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Patek Philippe Pumps Up Chime Volume

Patek Philippe underscores its reputation as the source for the finest minute repeaters with a new model, the Ref. 5750 Advanced Research Minute Repeater, an extra-loud chiming wristwatch that utilizes a new sound amplification system.

Patek Philippe will make fifteen 40mm platinum-cased Ref. 5750 Advanced Research Minute Repeater watches.

The Geneva watchmaker says its new watch delivers dulcet time-telling tones that can be heard up to 180 feet away from the wearer’s wrist.

Patek Philippe’s new system, dubbed ‘Fortissimo ff,” consists of a sound lever, or metallic ‘blade,’ that oscillates a sapphire crystal wafer located on the back of the watch. Patek Philippe’s Advanced Research arm has spent several years developing the Fortissimo ff and will place it into fifteen 40mm platinum-cased Ref. 5750 Advanced Research Minute Repeater watches.

The watchmaker says its new system, for which Patek Philippe registered three patents, essentially builds a novel pathway for the sound to reach the wearer’s ears. The hammers on the new model, built directly from the design of Patek Philippe’s famed caliber R 27 PS (from 1989), strike in a traditional manner on a titanium ring. Then the new ‘Fortissimo ff’ module takes over to amplify the tones.

The new design transmits the gong oscillations to the sapphire wafer, which, unlike a traditional repeater, is not connected to the case and vibrates on its own. This effectively amplifies the sound, sending it out through four openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock in the titanium ring. A dust filter protects the movement.

As noted, the resulting chimes can be heard up to 180 feet away from the watch, according to Patek Philippe. Traditional repeaters become difficult to hear approximately when listening thirty feet from the watch.

Platinum case and components

Since the sound waves created using the new ‘Fortissimo ff’ technology never touch the watch’s case, the case metal for the watch does not affect the sound.

However, Patek Philippe did make several metal changes to the movement design when compared to the slide-activated Ref. 5178 minute repeater, which served as the inspiration for the new Ref. 5750.

A mini-rotor in platinum replaces the original model found on the Cal. R27. With its greater material density, the platinum version delivers the same winding power but with a thinner design.

The watchmaker replaced the steel hammers found on the Ref. 5178 minute repeater with platinum hammers, which produce a softer strike. Furthermore, a mini-rotor in platinum replaces the original model’s gold rotor. With its greater material density, the platinum version delivers the same winding power but with a thinner design.

Contemporary dial

Patek Philippe tops its new watch with an openworked dial of contemporary design that differs considerably from the watchmaker’s generally classical minute repeater dials.

The watchmaker says spoked wheels of 1960s automobiles inspired the watch’s skeletonized dial. The primary dial is inset with a seconds subdial with a similar pattern. And in another break from Patek Philippe tradition, the seconds dial indicates seconds using a rotating disc rather than a traditional hand.

The watch is set with a shiny orange alligator strap with black seams and a platinum fold-over clasp. Patek Philippe will make fifteen platinum-cased Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” minute repeaters. Price upon request.

For additional technical details and several excellent videos about the Patek Philippe Ref. 5750 Advanced Research Minute Repeater, click here.

 

Technical Chronology

Below we list the technical achievements of Patek Philippe Advanced Research division since its first results in 2005.

2005: Silinvar, a novel, patented material based on monocrystalline silicon. It was developed in collaboration with Rolex, the Swatch Group, and CSEM in Neuchâtel, and is suitable for applications in watchmaking. Also in 2005: First escape wheel in Silinvar. This new part improves dependability because it requires no lubricants. It also reduces the mass to be moved (better efficiency), is corrosion-resistant, and remains perfectly concentric.

2006: Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar, which optimized rate accuracy by improved isochronism thanks to concentric breathing (expansion and contraction) of the balance spring.

2008: Pulsomax escapement in Silinvar, which optimized geometry of escape wheel and lever and increased energy efficiency by 15%.

2011: Oscillomax ensemble (Pulsomax escapement with GyromaxSi balance and Spiromax balance spring)
.

2017: Optimized Spiromax balance spring. Also, correctors with compliant mechanism in steel. This utilizes the elasticity of materials in microstructures and replaces articulations with pivots and leaf springs. This technical development offers numerous advantages: simplified assembly (12 parts as opposed to 37 previously), flatter design, no mechanical play, no friction, no arbor wear, which results in totally lubricant-free functionality and excellent energy efficiency.

Source: Patek Philippe

 

 

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The Watches

Girard-Perregaux Creates Enamel “Eternity’ Editions

Girard-Perregaux updates its sporty steel Laureato with two grand feu enamel dials to create the Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition.

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition, showing green grand feu enamel dial.

The new glossy blue and green dial colors nicely complement the Laureato’s signature brushed and polished steel case and bracelet, a combination new for Girard-Perregaux when it debuted the first Laureato collection in 1975. At the time, integrated steel bracelet watches were novel among luxury watchmakers.

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition, blue enamel dial model.

The new Laureato 42mm Eternity Edition joins other Eternity models, including those within the brand’s La Esmeralda Tourbillon and Cat’s Eye collections. All the new Eternity models are meant to celebrate Girard-Perregaux’s 230th anniversary.

The Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition, which will be sold in seven different color enamel dials.

“With our Eternity Editions, much like the Infinity Editions that preceded them in 2020, we wanted to produce a limited number of watches that showcase our expertise for the enjoyment of generations to come,’ says Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux.

The Girard-Perregaux Cat’s Eye Eternity Edition.

Girard-Perregaux makes the grand feu enamel dials at its in-house facility using a time-honored high-temperature firing process. Artisans mix metallic powders that they then dust onto the dial and fire in an 800-degree Celsius oven. This process is repeated up to ten times to achieve the desired glossy appearance.

Girard-Perregaux explains that flawless grand feu enamel dials will look new and brilliant for generations, hence their use for the new Eternity Editions.

The watchmaker’s artisans add a final guilloché sunray motif to the new dials to enhance its brilliance when seen in light. Note that the watch’s date display features white numerals on a dial-color disc, a feature that Girard-Perregaux says follows long-time “horological etiquette.”

Inside, the watchmaker places its excellent GP01800 automatic caliber with a pink gold oscillating weight and Côtes de Genève on the bridges. The movement also shines with hand-beveled edges, mirror-polished screws, circular graining on the main plate and engraved gilded text.

The Girard-Perregaux is making 188 of each of the blue or green-dialed Laureato 42mm Eternity Editions. Middle East retailer Seddiqi will sell both versions during December. After January 1, 2022, Girard-Perregaux will offer the watches globally through its retailers and on its e-commerce site. Price: CHF 13,460.

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Alpina

Alpina Reboots Bumper Movement

Alpina has updated a bygone mechanical caliber design to launch its Startimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture with a ‘bumper’ rotor that pings back and forth, rotating 330 degrees instead of the 360-degree modern standard for automatic movements.

The new Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture, with a movement utilizing a ‘bumper’ oscillating weight.

A version of this type of to-and-fro oscillating ‘bumper’ weight was used in many early automatic Swiss watches starting from the late 1920s into the 1960s and could be found installed into watches from Omega, Universal Genève, Jaeger-LeCoultre–and Alpina.

Alpina made this ‘bumper’ caliber in the 1950s.

The new Caliber AL-709 on this new Alpina watch, which is visible through the clear sapphire caseback, mimics the watchmaker’s own vintage ‘bumper’ movement from the 1950s.

According to Alpina, the two calibers share “the same geometry and the same inspiration.” However, while the vintage version rotates 120°, the new one rotates 330°. In addition, Alpina has replaced the springs used in the vintage designs with more efficient blades.

Alpina has placed its retro-bumper caliber into an existing 42mm steel cushion-shaped case from its Startimer Pilot Heritage collection.

The case nicely combines a circle in a square with rounded edges. A smartly satin-brushed and polished case middle further emphasizes the case’s dual geometry, which to my eye feels more inspired by watches from the 1970s than from those made in the 1950s.

A view of the AL-709 automatic movement, with a ‘bumper’ rotor.

Alpina has built its AL-709 caliber with an extended diameter that reaches to the edge of the round inner caseback, in part to underscore the watch’s Heritage message.

The dial also adds to the vintage look with its 1950s style cues, notably the three matching hands.  Alpina also wisely places the watch’s crown at 4 o’clock, which enhances the case’s cushion profile. The 42mm case size and the sporty red accents add a contemporary edge.

Alpina is limiting the new Startimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture to 188 pieces, each with a brown calfskin strap with off-white topstitching. Price: $2,850.

Specifications: Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture

(Ref. AL-709SR4SH6, Limited edition of 188)

Movement: Automatic AL-709 Manufacture caliber, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 alt/h.

Case: 42mm by 13.25mm brushed and polished stainless steel, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, see-through case back, water-resistant to 100 meters.

Dial: Silver color with vertical brushed finishing, black minutes and seconds graduation, silver color indexes and hands with red luminous treatment.

Bracelet: Brown calf leather strap with off-white stitching.

Price: $2,850.

 

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The Watches

On the Glow with Romago Swiss

By Steve Huyton

It seems incredible that when I visited Baselworld in 2015 the world was a completely different place. At the time there were no restrictions and it was easy to travel freely. On my trip to Switzerland, I took the opportunity to visit a couple of factories at La Chaux-de-Fonds in the canton of Neuchâtel.

At this stage, I had just produced my first watch called ‘Polaris’ and was looking at unusual materials for future creations. One of the companies I visited specialized in carbon fiber and was experimenting with different colors and finishes. Probably one of the most unusual options was a luminous carbon that glowed in the dark.

Due to cost and availability, I decided to opt for different alternatives. However, I was interested to discover Romago Swiss has used this amazing composite in their distinctive LuminFusion Carbon Sand.

The Romago LuminFusion Carbon Sand.

Carbon in watches

A few years ago, only high-end watch brands like Audemars Piguet, Hublot and Richard Mille were experimenting with carbon composites. Even though these timepieces are exceptionally well designed, they are beyond the realms of most buyers due to price points. Fortunately, carbon composites are a lot more accessible and affordable today. There is also a lot more variety.

Previously, I reviewed the red Romago Super Carbon X, which is a really cool watch for the money. However, I feel the watchmaker’s LuminFusion Carbon Sand is a lot more sophisticated and illustrates how Romago Swiss has matured.

The LuminFusion Carbon Sand is very well proportioned and has a 46.5mm x 46.5mm x 15.9mm square case. It would be fair to say this watch has a similar appearance to some of the carbon fiber models Bell & Ross creates. For example, the watches are a similar size and are very striking in appearance.

The Romago LuminFusion Carbon Sand glows in the dark with green luminescence. Romago blends luminous material with the carbon fiber case.

However, the LuminFusion Carbon Sand has a more industrial façade. I also love the fact Romago has equipped this model with a revolving-rotor-style dial with an enchanting caricatured face. This feature allows the recipient a discreet view of the skeletonized movement.

Essentially the theme was to create a mysterious watch that changes appearance at the fall of night. Certainly, the luminous carbon case, bezel and dial are pretty mesmerizing.

At the heart of the watch is a customized Swiss self-winding Calibre SW200 mechanical movement from Sellita, which oscillates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Functionally the LuminFusion Carbon Sand features hours, minutes and seconds.

The watch also is water-resistant to a depth of fifty meters and has a power reserve of thirty-six hours. As a perfect final touch, the timepiece has a high-quality black rubber injection-molded strap inscribed with the name ‘ROMAGO’.

Price: $4,780.

The Romago LuminFusion Carbon also come in white with blue luminescence.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

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The Watches

Franck Muller’s USA Limited Edition Bill Auberlen Vanguard Races to Stores

The seconds indicator on the new Franck Muller USA limited edition Vanguard Racing Skeleton Bill Auberlen starts with double zero at the bottom of the dial, not at the top. This layout, while rare on a watch dial, allows seconds to be read from both ends of the seconds hand and echoes the dashboard Auberlen would see while piloting his racecar.

Vanguard Racing Skeleton USA Limited Edition, here cased in the Technologie Bleu composite.

The dial layout is just one of many racer-friendly details that Franck Muller built into the sporty automatic watch, which was announced earlier this year and is reaching Franck Muller boutiques and its U.S. retailers now.

Another example can be found in Franck Muller’s choice of case materials for the tonneau-shaped 44mm by 53.7mm Vanguard watch.

The watch is the latest Franck Muller model built with Auberlen’s direct input. One of America’s most successful racecar drivers, the BMW racing driver Auberlen has won sixty-three races.

Three versions

One version of the watch is built with carbon, the same ultra-light, high-performance material racecar makers utilize. Another version features an unusual blue-tinged high-tech composite called Technologie Bleu, which the watchmaker says is created by mixing ‘high purity metals and other exotic elements.’

This non-conductive, non-metallic material is made using a process called the Micelle Phenomenon. Once the case is formed, Franck Muller cuts, carves, grinds and sands the material to a durable, gem-quality finish.

Additional sporty touches on the Vanguard Racing Skeleton Bill Auberlen include a generous use of racing red dial details across the skeletonized dial. The watchmakers at Franck Muller also attach a strap composed of Alcantara-like suede, reminiscent of a sports car interior, and lined with rubber. Instead of attaching the strap to the case using the usual spring bar technique, Franck Muller subtly integrates the strap into the case with two invisible screws.

In another unusual detail, Franck Muller has skeletonized the numerals visible on the date wheel to match the open-worked dial.

Franck Muller offers its Vanguard Racing Skeleton Bill Auberlen in three case materials: rose gold ($34,000), carbon ($27,400) and macro molecular Technologie Bleu ($26,200).

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