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The Watches

H. Moser Offers a Perpetual Lesson

Since it debuted in 2005, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has been widely seen as one of the simplest watches of its type to read, set and adjust. This week, H. Moser launches the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue Tutorial, a new model within the collection that cleverly plays with its original minimalist image by displaying a ‘cheat sheet’ of operating instructions directly on its blue dial.

The new H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial (left) and Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue.

The new Tutorial model is one of two debuts that commemorate the original Funky Blue edition of the watch, first seen with its stunning blue fumé dial in 2015. In addition to the limited edition Tutorial edition, H. Moser is also launching a core collection version featuring the brand’s logo in transparent lacquer.

The H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial.

As you can see on the Tutorial model dial, H. Moser essentially reminds the wearer with short written phrases how simple it is to read the time, date, month and even the leap year on its Endeavour Perpetual Calendar models.

Hence, the busy dial on the Tutorial edition humorously turns this “perpetual calendar for dummies” (as H. Moser call the watch) into a blue chalkboard crammed with text and icons.

H. Moser continues to power both watches with its superb hand-finished, manually wound HMC 800 caliber, a double-barrel, slow-beat (18,000 vph) integrated perpetual calendar movement with an impressive seven-day power reserve and a Moser escapement. See all specifications below for additional details.

Prices: $60,000 (Funky Blue core collection) and $65,000 (Funky Blue Tutorial version, limited to twenty pieces)

Specifications: H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue

(Reference 1800-0204 with logo in transparent lacquer and Reference 1800-0205, Tutorial model, a limited edition of 20 pieces).

Movement: Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture caliber, frequency of 18,000 VpH, power reserve of 7 days, hacking seconds, double barrel, interchangeable Moser escapement, original Straumann hairspring, pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold. Movement and components hand-finished and decorated.

Case: 42mm by 11.9mm white gold, curved sapphire crystal, curved see-through sapphire crystal case back, screw-in crown adorned with an M.

Dial: Funky Blue fumé with sunburst pattern, H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer or Tutorial decals, leaf-shaped hands, months indicated by a small arrow-shaped center hand, seconds hand,big date display. Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and leap year cycle indicator on movement side.

Strap: Hand-stitched beige kudu leather, solid 18-karat white gold folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.

Price: $60,000 (Funky Blue core collection) and $65,000 (Funky Blue Tutorial version, limited to twenty pieces).

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The Watches

Split Dial Highlights Final Zenith Lupin III A384 Series

Zenith releases the third and final watch in a special series that debuted in the metal in 2019, but had its origins fifty years ago.

The new Zenith Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – Final Edition dramatically combines two dials of Zenith watches designed to echo the famed Zenith A384 from 1969.

The new Zenith Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – Final Edition

That original watch, depicted with a (then non-existent) black, grey and gilt dial, was seen on the wrist of a character in the Japanese anime series starring Arsene Lupin III. The same character, Daisuke Jigen, wears another Zenith A384 later in the series, again with a dial Zenith had not yet designed.

Zenith finally created a genuine Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third watch in 2019, followed by a second edition in 2020, with each model depicting the ‘panda’ style dials seen in the animated series.

This year the watchmaker finalizes the series with this appropriately named debut—and the design is both unexpected and exhilarating.

The new watch, a limited edition of 250, combines the two previous Zenith dials in this Lupin III series. On the left, the watch features a semi-glossy black dial, grey counters and golden markers and hands from the first edition. On the right side Zenith places a white dial with contrasting black counters in the “panda” layout inspired by the second Lupin the Third edition. 

The new Zenith Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – Final Edition features a 37mm titanium case in the proportions of the original A384. Inside Zenith fits its superb El Primero 400 automatic integrated column-wheel chronograph (see specifications below). The rotor, according to Zenith displays an engraving of Daisuke Jigen through its sapphire caseback. We’ll show you the back of the watch as soon as we obtain images from Zenith.

This piece is limited to 250 pieces. Price: $10,000

 

Specifications: Zenith Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – Final Edition

(Reference: 95.L384.400/50.M384, Limited edition of 250)

Movement: El Primero 400 Automatic column-wheel chronograph with a frequency of 36,000 Vph (5 Hz) and a power reserve of 50 hours.

Functions: Hours and minutes in the center, small seconds at nine o’clock. Chronograph: central chronograph hand, 12-hour counter at six o’clock, 30-minute counter at three o’clock. Tachymetric scale. Date indication.
Case: 37-mm titanium, tonneau-shaped and water resistant to fifty meters.

Dial: Black & white special split color design. Hands and hour-markers are rhodium-plated or gold-plated, faceted and coated with beige SuperLuminova.
Bracelet: Titanium “ladder” bracelet and double folding clasp.

Price: $10,000

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The Watches

Grand Seiko Expands U.S. Special Edition Sōkō Collection

Grand Seiko introduces two new U.S.-exclusive Special Edition timepieces to its Heritage Collection. The new models are extensions within the watchmaker’s Special Edition Sōkō collection introduced last year to celebrate the end of autumn and the sight of the first winter frost.

Grand Seiko says its designers were inspired by the clear blue skies over the Sea of Japan during the early winter months for the dial of this Hi-Beat 36000 model (SBGH295).

And as you might expect, both of the new models feature light blue dials.

The first new watch, the Spring Drive SBGA471, features a light blue vertically textured dial designed to mimic the frozen trunks of bamboo trees of the Arashiyama bamboo forest, according to the watchmaker.

This model, Grand Seiko SBGA471, features an icy blue vertically textured dial inspires by frozen trunks of trees in the Arashiyama bamboo forest.

With its distinctive power reserve indicator, this watch’s dial is framed by Grand Seiko’s 44GS 40mm case (here in titanium), first seen fifty-five years ago and characterized by the watchmaker’s expertly rendered flat and mirror polished surfaces.

The second is the SBGH295, a 40mm steel-cased Hi-Beat 36000 Grand Seiko watch with an escapement that vibrates at 36,000 beats per hour. This watch’s blue dial is framed with a mirrored, multi-sided case inspired by Grand Seiko’s first automatic watch, the 62GS, from 1967. Grand Seiko’s superb Zaratsu polishing and a bezel-free, fairly wide dial opening characterize the case.

Collectors may recognize the blue dial from the Grand Seiko “ice blue” dials introduced on the first U.S. Limited Edition collection in 2018.

Grand Seiko Automatic Spring Drive Caliber 9R65.

The movements

Grand Seiko powers each of the new Sōkō Frost limited editions with specialties of the Grand Seiko house. In the Spring Drive model you’ll find caliber the 9R65, which combines the high torque of a mechanical watch with Spring Drive’s unique integrated circuit control system.

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 Caliber 9S85.

As noted, Grand Seiko places its 9S85 Hi-Beat caliber inside SBGH295. The movement oscillates at a rate of ten beats per second (36,000 vph) and yet still maintains an impressive power reserve of 55 hours.

Both watches are water resistant to 100 meters, and each is equipped with a matching metal bracelet and a crocodile leather strap with three-fold clasp push button release.

Prices: $6,000 (SBGA471 Spring Drive) and $6,900 (SBGH295 Hi-Beat).

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The Watches

MB&F Teams with Bulgari for Gemstone-Set LM FlyingT Allegra

MB&F has joined forces with Bulgari to create the new Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra, a dramatic colored-gem-set iteration of the LM FlyingT, MB&F’s first venture into feminine-focused design.

You may recall that the LM FlyingT was quite a success upon its launch in 2019. Customers clamored for it, and the industry awarded it the prize for Best Ladies’ Complication at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The 39.5mm by 20mm watch displays hours and minutes on a 50° vertically tilted dial with two serpentine hands regulated by a dramatically raised flying tourbillon at the center.

Just last year MB&F added a limited edition guilloché-dialed LM FlyingT series cased in red gold and platinum. More recently, the watchmaker launched an eye-catching Lapis Lazuli LM FlyingT model. MB&F noted at the time that it expected to announce at least one new gemstone-set edition annually.

The new MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra, here in a pink gold case.

For the newest edition, the MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra, Bulgari’s well-established gemstone expertise merges with the LM FlyingT’s existing diamond-set dial plate to create a terrific counterbalance the technical center of the dial.

Prominent single stones of tourmaline, tsavorite, diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and topaz flank the watch’s diamond-set flying tourbillon and the balance at the center.

Bulgari opts for a cabochon cut for each stone, a choice that not only makes the stones all the more prominent above the dial, but that also perfectly matches the FlyingT Allegra’s round case.

On the back of the watch MB&F again creates a sun-shaped oscillating weight with gold rays rotating on a ruthenium disc above a platinum counterweight.

The caseback reveals the sun-shaped oscillating weight.

MB&F will offer twenty MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra watches, cased in either pink gold or white gold. Each is set with fully diamond-set dial plates and adorned with Bulgari’s fine gemstones. Price: $185,000.

 

Specifications: MB&F x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra

Movement: FlyingT featuring three-dimensional vertical architecture, automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house, central flying 60-second tourbillon, balance frequency of 18,000 (2.5 Hz), power reserve of 100 hours, three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18k 5N+ red gold, titanium and platinum.

Dial: Hours and minutes displayed on a 50° vertically tilted dial with two serpentine hands. White gold version set with diamonds, tsavorite, topaz, amethyst, tanzanite and tourmaline. Pink gold version set with diamonds, tsavorite, tourmaline, tanzanite, amethyst and rubellite.

Case: 39mm x 20mm white gold or pink gold, set with diamonds. High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal on back. Two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right. Water resistance to 30 meters.

Strap: Alligator leather strap with white or pink gold pin buckle matching the case.

Price: $185,000.

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The Watches

Greubel Forsey Updates Balancier S

Greubel Forsey has updated its Balancier S with a new case, new finishing and a newly brushed titanium bezel. While retaining the movement of the original Balancier S, the new watch, the Balancier S², is designed by Greubel Forsey with far fewer traditional dial and bezel motifs as the watchmaker positions the new design to become an ‘everyday wear’ model.

The new Greubel Forsey Balancier S²

The new dial is darker, providing greater contrast with an intense black or grey backdrop that cuts through the balance bridge between 5 and 9 o’clock. And with sharper edges and a new matte finish on the bridge and indexes, each element is easier to read. Those primary indexes are notably larger than those found on the initial Balancier S.

In another bid for contemporary style, Greubel Forsey has smartly skeletonized the Balancier’s central double-arched titanium bridge. This syncs nicely with the new titanium bracelet and extends the effect of the all-new brushed bezel.

Along with its slightly larger case (at 46.5mm, a bit more than the 45mm original), and aforementioned openworked bridge and font-free bezel, a third prominent finishing change characterizes the more contemporary look of the Balancier S².   You’ll not find the large Greubel Forsey signature on the barrel cover. Instead, you’ll see a very modern circular pattern. Greubel Forsey places its signature under the internal bezel between 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock.

Greubel Forsey skeletonizes the bridge and redesigns the power reserve display on the new Balancier S²

The movement operates with two coaxial barrels mounted in series offering a 72-hour power reserve (shown at 2 o’clock via a new fan-shaped aperture). The small seconds hand at 8 o’clock is, like the balance wheel, placed at a 30-degree angle.

Greubel Forsey will make eighty-eighty pieces of this new Balancier S² with a charcoal grey backdrop, producing twenty-two pieces per year from 2022 to 2025. For the version with a light grey background, the manufacture will produce sixteen pieces per year over four years, totaling sixty-four pieces. Both versions will come in a titanium case.

Price: CHF 205,000 (rubber strap) and CHF 245,000 (titanium bracelet).

Specifications: Greubel Forsey Balancier S2

Movement: Balancier S² manual-wind with 72-hour power reserve, escapement inclined 30 degrees, two coaxial series-coupled fast-rotating barrels.

Case: 46.5mm by 13.75mm titanium with curved synthetic sapphire crystal, three-dimensional, variable geometry-shaped bezel, profiled lugs, screwed fixing, transparent back with high domed sapphire crystal, titanium security screws and raised engraving “Balancier Incliné” and “Greubel Forsey.” Water resistant to 100 meters.

Dial: Three-dimensional, variable geometry minute-circle, polished, with engraved and lacquered minutes indexes, power-reserve indicator engraved and lacquered, multi-level, openworked suspended-arch bridge, 
black treatment, straight-grained and polished, polished beveling and countersinks.

Strap Non-animal material, rubber with texture in relief, titanium folding clasp, engraved GF logo, or three-row metal bracelet in titanium, folding clasp with integrated fine adjustment, engraved GF logo.

Price: CHF 205,000 (rubber strap) and CHF 245,000 (titanium bracelet).

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