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Scottish watchmaker AnOrdain expands its Model 2 field watch with a slightly larger case size, new typography and a new slate of dial colors inspired by nature.

The AnOrdain Model 2 Large (39.5mm), with a new Racing Green dial.

Initially launched in 2019 with a 36mm case, the AnOrdain Model 2 is the watchmaker’s classic field watch that emphasizes its highly visible dial and rigorous case.

In addition to the larger case option, this latest generation of the Model 2 also features a few small design upgrades, in part made to meet customer suggestions.

Notably, you’ll see a new minute track and a seconds hand, both of which upgrade the watch’s basic functionality. And the typography here differs from the earlier edition with the introduction of a font inspired by 1950s industrial equipment (including a laboratory clock belonging to AnOrdain founder Lewis Heath’s scientist grandfather).

Even while scaling the design to 39.5mm in diameter, AnOrdain retains the Model 2’s look with its characteristic rounded lugs, large crown protectors and broad, curving bezel curved to seamlessly mesh into the double-domed sapphire crystal.

As with all of this independent watchmaker’s designs, the Model 2 also features a customized hand design and a stunning hand-wrought dial. First, let’s take a look at the hands.

Called ‘syringe-style’, the watch’s in-house-designed hands are unusual. Each hand is characterized by a tapered void with a luminous tip that projects outward. It appears to form the shape of a hand holding a fountain pen.

“The hands were prototyped in-house before the final design was sent to a hand manufacturer in the Swiss watchmaking town of La Chaux- de-Fonds, where the blanks are made,” explains AnOrdain in its press material. “The hands are sent back in raw steel form and are heat-treated in-house to protect from rust and tarnish.”

The hands’ luminous paint, hand-applied to each tip, is another unusual feature and one rarely seen on blued steel.

Enamel dials

While much of AnOrdain’s early buzz among collectors focused, at least in part, on its eye-catching handmade fume dials, the watchmaker’s enamel dials are also notably rich for such an affordably priced collection.

Each of the Model 2’s dials is made individually by a single master enameller and can take several days to complete.

Each of the Model 2’s dials is made individually 
by a single master enameller 
and can take several days to complete. And, to further differentiate AnOrdain designs from those of other watchmakers, AnOrdain says that it purposefully veered from making a traditional white enamel color for the collection, opting for a more opaque white dial.

The new collection will also be available with new colors, including the previously mentioned opaque white, racing green, grey haar and flax (above). A haar, in case you’re not familiar with the modifier, refers to a grey fog settling off the Scottish coast and is a term particularly suitable to the Glasgow-based AnOrdain.

AnOrdain continues to fit an automatic Sellita SW210 movement into the watch, regardless of case diameter. AnOrdain will make about 200 Model 2 watches per year. Prices: £1,700 (about $2,217) for the 36mm model and £1,800 (about $2,350) for the 39.5mm model.

Specifications: AnOrdain Model 2

Dial: Vitreous enamel on copper or silver. Custom-made, heat-treated hands finished with SuperLuminova tips.

Movement: Automatic Sellita SW-210-1 with Incabloc shock protection.

Case: 36mm or 39.5mm steel with brushed or polished finish. Sapphire crystal with 6 layers of anti-reflective coating. Solid screw-in caseback with optional engraving. Fifty meters of water resistance.

Strap: Choice of strap.

Prices: £1,700 (about $2,217) for the 36mm model and £1,800 (about $2,350) for the 39.5mm model.

 

 

By Gary Girdvainis

I think it was just after the 2008 crash that the calls started coming in.

Complete strangers were calling our offices and inquiring about watches as potential instruments for investment. From their perspective it seemed to make sense. Fine timepieces have perpetual and intrinsic value, are liquid and easy to convert to cash and small enough to secret away in a bank deposit box or home safe. Some will even appreciate over time.

Bernhard Lederer’s stunning Central Impulse Chronometer.

To these speculators and investors, the watch was simply a widget and could be anything (think NFTs), a device in which to insert capital and to be added to the other elements of a portfolio.

This cold, calculating valuation of wristwatches has gained momentum over the last decade-plus and is fueling rampant and runaway pricing on several preferred models. Some of which have seen values soar to ten, fifteen or even twenty times the original retail price.

The Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti in a rose gold case.

This explosive surge has been brought on by a kind of perfect storm. First-off it could not happen without the internet. In the pre-internet era values would still climb on preferred pieces, but the forces pushing the growth were operating at a statelier pace. Watches would see price growth at auction, or via secondary sales at retail shops. The growth was not as immediately visible and volatile as the current state of viral information pathways.

The RGM Model 222-RR is a modern wristwatch with a vintage heart, featuring a Hamilton pocket watch movement and a ‘grand feu’ enamel dial.

Another factor is the fear of missing out. Buyers (note I did not say collectors) want to hop on board before the train leaves the station and are fueling the fires of desire and driving costs through the roof.

Forgive me if I feel that buying a watch purely as an investment is a sterile event without any real enthusiasm for the product, or any chance that the “investment” watches will ever see the light of day. Chances are the commoditized timepieces will sit in the dark until the next transaction, never to be enjoyed, shared, or shown-off except to confirm authenticity.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8 HF.

I’m a watch guy and have been for a long time. I appreciate the look, feel, sounds, and even smells (that vanilla scent on a nice rubber strap) that evoke pride of ownership and real enjoyment. Whether an affordable field watch with great lume, or a repeater softly chiming the time, watches are meant to be worn just like cars are meant to be driven.

I have a friend that has had amazing financial success in life. He recently invited me to his home and knowing I’m a car enthusiast was happy to show me some of the exceptional cars he had acquired over the years. One of which was the famous 1955 Jaguar D-Type. Designed for racing at LeMans and other venues, the D Type also happens to be street legal.

The Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon, now in two new designs, feature a new type of dial with tinted gold and aluminum sparkles to match either a platinum or gold case.

So as my friend sees me gaping at his exquisite machine, he tells me to look under the wheel well. I bend over, careful not to touch the coachworks, and look underneath. What I see is a spattering of mud on the wheel well liner. Not only does he drive this seven-million-dollar car, he drives it around town and even drives it to the track on vintage race days!

This post first appeared in the Winter 2022 issue of iW Magazine.

Doxa teams with Watches of Switzerland to launch the Doxa Army Watches of Switzerland Edition, a black ceramic-cased version of a matte black steel Doxa military watch from the 1960s.

The new Doxa Army Watches of Switzerland Edition.

Like that now highly collectible Doxa Army watch, the re-edition is also finished in matte black, which recalls the original model’s role as a watch designed to reduce glare during active military duty.

The original model was one of the very first watches to use a coating process (oxidation) that at the time was relatively new to the watchmaking industry.

Doxa also echoes the sand-beige dial of the original model on this re-issue, framing it with a matte black diving bezel that matches the 42.5mm by 44.5mm case. Inside Doxa fits a COSC-certified automatic Sellita movement.  

Doxa is also packaging the watch with box sporting the original camouflage pattern used by the Swiss Army at the time the watch debuted. The box includes two straps: one made from black FKM rubber and one NATO strap with a camouflage pattern.

Watches of Switzerland offers the new Doxa Army Watches of Switzerland Edition in a limited edition of 100 pieces.

We expect this nicely considered homage to Doxa’s rich military-watch history to sell very quickly, especially in light of the always active Doxa collector community.

Price: $4,500

 

Specifications: Doxa Army Watches of Switzerland Edition

(Reference 785.00.031.20)

Case: 42.5mm x 44.5mm x 11.95mm matte black ceramic, titanium chamber for the movement, sapphire crystal, unidirectional matte ceramic rotating bezel, screw-down titanium crown, threaded titanium case back, water resistance to 300 meters.

Dial: Beige with orange hour and minute hands, coated with SuperLuminova, painted outside minute track, white numerals and dot at 12 o’clock coated with SuperLuminova.

Movement: Automatic Sellita SW200-1, COSC-certified.

Strap: Black FKM rubber, color-matched with the case, folding clasp, black PVD coating, featuring Doxa fish symbol and adjustable wetsuit extension. Additional NATO camouflage strap included in the box.

Price: $4,500.

 

 

Ineichen Auctioneers will conduct its first timed auction this Saturday, April 30, with a winning bidder taking home a themed trifecta that includes a unique version of independent master watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker, a retro color-coded Porsche and an NFT artwork depicting the Joker’s ride in the Porsche into a Gotham City night skyline. Five percent of the proceeds of the sale will be donated to UNICEF to benefit Ukrainian children affected by the war.

The auction is the latest in a series of Ineichen auctions that create a tightly unified theme as a basis for an online or live event. Most recently, Ineichen conducted “Precious Blues” and “La Vie en Rose,”each of which featured a curated selection of watches with, respectively, blue details and rose gold cases.

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker XXX, is at the center of the April 30 Ineichen auction.

The Watch

Called Joker XXX, the watch at the center of the April 30 auction is a customized edition of Chaykin’s complex and entertaining Joker, which debuted in 2017 during Baselworld as a 99-piece limited edition. Chaykin sold all 99 pieces by the end of the fair that year.

To directly link itself to the Porsche, the watch features pad-printed red hands that together recall the car’s gauges. The 42mm steel case has a black PVD-coating while its caseback displays the image featured in the NFT artwork that will accompany the lot.

You might recall that the watch’s Joker face tells time with its eyes, which are the watch’s hour and minutes indicators. The Joker’s mouth doubles as the watch’s moonphase indicator while the crown and a left-side pusher become the Joker’s ears. Chaykin adds even more detail for the face, creating guilloché on the dial to mimic the Joker’s skin. On the bezel you’ll find engravings of the initial “J” and symbols of the four playing card suits.

The Porsche

Restored by car influencer and tuner Aleksandr Markovsky, the Porsche (above) included in the auction is a 1986 Porsche 911 G-model Carrera Turbo-look. Markovsky refurbished the interior with green nappa leather and a square-patterned purple-and-green textile, colors associated with the Joker character, and added ‘Outlaw’ wheels and the Joker sign at the back of the car. He also restored the gearbox and installed more than 800 new parts.

The NFT

Last year, Zurich-based Ineichen sold the world’s most-expensive NFT token for a watch when it auctioned a different Joker NFT for CHF 52,080.

“As this is the first timed auction for Ineichen and the first to be executed on our in-house platform, the Konstantin Chaykin Joker XXX Unique Piece is a crucially important event,” says says Artemy Lechbinskiy, CEO, Ineichen Auctioneers. “It is very exciting to have the support of our dear friends, Konstantin and Aleksandr, in making it happen!”

The event on April 30 in Zurich will be the first time Ineichen Auctioneers presents an NFT (pictured above) directly to its new owner. Guests will also be able to view the watch and car and meet their creators. Ineichen will launch its new app, which will serve as a bidding platform.

Bids can be placed on the website and in the app and may also be registered prior to the live event via telephone: +41 44 298 11 44 or mail: [email protected].

Estimated starting price for the auction: $107,000.

 

Echoing power meters typical found on hi-fi amplifiers, the dial of the new Reservoir Sonomaster Chronograph displays not only an unusual bi-retrograde seconds/date display, but also the Franco-Swiss watchmaker’s debut chronograph.

The Reservoir Sonomaster Chronograph is the watchmaker’s first chronograph and the its first time display with hour and minute hands.

Reservoir teams with Swiss custom movement maker La Joux-Perret to create the new 43mm steel watch’s movement, new automatic caliber RSV-Bi120, a manufacture bi-retrograde chronograph with column wheel.

Well-known for its dashboard-inspired jump-hour watches, Reservoir veers from that digital-hour formula on the Sonomaster Chronograph with another first for the brand: a traditional two-hand hour and minutes display.

And underneath those two hands (and a red-tipped chronograph seconds hand) you’ll find the two other displays not found on other Reservoir watches: traditional 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters.

Still, it’s the unusually large fan-shaped indicators that set this watch apart from other retrograde models. The wearer will check the dial on the left to eye retrograde seconds with a scale marked 0-30. The thin hand flies back every half-minute. The date display on the right is marked 0-31, with a retrograde fly-back return at the end of the month.

Thin lines

While the Sonomaster Chronograph directly references the VU meters found throughout the broadcast industry, Reservoir notes that the form, a slim needle pivoting against a scale drawn in an arc or a straight line, is also reminiscent of horizontal speedometers found in American cars of the 1950s and 1960s.

Both types of meters included a so-called ‘red line’ that warned of high levels of decibels or watts or a dangerously high RPM on a dashboard.

On the Sonomaster Chronograph, Reservoir further references broadcast instruments with a brushed finish crown inspired by amplifier control buttons. The pusher shapes are inspired by bass and treble buttons.

Reservoir treats all the watch’s hands with SuperLuminova and also opening the caseback to reveal the automatic movement with column wheel.

Price: $6,100.

 

Specifications: Reservoir Sonomaster Chronograph

(Ref. RSV04.SN/136.BL (Black & Beige)

Case: 43mm stainless steel with brushed finish, domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 50 meters, clear case-back,

Dial: Black & beige, hands with SuperLuminova, tachymeter bezel.

Movement: Caliber RSV-Bi120 manufacture bi-retrograde chronograph movement, automatic mechanical winding and column wheel (base LJP-L1C0), 60 hours power reserve, 28,800 vph frequency.

Displays: Chronograph (central second, 30-minute counter at 12, hour counter at 6), bi-retrograde date and seconds (120°), hour, minute hands.

Bracelet: Black leather strap with white stitching, steel butterfly clasp. Price: $6,100.