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Within its LVMH Watch Week 2023 debut collection, TAG Heuer celebrates the six-decade anniversary of its Carrera with the new Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary, a 600-piece edition with a retro black and silver ‘panda’ dial.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary

In addition, the Le Locle watchmaker launches  a colorful Monza Flyback Chronometer ($13,850), reprises its light-powered TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph ($3,050) and expands its Connected smartwatch collection.

The new light-powered TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph.

 

The new TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer.

Below, we’ll look at the new Carrera celebratory debut. Look to upcoming posts for details about the new Monza Flyback, the Aquaracer Solargraph and the Connected debuts.

New Carrera

Since its debut in 1963, the Carrera has been a Heuer and TAG Heuer mainstay, representing the watchmaker’s deep connections to auto racing. By the late 1960s, Heuer offered the stylish Carrera reference 2447 SN with a either a silvered dial and black subdials, or the other way around, a design known respectively as ‘panda’ and ‘reverse panda’.

To celebrate Carrera’s sixty-year history, TAG Heuer’s new Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary reinterprets the original ‘panda’ version of the watch with a limited edition that mimics the original in faithful detail. 

The colors on the new edition are the same as the original, as are the black stripes down the central hands and hour markers, the double stops at 12, and the black counters with high-contrast white markings. Retro-fans will enjoy the vintage Heuer logo  with the Carrera monicker above it. Even the counter at 6 o’clock features the ‘Swiss’ rather than the modern ‘Swiss Made’.

Differences on the dial can be seen in the 60-minute and 12-hour counters, which here are reversed. In addition, you’ll not find the tritium indication (the letter T) on the dial for obvious reasons. 

TAG Heuer has protected the dial with a 39mm polished steel case and a glass box sapphire crystal. This retro style is underscored by the watch’s vintage pushers, beige luminescence and thin tension ring around the dial’s outer edge.

Inside, TAG Heuer fits its excellent Heuer 02, an in-house automatic chronograph caliber with a column-wheel and an eighty-hour power reserve. The modern caliber is also displayed in a contemporary manner with a clear sapphire caseback that reveals a special Carrera 60th Anniversary rotor.

TAG Heuer notes that this Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is the first watch in planned series of releases to mark the 60th Anniversary of the Carrera.

Price: $7,400. 

Among its wide-ranging LVMH Watch Week 2023 debuts (which include several new Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang models) Hublot revisits its 1980 debut model, the first luxury Swiss watch that dared to arrive attached to a rubber strap.

The Hublot Classic Fusion Original is available in titanium, black ceramic and yellow gold, and in three case sizes.

Designed by Hublot founder Carlo Crocco in 1980, the 36mm ‘Classic Original’ embodied contemporary luxury with a polished black lacquered dial, no markers except for twelve screws along the bezel, a date window, facetted hands and a vanilla-scented black rubber strap.

Hublot founder Carlo Crocco with early Hublot models, including what Hublot now calls the Classic Original.

It didn’t take long for enthusiasts, in search of an original design, to agree that its spare dial and supple black rubber strap represented a modern approach to the typically busier dial and leather straps of classic Swiss watch design.

Hublot in 2023 revives the 1980 original with the new Classic Fusion Original, an updated version that adds a more sophisticated, multi-level case with a clear sapphire caseback.

The newest version also now offers the modern Hublot six-screw bezel design and, with two of the new models, is powered by modern Hublot MHUB1110 Sellita-based automatic movement. Even the Hublot logo at the top of the dial has changed over the years, though ever so subtly.

To reach the widest range of new enthusiasts, Hublot offers the new Classic Fusion Original in three different case metals and in three different sizes. Thus, you’ll find the new watch available in yellow gold, titanium and ceramic and the cases made in 42mm, 38mm and 33mm diameters.

We’ll show you all the LVMH Watch Week 2023 debuts in upcoming posts. 

Prices: 42mm:  $8,200 (Titanium), $10,000 (Black Magic) and $24,100.00 (Yellow Gold.)

For 38mm: $7,900 (Titanium), $8,500 (Black Magic) and $20,500 (Yellow Gold).

33mm quartz-powered: $6,500 (Titanium), $7,300 (Black Magic) and $17,800 (Yellow Gold).

Oris adds to its Caliber 400 series of long power reserve movements with Caliber 473, a new manual-wind movement with a 120-hour (five-day) power reserve that the independent watchmaker will debut in a new watch, the Big Crown Calibre 473.

The new Oris Big Crown Calibre 473

While Oris has previously fit its Big Crown Pointer Date fit with the automatic Caliber 403, also a five-day-power reserve caliber, the new watch will premiere the latest manual-wind iteration of the Caliber 400 series, which debuted in 2020 as the first Oris in-house automatic movement in forty years.  The new caliber is the watchmaker’s tenth in-house caliber in ten years.

Derived from the firm’s well-known Big Crown Pointer Date, the new watch is a 38mm steel model with a blue dial displaying the familiar Big Crown’s familiar central two-hand time display with a central date hand and small seconds at 6 o’clock.

Like the full series of Oris Caliber 400 movements, Caliber 473 is also constructed to demonstrate high levels of anti-magnetism.

New Oris Caliber 473, a manual-winder with five-day power reserve.

And like earlier models fit with Caliber 400 series movements, the new watch also comes with a ten-year warranty and ten-year recommended service intervals. Oris notes that new caliber took four years to develop and is the subject of a pending patent.

The watchmaker has placed the 120-hour power reserve indicator on the back of Caliber 473 to inform the wearer when its time to rewind. As a bonus, Oris is premiering its new stainless steel butterfly clasp with fine adjustment system on the Big Crown Calibre 473. 

Price: $4,400.

 

Specifications: Oris Big Crown Calibre 473

Movement: Manual-wind Oris Caliber 473, 120- hour power reserve indicator on reverse, fine timing device and stop-second, accuracy -3/+5 seconds a day (within COSC tolerances), power reserve of 120 hours, highly anti-magnetic.

Case: Multi-piece 38mm stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating inside, stainless steel screw-in security crown. Caseback is stainless steel, screwed with see-through sapphire glass. 50 meters of water resistance.  

Dial: Blue with luminous indices, numbers and hands printed with Super-LumiNova. 

Strap: Olive brown, crafted from sustainably sourced deer leather produced by Oris’s Swiss partner Cervo Volante. New Oris-developed stainless steel butterfly clasp with fine adjustment system. 

Price: $4,400.

Focusing on its contemporary Defy collection for early 2023, Zenith this week adds new 36mm and skeleton models to its hot new Defy Skyline series while also introducing a new Defy Extreme design.

Two of the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton models pictured alongside an existing Defy Skyline.

Defy Skyline Skeleton 

Introduced last year, the 41mm Defy Skyline has become a strong-selling steel bracelet design for Zenith. The watch, with its constantly running 1/10th of a second counter at 9 o’clock (completing one revolution every ten seconds) introduced El Primero 3620, a new iteration of its El Primero 3600, which headlined the debut of the Zenith Chronomaster Sport in 2021.

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton, in blue.

As Zenith explains, this automatic manufacture movement drives the 1/10th of a second hand directly from the escapement, which beats at 36,000 VpH, thus making it a “natural fraction-of-a-second indication.”

With the new Defy Skyline Skeleton Zenith adds two versions of the steel watch with a skeletonized symmetric dial that looks much like four-pointed stars. Zenith notes that the open-work here is a direct reference to a Zenith “double Z” logo of the 1960s.

You may recall that the Defy Skyline’s faceted bezel is also meant to recall early 1960s eight-sided Defy models that have been now reimagined with twelve sides, each positioned as extensions to the hour markers.

Blue or black

Defying the typical hard-to-read skeleton dial design, Zenith purposefully applied a generous amount of SuperLuminova to the Skyline Skeleton’s applied baton hour markers and its central hour and minute hands. 

Zenith offers the new skeleton design in a black or blue hue. The same color can be found on the main plate as well as the bridges and open star-shaped oscillating weight, visible from the back.

As usual, Zenith mixes its finishes, applying matte, satin-brushed and polished surfaces to the steel case and bezel. Its efficient automatic bi-directional winding mechanism with a star-shaped rotor delivers a power reserve of approximately sixty hours. The Defy’s steel bracelet can be swapped with the supplied rubber strap and steel folding clasp the boasts a starry sky pattern, matching the dial.

Price: $11,000

 

Defy Skyline 36mm

Also new in 2023 is a slightly smaller Skyline model, which debuts in three new pastel colors, each offered with or without a diamond bezel.

Unlike the 41mm debut edition Skyline and the new Skeleton version, this unisex example is a traditional time-and-date model fitted with a Zenith Elite movement that doesn’t include the one-tenth-of-a-second subdial at 6 o’clock.

Price: $8,500 (no diamonds) and  $12,000 (with diamonds).

One of the new Zenith Defy Skyline 36 models. The series is available with and without a diamond bezel.

Zenith also adds a Boutique Edition to the lineup of the original 41mm model offerings. This model  features a contrasting color scheme with rose gold highlights. Zenith has engraved the watch’s anthracite dial with a rose gold motif and added rose gold hands and hour markers.

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Boutique Edition.

The intent, according to Zenith, is to mimic the night sky and its twinkling stars. To do this, artisans have engraved the Skyline’s characteristic four-pointed star dial pattern and then plated it with rose gold. 

Zenith will deliver the watch on a steel bracelet with a satin-brushed surface and chamfered and polished edges. An easy-change black rubber strap with a starry sky pattern is also provided.

Price: $8,400.

 

Defy Extreme Glacier 

Zenith also adds the Defy Extreme Glacier in 2023 as an extension of its rugged 45mm titanium-cased Defy Extreme collection, a series that boasts a 1/100-of-a-second El Primero chronograph.

The new Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier boasts a chalcedony dodecagonal outer bezel and pusher protectors.

More specifically, the new watch is meant to complement the Defy Extreme Desert from 2021. While that watch was designed to echo hot and arid conditions, the new model is inspired by frozen landscapes and built with a chalcedony dodecagonal outer bezel and pusher protectors.

Chalcedony is a crystalline semi-translucent stone with a pale blue color meant to look like a frozen glacier. Zenith says each stone is cut and polished by hand, and because each exhibits slightly different colors and fibers, every bezel from the fifty-piece limited edition will appear slightly different on each of the fifty examples of the Defy Extreme Glacier.

Zenith continues the ice-cold theme by making the chronograph counters using transparent sapphire crystal that’s also given a terrific frosted finish to look icy and to allow light to pass through. 

Through the frosted finish the wearer will see an El Primero 9004 high-frequency chronograph movement, found in all the Defy Extreme models. The movement offers 1/100th-of-a -second time measurements with two independent escapements. One beats at 5Hz (36,000 VpH) for timekeeping while the second vibrates at 50Hz (360,000 VpH) to activate the chronograph function. Zenith makes the nicely finished movement, a certified chronometer, visible through the sapphire display back.

Zenith finishes the watch with a black Velcro strap and white rubber strap, which can be easily swapped with the titanium bracelet using Zenith’s quick strap-change mechanism. 

As noted, Zenith will offer the Defy Extreme Glacier as a limited edition of fifty pieces, available exclusively at Zenith stores and online boutiques. 

Price: $26,100.

Vacheron Constantin commemorates the start of the Chinese Lunar New Year (January 22) with a Métiers d’Art limited edition duo, each with a Grand Feu enamel Year of the Rabbit dial. Both watches are powered by the watchmaker’s excellent Calibre 2460 G4 that allows for a hand-free dial that highlights the artisanal decoupage dial.

Each 40mm watch features the symbolic rabbit directly etched into the gold dial. The pattern is semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base, surrounded by flowers and vegetation that appears to be floating over the dial.

One model is cased in platinum and features a blue tone dial. The other, cased in pink gold, offers a bronze tone dial.

 

Both rich hues are the result of Grand Feu enameling whereby artisans apply enamel in successive layers, each fired at temperatures between 800 and 900 degrees Celsius.

The Calibre 2460 G4 opens up the space on the dial thanks to a four-aperture display showing the hours, minutes, days and dates. Vacheron Constantin has used this display for numerous watches over the years in part to highlight a particularly rich artisanal dial.

The automatic caliber 2460 G4 has a 40-hour power reserve. This movement is certified with the Hallmark of Geneva.

The movement in the platinum model is on display from the back of the case, where the viewer can see a 22-karat gold oscillating weight with the Vacheron Constantin Maltese cross logo.

The automatic caliber 2460 G4, visible through the sapphire back of the platinum model. 

And of course the caliber on both models is beautifully finished in accordance with the criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva.

Prices: $131,000 (in platinum with sapphire caseback) and $108,000 (pink gold). Each is a limited edition of nine watches.