Grand Seiko


Grand Seiko continues to commemorate the quarter-century anniversary of its excellent Caliber 9S mechanical movement series with a new release of two GMT watches —one sporty model and one dressy edition—each powered by a specific edition of the caliber.

The new Grand Seiko Sport Collection GMT Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGJ275.

Both watches feature dials that echo the skies over Mt. Iwate, in the Iwate Prefecture in Japan, where Grand Seiko hand-assembles its watches.

One model, the Sport Collection GMT Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGJ275, underscores its artistic source of inspiration with a dial specifically meant to mimic the dense clouds at daybreak over Mt. Iwate, when humid air creates a blue and white tapestry.

Grand Seiko of course also provides a terrific view on the back of the new watch. Through the clear sapphire crystal case back you’ll see the movement’s titanium rotor, which the watchmaker has tinted light blue by using an anodic oxidation process.

The back of the sporty SBGJ275 GMT.

Not only is the back design noteworthy aesthetically and technically, it marks the first time Grand Seiko has placed a clear caseback on a mechanical watch with water resistance of 200 meters.

Back on the front, you’ll see a sapphire blue and white rotating bezel marked to indicate three time zones. Grand Seiko fits its Hi-Beat GMT Caliber 9S86 to power the watch, providing a frequency of 36,000 vph and very stable  precision. The 2,000-piece limited edition is priced at $7,600. 

Dressy model

On the dressier side of the debuts is the new Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGM253.

The new Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGM253.

This model is certainly more classical than the sporty debut, and its dial presents a more serene sunray finished blue dial depicting the sky over Mt. Iwate on a clear day.

Without the sporty bezel, this debut instead boasts a dressy mirror-finished bezel and case with curved lugs with a Zaratsu mirror finish and box-shaped sapphire crystal.

Like the sporty model, the model SBGM253 also clears a view to its movement, here a Caliber 9S66 GMT set with a titanium rotor also colored blue using the same anodic oxidation treatment as used on SBGJ275.

Caseback view of the new Grand Seiko SBGM253.

Like the sports model, the dressy debut allows for multiple timezone display, here two zones rather than three.

The movement allows the wearer to adjust the local hour hand independently while the tempered blue GMT hand can be aligned to a second time zone as indicated on the blue 24-hour scale.

A limited edition of 1,700, the watch is priced at $5,600.


Specifications: Grand Seiko Sport Collection Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGJ275 

(Limited edition of 2,000) 

Movement: Automatic Caliber 9S86, frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second) Accuracy (mean daily rate): +5 to –3 seconds per day, power reserve: 55 hours, GMT hand. Water resistance is 200 meters and magnetic resistance to 4,800 A/m.

Dial: Blue and white cloud pattern.

Case: 44.2mm by 14.8mm stainless steel, dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating See-through screw case back.

Bracelet: Three-fold clasp with push-button release.
Price: $7,600.


Specifications: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection
Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGM253 

(Limited edition of 1,700)

Movement: Automatic Caliber 9S66, frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, accuracy (mean daily rate): +5 to –3 seconds per day, power reserve: 72 hours, GMT hand.

Case: 39.5mm by 13.7mm stainless steel, box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, see-through screw case back, water resistance to 30 meters, magnetic resistance to 4,800 A/m.

Dial: Sunray blue.
Bracelet: Three-fold clasp with push-button release.
Price: $5,600 

The precision craftsmanship and materials required to created a Japanese Katana sword inspires three new U.S.-exclusive Grand Seiko watches.

Grand Seiko SBGA489 and SBGA491.

The debut trio offers a choice of stunning deep red, green or black dials, each framed in a 40mm diameter by 12.5mm stainless steel case. Each features a stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp, a dual-curve sapphire crystal and a clear sapphire case back exposing the superb Spring Drive Automatic Caliber 9R65 (see specifications below).

The new Grand Seiko SBGA493 is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Grand Seiko explains that the high-carbon steel known as kawagane used for the outer sharp edge of katana sword inspired the black dial of SBGA489 debut model. Similarly, dial artists echoed the strong inner core of the blade (the shingane) when creating the dark green dial of SBGA491.

For the limited-edition model SBGA493 with the striking red patterned dial Grand Seiko specifically references “the determination and fiery spirit needed to craft the blade.

The deep red color with yellow gold-tone accents is influenced by the heated blade during the forging process. The pattern emulates the radiating sparks created when the hammer strikes the blade.”

Grand Seiko is issuing the red-dialed edition (SBGA493) as a limited edition of 500 pieces available in September, each priced at $6,000. The black-dial model (SBGA489) and the green-dial model (SBGA491) are priced at $5,600, and both are available now.

Specifications: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 44GS USA Exclusive 

Movement: Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 Driving system: Automatic Power reserve: 72 hours Accuracy: ± 1 second per day (± 15 seconds per month).

Grand Seiko Automatic Spring Drive 3-Day Caliber 9R65.

Case: 40mm by 12.5mm stainless steel case with dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, see-through screw case back, water resistance to 100 meters and superior magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m.

Dials: Textured deep red (SBGA493), black (SBGA489) and green (SBGA491). 

Bracelet: Stainless steel with three-fold clasp and push-button release. Kimono fabric strap included with SBGA493, the limited edition model.

Prices: $6,000 (SBGA493) and $5,600 (SBGA489 and SBGA491).

A year after Grand Seiko introduced complicated and sporty models to its  Evolution 9 Collection, the watchmaker adds its first automatic chronograph to the collection.

The new Grand Seiko Tentagraph.

The new model, the Tentagraph, features Grand Seiko’s high-beat (36,000 mph) movement, Caliber 9SA5, which is enriched with two barrels and an ultra-efficient Dual Impulse Escapement. The existing GMT chronograph within Evolution 9 is powered with Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology (Caliber 9R96). 

With these technical enhancements, Grand Seiko says the Tentagraph will retain its power reserve in chronograph operating mode for seventy-two hours, which the watchmaker call the “longest power reserve in the industry today.”

Grand Seiko tests its Tentagraph movement for twenty days with a strict precision goal of +5 to -3 seconds per day.

The new 43.2mm by 15.3mm titanium-cased watch retains the eye-catching Evolution 9 textured dial finish, here colored blue. The dial’s large indexes and recessed sub-dials deliver a quick read for the wearer.

Grand Seiko also gently curves the chronograph seconds downward so that the tip of the hand is as close as possible to the dial’s markers, again enhancing legibility.

The chronograph features a running seconds sub-dial at the three o’clock position, a 30-minute chronograph counter at nine, and a 12-hour chronograph counter at six o’clock.

Grand Seiko’s own proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement efficiently transfers energy to the free-sprung balance wheel indirectly through the pallet fork and also directly from the escape wheel, enhancing the movement’s efficiency.

In addition, Grand Seiko builds a vertical clutch and a column wheel into the movement, both of which enhance accuracy and chronograph control.

On the dial Grand Seiko places its signature Mt. Iwate pattern, named for the nearby mountain visible through the windows of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi.

The Tentagraph’s bezel is made of ceramic.

The Grand Seiko will make the Tentagraph available at the Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners starting in June. Price: $13,700.  

Specifications: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph

(Ref. SLGC001) 

Movement: Caliber 9SC5
Driving system: Automatic
Frequency: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second)
Accuracy (mean daily rate): +5 to -3 seconds per day
Power reserve: 72 hours
Chronograph with 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock

Dial: Blue ‘Mt. Iwate’ pattern finish.  

Case: 43.2mm by 15.3mm high-intensity titanium, box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ceramic bezel, see-through screw-on case back, screw-down crown, water resistance to 100 meters and magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m. 

Bracelet: Three-fold titanium clasp with push button release.

Price: $13,700.


New Masterpiece

At Watches and Wonders 2023 Grand Seiko also debuted a hand-engraved, manual-wind platinum model in its Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection.

Its dial consists of the now familiar Shinshu white birch pattern, though here Grand Seiko artisans have added a slightly different tone and a more metallic texture.

Inside Grand Seiko fits its Spring Drive Caliber 9R02 (first seen in 2019). The caliber’s superb eighty-four hour power reserve is the result of a dual spring barrel in which both mainsprings are set in parallel within the single barrel. 

Grand Seiko has set an 18-karat gold plaque on the 38.5mm watch’s lower bridge engraved with the words “Micro Artist.” However, the owner can instead customize it. Price: $79,000 (limited edition of fifty).

Finally, Grand Seiko introduces a Spring Drive jewelry watch inspired by the Brand’s emblematic white lion. The watch’s case and dial gleam with 5.62 carats of diamonds and 1.25 carats of blue sapphires, all set by hand.

The sapphire crystal case back reveals a beautifully finished Caliber 9R01 movement’s one-piece bridge, designed in the image of Mt. Fuji. Price: $260,000. 

Grand Seiko debuts Spring Drive SLGA021, a new model in its fairly new (2020) nature-inspired Evolution 9 collection. 

The 40mm steel watch features a blue dial created to echo the ‘gently lapping waters’ of Lake Suwa near the Shinshu Watch Studio, where the watchmaker builds Spring Drive watches.

The new Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA021.

Not only does the dial appear to mimic waves, its color changes depending on the angle and amount of nearby lights, also echoing the experience of gazing into a lake.

As on its Evolution 9 brethren, the dial here is eminently readable. Grand Seiko cuts the hour hand at the tip and extends the minute hand right to the minute track so that the hands are more clearly differentiated than is typical on many other watches. For the same reason, Grand Seiko makes the 12 o’clock index especially wide for instant identification regardless on viewing angle.

Grand Seiko fits the watch with its excellent Caliber 9RA2 Spring Drive movement, which boasts a long power reserve of five days, or about 120 hours.

All Caliber 9RA2 Spring Drive movements are protected from magnetic fields up to an enhanced 4,800 A/m.

Price: $9,100.

Specifications: Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA021

Dial: Blue, cut with gentle-wave-shaped surface. Time and date displays. 

Case: 40mm by 11.8mm steel, screw-down crown, box-shaped sapphire crystal, sapphire caseback. Water Resistance to 100 meters and magnetic resistance to 4,800 A/m.

Movement: Spring Drive Caliber 9RA2, 5-day power reserve, automatic winding. Accuracy is ±0.5 second per day / ±10 seconds per month (average). power reserve Indicator on movement side.

Bracelet: Stainless steel, three-fold clasp.

Price: $9,100.

Grand Seiko will be donating proceeds from the Phillips New York Watch Auction: SEVEN on December 10-11 to two charities.

Grand Seiko’s Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, unique edition (Ref. SLGT001).

The profit from the sale of select modern Grand Seiko timepieces during the auction will be donated to the Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden in Miami, Florida. Its commitment to the environment perfectly aligns with the brands Nature of Time” philosophy and recognizes the importance of the natural world as a source of inspiration and creativity, according to Grand Seiko.

Funds raised from the auction of special piece-unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (Ref. SLGT001) will be donated to the Childrens Heart Foundation, a leading organization dedicated to funding congenital heart defect research. 

Unique piece

The Grand Seiko Kodo up for auction is unique in several ways when compared to the global model, reference SLGT003, which is limited to twenty pieces.

First, the multi-component case structure is made entirely of Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy, Brilliant Hard Titanium. In addition, Grand Seiko colors the bridges, mainplate, and many of the components of the movement in a plated silver color. Finally, on this unique piece Grand Seiko has hand-tempered the screws blue instead of mirror polishing them, as they are on reference SLGT003.

The top bidder will also receive a trip to Japan to meet its creators, the Grand Seiko team, and a visit to Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi in the Iwate prefecture.

The Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, introduced earlier this year, is Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication watch. It features an unusual movement that delivers high accuracy by combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the very first time in horological history. The watch is named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat.