Category

Brands

Category

A 2019 Rolex GMT-Master and a very sharp-looking Chopard L.U.C men’s watch highlight the January Jewels and Timepieces live auction by Farber Auctioneers & Appraisers, set for January 11.

Also drawing collector attention in the 452-lot auction is a men’s tourbillon model by Franck Muller and an unusual Speake Marin Velsheda Piccadilly men’s watch.

U.S.-based auction house Farber Auctioneers & Appraisers is a favorite for many collectors in search of a wider range of watches than typically found at the larger auction houses. Farber maintains an active presence in its own New Jersey community and has a well-established global network.

Founded forty years ago, Farber Auctioneers & Appraisers specializes in fine jewelry, timepieces, sterling silver flatware and hollowware as well as United States coins and Collectibles.

Below is a look at a few of the highlights for the January 11 Jewels & Timepieces live auction. Bidding begins at 10 am EST. Click here for a list of all the auction’s watch and jewelry lots and for details on how to bid.

 

Rolex GMT-Master Stainless Steel from 2019.

Rolex

This vintage Rolex GMT-Master Stainless Steel Watch (Reference number 1675) features an automatic movement. Its case measures 39mm (excluding crown) and it has a gold gilt dial, acrylic crystal and a non-original stainless steel Oyster bracelet. Watch is in working order. Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, GMT function. Watch comes with official Rolex Service Paperwork from 2019 and Rolex pouch with service box.

Starting bid: $15,000

Estimate: $30,000 – $40,000

Franck Muller Ronde Tourbillon Men’s Watch.

Franck Muller

The 42mm Ronde Tourbillon Men’s Watch features a manual wind 21-jewel movement. Its case measures 42mm x 49mm lug tip to lug tip. Original leather band and tang buckle.

Back view, Franck Muller Ronde Tourbillon Men’s Watch.

Watch is in working order. Function: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Tourbillon. Marked- Tourbillion, 7002 T, Number 75, Franck Muller marked on movement. Watch is in excellent pre owned condition. Does not come with box or papers.

Starting bid: $30,000

Estimate: $45,000 – $60,000

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Celeste 18-karat Rose Gold Ladies Watch.

Jaquet Droz

This very nice 39mm Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Celeste 18k Rose Gold Ladies Watch features an automatic 28-jewel movement with an impressive 68-hour power reserve and is in working order. Functions: Hours, Minutes. The watch is in new store sample condition. Comes with box and papers.

Starting bid: $15,000

Estimate: $22,000 – $30,000

Chopard 18k White Gold Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier Men’s Watch.

Chopard

This sharp-looking Chopard 18k White Gold Tourbillon Esprit de Fleurier Men’s Watch features a top-notch, highly decorated Chopard L.U.C manual-wind movement. Bearing components of the movement are solid 18-karat gold. The case measures 40.5mm x 49mm lug tip to lug tip.

Chopard, back view showing decorated L.U.C movement.

Original Chopard leather band and 18-karat gold tang buckle. Watch is in working order. Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, display showing the excellent eight-day power reserve. Marked ‘Chronometer Esprit de Fleurier, 11/15, 1911, LUC, 1691751.’

Starting bid: $35,000

Estimate: $55,000 – $70,000

Cartier Pasha Moonphase perpetual calendar.

Cartier

Two Cartier watches are particularly noteworthy. One (above) is an 18-karat yellow gold Cartier Pasha Moonphase perpetual calendar watch with a quartz movement. The 38mm watch comes with its box.

Starting bid: $6,000

Estimate: $12,000 – $18,000

Cartier Tortue 18k Gold Diamond Ladies Watch.

The second Cartier watch is this 18-karat gold Tortue Diamond Ladies Watch, featuring an 18-jewel manual-wind movement. Its case measures 28mm x 34mm. Original Cartier leather strap and gold deployant buckle. Watch is in working order. Functions: Hours, Minutes. Ref 2643. Marked ‘Cartier, 2643, 750, Swiss made, 18781CE.’

The watch is in excellent pre-owned condition and comes in Cartier pouch. No box or papers.

Starting bid: $6,000

Estimate: $9,000 – $12,000

Speake-Marin Velsheda The Piccadilly.

Speake Marin

This rarely seen 41mm Speake-Marin Velsheda The Piccadilly 18k Rose Gold Men’s Watch features an automatic 28-jewel movement with a 50-hour power reserve. The watch includes an original brown leather band with tang 18-karat gold buckle and is in working order. The watch is in new store sample condition and comes with box and papers.

Starting bid: $7,500

Estimate: $11,000 – $15,000

Back view of Speake-Marin Velsheda Piccadilly 18-karat Rose Gold Men’s Watch.

A different kind of auction house

(Sponsored) With more than forty years of experience, Farber Auctions is now expanding its fine jewelry and wristwatch categories with unique selling points for a wide scope of timepiece owners.

First of all, if you don’t want to wait for the auction to happen, Farber’s experienced team will evaluate your wristwatch (or jewelry item), confirm the authenticity and condition, and then develop a minimum valuation. At that point you can move forward with placing your item in the auction, or as an unheard-of service within the auction world, Farber will offer to buy your item at their original estimate right then and there – before it ever goes to auction!

Sellers who would rather let their item go forward in a given auction may very-well realize more than the “buy it now” estimate from Farber, but if for any reason your item does not reach the minimum bid, Farber Auctions will offer buy your wristwatch for their original quoted price after the auction is complete.

Eliminating the risk of leaving you empty handed when the auction is over sets Farber Auctions apart from the crowd and will no doubt appeal to a huge audience of collectors looking to divest themselves of part or all of their collections.

In another unprecedented service, Farber Auctions does not charge the seller any fee when an item is sold. Buyers do pay a premium, while sellers receive the full amount of the hammer price – another reason to look at Farber as a great option when you’re looking to get the most for your watches & jewelry. You simply can’t lose as you know the minimum you will receive for any given item.

Finally, while other auction houses tend to curate ultra-exclusive offerings to appeal only to the highest net worth individuals, Farber Auctions has an ethos that encompasses a wider swath of timepieces and jewelry to come under the hammer. While other auction houses turn their noses up at more moderately priced jewelry and watches, these accessories now have a new home at Farber Auctions.

Greubel Forsey debuts a red gold version of its QP à Équation, an ultra-complicated timepiece with complete perpetual calendar, tourbillon and equation of time function. The watch, which was awarded the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève award for the best Calendar in 2017, utilizes a type of ‘mechanical computer’ to manage all the changes in the displays.

The Greubel Forsey QP à Équation, now with a red gold case and ‘chocolate’ colored dial.

      This ‘computer,’ Greubel Forsey’s seventh invention, is an entirely integrated twenty-five-part component composed of a stack of cams with movable fingers that shift the indications on the dial and caseback. The month’s cam changes the month (seen on the front of the dial) and also moves the Equation of Time disc on the back. The years’ cam controls the leap year indication (front) and also the year and seasons on the back.

The QP à Équation, caseback view.

      In summary, the dial side, now chocolate brown-colored, displays the 24 hours of the day and night, the day of the week, the large date, the month, the hours and the minutes; the movement side shows the equation of time and the seasons and the year. Price: $695,000.

Oris Carysfort Reef Limited Edition

Oris has introduced an impressive series of limited edition dive watches over the years, many of which incorporate a philanthropic cause into their finely engineered designs. The just-introduced Lake Baikal Limited Edition, for example, was created in partnership with the Lake Baikal Foundation to help raise funds to conserve the world’s deepest freshwater lake. 

Oris last week carried on its environmental fund-raising by introducing the Carysfort Reef Limited Edition, a significant new watch on two fronts: in its composition—it is the company’s first Aquis model in solid gold—and in its mission to help support the Coral Restoration Foundation, with which Oris has been working since 2014.

Based on the Oris Aquis GMT, the Carysfort Reef Limited Edition comprises just fifty pieces, each with a blue dial and SuperLuminova-filled hour markers and hands. The self-winding Oris 798 (base SW 330-1) movement that powers the watch offers hours, minutes, seconds, 24 hours and date, with a power reserve of forty-two hours.

Oris Carysfort Reef Limited Edition

The watch’s 43.5mm yellow gold case provides water resistance to 300 meters and features an 18-karat security crown and a bi-color rotating bezel. The caseback has a sapphire crystal inlay decorated with a Carysfort Reef motif and the number of the watch within the edition. 

The watch’s namesake, Carysfort Reef, is in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary near Key Largo, and it is part of the Florida Reef Tract—the third largest barrier reef in the world and the only barrier reef in the U.S. Since 2014 the Coral Restoration Foundation has been working to restore the reef, which has severely degraded over recent decades. The foundation has made great strides, this year aiming to return 30,000 corals to the reef—up from 25,000 last year.

And this is where the Oris Carysfort Reef Limited edition steps in. Oris is donating three watches to the cause, slated for auction over the next few months, and the funds raised will go directly to supporting the foundation’s work.

The watch, available in April, is fitted on a blue rubber-coated leather strap with an 18-karat gold pin buckle. Price: $19,000.

The latest Oris Diver Sixty-Five chronograph is big, bold, two-register, black and gold monster with a standout sapphire domed crystal.  

This vintage-inspired chronograph, which debuted in mid-2019,  grabs you with its striking black, glossy dial that’s framed with a bronze-edged bezel and gilt applied markers. It loudly says, “Read me. I don’t care if you’re under water or not.”

The brown leather strap (also in a steel bracelet) is comfortable on my loaner with exceptional legibility and super-functional features. Despite the 100 meter water resistance, this bad boy probably will not get wrapped around dive suit.  More than likely, it will time the heck out of a hamburger on a grill.

The watch’s bronze bezel trim is a nod to the highly successful limited edition Carl Brashear Chronograph in bronze which came out a couple of years ago. (Good luck finding one, along with the other limited edition versions Oris has launched recently.)

So what’s not to like?

Design and Finish
I think the downside of this watch includes the size and height and then the very thing that makes this so easy to see. I’m not a fan of gilt. I said it.  It’s me, not you. I don’t doubt their popularity, and I always take a second look at these. I’m just less formal.  My day-to-day watches are low key, usually vintage and don’t attract much attention.  

Don’t get me wrong, Oris isn’t flaunting the gold on this and uses a subtle edge of bronze around the bezel to contrast with the white 60-minutes ring on the black aluminum insert. Even now, in the low light of my laptop, I can see the time, the applied markers and the bezel’s 60 markers. There’s some play in the bezel on the model I have, but it’s not a deal breaker for me.  Still, someone looking at this watch may want to consider how tight they like the action in their bezel. 

Likewise the chronograph function on a diver seems out of sorts. The signed crown is a screw down crown and that always makes sense, so I think the absence of the screw down pushers is more about its design than function. 

From what I know around my dives at the public pool with my kids, this isn’t really a function I need unless I’m timing the life guard’s rest period.  

These are functional and aesthetical compromises, and I think it makes sense if you’re not a die-hard diver.  

Innovation
Innovation usually focuses on a brand’s ability to refine and improve a movement, new case materials, longer reserve time or design.  I think expanding a legacy model to the 21st Century is another way Oris innovates. 

It’s a clever diversification from the successful Sixty-Five diver.  Oris launched the line in 2015 and it keeps showing up with a new dial, case metal, case size options and limited editions. 

Legibility
The legibility of the watch is its dominant aspect. In low light, bright light and even at various angles, it reveals the time easily. The dial and the hands shine clearly through. The hour and minutes hands use SuperlumiNova Light Old Radium for luminescence in the dark. The chronograph hand is gold and has the right color and reflective contrast between the base during other times.

The 43mm case diameter shows off the rose-gold PVD-plated hour, minute and second hands and the hands filled with SuperlumiNova indices make them pop.

The vintage chronograph pushers and retro layout direct the wearer to a deep glossy black dial with two flat-black registers. The minutes counter is at nine and the 30-minute counter at three. Each is read by a stark white hand and a gilt base that offers an exceptional view into the function. 

Hold the watch to the light and you’ll appreciate the antireflective coating on the domed sapphire crystal. The curved sapphire dome offers a clear view heads on, but in any curved crystal, you can sacrifice legibility for design aesthetics, even though this crystal shape is worth it.  

Oris helped this curve with the antireflective coating on both sides of the crystal. What you might lose on the curved crystal (I will always love this despite it) you make it up with the dial size and gilted markers.  The dual-side coating offers clarity at almost any angle. 

Rarity and Value
Heritage lines are becoming very common in brands that can reach back in their archives. Oris did this very well on the first model of the Sixty-Five and continues with that success.

There aren’t many watches like this one to compare it to, although the use of gilt accents is a design element we’re seeing more frequently.  The gold or bronze accents aren’t unique but are well suited to sit next to other chronograph divers at a competitive price (for instance, alongside the recent Tudor Black Bay model.) 

Under all the bling, the Oris 771 movement, built from a Sellita SW 510 base, offers an automatic winding with a 48-hour reserve.  Its screw down crown offers water resistance and allows hand winding. 

 The design, comfortable brown leather strap with stainless steel buckle is a good version for land-lovers who want the functions and brand. Of course, Oris also offers a stainless-steel bracelet with folding clasp. 

Priced at $4,000 (leather strap) and $4,250 (steel bracelet), the Diver Sixty-Five chronograph shows that Oris continues to find the balance between design, function and value.


Specifications:

  • Reference number: 01 771 7744 4354
  • Movement: Oris 771, base SW 510
  • Case & Bezel: Multi-piece stainless steel and bronze uni-directional rotating diver’s bezel with an aluminum insert
  • Case Back: Stainless steel, screwed
  • Crown: Stainless steel screw-in security crown and pushers 
  • Crystal: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
  • Water resistance: 10 bar/100 m
  • Dial: Retro bi-compax dial layout with a black, curved dial and applied rose gold PVD plated indices and hour, minute and seconds hands
  • Hands: Applied Indices and hands are filled with SuperLumiNova® Light Old Radium
  • Bracelet: Brown leather strap with stainless steel buckle or stainless-steel bracelet with folding clasp
  • Dimensions: 43 mm and lug width 21 mm.