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By Laurent Martinez

If you hear me say, “Life is an interesting journey, full of surprises,” Federico Restrepo embodies one of those surprises. Not only is his great-grandfather Henri-Paul Nénot, the appointed architect of the Nouvelle Sorbonne in Paris, but he is also related to Paul Landowski, the sculptor of the “Corcovado Christ” in Rio de Janeiro. 

Growing up Franco-Colombian in Spain, surrounded by luminaries like Fernando Botero and Gabriel Garcia Marques, he cultivated a rich tapestry of art, design, and creativity.

Originally on the path to becoming a philosopher studying at La Sorbonne, Federico Restrepo quickly realized philosophy wasn’t his life’s calling. While deciding what to do with this life, he was commissioned by his mother’s friend to design a lamp, which subsequently won the top prize at the international light trade show in Paris.

Federico Restrepo

He then started his first agency, Reason Pur, with a friend, and in 1993, he founded L’Ateliers, a company with a focus on design. His design company became very successful in the world of cosmetics, perfume, and luxury.

Notably, he designed the iconic bust-shaped perfume line of Jean-Paul Gautier, as well as designs for perfumer Roger & Gallet. 

Pocket Watches 

Restrepo’s passion for watches dates back to his childhood, where he scoured the “Los Encantes” flea market in Barcelona for pocket watches and sometimes dabbled in fixing them. His fascination grew, considering these timepieces as living hearts made of metal. 

Some of his earliest pieces were watches from Yema, Kelton, and other popular French watch brands. While he loved collecting watches from the 1970s, his dream was to design his own watches and launch an eponymous watch brand.

Due to health issues, Federico Restrepo had to close his company in 2000. During recovery, aboard the Concorde from Paris to New York, he began sketching a watch. From an altitude of 60,000 feet, he discovered that Earth took on an elliptical form (not a sphere), and it became his source of inspiration.

After designing a few models, he presented his work to Michel Guten, CEO of Cartier, who decided to help Federico start his watch company called Streamline. (He thought Federico’s background, family history, reputation, and designs were ideal for a new watch company). Unfortunately, September 11 happened, and his dream disappeared as fast as it came.

Re-Launch

When Covid erupted in 2020, Federico Restrepo decided to give his watch company a second chance, launching Restrepo watches.  From sketching and designing to manufacturing and packaging, Federico is always 100% behind the entire project.

He always keeps his initial elliptical design in mind, that silhouette that appeared to him aboard the Concorde, whether it’s for the Hasta La Victoria model made in honor of the legend of Simón Bolívar or the Caballero sin Armas series or the Mach 1 chronographs. 

Restrepo watches have interchangeable strap systems, which means you can easily switch between rubber straps and stainless steel bracelets. The watches’ pushers at 12 o’clock are reminiscent of the Seiko Bullheads from the 1970s.

Powering the watches are automatic  ETA 7750 movements. There are several limited edition pieces with complications like GMTs, power reserve indications, or chronographs.

Most Restrepo watches are made of stainless steel, but there are a few pieces made in gold too. The packaging is well-designed and attention to detail is a top priority; I could clearly see Federico’s background as one of the world’s top perfume packaging designers shine through. 

I really believe that creativity is lacking in today’s watch landscape; too many brands rely on bringing back old designs rather than trying to create new ones. For this reason, I’d like to give Federico credit for having designed something from an idea; something from scratch that’s unique and special. 

Of course, people may or may not like the design but it’s important that it exists; and this is what I like about it. So, I encourage you to take the time to discover these watches. What’s more, the $2,000 price point makes it affordable for a luxury watch. Restrepo watches are a thoughtful homage to beauty, originality, and space, right on your wrist. 

Laurent Martinez is the proprietor of Laurent Fine Watches, Greenwich, Connecticut. Read more by him at blog.laurentfinewatches.com, or visit his site at www.laurentfinewatches.com.

Piaget revisits the golden age of Polo with the new Piaget Polo 79, a karat gold ode to the jet-setting original.

The new Piaget Polo 79

At 38mm in diameter, the new Polo is slightly larger than the 34mm original but retains the Polo’s very chic 1970s vibe. While many of that era’s high-profile luxury sport watches were cased in steel, the Piaget Polo remained an all-precious-metal model.

Like the reigning steel-cased watches of the 1970s, Piaget’s Polo also featured a bracelet that seamlessly linked to the case, with Polo’s brushed and polished gold bracelet links apparently extending across the dial, offering a pleasing uniform pattern around the wrist.

Piaget designed the Polo to mimic a ‘second skin’ that made its bracelet appear
to have been sculpted from a single piece of gold.

Piaget eventually offered its gold Polo in a variety of shapes, all with precious metal cases and bracelets.

Initially fit with Piaget’s record-breaking ultra-thin 7P quartz movement, the watchmaker in the early 1980s began to offer Polo with its ultra-thin mechanical caliber 9P, which was fit into a wide range of Polo models for years to come.

The new iteration sees Piaget returning to its most classic Polo design, now updated with Piaget’s latest ultra-thin mechanical caliber, the excellent 1200P1 automatic movement.

And in addition to the slightly larger 38mm case diameter, the new Polo 79 exposes its nicely finished caliber through a modern sapphire caseback. 

Price: $73,000. 

Hublot unveils the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium, the watchmaker’s tenth Manufacture Piece (MP) and a technical standout among a wide-ranging set of debuts for the Swiss watchmaker during LVMH Watch Week.

The new Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium.

Additional debuts include a colorful green model within Hublot’s Unico Saxem series, new yellow and light blue Orlinsky tourbillon models, two new Big Bang Integrated time-only ceramic models and a host of Spirit of Big Bang gem-set watches. 

No Hands

Continuing the avant-garde focus of the MP series, the MP-10 shows the time without hands, instead indicating hours and minutes via an aluminum roller display built directly within a linear movement.

Seconds are shown directly on the tourbillon case on the lower section of the dial. All three of these primary indicators utilize the same white lacquer typography and red triangular marker.

A fourth indicator displays the state of the watch’s 48-hour power reserve. This is shown with red and green disc.

Hublot powers the automatic movement and its 35-degree-inclined tourbillon via two linear weights, one of either side of the movement.

Hublot explains that its watchmakers have developed a patent-pending system of shock absorbers for these weights in order to wind the movement bidirectionally. 

In addition to its automatic system, the MP-10 can be wound manually by rotating the crown at 12 o’clock. The time is set using a second crown on the case-back.

Hublot notes that while the two-piece titanium case (54.1 mm by 41.5mm by 22.4mm) is relatively straight-forward, the sapphire crystal that sits on top is the watchmaker’s most complex yet as it combines inclined planes on three axes. The same applies to the integrated rubber strap, which Hublot calls “the most refined ever designed by the Manufacture.”

Price: $264,000. Hublot is offering the  MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium as a limited edition of fifty watches. 

Zenith unveils boutique editions of its existing Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback watches, both of which feature the brilliant blue dials we’ve seen on previous Zenith boutique-only launches.

The new Zenith Pilot Automatic, Boutique Edition

These latest models give a new look to two of Zenith’s top 2023 debuts. Each highlights the watchmaker’s signature sky blue hue as rendered on textured, grooved dials meant to recall the corrugated metal sheets of vintage aircraft. Both watches also sport the word Pilot on the dial, which Zenith notes is an especially significant detail. That’s because only Zenith holds the rights to mark its dials with the term.

Zenith makes one of the two new watches, the Pilot Automatic Boutique Edition, with a 40mm stainless steel case that features a distinctive flat-top round bezel, which complements the watch’s satin-brushed, rounded case. 

Above the date window you’ll see a luminescent hour marker in the form of a flat white line. This detail is meant to recall the artificial horizon instrument in plane’s cockpit.

The new 42.5mm Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback, Boutique Edition.

As the second of the new boutique-only watches, the new 42.5mm Pilot Big Date Flyback Boutique Edition offers a monotone sky-blue big date wheels to match the dial. More complicated with its flyback function, the watch’s namesake display that, combined with its large crown, was originally made for pilots who wore thick sheepskin gloves.

The flyback function allows the chronograph to be reset to zero and restarted by a single push of a button, simplifying the pilot’s operations and offering the possibility to record consecutive times without having to stop and restart.

From the back of the Pilot Big Date Flyback the wearer can eye an El Primero 3652 chronograph caliber with its “artificial horizon” rotor visible. (See below for all technical specifications). 

Zenith fits the watch on a blue rubber strap and also provides a brown  calfskin strap. All the straps come with an integrated quick-release mechanism for easy swapping without tools.

Prices: $7,500 (Pilot Automatic) and $11,500 (Pilot Big Date Flyback), both available in Zenith physical and online boutiques. 

 

Specifications:

Zenith Pilot Automatic, Boutique Edition 

(Reference: 03.4000.3620/51.I003)

Key points: El Primero 3-hands watch. High-frequency movement (5Hz). Full interchangeable strap system. Boutiques Edition.

Movement: El Primero 3620 SC, automatic

Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)

Power reserve: Approx. 60 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Central seconds hand. Date indication at 6 o’clock.

Finishes: Special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight

Material: Stainless steel

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Case: 40mm

Dial: Blue with horizontal grooves

Hour markers: Applied Arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1

Hands: Blue & white with SLN C1

Bracelet & Buckle: Comes with 2 straps: Blue “Cordura” effect rubber and a brown calfskin leather with folding clasp.

 

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback, Boutique Edition

(Reference: 03.4000.3652/51.I003)

Key points: Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph with flyback function. Patented Big Date at 6 o’clock. Instantaneous Big Date jump in 0.007 sec (0.02 for discs jump & stabilization). Full Interchangeable strap system. Boutiques Edition.

Movement: El Primero 3652, automatic

Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)

Power reserve: approx. 60 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. Instantaneous Big Date at 6 o’clock. Flyback Chronograph. 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock.

Finishes: Special “Pilot artificial horizon” black oscillating weight

Material: Stainless steel 

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Case: 42.5mm

Dial: Blue with horizontal grooves

Hour markers: Applied arabic numerals in SuperLuminova SLN C1

Hands: Blue & white with SLN C1

Bracelet & Buckle: Comes with 2 straps: Blue “Cordura” effect rubber and a brown calfskin leather with folding clasp.

Chronoswiss adds two new dial hues to its Flying Regulator Night & Day collection.  Each steel-case limited edition offers its own artistic interpretation of the ongoing 41mm Chronoswiss regulator-dial collection, which emphasizes a large central minute hand set atop smaller hour and seconds indicators. The Night & Day editions add a specialized, artisanal day/night subdial at the 9 o’clock position. 

The new Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Night & Day Midnight.

One of the debuts, the Flying Regulator Night & Day Midnight, features a blue guilloché dial, a darkened version of the Chronoswiss specialty.

 

This dark blue version is meant to echo a dark night sky and is accented with a three-dimensional day/night display adorned with laser-cut stars.

 

These stars, created with a generous dollop of SuperLumiNova, shine with notable intensity in the evening.

The new Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Night & Day Whiteout.

On the other hand, or wrist in this case, the new Flying Regulator Night & Day Whiteout echoes a daytime scene, specifically a meteorological ‘whiteout’ where the horizon blends with the sky.

Chronoswiss has also crafted an artisanal guilloché dial for this watch, here meant to recall this natural whiteout phenomenon.

As noted, both new watches retain the quite distinctive Chronoswiss regulator dial layout with notably separate hour and seconds rings. The three-dimensional dials within this series show off the ETA-based  Chronoswiss caliber C.296 automatic movement via an opening in the small seconds subdial.

Of course, the movement is also visible through the sapphire caseback, a wristwatch feature Chronoswiss pioneered in the 1980s. 

Chronoswiss is offering each debut as a limited edition of fifty watches. 

Price: $11,200.