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Introducing The AOS Dark Sky 1962

 

By Steve Huyton

Over the last few years, I have written several books about design and horology. This has given me a unique insight into the world of luxury. What fascinates me is overall psychology, which also creates desire, fulfillment and necessity. 

Within the watch industry brands pay millions on complicated marketing campaigns. This is also the age of the brand ambassador that, in my opinion, has been a game changer. 

Ultimately this has had a profound effect on small independents who have found themselves in a David and Goliath type scenario. The positive news is that it has stimulated sole watchmakers to create more adventurous pieces. A great example can be found in Roland Stampfli, the owner of Swiss-based AOS Watches.

Roland Stampfli

I’ve known Roland for nearly a decade and absolutely love his backstory. Essentially the brand was established to honor the legacy of his father, Arthur Oskar Stampfli. Roland’s mission is to create a beautiful range of timepieces.

The AOS Black Wind Roses.

Some of my favorites have been the ‘Black Wind Roses’ and ‘Elements‘ collections made with renowned South Australian artist Timothy John.

Examples from The Cat Edition

Just over a couple of years ago, I wrote an article for IW Magazine called AOS Feline Frenzy featuring a super cool watch called The Cat Edition. This particular model features a cool cat tattoo style illustration that is consistent with Roland Stampfli’s passions. 

New watch

Recently Roland unveiled the Dark Sky 1962 watch, a limited edition of fifteen pieces worldwide. What differentiates this timepiece from other models is the scaled-up case size.

The AOS Dark Sky 1962

Previous AOS editions have had 46mm to 47mm diameters that generally wear smaller. The Dark Sky 1962 is a true 51mm (excluding the crown) which makes a much bolder design statement.

I’m definitely in favor of these increased proportions as a lover of XL watches. Due to the use of anodized aluminum, this watch only weighs 100 grams. Ultimately this means it feels exceptionally comfortable and lightweight on the wrist.

What makes the Dark Sky 1962 so special is the brown and black screen-printed graphic dial. This perfectly complements the matte black case which is punctuated with eleven torque screws (that act as indexes).

Other delightful features include a domed sapphire crystal, skeletonized lugs and screw-down crown. Powering the watch is a Swiss-made automatic movement sourced from ETA. The Caliber 2892-2 comprises 21 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Functionally the Dark Sky 1962 features hours, minutes, seconds and a date indication at 3 o’clock. The watch is also water resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of 42 hours. As a perfect finale, the timepiece is presented on a high-quality black leather strap with a matching buckle.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

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The Watches

Girard-Perregaux Launches a Titanium Laureato Chronograph 

 

Girard-Perregaux adds titanium to its Laureato collection with the new Laureato Chronograph Ti49, a 42mm model that echoes the original 1975 Laureato design, complete with its octagonal bezel, round frame and tonneau-shaped case.

The new Girard-Perregaux the new Laureato Chronograph Ti49.

As the first new-generation Laureato Chronograph with a titanium-case, the new watch exhibits its light reflection and refraction with a material that differs in both weight and appearance from the steel models.

The Grade 5 titanium used here is composed of almost 90% titanium, 6% aluminum, 4% vanadium and small traces of iron and oxygen, which means it is lighter than steel while remaining strong, corrosion resistant, non-magnetic and hypoallergenic.

Girard-Perregaux nicely accentuates the grey monochrome of the titanium alloy with contrasting finishes of brushed and polished angles, all of which re-define the chronograph’s look on the wrist when compared with the steel models. Here, Girard-Perregaux polishes the circular plinth beneath the bezel, the case edges, the chronograph pushers and the central bracelet links.

On the dial the watchmaker also perfectly complements the grey platinum tone with a grey dial finished using the deep Clous de Paris pattern well known to fans of the brand. Grey PVD-treated hour and minute hands and matching baton-type indexes (with white luminescent material) top the dial.

In addition to the chronograph counters, the dial also features the GP logo and name, a minute track and white markers that circle the counters.

Inside the watch Girard-Perregaux fits its superb Manufacture Caliber GP03300 (above), an automatic movement nicely decorated with the high-end finishing expected from this high-end watchmaker.

These finishes include Côtes de Genève in circular and straight form, circular graining, satin finish, chamfering, mirror polishing, snailing, engravings, sunray finishing and blued steel screws.

Price: $19,400. 

 

Specifications: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

(Reference 81020-21-3263-1CM) 

Case:

Material: titanium, polished and satin finished

Dimensions: 42.00 mm

Height: 12.00 mm

Glass: anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Case-back: secured by 6 screws

Dial: grey with a ‘Clous de Paris’ pattern, grey PVD-treated GP logo, ‘baton’-type grey PVD-treated indexes with luminescent material (white emission)

Hands: ‘baton’ type grey PVD-treated hands with luminescent material (white emission)

Water resistance: 100 meters

Movement:

Reference: GP03300-0141

Self-winding mechanical movement

Diameter: 25.95 mm (111/2’’’)

Height: 6.50 mm

Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4 Hz)

Number of components: 419

Number of jewels: 63

Power reserve: min. 46 hours

Functions: Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date

Bracelet: titanium, polished and satin finished

Price: $19,400.

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The Watches

Bulova Enhances Surveyor Series  

Bulova adds two new value-priced automatic models to its classic Surveyor collection, a series that offers a contemporary sculpted-edged case.

One of the new 39mm Bulova Surveyor models, available in three dial options.

All sporting a new 39mm case size, one new Surveyor model offers three sunburst-finished dial options: pistachio green, dark green or burgundy.

Bulova fits the two green models on a quick-release brown leather strap or a matching quick-release three-link stainless steel bracelet.

The burgundy dialed Surveyor, with rose-gold-hued markers, hands and crown, is also fit with a quick-release three-link stainless steel bracelet.

All Surveyor models include luminescent minute markers and a magnified date display. Inside Bulova places an automatic movement with date. Prices: $425 to $475.

If you’re in the market for something with a more luxurious feel, Bulova’s newest Surveyor Heartbeat Automatic might tick your boxes.

With a sculpted Surveyor case, the new watch amps up the watch’s higher-end profile with gold-coloring on the case and on the three-link bracelet. Its Heartbeat dial exposes a portion of the automatic movement below, all framed by a radiant sunburst champagne dial. Price: $525.

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The Watches

Ralph Lauren Expands Safari Series

Ralph Lauren adds a new size to its adventure-themed Safari Chronometer collection, adding a 42.6mm model with a choice of three different dial colors: khaki, camouflage and black. The watches previously were offered only in 45mm and 39mm options. 

One of three new Ralph Lauren Safari Chronometer models, each sized at 42.6mm in diameter.

Each dial color retains the Safari’s large 12 and 6 numerals and orange seconds hand and easy-to-read luminous hour and minute hands.   

The Safari collection’s signature “aged” stainless steel case and varnished matte anthracite bezel frame each dial.

As you might expect from fashion-forward Ralph Lauren, the strap choice here is retro-cool.

A weathered black/brown “aged” calfskin leather strap is offered on the camouflage dial and black-dial model while a black stainless steel three-link bracelet comes attached to the khaki-dial model.

Inside each watch Ralph Lauren fits an automatic RL300-1 Caliber, a Sellita-based automatic movement that boasts a 50-hour power reserve and is water-resistant to 100 meters. Each watch is protected by a screw-down crown marked with the RL logo. 

Prices: $3,500 and $3,800 (steel-bracelet model).

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The Watches

Frederique Constant Applies Humor to Moonphase Model 

While a glance at the newest Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date might reveal a classical moon-phase subdial with a hand-date, a closer inspection reveals something much more unusual. The hour markers on the two hand dress watch seem oddly askew, scattered around the dial as if forgotten during assembly.

The new Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture Seconde/Second/Limited Edition

What’s more, the brand’s logo and the date display appear to be written by hand. Even the moon and stars within the moon-phase disk look uneven, as if written by an amateur.

Rest assured that the dial typography and finish are not made in error, but are a result of an unusual collaboration by Frederique Constant with artist Romaric André, known as ‘Seconde/Seconde/,’ that is meant to highlight the hand-assembled nature of the watchmaker’s products.

Each of the askew elements themselves are actually perfectly executed and embellished by hand, but their placement and tentative nature are aimed at emphasizing how Frederique Constant hand-finishes its dials, movements and cases.

The caseback gives the game away. The watch’s sapphire display back features a telltale explanation of the collaboration, with “How do we tell the world that manual‐assembly is at the core of our Manufacture? We asked artist seconde/seconde/. He took it too far” printed on the back. 

Just beneath the message the owner can eye the Frederique Constant FC‐705 in‐house automatic caliber that artisans have finished with perlage graining on the base plate, côtes de Genève striping on the bridge and blued screws throughout.

André notes that “As watch lovers, we’re looking for perfection… but when it becomes too perfect, we start to regret the lack of soul, the lack of connection with the ‘artisanal roots’ of watchmaking.”

Frederique Constant and André have created two limited editions of the watch. One is an online boutique limited edition of ten pieces that features rose gold accents on the case and dial. The second model is limited to 100 pieces encased in steel and available at Frederique Constant retailers worldwide. Price: $3,495.

 

Specifications: Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture Seconde/Second/Limited Edition 

(Ref. FC-705SOC4S6, limited edition of 100 and FC-705SOC4S2 with gold-colored indexes, limited edition of 10) 

 

Movement: FC-705 in-house caliber, automatic 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 alt/h. 

Case: 42mm by 11.3mm polished stainless steel 3-part. Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30 meters, see-through case back. 

Dial: Silver with matte finishing, Frederique Constant Geneve logo hand-written by artist Seconde/Seconde, hand-applied off-center silver color indexes, hand-polished silver color hour and minute hands, moonphase at 6 o’clock, date by hand at 6 o’clock written by Seconde/Seconde.

Strap: Black alligator leather with matte finishing and tone-on-tone stitching, stainless steel folding buckle.

Price: $3,495. 

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