Tag

automatic watch

Browsing

Frederique Constant’s partnership with Austin-Healey has produced many of the Geneva watchmaker’s most fetching watches, with most featuring British racing green somewhere on the dial.

The new Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph Automatic.

Fortunately, this year’s debuts are no exception. But for 2022, which happens to be the 70th anniversary of Austin-Healey, Frederique Constant offers a twist with the debut of two Healey limited editions.

This year Frederique Constant will make two versions of a new Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph Automatic. The watch, with bi-compax dial and two racing red hands, will be made with one non-U.S. version limited to ten watches while a second will be made as a 700-piece limited edition.

The difference between the two is a simple numeral swap: On the ten-piece limited model the watchmaker references Austin Healey’s 70th anniversary by replacing the numeral 12 with the numeral 70 at the top of the dial. The 700-piece edition features the 12 in its traditional location, with “70th Anniversary” text at 6 o’clock.

Both watches are 42mm steel chronographs powered by the watchmaker’s Sellita-based FC-397 automatic caliber, visible via sapphire caseback. The dial here is one of this watchmaker’s finest thanks in part to its British Racing Green hue, red chronograph hands and the Healey logo in its original font.

The classic bi-compax dial offers a seconds counter on the left and the chronograph’s minutes counter on the right. The two chronograph hands are easy to read in their bright red hue with the central hand for the seconds and the 30-minutes countdown hand at the three o’clock position.

Frederique Constant provides an asphalt black strap finished with two lines of topstitching said to mimic the two white lines marking the edges of a racetrack.

The new Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph Automatic comes in its dedicated gift box alongside a miniature replica of the famous Austin-Healey 100S, number plate NOJ393.

Price: $3,195.

Specifications: Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph Automatic

(Ref. FC-397HDGR5B6, a limited edition of 700)

Movement: FC-397 caliber (Sellita-base), automatic
 48-hour power reserve, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph.

Case: 42mm
by 14.45 mm polished stainless steel (3-part) with scratch-resistant convex sapphire crystal and case back. Water-resistant to 50 meters.

Dial: Dark green with matte finishing, white graduation printed on inner ring and outer ring, applied silver color indexes filled with white luminous treatment, Arabic number 12, Healey 70th anniversary logo at 6 o’clock, silver color hour and minute hands filled with white luminous treatment, red chronograph seconds hand,
chronograph’s minutes counter at 3 o’clock with red hand,
60 seconds counter at 9 o’clock with silver color hand.

Bracelet: Black calf leather strap with off-white stitching.

Price: $3,195.

 

 

 

Oris revives its Full Steel Worldtimer with the new Hölstein Edition 2022, a dual-time watch with the original model’s quick-change pushers and instant date-change feature.

The new Oris Hölstein Edition 2022

Considered a ground-breaker when it debuted in 1998, the original Oris Full Steel Worldtimer featured Oris Caliber 690, an unusual dual-time movement that allowed the wearer to press one of two buttons to adjust the local time in one-hour jumps either forwards or backwards, with home time shown on a counter at 3 o’clock. The date display would also change as the time passed midnight in either direction.

The new Oris Hölstein Edition 2022 (limited to 250
 pieces) revives Caliber 690 and fits it within a steel case that echoes the original. The new watch also includes the same three-
link stainless steel bracelet, blue dial and red plus and minus symbols. Oris says the revival debut in 2022 is meant to celebrate Oris’s 118th anniversary.

“The Full Steel Worldtimer was always one of my favorite watches, long before I worked at Oris, and I think it’s a much underrated design,” says Oris Co-CEO Rolf Studer.

“ I also love the movement – a watchmaking landmark. Until Calibre 110 in 2014, Calibre 690 was our most complicated movement, which is a special legacy. In 
the true Oris sense, it’s functional, useful, beautiful and only mechanical. And there’s something about the Full Steel that captures the experimental spirit of 1990s designs,” he adds.

 

Oris will deliver the limited edition watch in a special wooden presentation box. Price: $4,300.

 

Specifications: Oris Holstein Edition 2022

Movement: A
utomatic Oris 690 (ETA-based) dual-time with 
bi-directional red rotor. Center hands for hours and minutes with forward or backward one-hour setting device, small seconds at 9 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock, home time hour and minute hands with day/night indicator at 3 o’clock, instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second. Power reserve 38 hours.

Case: 36.50 mm multi-piece stainless steel, flat sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating inside, 
caseback stainless steel, screwed with special engravings. Stainless steel screw-in security crown and pushers, water resistant to fifty meters.

Dial: Blue 
luminous material indices, numbers and hands with SuperLuminova.

Bracelet: Multi-piece stainless steel with folding clasp.

Price: $4,300.

Bell & Ross adds a colorful new model to its Flight Instruments collection. The new BR 03-92 Radiocompass is the latest model in the series, which Bell & Ross debuted in 2010 to display time through the lens of cockpit tool designs and layouts.

The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Radiocompass.

Named to echo the on-board radio receiver that defines the position and direction of an aircraft via beacons on the ground, the BR 03-92 Radiocompass offers the wearer a matte black dial with three primary indications. Its innermost dial circle features the hour numerals, which are surrounded by the minute indexes. On the flange you’ll find the seconds numerals.

All the numerals here are turned towards the center of the dial just as they are on a navigation instrument. Their ‘isonorm’ typography is a technical typeface used within the navigation instrument industry.

At the top of the dial you’ll see a white triangle, an aviation cockpit fixture.

Unusual hands

Bell & Ross has spent a considerable amount of effort to create unique hands for this new watch.

Influenced by Pop Art, the hands are brightly colored to heighten readability and each is shaped to clearly associate itself to a specific time indication. The largest hand indicates the hours and is painted orange with an H at its tip. The long baton minute hand is fit with an M just below its tip, and the thin seconds hand is painted green.

Bell & Ross also plays with the watch’s SuperLuminova accents. At night, the luminescent indexes take on blue tones as the minutes appear green. The hour hand first turns yellow and then ends its luminescence in green.

This 42mm by 10.4mm matte black ceramic watch is water resistant to 200 meters and is powered by an ETA-based automatic BR-CAL302 caliber.

Previous watches in the Bell & Ross Flight Instruments collection include:

–The BR 01 Radar (2010), which inaugurated Bell & Ross’s rotating disc display.

— BR 01 Red Radar (2011), and avant-garde dial that reproduces the sweeping light beam of an air traffic control radar.

— The HUD (Head Up Display) from 2020, which combined rotating discs and analog hands.

Bell & Ross will make the BR 03-92 Radiocompass as a limited edition of 999 pieces. Price: $4,100.

 

 

By Gary Girdvainis

Louis Moinet’s Time to Race mono-pusher chronograph is not actually a limited edition, but rather a series of 299 unique pieces. Collectors will pick from the three racing liveries (Rosso Corsa, Racing Green or French blue) then pick a single- or double-digit numeral; their “lucky number.”

The three color options of
Louis Moinet’s Time to Race mono-pusher chronograph.

Once assembled into the 40.7mm titanium cases, each example will be the one and only combination of that color and numeral.

That number is painted in black on a white background with a glossy polished finish, and surrounded by a metal ring reminiscent of the bores used in racing cars.

Each dial reveals a beautifully finished chronograph mechanism with a highly domed crystal emphasizing the components.

This new style direction from Louis Moinet is a chronograph showing a modern flair with design roots inspired by the world’s first chronograph, which was produced by Louis Moinet in 1816.

The Louis Moinet Time To Race features an automatic winding, column-wheel chronograph movement in a display that clearly emphasizes the chronograph as the prominent feature for this watch. Price: $36,000.

 

The new Shinola Monster GMT, this Detroit-based watchmaker’s first automatic GMT model, makes tracking time in multiple time zones simple and pleasing thanks to a particularly handsome blue dial and blue bezel.

The new Shinola Monster GMT is the Detroit-based watchmaker’s first automatic GMT model.

Starting with its ‘diver down’ flag at 12 o’clock, and over to the large calendar aperture at 3 o’clock, this nicely proportioned navy blue dial is a pleasure to eye. Shinola then enhances that visual pleasure by offering the option to swap the steel quick-release bracelet with a patterned blue strap made from recycled ocean bound plastic.

The watch is especially attractive to those with smaller wrists or collectors who prefer sporty watches with moderate case diameters. This new model at 40mm is smaller than other models in Shinola’s impressive Monster series, which measure 43mm and 45mm. 

You’ll find the requisite 24-hour markers needed to track time in another timezone plainly positioned along a navy-blue ceramic bezel insert.

The independently set blue and orange-tipped GMT hand, which rotates once a day, allows you to check that second timezone quickly.

Inside Shinola fits a Sellita automatic movement with a solid 56-hour power reserve. The movement, protected with 100 meters of water resistance, is visible through the watch’s fully open caseback.

Price: $1,995.