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MB&F returns to the race track with a new automtive-themed hue for its HM8 Mark 2, the compact version of the MB&F HM8.

The newest MB&F HM8 Mark 2 features a metallic blue body.

You might recall that the HM8 Mark 2 combines the supercar styling of the watchmaker’s HM5 with the driving watch display and open ‘hood’ of the MB&F HM8 from 2016. Its horizontal time display, inspired by a 1976 design from Amida Digitrend, is optically magnified and projected 90 degrees to the wearer via a series of sapphire prisms.

Launched last year in white or green options, the HM8 Mark 2 collection now includes this model with a glossy sapphire blue case, available as limited edition of thirty-three pieces. MB&F explains that with similar metallic pigments and a translucid material, the blue body panels on the new model recall the sheen on luxurious car paints.

While the initial HM8 models were built with titanium and gold, the newer HM8 Mark 2 is built from titanium topped with CarbonMacrolon, a composite material composed of a polymer matrix injected with carbon nanotubes.

The material, developed for MB&F, is eight times lighter than steel and can be colored, polished, bead-blasted, lacquered or satin-finished. MB&F creates a  more unisex appeal with the watch, taking full advantage of the new material to create a lighter, smaller and more brightly colored driving watch.

When it debuted last year, the first HM8 Mark 2 models also debuted  a new type of crown for MB&F. The crown’s ‘double de-clutch’ system works by pushing the crown in and turning it three-quarters of a turn to release it. This saves space and creates a tighter seal for the crown itself.

Price: $78,000.

Specifications: MB&F HM8 Mark 2

The MB&F HM8 Mark 2 is available:

– in titanium and green CarbonMacrolon body panels limited to 33 pieces;

– in titanium and white CarbonMacrolon body panels;

– in titanium and blue CarbonMacrolon body panels limited to 33 pieces.

Movement:

Three-dimensional horological engine, composed of a jumping hour and trailing minutes module developed in-house by MB&F, powered by a Girard-Perregaux base movement.

Mechanical movement, automatic winding

22-karat gold automatic winding rotor

Power reserve: 42 hours

Balance frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz.

Number of components: 247 components

Number of jewels: 30 jewels

Functions/indications:

Bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes, displayed by dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lens.

Case: Grade 5 titanium with green, white or blue CarbonMacrolon

Dimensions: 47mm x 41.5mm x 19 mm

Number of components: 42, Water resistance: 30 meters

Sapphire crystals: Sapphire crystals on top, front and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces. Dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lens.

Strap & Buckle: Calfskin strap – white for the British green and sapphire blue models and green for the white model with a titanium tang buckle.

Price: $78,000.

Building from its hot 39mm-wide H08 series of modified round-shaped sports-casual watches, Hermès adds the Hermès Cut, a 36mm integrated steel watch ostensibly aimed at smaller (feminine) wrists.

The Hermès Cut

But much like the wildly successful H08, billed as a men’s watch but with unisex appeal, the Cut will likely also appeal to men who prefer a smaller case size.

Like the earlier design, the new Cut plays around with the classic round case shape. Two beveled and polished slices along the sides of the Cut case modify the round case shape, creating a subtle break in the expected circular arc.

With the crown at an unexpected position between 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock, the Cut presents a unique geometry. The shape is accentuated by careful mix of polish on the ‘cut’ on the right and left case side and on the outer bezel, which nicely contrasts with the primarily satin-brushed full case and bezel top.

The watch’s bevel-cut bezel frames a lovely curved silvered opaline dial marked with luminescent applied Arabic numerals. The numerals feature an all-new Hermès font.

Hermès fits its own automatic Hermès H1912 movement into the Cut, making its visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

The Cut is a full collection, with a selection of options that include full steel models to two-tone options in steel and rose gold. Any version is also available with fifty-six bezel-set diamonds.

The watch arrives with a fully integrated metal bracelet that retains the alternating finishes of the case. Hermès will of course offer a wide range of colorful rubber straps that can be easily swapped onto the case as desired.

Price:  $6,725 to $21,900.

Among the many impressive new watches Grand Seiko debuted during Watches & Wonders 2024, this red-dialed Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (SBGC275) is particularly notable.

The Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGC275

Meant to recall the sun’s terrestrial light show as it rises and sets in the Hotaka mountain range in the Shinshu region of central Japan (where Grand Seiko makes its Spring Drive watches), the distinctive dial appears to change colors with each viewing, as the ambient light itself changes.

Grand Seiko launches the watch, which joins the watchmaker’s Sport Collection, as it celebrates the 20th anniversary of the first Grand Seiko watch powered by the 9R Spring Drive movement series. 

The watchmaker explains that this dial is made possible through the use of a new dial-processing technology that involves a patented dial-coating process known as “Optical Multilayer Coating.”

“Instead of traditional techniques to color the dial, the new technology uses a physical vapor deposition process,” explains Grand Seiko’s Jon Bues. “Several layers of nanoscale film create an effect in which the dial exhibits a different hue depending on the angle of view. Combined with the silent glide motion of the seconds hand, the transitioning dial colors bring a new dimension to the idea of the nature of time.”

Set within Grand Seiko’s angular case, inspired by the shape of a lion (a Grand Seiko symbol) this newest Spring Drive Chronograph GMT offers notable claw-like, hairline-finished lugs that contrast nicely with the watch’s many Zaratsu-polished surfaces.

With curved lugs and a low center of gravity, the new watch sits comfortably
on the wrist.

The high-intensity titanium 44.5mm by 16.8mm case weights about thirty percent less than stainless steel and has a brighter color. That brightness continues amid the eye-catching red-orange with Luminous hands and markers.

Here Grand Seiko careful considers the light once again, with two colors of Lumibrite: green for the markers and the hour and minute hands and blue for the GMT hand and the numbers on the bezel. This enhances the watch’s legibility in dark conditions.

To symbolize enhanced accuracy, an 18k gold Grand Seiko lion emblem can be seen on the movement’s oscillating weight.

Inside Grand Seiko fits its excellent Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96, a specially adjusted version of Caliber 9R86. The movement delivers an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month, or ±0.5 seconds per day.

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96, a specially adjusted version of Caliber 9R86.

Grand Seiko is offering the Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (SBGC275) as a limited edition of 700, available at the Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners worldwide in July. Price: $13,400. 

Specifications: Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition: SBGC275

Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Caliber 9R96
Driving system: Automatic
Accuracy: ±10 seconds per month (±0.5 seconds per day) Power reserve: 72 hours
GMT hand
Chronograph up to 12 hours
Number of jewels: 50
High-intensity titanium case and bracelet
Three-fold clasp with push-button release, secure lock, and extender Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating See-through screw case back
Screw-down crown
Water resistance: 20 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 44.5mm, Thickness: 16.8mm
Price: $13,400
Limited edition of 700

 

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, TAG Heuer’s highlight Watches and Wonders 2024 debut, pairs the square Monaco case with a wholly new split-seconds chronograph caliber.

The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph features an all-titanium TH81-00 mechanical split-seconds chronograph caliber.

Made entirely of titanium, the watch’s TH81-00 movement is the lightest automatic chronograph movement ever created by the watchmaker, which teamed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier to create the caliber.

While Heuer dominated sports timing, particularly automotive racing, during much of the 20th century with its ground-breaking split-second chronograph pocket watches and timers, the Le Locle watchmaker had not previously offered a mechanical wristwatch with the same function. (In 1989, TAG Heuer introduced a quartz split-seconds chronograph wristwatch that became a favorite of racing legends such as Ayrton Senna, Gerhard Berger and Michael Schumacher.)

“In developing this new watch we spent months researching complications, and quickly knew it had to be a chronograph, and particularly with a split-second function, which is the queen of chronographs,” explains Nicholas Biebuyck, TAG Heuer’s Heritage Director. A split-seconds function is capable of measuring two separate time intervals concurrently.

“We found documentation dating to 1889 that advertises the Heuer brand as specializing in the rattrapante platform. As it turns out, we had never made a (mechanical) chronograph with a split second for the wrist,” he adds. 

No compromise

To rectify that somewhat surprising omission, Biebuyck and Carole Forestier-Kasapi, TAG Heuer’s movements director, worked with TAG Heuer’s technical team to create the watchmaker’s first wrist rattrapante “with no compromise.”

The team started with a high-frequency 5-Hz movement to enhance split-second accuracy, and quickly determined that to make a highly wearable, lightweight and ergonomically impressive debut wrist rattrapante, it would need to be made of titanium.

“The reason we chose titanium for the case was because we wanted to create something particularly comfortable to wear, but we then extended this to the movement as well,” adds Forestier-Kasapi.

TAG Heuer offers various titanium-cased Monaco chronographs, though all are powered with traditionally manufactured movements. 

“I cannot think of an example where we have made an entire movement in titanium previously. Certainly not in a commercially available product,” says Biebuyck. Even when the all sides of the 41mm by 15.2mm case and the movement are combined, the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph weighs a wispy 85 grams.

The new watch enhances the timepiece’s overall novelty with extensive application of sapphire to the case. The clarity created by the clear sapphire offers an open view into the titanium Calibre TH81-00 movement.

The back offers an unobstructed view of the signature checkerboard pattern on the center bridge and the fine-brushed balance wheel bridge. From the edges of the case we can also see the movement’s two column wheels and decorated bridges.

TAG Heuer offers two Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph models. A red variation with black DLC coating is inspired by TAG Heuer’s long history in the world of professional automotive racing.

A blue model pays tribute to the original color code of the Heuer Monaco. Here, gradient blue dial arches transition from light blue, an effect created through a painstaking anodizing process.

Price: CHF 165,000. 

      

Arnold & Son sails into new horological territory with Longitude Titanium, the watchmaker’s first luxury sport watch and its first all-titanium collection.

One of three Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium debuts.

The nautically themed watch is a COSC-certified chronometer with a 42.5 mm titanium case and a matching titanium bracelet. Its vertical dial layout honors marine chronometers, which the famed British watchmaker and company namesake John Arnold pioneered.

Nautical references and rounded edges abound on the collection. While the middle of the case echoes the waterline of a ship, the bezel’s base has been notched sixty times to mimic the typical fluted ring John Arnold used on his historic marine chronometers. Satin finishes dominate all flat surfaces, which allows the few polish edges to stand out.

This relatively unadorned dial sets it apart from the typically complex Arnold & Son layouts, which typically feature skeletonized, moon phase and busier artisanal designs.

Particularly large, satin-finished, polished and luminescent hour-markers echo the shape of the hands and the bracelet links.

The vertically aligned layout features a mirror-polished power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock and a prominent sub-seconds display at 6 o’clock.

Inside the Longitude Titanium Arnold & Son fits the new, COSC-certified in-house A&S6302 caliber, an automatic movement with a gold rotor carved to recall both a sextant and the prow of an 18th-century English frigate. As with all Arnold & Son movements, the power reserve here is long, offering a full sixty hours of autonomy on a full wind.

Arnold & Son again reaches back to its namesake with the dial options for the Longitude Titanium. To recall the coast of Cornwall, John Arnold’s birthplace, Arnold & Son offers the first collections in a sandy golden shade called Kingsand (a local beach), ocean blue and fern green.

The Kingsand model is a limited edition of 88 pieces. Each watch arrives with an additional rubber strap that is interchangeable with the titanium bracelet. 

Prices: CHF 22,600 (Kingsand) and CHF 21,500 (blue and green).

 

Specifications: Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium 

Movement: Calibre A&S6302, self-winding mechanical, COSC-certified, 36 jewels 36, Power reserve 60 hours, frequency 4 Hz/28,000 vph. Finishes mainplate: palladium finish, circular-grained bridges: palladium finish, polished and chamfered, ‘Rayons de la Gloire’ motif wheels: golden finish, circular satin-finished screws: blued and chamfered, mirror-polished heads, oscillating weight: 22-carat red gold (5N), skeletonized, chamfered, engraved.

Dial: Kingsand gold, ocean blue or fern green PVD treatment,  vertical satin finish power reserve: blue PVD treatment, golden finish or rhodium-plating, mirror-polished small seconds, snailed hour-markers: rhodium-plated or golden finish, coated with Super-LumiNova hands: rhodium-plated or golden finish, skeletonized, coated with Super-LumiNova.

Case: 42.5mm by 12.25mm titanium, Crystal: sapphire, anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back: sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating, water-resistance: 100 m/330 ft.

Interchangeable bracelet: Titanium, folding clasp. Additional strap: blue or green rubber, titanium pin buckle.

Limited edition: Kingsand gold: 88 timepieces, ocean blue: not limited, fern green: not limited.

Prices: CHF 22,600 (Kingsand) and CHF 21,500 (blue and green).