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Collectors in Geneva for Watches & Wonders 2024 can also stop in at the Patek Philippe Salon on Rue de Rhone, where the watchmaker will exhibit select items from its Rare Handcrafts 2024 collection.

From Saturday, April 13, to Saturday, April 27, 2024, watch enthusiasts can join the general public to see more than eighty artisanal watches, dome clocks, desk clocks and pocket watches during what is an annual high-end horological event in this premier watchmaker’s hometown.

The exhibit is a must-see for those who appreciate artisanal workmanship on all forms of timekeeping instruments. Beautifully rendered, hand-crafted dials, cases, stands and decorative accessories will be on display, many of which will exhibit examples of high-end enameling, marquetry, engraving, guilloché and dial-painting.   

Here are two examples of what Patek Philippe will have on display.

Portrait of a White Egret

Ref. 995/143G-001, Portrait of a White Egret

This 45mm white gold pocket watch is a unique piece featuring a case back in wood marquetry, highlighting a white egret and its plumage. The marquetry maker cut out and assembled fifty-three tiny veneer parts and 400 inlays, which include eighteen species of wood in different colors, textures and veining.

 

Artisans hand-guilloche the gold dial with a sunburst motif recalling the plumage and coat it with translucent blue enamel, according to the traditional technique of flinqué enameling.

Applied Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands, all in white gold, indicate the time. An orange opal cabochon echoing the golden color of the bird’s bill embellishes the crown.

The white gold stand is decorated with a motif inspired by reeds and is attached to an oval base in silver obsidian. Inside Patek Philippe fits a manually wound movement with small seconds.

 

Ref. 5089G-129, Morning on the Beach

This 38.6mm white gold Calatrava wristwatch features a dial in wood marquetry. A limited edition of ten, the watch’s dial highlights a surfer waiting for the waves on a California beach.

Morning on the Beach

To create the dial, the marquetry maker cut out and assembled 100 tiny veneer parts, as well as seventy-five microscopic inlays, together spanning twenty-three species of wood of different colors, textures and veining.

Dauphine-style hands in white gold with a pierced center fillet adorn the dial.

The white-gold case is endowed with a sapphire crystal case back protected by a hinged dust cover. When open, this allows a view of the caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement.

The Patek Philippe Salon is located at 41 Rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland, and is open from 10 am until 6:30 pm. It closes at 6 pm on Saturdays and is closed Sundays. 

Patek Philippe places a minute repeater within its contemporary Aquanaut Luce collection, launching it within two rose-gold-cased, highly gem-set models. One version on a strap is resplendent in a rainbow of multicolored baguette-cut sapphires while a second model offers an invisible-set baguette-cut-diamond dial and a gem-rich rose gold bracelet.

The new multi-colored Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie (Reference 5260/355R-001).
The new Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001.

While we’ve seen several complications within the Aquanaut since its debut in 1997, including the very recent Annual Calendar (Reference 5261), these debuts, each measuring 38.8mm by 42.5mm, mark the first time the watchmaker has added a minute repeater to the collection.

Patek Philippe has a history of debuting new complicated watches within its collections aimed at feminine watch fans. In 2009 the watchmaker debuted its caliber CH 29-535 PS manually wound chronograph movement in a Ladies First Chronograph model.

And for six years starting in 2011 the Reference 7000 Ladies First Minute Repeater (with the superb caliber R 27 PS) graced the watchmaker’s catalog. Even as far back as 1916, Patek Philippe debuted its first-ever chiming watch as a ladies’ five-minute repeater in a platinum case with a chain bracelet.

 

The new multi-colored Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie (Reference 5260/355R-001) shows off the watchmaker’s artisanal prowess set with fifty-two multicolored baguette-cut sapphires, 112 baguette-cut diamonds and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds.

 

Those baguette gemstones are invisibly set, which means each stone is cut with lateral grooves embedded in tiny gold rails that will be invisible once the stone is set.

 

The bracelet model, Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001, is set with 130 baguette-cut diamonds on the dial and the outer row of the bezel and 779 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires forming a rainbow on the inner row of the bezel, the flanks of the case, the minute repeater slide-piece and the rose-gold bracelet.

 

Aware that such intense high-carat settings can distract some wearers who deign to check the time, Patek Philippe has been careful to ensure a highly legible dial on each watch. On the bracelet model specifically, twelve multicolored baguette-cut sapphires distinctly mark the hours while the hour hand is set with three baguette rubies and the minute hand is easy to see thanks to five blue sapphires.

Inside both watches, the automatic Caliber R 27 movement chimes on demand on two classic gongs (the hour, quarters and minutes elapsed since the last quarter) when the side-piece is activated. The movement’s off-center 22-karat gold guilloche mini-rotor is visible through a sapphire crystal case back.

For each model, price is on request. 

New Nautilus Models

In addition to debuting the minute repeater in two Aquanaut Luce models, Patek Philippe also debuts three new Nautilus Haute Joaillerie models.

One is cased in white gold set with 1,500 brilliant-cut diamonds with 876 brilliant-cut blue sapphires (6.58 ct, Reference 7118/1451G-001),one offers rubies (Reference 7118/1452G-001) and the third is set with emeralds (Reference 7118/1453G-001) using the “snow setting” technique.

 

With each, the bracelet is equally eye-catching. Diamonds on the outer links of each model contrasts with colored gems on the inner links to better highlight the original construction of the bracelet. Prices on request.

 

And finally, Patek Philippe completes its late-2023 gem-set extravaganza with two new Ladies’ Nautilus models in rose gold with a purple decor.

The new Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010R-013.

One, the Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010R-013 ($39,624), offers a purple lacquered dial and a matching strap in a composite material, while the second, the Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010/1R-013 ($56,183), offers the purple lacquered dial with a rose gold bracelet.

 

 

 

Watchmaker and RGM founder Roland Murphy will headline the November Horological Society of New York (HSNY) lecture at the organization’s New York headquarters on Nov. 6. with his discussion “Inside the James Arthur Collection: A Patek Philippe Grand Complication.”

The Pennsylvania-based Murphy was asked in the mid-1990s by the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) Museum to repair a Patek Philippe Grand Complication — an important timepiece in the James Arthur collection. The Association at the time was making a video and needed the repeater mechanism inside the watch to function. Additionally, photographs were taken during the repair and restoration process to give a glimpse inside the extremely rare and complicated watch.

Roland G. Murphy

Earlier this year, the 35mm negatives were shared for the first time, and during his lecture Murphy will share the scans and his experience of repairing one of the most important watches in horological history.

The lecture is free of charge (RSVP required) and takes place at the HSNY headquarters at the General Society Library, 20 West 44th Street in New York City. Click here for details and to RSVP. 

Doors open at 6 p,m. with the lecture set to begin at 7 p.m.

In addition to the wristwatches Patek Philippe is currently debuting during its the grand exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, the Geneva watchmaker is also  displaying a spectacular new collection of ‘rare handcrafts’ models, including dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches, each decorated with artisanal dial and case work inspired by Japanese culture.

In all, Patek Philippe is unveiling a collection of forty creations (eight dome clocks, five table clocks, nine pocket watches and eighteen wristwatches), all one-of-a-kind or limited-edition pieces. Each pays tribute to hand engraving, hand-executed guilloché work, gemsetting and various forms of enameling. The exhibition also presents a selection of some 190 pieces belonging to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.

Below we’ve assembled a selection of the rare handcrafts items on display at the exhibition in Tokyo until June 25.

Kyudo pocket watch with miniature painting on enamel, flinqué enamel and hand engraving.
The Japanese garden decor on the case back was hand-engraved and hand-guilloched, and then coated with translucent and opalescent enamels, a technique known as flinqué enamel.

 

The Katagami pocket watch with hand-engraving.
The case back was first hand engraved with a pattern of vertical grooves using line engraving and chased to obtain alternating matte and shining finishes suggesting textile fibers.

 

The Portrait of a Samouri is a pocket watch with case back in wood marquetry and dial in enamel.

 

Shizuoka and Mount Fuji pocket watch with cloisonné enamel, flinqué enamel and hand-engraving.

 

Opposite side of the Shizuoka and Mount Fuji pocket watch.

 

The Eagle pocket watch in cloisonné enamel, paillonné enamel and miniature painting on enamel.

 

Close-up on the dial of the Eagle pocket watch..

 

The Snow-Covered Landscape Golden Ellipse wristwatch with dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.

 

Bird on a Red Maple is a ladies’ minute repeater wristwatch with dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.

 

Hanami dome table clock in cloisonné and paillonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.
The Japanese Stamps Dome table clock in cloisonné enamel with hand-engraving.
The stamp motifs were rendered by hand with line engraving and coated with translucent brown enamels to create the effect of shadows and patina.

 

 

 

For its grand exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, which is open through June 25, Patek Philippe launches six limited editions, including a new Quadruple Complication (Reference 5308P-010) and the first World Time watch equipped with a date display synchronized with local time (Reference 5330G-010).

The new Patek Philippe self-winding Reference 5308P-010 combines a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar.

Patek Philippe also debuted a new edition of its World Time Minute Repeater (Reference 5531R-014) and ladies’ Moon Phase model (Reference 7121/200G-010). The watchmaker also added two new Calatrava models (References 6127G-010 and 7127G-010) especially made for the Japanese market. All other Special Editions will also be offered primarily in Japan, with prices on request. 

In addition to these wristwatches, Patek Philippe also created a new collection of ‘rare handcrafts’ models, including dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches, each decorated with artisanal dial and case work inspired by Japanese culture. We’ll show you these spectacular works of horological art in a second post tomorrow. 

The Minute Repeater

This Quadruple Complication (Reference 5308P-010) is a limited edition of fifteen watches and as noted above unites a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar in apertures.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5308P

Patek Philippe explains that its watchmakers were inspired by the existing Triple Complication Reference 5208 from 2011, with minute repeater, chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar. To add the split-seconds mechanism, which requires more energy to operate, watchmakers devised a new platinum mini-rotor in order to increase winding power.

 

The resulting new caliber (R CHR 27 PS QI, with 799 parts),offers two patented inventions that reduce energy consumption with regard to the clutch and the split seconds.

 

The instantaneous perpetual calendar ensures instant advance of the day, date and month disks. Patek Philippe delivers the watch with two interchangeable case backs: one in sapphire crystal adorned with the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo” and the other in solid platinum engraved with the same wording. 

The World Time Minute Repeater 

This limited edition Reference 5531R-014 will be made a a limited edition of fifteen watches.

The Ref. 5531R features a self-winding R 27 HU caliber combining a minute repeater with the World Time display.

At its center you’ll see a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel decoration representing the historic Chuo district in the center of Tokyo. The name “Tokyo” appears in red on the city disk.

 

Patek Philippe originally launched the watch in 2017 as the first minute repeater that always chimes the local time, which is displayed by a pierced hour hand in rose gold. Echoing the other minute repeater, this model is delivered with two interchangeable case backs.

World Timer Tokyo

Patek Philippe has endowed this new World Time model with a patented world first: a date display synchronized with local time (the time zone selected at the 12 o’clock position and displayed by the center hands.)

This new World Time model Reference 5330G is endowed with a patented world first date display synchronized with local time.

The watch’s plum-colored dial is embellished with a hand guilloched center while its date display is located on the beveled dial flange and indicated via a center hand in glass with a red tip. To further customize the watch, Patek Philippe has placed the name “Tokyo” in red on the city disk. Furthermore, Japan’s national emblem replaces the classic sun symbol on the 24-hour disk.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5330G, details. 

The watch is a 40mm polished white-gold model with curved two-tier fluted lugs and is worn on a strap in shiny black alligator leather with plum-colored hand stitching, secured by a fold-over clasp in white gold.

 

The sapphire-crystal back is adorned with the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo”. 

Ladies’ Moon-Phase

A year after Patek Philippe launched a new edition of this model, the watchmaker adds a special edition version (Reference 7121/200G-010) as a limited edition of 200 watches.

This model with pearly gray dial and strap is a variation on a ladies’ moon phase watch launched in 2022.

The watch’s classic round Calatrava case in white gold (diameter 33 mm) with an Officer’s style design in pearl grey with rounded flanks, straight lugs with screwed strap bars. Around the dial we see two rows of diamonds in a lace setting.

 

Inside Patek Philippe fits its excellent manual-wind caliber 215 PS LU, the smallest complicated movement made by Patek Philippe.

 

The transparent sapphire-crystal back bears the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo”. 

Two Calatrava References 

Patek Philippe created a new Calatrava case that emphasizes two-tier fluted and bezeled lugs for these two models (Ref. 6127G-010 and Ref. 7127G-010).

The men’s Reference 6127G-010, measuring 36mm in diameter, is distinguished by its light blue lacquered dial.

Launched as a pair, the watches display white gold baton-style applied hour markers and cheveu-style hands.

 

The men’s Reference 6127G-010 (diameter 36 mm) features a light-blue lacquer dial and a matching shiny alligator-leather strap.

This 31mm Calatrava 7127G features lugs inspired by Reference 5270.

The smaller model, measuring 31mm in diameter, offers a lilac colored dial. Both feature white-gold cases engraved with“Patek Philippe – Tokyo”. Inside each is a caliber 215 PS manually wound movement.

 

Patek Philippe offers them in Japan as two editions limited to 400 watches each, of which 300 are sold as a set in a double presentation box for the two watches, while 100 may be acquired separately.