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Michael Thompson

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The latest MB&F M.A.D. 1 watch, the M.A.D.1 Time to Love, is a colorful meld of technology, optimism and artistic expression.

Teaming with French artist and avant-garde designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, MB&F has infused the M.A.D.1 design with the artist’s color pallet (red, blue and yellow) as well as his trademark use of upbeat phrases and text. 

Like its three predecessors in the accessibly priced series, the M.A.D. 1 Time to Love is a 42mm titanium-cased automatic watch characterized by a dial-side rotor that spins gleefully as its wearer moves.

Hours and minutes are displayed along the side of the case with revolving hour and minute cylinders, engraved and highly visible thanks to a liberal use of SuperLumiNova. 

MB&F has taken a reliable Miyota  821A automatic movement, flipped it upside down (in a reference to MB&F’s HM3 and HM8) and added a triple-blade, titanium and tungsten rotor with unidirectional winding (which MB&F explains is essential for easy, high-speed rotation).

For this latest edition, MB&F incorporates de Castelbajac’s colors in lacquer on the three rotor blades, one of which is heavier than the others to optimize spinning. A fourth color, bright green, is seen on the piece’s case-side hour disc.

Several thoughtful quotes from the artist also provide a personal touch to the piece. These include a quote on the base of the dial (“Ce trésor rare et précieux, c’est ta vie. Le temps vole de ses ailes blanches. Tu es le gardien de ton temps”. This translates into English as: “This rare and precious treasure is your life. Time flies with its white wings. You are the guardian of your time”.

In addition, de Castelbajac’s own handwriting provides the font for the hour and minute rings, while the crown features an engraving of an angel talking to the moon, a recurring theme for the artist.

The leather strap is embroidered with the name of the watch, ‘Time to Love’, and each timepiece comes with two straps – one in black and the other in white.

As with previous M.A.D. 1 offering, MB&F will launch the new 999-piece limited edition model via an online raffle, which for this model opens today (April 3) and will be live until until April 17.

Half of the pieces will be made available for the MB&F Tribe (registered collectors of MB&F pieces) and Friends (suppliers) on a first-come, first-served basis. The rest will be available to the general public using the same raffle system as before to ensure fair distribution.

Given the strong demand of previous models, we expect this new MB&F  M.A.D.1 Time to Love to sell out quickly. 

Price: $3,600.

Artist and designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (left) with MB&F founder Maximilian Busser.

 

Jaeger-LeCoultre has updated its flagship New York City boutique at 701 Madison Avenue with a redesigned main floor, a cafe and new historical and educational areas.

The open-plan main floor has been designed as a series of flowing spaces that offer different levels of interaction for visitors. A new Craftsmanship Table displays examples of the watchmaker’s artisanal craftsmanship, which includes enameling, engraving and gem-setting.

To the right of the entrance, arranged to form an oval, display counters showcase all of the highlights of the watchmaker’s current collections. Nearby, an interactive ‘caliber wall’ draws visitors to discover some of the most emblematic of the more than 1,400 calibers created by Jaeger-LeCoultre since its founding.

Beyond the display counters, an interactive Strap Wall enables clients to personalize their timepieces by experimenting with the many options and discovering their own perfect pairing of watch case with strap material, color and stitching. The power of personalization is taken even further with a display of engraved and lacquered Reverso case-backs.

The 1931 Café

In the area to the left of the entrance, visitors are invited to enjoy a refreshment in the 1931 Café. Named for the year in which the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was born, the café features a wall of tiles in a bespoke pattern derived from lettering created by Alex Trochut under the Made of Makers program – a subtle homage to the Art Deco design of the Reverso.

The story of the Manufacture

Next to the 1931 Café, a Cabinet de Curiosités houses a display of objects that tell the story of the Manufacture and its three principal fields of watchmaking excellence through the themes of The Sound Maker, The Stellar Odyssey and The Precision Maker.

Set in the center of the cabinet is a screen where visitors can choose from a library of nine In The Making videos that take them behind the scenes at Jaeger-LeCoultre, revealing in depth the five steps of creating a watch in the company’s fully integrated Manufacture: Design, Production, Assembly, Finishing and Ornamentation.

Atelier d’Antoine

Several steps lead to a VIP Lounge, and nearby, a staircase spirals up to a ‘glass box’ mezzanine overlooking the main floor. This is the home of the Atelier d’Antoine, where themed Discovery Workshops are hosted by watchmaking experts. (Atelier d’Antoine Workshops may be booked online.) 

The newly updated Jaeger-LeCoultre New York City boutique at 701 Madison Ave. is open from Monday through Saturday from 10:00am to 6:pm.

Source: Jaeger-LeCoultre 

Bulova adds its proprietary Precisionist High Performance Quartz movement to the sporty Marine Star collection to create a handsome new collection, called Series C.

One of three new Bulova Marine Star Series C models, each fitted with a Precisionist high-frequency quartz movement.

The movement utilizes a 262-kHz high frequency quartz oscillator that allows timing to 1/1,000th of a second and accuracy to seconds per year. While many Bulova watches that utilize the high-performance movement to display tenths, hundredths and thousandths-of-a-second readings within a chronograph design, the new Series C offers a basic three-hand display, with a date window.

The new collection boasts a new 43mm twelve-sided case finished with brushed facets and polished accents. The watches all offer a unidirectional rotating timing bezel with a ceramic insert, a sapphire crystal, and a screw-down crown ensuring 200m water resistance.

The dials here are nicely textured to mimic the look of ocean waves. The wave pattern is accented by applied hour markers.

One debut features a bright yellow dial, which Bulova teams with a black rubber strap ($695).

The second debut offers a silver dial and a matching stainless steel bracelet ($795).

Finally, a third new Series C model enhances its the luxury appeal with a rose gold-tone stainless steel case and a dark brown ‘chocolate’ dial finished, all fixed to a black rubber strap ($750).

 

 

 

Chronoswiss twists its regulator display from vertical to horizontal with the all-new Strike Two Series, a limited edition collection with two dial-side bridges and a stunning hand-guilloched seconds dial.

The new Chronoswiss Strike Two H2O.

Echoing existing Chronoswiss regulator-dial watches with a vertical layout, such as its Open Gear series, the new Strike Two offers a familiar, contemporary Chronoswiss look, but with a slimmer, smaller case that places its hour subdial at the 3 o’clock position instead of at the top of the dial.

The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gears

Similarly, Chronoswiss has also rotated the seconds dial, here located at the 9 o’clock position. The primary hand, indicating minutes, remains centrally positioned as is the case with most regulator dials.

Measuring 40mm in diameter, smaller than most 42mm Open Gear models, and with a 12.7mm thickness, Strike Two’s horizontal layout is not a first for this Lucerne-based independent, which introduced the design in its Tora collection in the 1990s. 

But while the Tora series primarily featured a dual-time indicator with its 24-hour subdial, the new Strike Two is decidedly a local time affair. 

Two models

Chronoswiss offers two models in the new collection, the H2O and the Golden Gear, each released as a limited edition of one-hundred pieces.

Both are cased in steel, with the H20 model boasting a light blue CVD dial and the Golden Gear edition presenting a slate-colored satin-finished dial with gold accents.

Called Strike Two to call attention to the movement’s twin bridges, the new series also showcases the watch’s gear work, which is notably visible underneath the hour ring.

Known for its beautiful hand-guilloched craftsmanship, Chronoswiss places a sample of this artisanal expertise within the small second dial, which is beautifully finished with a floral pattern.

For Strike Two, Chronoswiss has redesigned its onion crown, creating a slightly smaller version than we’ve seen previously, and adding a flattened end cap.

Inside each watch Chronoswiss fits new Chronoswiss Manufacture Caliber C.6000, developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret and previously seen in a slightly different guise powering the revamped Chronoswiss Delphis.

The movement features a 55-hour power reserve, a ruthenium-coated finish, a tungsten rotor, radial Côtes de Genève finishing and a skeletonized gear train.

Price: CHF 9,800. 

 

Specifications: Chronoswiss Strike Two 

(References: CH-5023-BLSI (H2O) / CH-5023-ANGO (Golden Gear), Limited Edition of 100 each.) 

Case: 40mm by 12.7mm solid 17-part stainless steel case, ground and polished, polished bezel with fluted decorative ring on the side and domed, double anti-reflective sapphire crystal; screwed and satin-finished case back with sapphire crystal, onion crown, water-resistant to 3 bar, screwed strap links.

Movement: Chronoswiss manufacture caliber C. 6000 (collaboration with La Joux-Perret), automatic with skeletonized rotor made of tungsten, ball bearing; armature, escape wheel and screws polished; bridge with Geneva cut, ruthenium plated,  55-hours power reserve. 

Dial: Horizontal regulator, hour display at 3 o’clock (open gear with two vertical bridges), central minute, second at 9 o’clock, hand guilloché. SuperLumiNova indexes. Bottom level with vertical satinage (Golden Gear) or stamped and CVD-Coated (H2O).

Strap: Calfskin with alligator embossing, rubber optional. 

Price: CHF 9,800. 

 

 

 

Breitling launches the new Aerospace B70 Orbiter to celebrate of the twenty-fifth anniversary of the Breitling Orbiter 3, which made the first nonstop balloon flight around the world on March 21, 1999.

The new Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter.

The 43mm by 12.95mm titanium-cased watch, which retains the thermo-compensated SuperQuartz analog and digital movement of Breitling’s ongoing Aerospace series, commemorates the Orbiter flight in several ways.

 

The watch’s dial color echoes the bright orange hue of the Orbiter’s capsule, and Breitling has affixed a segment of the original balloon into the watch, making it fully visible through the transparent caseback.

On the back you’ll also see the Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo around the perimeter with the inscription “First non-stop flight around the world 25th anniversary.”

Breitling has updated the COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber B70 that powers the new watch. The caliber, which effectively displays time measurement with ten times the accuracy of a standard quartz watch, powers numerous functions. These include a 1/100th of a second chronograph (with split-time and flyback functions), countdown timer, second timezone, two alarms, lap function, and perpetual calendar.

On the dial of the new  Aerospace B70 Orbiter you’ll see the Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo on the dial, which indicates the time with luminescent numerals, indexes, and hands.

Breitling offers the new watch on either a titanium bracelet or a black rubber strap with a folding clasp.

 

Prices: $4,700 (rubber strap) and $4,900 (titanium bracelet).

 

Specifications: Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter  

Reference: EB70101A1O1E1 or EB70101A1O1S1

Movement: 

Caliber: Breitling Manufacture Caliber B70

Diameter: 34.8 millimeters

Depth: 5.85 millimeters

Movement: SuperQuartz, thermo-compensated quartz, electronic,

analog and 12/24 hr LCD digital display; EOL indicator, power reserve is approx. 2 years battery life.

Chronograph: 1/100th second, max. 99 hrs 59 min. 59 sec., flyback function, electronic tachymeter, chronograph (lap timer, flight times).

Other functions: countdown timer, 2nd timezone, alarm

Calendar: digital, day and date programmed for 4 years

Certification: COSC-certified

Case:

Material: Titanium

Diameter: 43 millimeters

Thickness: 12.95 millimeters

Height (upper lug tip to lower lug tip): 52.25 millimeters

Water resistance: up to 100 meters

Glass: sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides

Caseback: titanium with screws

Pushers: three integrated push pieces

Bezel: bidirectional, ratcheted

Dial: Orange with Super-LumiNova luminescent numerals, indexes, and hands.

Strap: Titanium bracelet or black rubber strap with folding clasp.

Prices: $4,700 (rubber strap) and $4,900 (titanium bracelet)