Tag

carbon

Browsing

During Geneva Watch Days Greubel Forsey introduced two of its Balancier Convex models in all-new carbon cases, each now measuring smaller in diameter than their existing titanium versions.

The new Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Carbon, with its 42.5 mm carbon case.

The new cases give these complex open-work watches a sleeker, sportier look when compared to their earlier counterparts. The Convexe collection is meant to be this high-end maker’s contemporary ‘daily wear’ collection, and these debuts certainly underscore that direction.

The new Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S² Carbon, now available in a 41.5mm carbon case.

Greubel Forsey explains that making its new carbon cases required a new technical approach that includes higher temperatures and greater pressure. Since the undulating Convexe case is anything but conventional, the company’s case-makers applied eight times the amount of pressure to create these cases when compared to the amount needed to create standard cases. 

Double Balancier Convex

Now measuring 42.5 mm in diameter, 1mm smaller in diameter than an existing titanium version of the watch, this newest Double Balancier Convex retains its trademark dual and inclined balance wheels linked by a spherical differential (between 6 and 7 o’clock.)

Look for two versions of the new watch. One features an iridescent green finish matched with blue accents and a red tip on the power reserve display.

The second version of the debut is darker, with contrasts provided primarily by the signature Greubel Forsey hand-finished movement that boasts top-level mirror polishing, sharp internal angles, straight and circular-grained surfaces, and curved hands with luminescent tips.

Greubel Forsey will make the Double Balancier Convexe carbon in twenty-two pieces of each variation (black and green with matching strap). Price: $392,000. 

Balancier Convex S2

Greubel Forsey has redesigned the Balancier Convexe S2 to account for its all-new carbon case. Now fit into a 41.5mm diameter size, smaller than existing 46.5mm models, the newest edition displays a noticeably tighter set of components, which accounts for its more compact look on the wrist.

The watch’s signature double open-work arched bridge remains as the watch’s beautifully polished centerpiece, again framing the wheel train below to appear as if it is suspended in air. The architectural layout, set within the undulating Convexe case shape, features three large hand-decorated bridges and a newly blackened twin barrel cover with relief engraving.

Greubel Forsey notes that even within the new carbon-cased model, the watch has retained its traditional case, lug and crown finishes.

The watchmaker will produce the new carbon-cased Balancier Convexe S2  in two limited editions of 22 pieces each, the small seconds with blue or black treatment, matching textured rubber strap, and a titanium and carbon buckle. Price: $290,000.

 

Creating a custom watch from colorful carbon composites. 

By Steve Huyton

Over the last few years, I have developed a great working relationship with watchmaker Ben Birkett’s workshop, which is located in the Adelaide CBD (Central Business District) in South Australia.   

Ben and I have collaborated on several projects. When I told him of a new concept called the ‘Inferno’ he was very excited to make it a reality.

One of the most exciting developments in modern watchmaking is the introduction of experimental materials. In my opinion forged carbon composites are at the forefront and have dominated the masculine market. Certainly, Hublot, Richard Mille and Roger Dubuis are the highest-profile brands using this material. However, there are also numerous small independents that have achieved very successful results.

The Inferno

In the last year, I created two watches, called the Kaleidoscopic and Volcanic, from multi-colored carbon. For the Inferno I wanted to fabricate the case from something even more unusual. The solution was a forged carbon composite interweaved with gold foil.

Due to the complicated manufacturing procedure, including molding and CNC (computer numerical control) machinery, it took several attempts to create the desired aesthetic. The final result was a subtle marbling type patterning that sparkles in the light.

This is the first time this unique and exciting material has ever been used in watchmaking. The crown cover, open-worked hands, dial and case back are also fabricated from this composite. Ultimately, this makes the timepiece exceptionally lightweight, especially considering the size. This watch has an extra-large diameter measuring 52mm (excluding the crown).

Originally, when I visualized the design of the Inferno it featured an unusual skeleton movement. Ultimately, I wanted a bright orange mechanism to create the aesthetic of fire. Fortunately, Frédéric Leuba offered to assist me in my plight. Frédéric is an industry veteran and has worked with many famous brands for a decade. Most people might be familiar with his micro brand called Muse Swiss Art Watches.

 

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

To emphasize its broad collection of adventure watches, Luminox launches the Bear Grylls Limited Edition Rule of 3 Sea Series watch (333 pieces for the world) that includes a special removable sleeve on the strap with the ‘Rule of 3’ emblazoned on it.

The new Luminox Bear Grylls Limited Edition Rule of 3 Sea.

For the uninitiated, the Rule of 3 states that an adventurer can not survive without air for 3 minutes, shelter for 3 hours, water for 3 days and food for 3 weeks. This accounts for the extra-large numeral 3 on the dial in its appropriate position.  

The new watch joins others in the Luminox Bear Grylls collection. However, unlike the existing models in this collection designed for the Luminox Land and Air series, this new model is the first in the collection designed with nautical (Sea) wear in mind.

Luminox cases the watch in a carbon composite called Carbonox and features a uni-directional bezel set with a blue, orange and white dive-timing sector. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters.

Of course, the watch is also set with luminous materials called Luminox Light Technology designed to be visible in low or no light conditions. Each timepiece is individually numbered, and a special certificate comes with each watch. Price: $545.

 

Specifications: Luminox Bear Grylls Limited Edition Rule of 3 Sea Series 

Case: 42mm by 14mm Carbonox with crown protection, uni-directional turning bezel, steel screw-in caseback, hardened mineral crystal. Weight: 76 grams. Water resistant to 200 meters.

Dial: Black with orange and white hands and luminous material; date.

Movement: Ronda quartz 515 HF 6 with 50-month battery life.

Strap: Black genuine rubber w/ stainless steel buckle.

Price: $545.