The new Zodiac Super Sea WolfSkeleton 6-15 is a skeletonized and colorful example of one of the watchmaker’s hottest-selling dive watches.
Framed with a multi-hued Super Chroma K1 crystal bezel, the watch’s open-work Swiss-made STP 6-15 skeletonized automatic movement is a mechanical wonder, fully visible from front and back.
Zodiac is offering the 40mm steel watch, which echoes the 1953 original Sea Wolf, as a limited-run model. In addition to its rainbow bezel, you’ll find silver and yellow hands and markers with Super-LumiNova, all complemented by Zodiac’s classic five-link stainless steel Jubilee bracelet. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters.
“Color has always been a pillar of the Zodiac design,” explains Zodiac creative director, Ryan White. “The Super Chroma bezel was our most daring use of color to date and a nod to our rebellious roots.”
Doxa thins and slims its SUB 200 C-Graph dive watch series, adding a selection of models with a 42mm diameter (down from the 45mm of the existing series from 2020) and a reduced thickness of 15.85mm. The new series, called SUB 200 C-Graph II, also boasts a new sunburst dial finish, all offered in the collections’s familiar six-colors.
Despite its new size, the Doxa vintage-themed series retains its Tri-Compax dial layout, its unidirectional rotating steel bezel and its minute indication highlighted in white SuperLuminova. The White Pearl model (below) features a ceramic bezel.
A close look at the dials of the bright new SUB 200 C-Graph II watches reveals the details of the light-refracting sunburst finish.
Thin brushed lines, created by artisans using metal filament brushes, radiate outward from the center of the dial (like sun rays). The effect serves to illuminates each of the collection’s six dial colors.
Devised for long dive times, the SUB 200 C-Graph II allows up to twelve hours of time to be measured using the stopwatch function.
A sweep center-seconds hand begins its revolutions, when the chronograph is activated, and works in concert with minutes and hours registers.
Doxa fits each watch with an ETA-based automatic three-hand movement offering a power reserve of 56 hours and protected with 200 meters of water resistance. Prices start at $2,850 (see details below).
Specifications: Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph II
Case: 42mm by 46mm by 15.85mm stainless steel, screw-down crown,
sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotating bezel, solid steel back, screw-in.
Water resistance: 200 meters.
Dial:Sunray-finished, available in the six colors of the collection, hour, minute and counter hands coated with Super-LumiNova. Bezel marker at 12 o’clock coated with white Super-LumiNova, Caribbean & SharkHunter models: Super-LumiNova on all markers, except the timer White Pearl ceramic model: no Super-LumiNova on the bezel.
Movement:Swiss automatic, 3 hands, chronograph power reserve of approx. 56 hours, frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). DOXA decorations.
Strap/Bracelet:Stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet, attached by screws for a secure fit, folding clasp with wetsuit extension, embossed “DOXA fish” symbol
or FKM rubber strap, tone-on-tone color-matched with the dial. Buckle featuring the exclusive “DOXA Fish” symbol.
Urwerk rebuilds its UR-102, which debuted in 1997, to create UR-102 Reloaded, a round watch that still offers the hands-free wandering-hour display of the original, which was inspired by the Sputnik satellite launch of 1957.
With its familiar semi-circular time track and digital hour marker, the new Urwerk UR-102 updates the pioneering original model with a slightly larger (41mm) case with larger lugs.
Urwerk has also merged the crown into the case and moved it from the 3 o’clock position to the 4 o’clock position. And instead of the ceramicized aluminum of the original, the new edition is cased in satin-brushed or black titanium.
“If you observe our UR-102 Reloaded in its titanium version, you will notice that the minutes track is the same blue,” explains Urwerk’s Martin Frei.
“We redesigned and shifted the crown slightly. The migration of the crown led to a change in the opening for reading the time. No longer a perfect semi-circle, this ‘window’ is wider with sloping edges, giving it a fresher, more dynamic look,” he adds.
Urwerk has also redesigned the font of the hours and minutes markers and added new information on the dial.
Urwerk offers the UR-102 Reloaded in a boxed set issued as a 25-piece limited edition comprising the titanium and black titanium versions. Later this year the watches will be available individually.Price: $60,000.
MB&F revisits its Legacy Machine Perpetual this week with a new model featuring a salmon-colored dial plate. The combination of a steel case and salmon hue is a first for MB&F, which will release the new model in limited production, not as a limited edition.
MB&F’s latest Legacy Machine Perpetual, which won the Best Calendar Watch prize at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) in 2016, offers the same groundbreaking, manual-wind LM Perpetual movement conceived by MB&F Friend Stephen McDonnell for the 2015 original.
That groundbreaking design means the Legacy Machine Perpetual will operate with no skipped dates or jammed gears. Owners often inadvertently create problems within their perpetual calendars by attempting to reset them while the gears are mid-function, resulting in some damage to the highly complex date mechanism.
McDonnell’s design is proactive in a sense because when the user attempts to adjust the calendar, the movement’s pushers automatically deactivate so they don’t cause any damage to other components.
At the heart of the difference is how the Legacy Machine Perpetual determines dates. Traditional perpetual calendars use a 31-day month as the default, changing, for example, from February 28 to March 1 quickly to arrive at the 1st. Interrupting the movement during this critical changeover can damage it.
With this perpetual calendar movement, Busser and friends essentially replaced that traditional system with a mechanical processor that instead utilizes that default 28-day month and adds extra days only as required.
Three years go MB&F added a sporty version of the perpetual calendar when it launched the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, a zirconium-cased update to the original model.
This new model, with its premiere 44mm by 17.5mm steel case/salmon dial plate-color combination, is a handsome – and welcome – addition to the full collection of a true ground-breaking original.
Price: $180,000.
Since its 2015 debut, the MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual has been offered:
– in platinum 950 with blue face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in 18k red gold with grey face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in 18k white gold with purple face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in 18k white gold with dark grey face;
– in grade 5 titanium with green face (limited to 50 pieces);
– in 18k yellow gold with blue face (limited to 25 pieces);
– in palladium 950 with aquamarine face (limited to 25 pieces);
Maurice Lacroix adds new hues to its recently updated Pontos Day Date, enhancing the dial’s color contrasts, and now sells the watch in eco-friendly packaging.
The independent Swiss watchmaker recently added newly facetted (and applied) markers and hands to the popular (and affordable) 41mm Day/Date model.
The dial offers clearer contrasts than previous editions, especially with the new raised minute track that clearly delineates the dial indicators. The minute track, no longer along the edge of the dial, sits inside the hour track and creates a new, modern appearance. The track is slightly recessed and is set with clean markings and contrasting hues to enhance visibility.
As the watch’s name indicates, you’ll find a date and a day window, each deeper than you might expect. Maurice Lacroix teams the new dial layout with a choice of three new dial colors: black, silver and anthracite. All three are finished with a sunray motif and silver or golden-toned hands and indexes.
Maurice Lacroix brushes and polishes the stainless case 41mm case, which holds an automatic ML143 Sellita-based caliber, visible via the exhibition caseback. The watchmaker finishes the movement with Côtes de Genève while the rotor features vertical Côtes de Genève and sun brushing.
To attach the new watches to the wrist, Maurice Lacroix provides a choice of a three-row stainless steel bracelet or black leather strap, the latter of which sports the company’s M-logo. And of course you’ll be able to swap straps using the firm’s own Easy Strap Exchange System.
Finally, these newest Maurice Lacroix Pontos Day Date 41mm debuts arrive in new packaging made of recycled ocean-bound waste, echoing the material used to create the full Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide watch series.
Price: Starting at $2,050 (strap) and $2,100 (steel bracelet).