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Watches and Wonders 2024: Grand Seiko’s Red-Dialed Beauty 

Among the many impressive new watches Grand Seiko debuted during Watches & Wonders 2024, this red-dialed Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (SBGC275) is particularly notable.

The Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGC275

Meant to recall the sun’s terrestrial light show as it rises and sets in the Hotaka mountain range in the Shinshu region of central Japan (where Grand Seiko makes its Spring Drive watches), the distinctive dial appears to change colors with each viewing, as the ambient light itself changes.

Grand Seiko launches the watch, which joins the watchmaker’s Sport Collection, as it celebrates the 20th anniversary of the first Grand Seiko watch powered by the 9R Spring Drive movement series. 

The watchmaker explains that this dial is made possible through the use of a new dial-processing technology that involves a patented dial-coating process known as “Optical Multilayer Coating.”

“Instead of traditional techniques to color the dial, the new technology uses a physical vapor deposition process,” explains Grand Seiko’s Jon Bues. “Several layers of nanoscale film create an effect in which the dial exhibits a different hue depending on the angle of view. Combined with the silent glide motion of the seconds hand, the transitioning dial colors bring a new dimension to the idea of the nature of time.”

Set within Grand Seiko’s angular case, inspired by the shape of a lion (a Grand Seiko symbol) this newest Spring Drive Chronograph GMT offers notable claw-like, hairline-finished lugs that contrast nicely with the watch’s many Zaratsu-polished surfaces.

With curved lugs and a low center of gravity, the new watch sits comfortably
on the wrist.

The high-intensity titanium 44.5mm by 16.8mm case weights about thirty percent less than stainless steel and has a brighter color. That brightness continues amid the eye-catching red-orange with Luminous hands and markers.

Here Grand Seiko careful considers the light once again, with two colors of Lumibrite: green for the markers and the hour and minute hands and blue for the GMT hand and the numbers on the bezel. This enhances the watch’s legibility in dark conditions.

To symbolize enhanced accuracy, an 18k gold Grand Seiko lion emblem can be seen on the movement’s oscillating weight.

Inside Grand Seiko fits its excellent Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96, a specially adjusted version of Caliber 9R86. The movement delivers an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month, or ±0.5 seconds per day.

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96, a specially adjusted version of Caliber 9R86.

Grand Seiko is offering the Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (SBGC275) as a limited edition of 700, available at the Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners worldwide in July. Price: $13,400. 

Specifications: Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGC275

Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96
Driving system: Automatic
Accuracy: ±10 seconds per month (±0.5 seconds per day) Power reserve: 72 hours
GMT hand
Chronograph up to 12 hours
Number of jewels: 50
High-intensity titanium case and bracelet
Three-fold clasp with push-button release, secure lock, and extender Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating See-through screw case back
Screw-down crown
Water resistance: 20 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 44.5mm, Thickness: 16.8mm
Price: $13,400
Limited edition of 700

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The Watches

Grand Seiko Looks Ahead to Spring With Hi-Beat Debuts 

Grand Seiko drops the case diameter of its 62GS Heritage Collection offerings to 38mm for two new seasonal Hi-Beat 36000 debuts.

One, the SBGH341 “Sakura-Kakushi” (hiding cherry blossoms) features a pink dial inspired by Shunbun, which is the vernal equinox of late March.

The new Grand Seiko SBGH341 “Sakura-Kakushi”

Its colors echo the effect of snow as it covers blooming cherry blossoms of the Tohoku region.

The new Grand Seiko SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba.

The second debut, the SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba, is inspired by the Seimei season of early April with its patterned green dial that blends cherry blossom hues and the colors of young leaves.

Both offer a 38mm 62GS titanium case finished by Grand Seiko artisans to the high standards of Zaratsu polishing. Each also is attached to the wrist with a beautifully finished ‘high-intensity’ titanium bracelet secured by a three-fold clasp.

Inside each watch Grand Seiko fits its highly-touted Hi-Beat 36000 9S85 Caliber, calibrated to deliver +5 to -3 seconds of accuracy per day with an impressive fifty-five hours of power reserve.

Like all the Heritage models in this collection, you’ll find extra-strong anti-magnetic protection (to 4,800 A/m) and water resistance to 100 meters.

Price: $7,300.

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Featured News

Grand Seiko Opens NYC Flagship Boutique

Grand Seiko has opened a new Flagship Boutique in New York.

 

Located at 540 Madison Avenue, the new multi-level flagship store is the world’s largest Grand Seiko Boutique, with a full 6,100 square feet of showcase and customer space. The watchmaker invites customers to explore its extensive collection of timepieces, including its Spring Drive, mechanical, and quartz models.

 

The flagship features a contemporary design that reflects Grand Seiko’s ‘Alive in Time’ brand message,” representing its spirit and desire to push the boundaries of watchmaking.

 

The boutique’s airy and sophisticated interior captures the essence of Japanese aesthetics and culture. At the entrance and throughout the store, designs inspired by a traditional form of Japanese woodwork known as kumiko adorn the new construction.

 

The watch showcases, crafted from light-colored wood, exude Grand Seiko’s commitment to craftsmanship, precision, and distinctive Japanese quality.

 

“The United States has accelerated the growth of Grand Seiko outside of Japan, and this new boutique opens a new chapter for the brand’s further development,” said Akio Naito, President of Seiko Watch Corporation. “Being located at such a prime location, I am certain it will allow more customers and watch lovers from around the world to experience Grand Seiko’s uniquely Japanese worldview and its endless passion for perfection.”

 

The Grand Seiko Madison Avenue flagship store (540 Madison Avenue at the corner of 55th Street) is open from Monday through Saturday from 10 am to 6 pm and Sunday from 12 pm to 5 pm. 

Source: Grand Seiko 

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The Watches

Grand Seiko Enhances ‘Snowflake’ Series 

Grand Seiko adds two watches to its ‘snowflake’ series of watches known for their particularly rich white-patterned dial inspired by the pristine snow-covered landscapes of Shinshu, Japan.

The two new quartz-powered references, SBGX355 and STGF385, present the eye-catching dial pattern in different sizes and within different case materials.

One model (SBGX355, above) features a mid-sized (37mm) titanium case and bracelet while the second model (below) measures 28.9mm in diameter and features a stainless steel case, a diamond-set bezel and a steel bracelet.

On the larger model, a dual-curved sapphire crystal protects the crisp white dial. Inside Grand Seiko fits its superb quartz Caliber 9F62 that operates with an accuracy of ±10 seconds per year.

The smaller model, STGF385, is a more luxurious with a bezel set with 44 diamonds.

This is a fairly thin watch, measuring 8.8mm from top to back, and its subtle gem-set accent only enhances the snowflake dial, echoing ice atop a new snowfall. Grand Seiko’s quartz Caliber 4J52 powers the hands.

Prices:  $3,800 (SBGX355) and $5,500 (STGF385).

Specifications: 

Grand Seiko SBGX355

  • Case Material : High-intensity Titanium
  • Case Diameter : 37mm
  • Case Thickness : 10mm
  • Case Length : 44.6mm
  • Lug Width : 19mm
  • Dial Color : White
  • Crown : Push Crown
  • Strap/Bracelet : High-intensity Titanium w. three-fold clasp
  • Crystal : Dual Curve Sapphire
  • Caseback : High-intensity Titanium
  • Caliber : 9F62
  • Type : Quartz
  • Power Source : Battery
  • Jewels : 9
  • Accuracy : ± 10 seconds per year
  • Duration : 3 Year Battery
  • Features : Time, Date
  • Water Resistance : 100m
  • Magnetic Resistance : 4,800 A/m

Price: $3,800. 

 

Grand Seiko STGF385

  • Case Material : Stainless Steel w/ 44 diamonds (0.39 carat) on bezel
  • Case Diameter : 28.9mm
  • Case Thickness : 8.8mm
  • Case Length : 35.4mm
  • Lug Width : 14mm
  • Dial Color : White
  • Crown : Push Crown
  • Strap/Bracelet : Stainless Steel w. three-fold clasp
  • Crystal : Dual Curve Sapphire
  • Caseback : Stainless Steel
  • Caliber : 4J52
  • Type : Quartz
  • Power Source : Battery
  • Jewels : 7
  • Accuracy : ±10 seconds per year
  • Duration : 3 Year Battery
  • Features : Time, Date
  • Water Resistance : 100m
  • Magnetic Resistance : 4,800 A/m
  • Price: $5,500. 
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The Watches

2023 Favorites, Part I 

At the end of the year, it’s time to note our favorite 2023 debut watches. Starting today and through the end of the week, we’ll re-acquaint you with a few of our favorite timekeepers of the year. 

Starting today, we list our favorite watches in no particular order and from all price ranges.

 

Bulgari: Aluminum Chronograph

Now measuring a slightly larger 41mm in diameter, Bulgari’s Aluminum Chronograph (which won the GPHG Iconic Watch Prize in 2020) is now available in a version sporting an all-black dial, a black rubber bezel and a black rubber and aluminum bracelet. Price: $4,640.

 

 

Porsche Design: Chronograph 1 – Rennsport Reunion 7 Edition

As an enhanced edition of the famed Porsche Design Chronograph 1 from 1972, this watch retains the original’s pioneering black livery. But instead of the original’s PVD steel case, the new models are forged using a more scratch-resistant titanium carbide case. But the revived watch still enthralls with same matte black dial and 41mm case size as the original. 

For this special edition, Porsche Design engraves a ‘7’ on the strap to celebrate the seventh Porsche Rennsport Reunion. Turn the watch over to see more commemorative markings, including a platinum-colored winding rotor in the form of the RS Spyder wheel rim with a colorful Porsche Crest (used exclusively for this edition). The rotor winds the superb COSC-certified Porsche Design caliber WERK 01.140. Price: $12,500 (limited to seventy-five pieces in celebration of 75th anniversary of Porsche.) 

 

 

Oris: AquisPro 4000m 

Not only is this debut the most water-resistant diver’s watch we’ve seen from this independent Swiss manufacturer, but its also the sportiest Oris watch to include Oris Calibre 400, a superior automatic mechanical movement that boasts the aforementioned five-day power reserve, plus strong anti-magnetism and chronometric accuracy.  At 49.5mm in diameter, the watch is a wristful, but given its 4,000-meter water resistance rating, thin is out of the question. The watch’s titanium case frames an easy-to-read blue gradient dial with a seaworthy wave pattern. Oris fits a blue ceramic insert with the requisite minutes scale into the unidirectional bezel and caps off the case with a blue rubber strap. Price: $6,200.

 

 

 

Bulova: Oceanographer GMT

This nicely retro-styled model retains the look of the existing Bulova Oceanographer ‘Devil Diver’ models, but with a new GMT hand to account for a second time zone. Look for three models in the new collection. One combines brown and black tones with an IP-plated rose gold tone steel case and bracelet. 

A second steel-cased edition features a familiar red and blue GMT design often built into dive watches as well as a matching steel bracelet. The third Bulova Oceanographer GMT model (above) boasts a more monochrome look with a gunmetal IP-plated case and bezel set with a full luminous white dial. Prices: $1,295 (luminous dial and rubber strap) and $1,395 (steel bracelet).

 

 

Hublot: Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin

Hublot combined two of our favorite things (coffee and watches) into one green-hued watch when the watchmaker teamed with Nespresso to create an environmentally friendly Big Bang watch made using recycled Nespresso capsules and coffee grounds.

The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is a 42mm limited edition watch with a case, crown, bezel, and pushers made from recycled aluminum. The watch’s caseback and movement container are both made from recycled titanium. In a world first, Hublot and Nespresso have transformed used coffee grounds into watch straps. Price: $24,100.

 

 

Grand Seiko: GMT Series

Grand Seiko continues to commemorate the quarter-century anniversary of its excellent Caliber 9S mechanical movement series with a new release of two GMT watches —one sporty model and one dressy edition—each powered by a specific edition of the caliber. 

Both watches feature dials that echo the skies over Mt. Iwate, in the Iwate Prefecture in Japan, where Grand Seiko hand-assembles its watches. The sportier edition (the Sport Collection GMT Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGJ275, ) features a first for  Grand Seiko: a clear caseback on a mechanical watch with water resistance of 200 meters. 

On the front, you’ll see a sapphire blue and white rotating bezel marked to indicate three time zones. Grand Seiko fits its Hi-Beat GMT Caliber 9S86 to power the watch, providing a frequency of 36,000 vph and very stable  precision. The 2,000-piece limited edition is priced at $7,600. 

We’ll post more 2023 favorites tomorrow and through the end of this week. 

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