flying’ moniker. That transparency in this L.U.C 96.24-L movement is based on the development of Chopard Manufacture’s first caliber (L.U.C 96.01-L from 1997). Like that caliber, the new movement also thin, measuring 3.3mm.

Thanks to this internal thinness, Chopard also built a thinner case than is typically found within the Alpine Eagle collection. The case on his new model measures 8mm thick, with a thinner bezel and lug set when compared to a classic Alpine Eagle Large model.

Chopard also equipped this new movement with a stop-seconds function that is backed up with a chronometer certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. (Note the “Chronometer” inscription on the dial below the logo.)

This double certification (COSC and Geneva Seal) places the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon alone on the market (according to Chopard) as the only flying tourbillon watch receive both certifications.

The impressive new Chopard caliber L.U.C 96.24-L earns Geneva Seal and COSC certifications.

The Chopard L.U.C caliber, like so many of Chopard’s excellent in-house movements, offers a much-welcomed long power reserve of sixty-five hours thanks to its two stacked barrels based on Chopard Twin technology.

While Chopard has embedded unique characteristics into the new watch, the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon still echoes all the Alpine Eagle collection’s overall profile, including a round case with stylized sides, a crown engraved with the compass rose, a bezel with eight functional screws set at a tangent, a stamped dial featuring a deep color (here textured blue on a gold base), luminescent indications, and a proprietary Lucent Steel A233 bracelet and case.

Price: Upon request.

Also new from Chopard at Watches & Wonders 2022

The Chopard Happy Sport Chrono, a 40mm COSC-certified automatic chronograph with an ethical 18-karat rose gold case, and gold dial hosting seven ‘dancing’ diamonds. Price: $28,600.

The Chopard Happy Sport 33 mm, an ethical rose gold (case and bracelet) three-hand watch with five ‘dancing’ diamonds spinning around its gilded satin-brushed dial. Price: $29,700.

 

Breitling has teamed with British motorcycle brand Triumph to launch the Top Time Triumph, a sporty 41mm steel-cased chronograph with an ice blue dial.

The new Breitling Top Time Triumph.

The new watch is characterized by a brushed blue dial finish in the bow-tie motif inspired by 1960s-era café racing culture. A solid steel caseback features an engraving of a sketch depicting a Triumph parallel twin engine.

To further reinforce the partnership, the Breitling and Triumph logos are prominently featured on the dial of the Top Time Triumph, framed by a retro-inspired high-contrast tachymeter scale.

Breitling Top Time Triumph

At the same time, Breitling will make 270 ‘owner’s’ versions of the Top Time Triumph watch that will be offered to buyers of a special motorcycle from Triumph called the Speed Twin Breitling Limited Edition.

These limited edition watches will feature engraved casebacks identical to the Top Time Triumph, but will add an engraving of the same unique serial number as the owner’s motorcycle. These owner’s limited edition models will also sport its ice blue dial with a sunray-pattern, which differs slightly from the brushed, bow-tie pattern dial of the Top Time Triumph.

The Breitling Top Time Triumph Speed Twin Owners’ Limited features a sunray pattern blue dial.

“Triumph’s heritage and modern-retro aesthetic are just two of the many things we have in common,” said Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. “Their blending of tradition with technology is completely in sync with what we do.”

The blue color on dials is as retro as the watch’s case and mushroom pusher style. The color is inspired by a blue Triumph Thunderbird 6T from 1951, and a rare, blue-dialed Breitling Top Time Ref. 815 from the 1970s, according to Breitling.

The Breitling Caliber 23, a COSC-certified ETA Valjoux 7753-based chronograph movement, powers both watches. Prices: $5,500 and $5,700 (Owner’s Limited Edition).

 

To commemorate the fiftieth anniversary of Porsche Design, which was founded by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche in 1972, Porsche Design is launching the Chronograph 1 – 1972 Limited Edition, a reinterpretation of its first product, the original Chronograph 1.

The new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1972 Limited Edition is a reinterpretation of its first product, the original Chronograph 1.

Long considered the first all-black watch, the Chronograph 1 design was directly based on the matte-black design of Porsche sports car dashboards. Porsche Design’s use of black PVD on steel (as well as employing the then-new Valjoux 7750 automatic movement) set an example emulated for decades afterwards by sports watchmakers across the globe. Early examples of the pioneering Porsche Design automatic chronograph are highly collectible.

Honoring the watch’s pioneering role in late 20th century watchmaking, Porsche Design launches its Chronograph 1 – 1972 Limited Edition with the original’s dial and 40.8mm case measurements while bringing it up to modern technical standards.

As on the original, Porsche Design places its historic logo on the dial, crown, clasp and case back. In addition, the tachymeter scale and date display retain the 1972 font and the watch’s baton hands bear the original rectangular shape. The movement, however is now the COSC- certified Porsche Design caliber WERK 01.140.

The COSC-certified Porsche Design caliber WERK 01.140.

Porsche Design will make the watch using the same high performance titanium for the 40.8mm case and strap as it uses in nearly all Porsche Design timepieces today. And new SuperLuminova will enhance the watch’s visibility in the dark.

Also new is where the Chronograph 1 – 1972 Limited Edition and its movement are manufactured. As of 2014, all Porsche Design Timepieces are produced in-house at Porsche Design Timepieces AG, the brand’s own timepiece-manufacturing facility in Solothurn, Switzerland.

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1972 Limited Edition is limited to only 500 pieces worldwide and is now available at Porsche Design stores and online at www.porsche-design.com.   Price: $7,700.

Porsche Design will also offer a second example of the watch, the Chronograph 1 – 911 Edition 50Y Porsche Design (with an open caseback), exclusively to owners of the new limited edition Porsche 911 sports car, with both car and watch limited to 750 pieces globally.

The Chronograph 1 – 911 Edition 50Y Porsche Design for Porsche 911 owners has an open caseback.

In addition to the anniversary timepieces and vehicles, Porsche Design is also offering a wide range of its products with special fiftieth anniversary touches. The products include sunglasses, fashion, sportswear, accessories, bags and luggage.

TAG Heuer adds three new TAG Heuer Autavia models to the now sixty-year-old collection, including two versions of a debut flyback chronograph and the first-ever three-hand Autavia GMT.

The new black-cased and black-dialed version of the TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary Flyback.

Specifically, TAG Heuer fits a new Caliber Heuer 02 COSC Flyback movement (with an impressive eighty hours of power reserve) into two new Autavia 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronographs while the new Caliber 7 COSC GMT movement drives a new Autavia 60th  Anniversary GMT Three Hands watch.

The new TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary Flyback. Chronograph, with silver ‘panda’ dial.

One of the two new flyback chronographs features a ‘panda’ style silver dial framed by a polished stainless-steel case. The second Autavia flyback chronograph debut features an all black dial and black DLC-coated case. As a reminder, the flyback function makes it possible to reset the chronograph hand and immediately restart a new timing event.

The new TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary GMT Three Hands, a COSC-certified chronometer.

For the premiere Autavia GMT watch, powered by a new Caliber 7 COSC GMT movement, TAG Heuer places a blue sunray-brushed dial and a blue and black ceramic bezel within a 42mm polished stainless-steel case.

The Autavia COSC GMT caseback shows an engraving.

TAG Heuer will deliver the 60th Anniversary Autavia Flyback Chronograph models on a black alligator leather strap fitted with a pin buckle. The GMT arrives on a stainless-steel bracelet with a steel folding clasp and double safety push buttons.

The watch’s black alligator strap with steel pin buckle is easily changeable by pressing the quick-release button.

Prices: $6,300 (silver dial flyback chronograph), $6,950 (black dial, black case flyback chronograph) and $4,200 (GMT).

 

Specifications:

TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronograph (CBE511B.FC8279, silver ‘panda’ dial)

MOVEMENT: Caliber Heuer 02 COSC Flyback with 80 hours of power reserve.

DIAL: Silver dial with ‘panda’ style subdial, indexes and hands with off-white Super-LumiNova, rhodium-plated hour and minute hands.

CASE: 42mm polished and fine-brushed stainless steel, back ceramic bidirectional rotating bezel, sapphire caseback. Water resistance to 100 meters.

BRACELET: Black alligator leather with stainless-steel pin buckle.

Price: $6,300.

TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronograph (CBE511C.FC8280, black dial, black case)

MOVEMENT: Caliber Heuer 02 COSC Flyback with 80 hours power reserve. .

DIAL: Black with indexes and hands with green SuperLumiNova.

CASE: 42 mm black DLC-coated, polished and fine-brushed, black ceramic bidirectional rotating bezel, sapphire caseback, water resistance to 100 meters.

BRACELET: Black alligator leather with DLC-coated pin buckle.

Price: $6,950.

TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary GMT 3 Hands (WBE511A.BA0650)

MOVEMENT: Caliber 7 COSC-certified GMT.

DIAL: Blue sunray-brushed, numerals and hands with white SuperLumiNova.

CASE: 42mm polished and fine-brushed stainless steel, blue ceramic and black 24-hour scale bidirectional rotating bezel. Water resistance to 100 meters.

BRACELET: Stainless steel with steel folding clasp and double safety push buttons.

Price: $4,200.