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Briston Squares the Circle with Clubmaster 

 

By Gary Girdvainis 

It will come as no surprise to any fashionista that the retro-chic design of the Briston Clubmaster is a child of a Franco-Italian collaboration – in this case with a bit of Brit influence mixed in for good measure.

The Briston Clubmaster Sport

Crafted in cellulose acetate supplied by the sixth-generation-owned Italian manufacturer Mazzucchelli 1849, the watch has Briston making a case for a watch case in the form of a “squircle”. What’s a squircle you say? It’s actually a portmanteau of “square” and “circle” and really best describes the softened corners and flowing lines of this Briston case out of round.

Emulating the style of both luxury eyewear and fine writing instruments originally crafted in tortoise shell (a misnomer as most often sea turtle shell was used), the main body of the Briston Clubmaster case is sensually smooth and soft to the touch, hypo-allergenic, and even recyclable.

Variegated patterns evoke the tortoise-shell effect of its biological predecessor, and like natural shell, the man-made acetate versions will vary with no two cases being exactly alike. Unlike the original shell, the cellulose acetate can be brought to life in an amazing array of colors beyond the amber and cognacs of the original – including solid tone colors crafted in the same material.

In our Ice Blue Briston Clubmaster sample, the steel lugs spaced 20mm apart seamlessly emerge from the semi translucent case, while a threaded steel back and domed sapphire crystal protect the inner workings and lume-enhanced dial and hands.

Various colors are available in a 40mm x 40mm three-hand model as well as a 42mm x 42mm chronograph with day/night indicator at 3 o’clock. All are water resistant to 10atm and powered by Miyota quartz movements.

For smaller wrists there are also options in 36mm and 24mm in a variety of cool case colors and matching dials. 

Lightweight and stylish, Briston watches are an easy purchase with prices ranging from $195 to $440 at www.briston-watches.com 

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Video: Zenith and Aaron Rodgers Team for New Chronomaster Sport 

 

By Gary Girdvainis 

Since it first launched, Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport has seen a variety of cases, dials, sizes and colors. Today, Zenith is releasing a collaboration on a new Chronomaster Sport with brand ambassador Aaron Rodgers, four-time NFL MVP and future football Hall of Fame quarterback.

The new Zenith Chronometer Sport developed with Aaron Rodgers.

Taking on the New York Jets team color, “Gotham” Green (pantone – PMS 7484 C), Zenith’s newest member of the Chronomaster Sport series keeps all the quality points and construction of its 41mm predecessors – this time in the affiliated garb of the brand’s favorite pigskin protagonist.

The El Primero Striking Tenth, which Zenith debuted in 2011, elevated the chronograph function to a logical zenith in human-actuated interval timekeeping. Zenith did this by taking the already high-speed El Primero movement beating at ten beats per second and adding a center chronograph seconds hand that moves along in 1/10th seconds intervals when actuated.

This finite timing, which breaks the second into tenths, is really at the very peak of human reaction time and represents both technical prowess and logical functionality. Of course there are mechanical watches that divide the second into hundredths, or even thousands, but when the best human reaction times to stimuli are at about .15 seconds, dividing the second into such small increments is more an example of technical achievement than actual useful functionality.

In addition to sporting the Gotham Green dial and bezel, this limited edition also has Aaron Rodgers’ logo engraved on the sapphire crystal back. Price: $12,800. 

See www.zenith-watches.com for more details. 

Here’s my take on the new watch:

 

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TAG Heuer Launches Gold Carrera Chronograph

TAG Heuer concludes its year-long celebration of Carrera with a classy ode to a much-coveted gold-cased Carrera Ref. 1158 CHN from 1972.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph with gold case and dial.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph retains the original’s 39mm 18-karat gold case and integrated lugs, adding a modern chronograph movement and pushers, all set under TAG Heuer’s new domed and ultra-curved Glassbox crystal.

Heuer Carrera Ref 1158 (left) from 1972 and the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph.

You may recall that TAG Heuer added the Glassbox crystal design to many models in the 2023 Carrera collection earlier this year.

The new design’s curves, more acute than earlier examples from the 1970s, are amplified with an equally curved flange that enhance’s the dial’s visibility while also simplifying the ability to read the 60-second/minute scale.

TAG Heuer also maintains the original’s luxe appeal with a yellow gold-plated dial and all-new contrasting black sub-dials at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions, recalling the original’s reverse panda configuration.

 

Inside TAG Heuer fits its excellent in-house chronograph movement TH20-00,  boasting bi-directional winding and an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

TAG Heuer attaches the watch to a black perforated calfskin leather strap and yellow gold pin buckle. 

Price; $21,500. 

Specifications: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph (gold case)

(Ref. CBS2240.FC8319)

Movement: Chronograph caliber TH20-00, automatic with date and 80-hour power reserve.  

Dial: 18-karat 3N yellow gold-plated vertical brushed dial and flange, with 60 second / minute scale, 3 counters. 18-karat 3N yellow gold-plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with white SuperLumiNova. Black lacquered central hand, Black TAG HEUER printed logo, 6 o’clock date.


Case: 39mm by 13.9mm 18-karat 3N solid yellow gold fine-brushed, polished case with Glassbox domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, solid yellow gold standard crown at 3 o’clock, fine brushed, polished solid yellow gold round push button at 2 o’clock. Fine brushed, polished solid yellow gold round push button at 4 o’clock and yellow gold screw-down sapphire caseback. Water resistance: 100 meters. 


Bracelet: Perforated black calfskin leather strap, fine brushed, polished yellow gold pin buckle, TAG Heuer shield.

Price: $21,500. 

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Hublot Celebrates Watches of Switzerland Partnership  

To celebrate their partnership,  Hublot and watch retailer Watches of Switzerland unveil the Big Bang All Black Green, a newly green version of an existing black ceramic design. The limited edition (of fifty) will be sold only in boutiques and online in the United Kingdom and United States.

The new Hublot Big Bang All Black Green.

The watch extends Hublot’s family of colorful ceramic Big Bang models, with a green ceramic bezel, familiar skeletonized dial and a 42mm by 14.5mm micro-blasted black ceramic case.

Inside Hublot fits it superb in-house Unico HUB1280 automatic flyback chronograph movement with its double coupling system and column-wheel both visible through the clear dial.

The movement also boasts 72-hours of power reserve and is protected with a 100-meter water resistance rating.

With its easy-to-use bracelet swapping system, Hublot includes matching straps with each Big Bang All Black Green. One is made of rubber black and grey green camouflage and the second is a black fabric Velcro strap.

Each is set with a matching buckle. The rubber strap includes a black ceramic and black titanium deployant buckle while the fabric strap includes a micro-blasted black ceramic sport buckle. 

Price: $24,800. 

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Porsche Design Revives Military Chronograph 

Porsche Design revives a late-1970s military flyback chronograph with the new Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition, the watchmaker’s first titanium carbide chronograph not connected to a specific Porsche sports car.

The new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition.

By making the new watch using a titanium carbide case instead of a steel case like the original model, Porsche Design makes the chronograph’s case more scratch-resistant, much lighter and hypoallergenic.

But by remaking the matte black dial and using same easy-to-read font of the original, the watchmaker has created a technically updated ode to that 1979 design. 

While the dial of the historical model (which was made for the flying squadron of the U.S. Air Force) featured a tiger’s head, the new watch offers a screaming marmot image between 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock.

The “Mankei” (marmot) name on the dial also refers to the Mankeiwirt, Ferdi Porsche’s newly opened destination for car enthusiasts located near Studio F. A. Porsche in Zell am See, Austria. 

In addition to the font and technical features, the Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition also pays homage to its historical model in several other ways. 

A new “TiC” logo is placed in the characteristic position between 1 and 2 o’clock on the dial referencing the use of titanium carbide, and is a modern reinterpretation of the 3H symbol (for tritium) of the military model. Tritium is here replaced by bright blue SuperLuminova.

The watch also features the historic Porsche Design logo on the dial and winding crown. Two dots on the dial at 12 o’clock provide a clear orientation of the displays in the dark.

The new watch (right) with the original model from 1979.

There are few differences of course, most critically the new movement and the larger case size. Originally 38mm, the new watch measures 42.7mm in diameter.

The watch is powered by a COSC-certified Porsche Design WERK 01.240 chronograph caliber that retains the flyback function of the original watch.

The back of the the new Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition, showing the aviation style leather strap.

Also new: a thicker seconds hand and a larger minute hand.

Porsche Design attaches the new watch to a slate grey ‘Bund’ strap made of Porsche vehicle leather with a quick-release mechanism. As an additional option, the chronograph also comes with a white textile strap with a badge on which the coordinates of the F.A.T. Ice Race are printed.

The watch also comes with a white textile strap with a badge on which the coordinates of the F.A.T. Ice Race are printed.

Collectors can pre-order the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility – Limited Edition now for $13,000. The watch will be available in stores starting January 15, 2024.

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