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MB&F Launches M.A.D.1 Time to Love

The latest MB&F M.A.D. 1 watch, the M.A.D.1 Time to Love, is a colorful meld of technology, optimism and artistic expression.

Teaming with French artist and avant-garde designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, MB&F has infused the M.A.D.1 design with the artist’s color pallet (red, blue and yellow) as well as his trademark use of upbeat phrases and text. 

Like its three predecessors in the accessibly priced series, the M.A.D. 1 Time to Love is a 42mm titanium-cased automatic watch characterized by a dial-side rotor that spins gleefully as its wearer moves.

Hours and minutes are displayed along the side of the case with revolving hour and minute cylinders, engraved and highly visible thanks to a liberal use of SuperLumiNova. 

MB&F has taken a reliable Miyota  821A automatic movement, flipped it upside down (in a reference to MB&F’s HM3 and HM8) and added a triple-blade, titanium and tungsten rotor with unidirectional winding (which MB&F explains is essential for easy, high-speed rotation).

For this latest edition, MB&F incorporates de Castelbajac’s colors in lacquer on the three rotor blades, one of which is heavier than the others to optimize spinning. A fourth color, bright green, is seen on the piece’s case-side hour disc.

Several thoughtful quotes from the artist also provide a personal touch to the piece. These include a quote on the base of the dial (“Ce trésor rare et précieux, c’est ta vie. Le temps vole de ses ailes blanches. Tu es le gardien de ton temps”. This translates into English as: “This rare and precious treasure is your life. Time flies with its white wings. You are the guardian of your time”.

In addition, de Castelbajac’s own handwriting provides the font for the hour and minute rings, while the crown features an engraving of an angel talking to the moon, a recurring theme for the artist.

The leather strap is embroidered with the name of the watch, ‘Time to Love’, and each timepiece comes with two straps – one in black and the other in white.

As with previous M.A.D. 1 offering, MB&F will launch the new 999-piece limited edition model via an online raffle, which for this model opens today (April 3) and will be live until until April 17.

Half of the pieces will be made available for the MB&F Tribe (registered collectors of MB&F pieces) and Friends (suppliers) on a first-come, first-served basis. The rest will be available to the general public using the same raffle system as before to ensure fair distribution.

Given the strong demand of previous models, we expect this new MB&F  M.A.D.1 Time to Love to sell out quickly. 

Price: $3,600.

Artist and designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (left) with MB&F founder Maximilian Busser.
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The Watches

Chronoswiss Unveils New Strike Two Collection 

 

Chronoswiss twists its regulator display from vertical to horizontal with the all-new Strike Two Series, a limited edition collection with two dial-side bridges and a stunning hand-guilloched seconds dial.

The new Chronoswiss Strike Two H2O.

Echoing existing Chronoswiss regulator-dial watches with a vertical layout, such as its Open Gear series, the new Strike Two offers a familiar, contemporary Chronoswiss look, but with a slimmer, smaller case that places its hour subdial at the 3 o’clock position instead of at the top of the dial.

The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gears

Similarly, Chronoswiss has also rotated the seconds dial, here located at the 9 o’clock position. The primary hand, indicating minutes, remains centrally positioned as is the case with most regulator dials.

Measuring 40mm in diameter, smaller than most 42mm Open Gear models, and with a 12.7mm thickness, Strike Two’s horizontal layout is not a first for this Lucerne-based independent, which introduced the design in its Tora collection in the 1990s. 

But while the Tora series primarily featured a dual-time indicator with its 24-hour subdial, the new Strike Two is decidedly a local time affair. 

Two models

Chronoswiss offers two models in the new collection, the H2O and the Golden Gear, each released as a limited edition of one-hundred pieces.

Both are cased in steel, with the H20 model boasting a light blue CVD dial and the Golden Gear edition presenting a slate-colored satin-finished dial with gold accents.

Called Strike Two to call attention to the movement’s twin bridges, the new series also showcases the watch’s gear work, which is notably visible underneath the hour ring.

Known for its beautiful hand-guilloched craftsmanship, Chronoswiss places a sample of this artisanal expertise within the small second dial, which is beautifully finished with a floral pattern.

For Strike Two, Chronoswiss has redesigned its onion crown, creating a slightly smaller version than we’ve seen previously, and adding a flattened end cap.

Inside each watch Chronoswiss fits new Chronoswiss Manufacture Caliber C.6000, developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret and previously seen in a slightly different guise powering the revamped Chronoswiss Delphis.

The movement features a 55-hour power reserve, a ruthenium-coated finish, a tungsten rotor, radial Côtes de Genève finishing and a skeletonized gear train.

Price: CHF 9,800. 

 

Specifications: Chronoswiss Strike Two 

(References: CH-5023-BLSI (H2O) / CH-5023-ANGO (Golden Gear), Limited Edition of 100 each.) 

Case: 40mm by 12.7mm solid 17-part stainless steel case, ground and polished, polished bezel with fluted decorative ring on the side and domed, double anti-reflective sapphire crystal; screwed and satin-finished case back with sapphire crystal, onion crown, water-resistant to 3 bar, screwed strap links.

Movement: Chronoswiss manufacture caliber C. 6000 (collaboration with La Joux-Perret), automatic with skeletonized rotor made of tungsten, ball bearing; armature, escape wheel and screws polished; bridge with Geneva cut, ruthenium plated,  55-hours power reserve. 

Dial: Horizontal regulator, hour display at 3 o’clock (open gear with two vertical bridges), central minute, second at 9 o’clock, hand guilloché. SuperLumiNova indexes. Bottom level with vertical satinage (Golden Gear) or stamped and CVD-Coated (H2O).

Strap: Calfskin with alligator embossing, rubber optional. 

Price: CHF 9,800. 

 

 

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The Watches

Azimuth’s Supersonic Aircraft 

 

By Steve Huyton

Approximately twelve years ago I walked into The Hourglass, a specialist watch boutique in Sydney, and it changed my perception about horology. 

At this time there was a new wave of high contemporary brands like De Bethune, MB&F and Urwerk. These amazing labels were pushing the boundaries of watchmaking with radical designs and unusual materials. Some of their pieces were exceptionally futuristic in appearance with extraordinarily complicated mechanical movements. 

Unfortunately, the issue for the consumer was these watches (due to price point) are inaccessible to most. This is where Swiss/Singapore brand Azimuth found a niche in the market. Ultimately, Azimuth has created Avant-Garde designs at more affordable cost, and a brilliant example can be found in the newly released Land Cruiser.

The Azimuth Land Cruiser

Azimuth co-founder Chris Long says the “Land Cruiser is a testament to Azimuth’s enduring love affair between imagination and science fiction, fused into the realm of horology. It’s a rugged hovercraft with off-road capabilities that embarks on a highly classified military project to a newly formed planet 500 light years away.”

Certainly looking at the brand’s DNA this influence is highly apparent in all of its designs. Previously I wrote an article called Ode to Mr. Roboto, which chronicles the evolution of this amazing timepiece, which is inspired by 1960s toy robots. 

The Land Cruiser is a totally different entity that involved four years of fastidious research and development. Looking at the finished result the end definitely justifies the means.

The Landship 

In 2010, Azimuth launched the SP-1 Landship, its most ambitious watch to date. Inspired by a World War I military tank, the watch exudes very large proportions and has a 51mm x 44mm x 20mm titanium case. Subsequently, the brand unveiled six hand-painted replica tank versions (of the SP-1 Landship) at Krasnaya, The Watch Art Gallery in Singapore. 

Even though today’s Land Cruiser resembles the original Landship, the overall design in my opinion is far more sophisticated.

For example, the satin-brushed scaled-down case (which supersonic aircraft’s afterburner) has chiseled sides and a top-mounted crown. This makes the façade much sleeker and ergonomic on the wrist. Time is displayed by the domed wondering hour (12 o’clock position) and via a slanted retrograde minute aperture (6 o’clock position).

Powering the watch is a highly modified Swiss automatic movement supplied by Sellita. The Caliber SW200-1 comprises 26 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This exquisite Perlage finished mechanism is visibly showcased via a sapphire crystal exhibition-style window.

Caseback view of the Azimuth Land Cruiser.

Functionally the Land Cruiser features regulator hours (via a sapphire crystal dome) and retrograde minutes. The watch also is water resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of forty hours. To complete the picture, the Land Cruiser is presented on a rubber strap with a folding buckle and is housed in a special military ammo box.

The Azimuth Land Cruiser is limited to 100 pieces worldwide and retails at CHF 6,800 (approximately $7,750).

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

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The Watches

MB&F Adds Onyx to LM FlyingT

 

MB&F combines onyx with yellow gold to create the latest model in its GPHG-award-winning Legacy Machine FlyingT collection, the independent watchmaker’s series of three-dimensional watches inspired by women.

The new MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT Onyx.

The new Legacy Machine FlyingT Onyx follows previous models in the collection that have featured colorful stone dials such as malachite, tiger eye and lapis lazuli.  

Tilted to a 50-degree angle, the dial, here in polished onyx, is positioned to be primarily visible to the wearer. The dial sits adjacent to a dramatic flying tourbillon that beats at a leisurely 18,000 vph. Atop the tourbillon MB&F affixes a single large diamond that operates just shy of the top of the sapphire crystal dome.

On the back MB&F creates a rotor that looks like a three-dimensional red gold sun with sculpted rays.

The movement provides four days of power reserve. (See below for additional technical specifications).

You may recall that MB&F debuted the LM FlyingT in 2019 in three editions, all in white gold and set with diamonds. Two limited editions in red gold and platinum came next, both without diamonds but with guilloché dial plates. New gemstone dials have been added to the collection each year. The debut won the GPHG prize in 2019 in the Ladies Complication category.

“I wanted LM FlyingT to reflect the personality and qualities of the women of my family, particularly my mother,” MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser explains “It had to combine supreme elegance with tremendous vitality.”

Price: $133,000.

 

Specifications: MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT Onyx

Movement: Three-dimensional vertical architecture, automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house by MB&F, central flying 60-second tourbillon.

Power reserve: 100 hours

Balance frequency: 2.5Hz / 18,000 vph

Three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18k 5N+ red gold, titanium and platinum

Number of components: 280

Functions/indications:

Hours and minutes displayed on a 50° vertically titled dial with two serpentine hands.

Two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right.

Case: 38.5mm x 20mm yellow gold, high domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal on back.

Water resistance to 30 meters.

Strap & buckle:

Calf or alligator leather straps available with gold pin buckle matching the case.

Price: $133,000.

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The Watches

Introducing The AOS Dark Sky 1962

 

By Steve Huyton

Over the last few years, I have written several books about design and horology. This has given me a unique insight into the world of luxury. What fascinates me is overall psychology, which also creates desire, fulfillment and necessity. 

Within the watch industry brands pay millions on complicated marketing campaigns. This is also the age of the brand ambassador that, in my opinion, has been a game changer. 

Ultimately this has had a profound effect on small independents who have found themselves in a David and Goliath type scenario. The positive news is that it has stimulated sole watchmakers to create more adventurous pieces. A great example can be found in Roland Stampfli, the owner of Swiss-based AOS Watches.

Roland Stampfli

I’ve known Roland for nearly a decade and absolutely love his backstory. Essentially the brand was established to honor the legacy of his father, Arthur Oskar Stampfli. Roland’s mission is to create a beautiful range of timepieces.

The AOS Black Wind Roses.

Some of my favorites have been the ‘Black Wind Roses’ and ‘Elements‘ collections made with renowned South Australian artist Timothy John.

Examples from The Cat Edition

Just over a couple of years ago, I wrote an article for IW Magazine called AOS Feline Frenzy featuring a super cool watch called The Cat Edition. This particular model features a cool cat tattoo style illustration that is consistent with Roland Stampfli’s passions. 

New watch

Recently Roland unveiled the Dark Sky 1962 watch, a limited edition of fifteen pieces worldwide. What differentiates this timepiece from other models is the scaled-up case size.

The AOS Dark Sky 1962

Previous AOS editions have had 46mm to 47mm diameters that generally wear smaller. The Dark Sky 1962 is a true 51mm (excluding the crown) which makes a much bolder design statement.

I’m definitely in favor of these increased proportions as a lover of XL watches. Due to the use of anodized aluminum, this watch only weighs 100 grams. Ultimately this means it feels exceptionally comfortable and lightweight on the wrist.

What makes the Dark Sky 1962 so special is the brown and black screen-printed graphic dial. This perfectly complements the matte black case which is punctuated with eleven torque screws (that act as indexes).

Other delightful features include a domed sapphire crystal, skeletonized lugs and screw-down crown. Powering the watch is a Swiss-made automatic movement sourced from ETA. The Caliber 2892-2 comprises 21 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Functionally the Dark Sky 1962 features hours, minutes, seconds and a date indication at 3 o’clock. The watch is also water resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of 42 hours. As a perfect finale, the timepiece is presented on a high-quality black leather strap with a matching buckle.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

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