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American watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, whose eponymous Pennsylvania-based RGM Watches pioneered independent watchmaking in the United States, has teamed with renowned watch photographer and artist Atom Moore to create a terrific limited edition series of ‘Fat Arrow’ military style watches.

The Equation of Time Fat Arrow.

The series, the Equation of Time Fat Arrow, reprises a late 2021 prototype developed by Moore and Murphy’s Equation of Time division, which specializes in watches designed with input from collectors. Moore’s original dial art piece “Fat Arrow” is based on the name given to the World War II-era watches with the larger dial arrows, which were used to signify British military equipment.

Starting with Moore’s Fat Arrow dial design, Murphy devised a complementary steel-cased 36mm military style watch.

As a result, the new Equation of Time Fat Arrow features a matte black dial, large crown, sword style hands and a ‘railroad’ minute track set with luminous dots and markers. Luminous material is also found on all the larger arrows on the dial.

As with many of RGM and Equation of Time offerings, customers can customize certain aspects of the Fat Arrow, including the finishing style on the case, crown and hands.

Visible through the caseback is a manual-wind Sellita SW210-1 finished with Geneva stripes and radially brushed gears. Price: $2,995 (limited edition of 99).

Detroit Watch Company looks to the skies as it expands its primarily ground-based collection of affordably priced automatic models, most of which are inspired by its local industry and – unusually – its area code. Look for a new set of pilot-styled watches called Aviator in the collection, which are debuting with two options: a power reserve model and a chronograph.

The Detroit Watch Company Aviator Chronograph.

You might be familiar with the company’s very cool City Collection 313, which mimics an analog telephone dial, or its impressive M1-Woodward series, named for a legendary Detroit avenue. Each delivers distinctive style borne of its hometown as filtered through the eyes of Detroit Watch Company founders Patrick and Amy Ayoub, who started the company together nine years ago.

The Detroit Watch Company Aviator Chronograph, black DLC version.

The pair’s latest designs, each limited to 100 pieces, echo popular pilot watch designs, but with a Detroit twist. Both are built with 42mm steel cases, with a black DLC option also available in an additional twenty-five editions both models. And each features a dial and crown imprinted with a Detroit Fleur-de-Lys.

The Detroit Watch Company Aviator Power Reserve, black DLC edition.

On the Aviator Power Reserve you’ll find a prominently placed power reserve indicator at the 6 o’clock position, alongside a large sub-seconds indicator.

The Detroit Watch Company Aviator Power Reserve.

The Aviator Chronograph offers pure pilot styling with a day-date display, a red-tipped chronograph seconds that also boasts a stylized Detroit ‘D’.

These are super-solid steel-cased watches with distinctive styling, Swiss automatic movements – all sold at an impressively affordable prices. Prices: $1,495-$1,595 (Aviator Power Reserve) and $2,200 – $2,350 (Aviator Chronograph)

 

Specifications: Detroit Watch Company Aviator Power Reserve

(Limited to 100 numbered pieces. 001/100. 25 pieces in DLC)

Movement: Automatic Swiss Sellita SW279-1, deluxe finishing, Glucydur balance, Incabloc shock absorber, date, 28,800 vph, 38-hour power reserve. Decorated movement with blued screws, perlage, Cotes de Genève.

Dial: Black or green, date display in window, power reserve subdial counter.

Case: 42mm x 9.7mm polished/brushed stainless steel, screw down crown. Exhibition caseback. Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Also available in DLC (with black dial). Water resistant to fifty meters.

Strap: Calf leather with buckle and quick release spring bars. Ballistic (Kevlar) strap with deployant clasp on DLC edition.

Price: $1495-$1595 (DLC Edition)

Specifications: Detroit Watch Company Aviator Chronograph

(Limited to 100 numbered pieces. 001/100. 25 pieces in DLC)

Movement: Custom Swiss Valjoux Eta 7750 automatic & manual winding, chronograph. Shock-absorber-Incabloc, anachron hairspring, Glucydur balance, 28,800 vph, 48-hour power reserve, custom DWC decoration.

Dial: Blue or black, day-date display in window, minutes subdial counter, hour subdial counter, small second subdial.

Case: 42mm by14.2mm polished/brushed stainless steel, exhibition caseback sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, water resistant to 50 meters.

Strap: Calf leather with buckle and quick release spring bars. Ballistic (Kevlar) strap with deployant clasp on DLC edition.

Price: $2,200-$2,350 (DLC edition).

 

The new Shinola Monster GMT, this Detroit-based watchmaker’s first automatic GMT model, makes tracking time in multiple time zones simple and pleasing thanks to a particularly handsome blue dial and blue bezel.

The new Shinola Monster GMT is the Detroit-based watchmaker’s first automatic GMT model.

Starting with its ‘diver down’ flag at 12 o’clock, and over to the large calendar aperture at 3 o’clock, this nicely proportioned navy blue dial is a pleasure to eye. Shinola then enhances that visual pleasure by offering the option to swap the steel quick-release bracelet with a patterned blue strap made from recycled ocean bound plastic.

The watch is especially attractive to those with smaller wrists or collectors who prefer sporty watches with moderate case diameters. This new model at 40mm is smaller than other models in Shinola’s impressive Monster series, which measure 43mm and 45mm. 

You’ll find the requisite 24-hour markers needed to track time in another timezone plainly positioned along a navy-blue ceramic bezel insert.

The independently set blue and orange-tipped GMT hand, which rotates once a day, allows you to check that second timezone quickly.

Inside Shinola fits a Sellita automatic movement with a solid 56-hour power reserve. The movement, protected with 100 meters of water resistance, is visible through the watch’s fully open caseback.

Price: $1,995.