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Zenith Adds a Tourbillon to Defy Skyline

Since its debut two years ago, the Defy Skyline collection has become one of Zenith’s best-sellers. Now, Zenith adds a tourbillon to the collection to create two 41mm Defy Skyline Tourbillon models, one in steel and the other in black ceramic. 

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon, here in black ceramic. A second model is cased in steel.

Zenith’s own high-frequency movement houses an open-worked tourbillon with a cage shaped to mimic the Zenith star logo. The new debuts maintain the signature sunray pattern metallic dial found throughout the Defy Skyline series. Zenith places the tourbillon within an aperture on the lower portion of the dial.

The tourbillon design is notably open with a prominent mirror-polished bridge. On the black ceramic model, the bridge’s gold-plated hue matches the dial’s markers and hands.

On the steel edition, the markers and hands are rhodium plated to match the case finish.

Each dial features a pattern of engraved four-pointed stars that appear to radiate away from the tourbillon, expanding as they reach the dial’s edge.

As noted, Zenith’s new El Primero 3630 automatic high-frequency caliber powers both models, offering generous power reserve of sixty hours. The movement’s open star-shaped rotor offers the owner a nice view of the very modern movement.

Zenith fits the Defy Skyline Tourbillon on either a stainless steel or black ceramic bracelet, depending on the model, and adds a second strap in blue or black rubber. The strap can be quickly changed by the owner using the caseback’s quick strap-change mechanism.

Prices: $57,100 (steel) and $67,400 (black ceramic) 

 

 

Specifications: Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon 

Steel: 

Reference: 03.9300.3630/51.I001

Key points: Automatic high frequency tourbillon. Starry sky pattern on the dial that starts from tourbillon. Screwed-in crown. Full interchangeable strap system.

Movement: El Primero 3630 automatic.

Frequency: 36,000 VpH – 5Hz

Power reserve: approx. 60 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the center tourbillon: The carriage is positioned at 6 o’clock; it makes one turn per minute; tourbillon cage with 56 components.

Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings

Material: Stainless steel

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Case: 41mm

Dial: Blue-toned sunray-patterned

Hour markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Bracelet & Buckle: Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp. 2nd strap included: blue rubber with folding clasp.

Price: $57,100.

 

Black Ceramic:

Reference: 49.9300.3630/21.I001

Key points: Automatic high-frequency tourbillon. Starry sky pattern on the dial that starts from tourbillon. Screwed-in crown. Full interchangeable strap system.

Movement: El Primero 3630 automatic

Frequency: 36,000 VpH – 5Hz

Power reserve: approx. 60 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the center tourbillon: The carriage is positioned at 6 o’clock; it makes one turn per minute; tourbillon cage with 56 components.

Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satined finishings

Material: Black ceramic

Water resistance: 10 ATM

Case: 41mm

Dial: Black-toned sunray pattern.

Hour markers: Gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Hands: Gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1

Bracelet & Buckle: Black ceramic bracelet with folding clasp. 2nd strap included: black rubber with steel black PVD folding clasp.

Price: $67,400

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Louis Vuitton Creates Voyager with “Stained Glass’ Enamel Dial

Louis Vuitton dresses its already impressive in-house flying tourbillon with stunning ‘stained glass’ artisanal enamel to create the new 41mm platinum and white gold Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève“ Plique-à-jour. 

The new 41mm platinum and white gold Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève“ Plique-à-jour.

By pairing a modern flying tourbillon movement developed within the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton workshop with a traditional enameling technique, Louis Vuitton draws attention to its wide-ranging mastery of artistic craftsmanship, which for this model focuses on plique-à-jour, a  technique pioneered by Byzantine artisans in the 4th and 5th centuries.

Essentially, the technique consists of depositing enamel into open cells and allowing it to color the space in a ‘capillary action fill.’

The artisan must apply the enamel in multiple layers and kiln fire it each time in order to achieve the correct transparency that, when completed, echoes a stained glass window. More than 100 hours of artisanal work are required to complete each dial.

The blue hue that dominates the new watch was particularly difficult to create, according to Louis Vuitton, which adds that “many months of research were needed to obtain this blue gradient.

To achieve this, the Maison worked with several master enamelers within its atelier at La Fabrique des Arts.”

The transparent enamel panes are set within a white gold dial created with repeated interlocking Vs (for Vuitton).

This pattern pairs perfectly with the skeletonized LV 104 Caliber, a beautifully finished manual-wind movement also developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. 

Note that the watch’s Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève) certification is visible both on the front of the watch and in border on the caseback.

Echoing the workmanship required to construct the enamel work here, the flying tourbillon movement also requires painstaking watchmaking and design technique. Louis Vuitton explains that more than 120 hours of work are required to assemble all 168 parts of the caliber, which boasts a strong 80-hour power reserve.

Price: Upon request. 

 

Specifications: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-jour 

Movement: LV 104 Calibre: mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, “Poinçon de Genève” certification, visible on the face and back. Functions: Skeleton flying tourbillon, hours and minutes, V tourbillon cage fully rotating in one minute. Eighty hours of power reserve, 21,600 oscillations per hour.

Case: 41mm by 11.68mm platinum 950 and 18-karat white gold with polished and brushed finishes, anti-reflection sapphire crystal, transparent caseback, water-resistant to 50 meters.

Dial: Handmade plique-à-jour enamel dial crafted within the in-house workshop of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

Strap: Navy blue calf strap with platinum buckle.

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Arnold & Son Stays Thin in Gold & Platinum 

Arnold & Son continues to debut new editions within its impressive Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton collection. Two new models display the model’s architectural finesse in new case metals: 5N ‘red’ gold and platinum.

The new Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton Red Gold.

Still built within the same 41.5mm diameter by 8.4mm case size, the new models display this independent maker’s contemporary one-minute tourbillon prominently at the 6 o’clock position, flanked by rose-gold PVD bridges and nicely decorated with radiating Côtes de Genève stripes.

The new Arnold & Son Ultra Thin Tourbillon Skeleton Platinum.

On both models, a white opal dial displays the minutes and hours. The arrowhead on the staff of the tourbillon’s escape wheel serves as the watch’s seconds pointer.

The watchmaker’s 3.3mm-thick A&S8320 caliber movement is one of the thinnest skeleton tourbillons around. Its thinness is enhanced thanks to its lack of an upper bridge, which means the tourbillon is of the ‘flying’ variety. (See additional specifications below).

As with most Arnold & Son calibers, the power reserve of the Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton Red Gold and the UltraThin Tourbillon Skeleton Platinum is a spectacular 100 hours. Each model is a limited edition of twenty-eight pieces. 

Prices: Red gold: CHF 74,400, and platinum: CHF 86,200.

 

Specifications: Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton Red Gold and UltraThin Tourbillon Skeleton Platinum

(Red gold: 1UTBR.Z01A.C246R; Platinum: 1UTBX.Z01A.C245X)

Movement: 

Caliber A&S8320, 1-minute flying tourbillon, manual winding, mainplate is skeletonized, rose-gold PVD treatment (4N), Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the center. Bridges are skeletonized, rose-gold PVD treatment (4N), polished and chamfered by hand, Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the center. Tourbillon carriage has ‘Arnold & Son’ signature, polished, satin-finished and chamfered by hand. Wheels are circular satin-finished and screws are blued and chamfered with mirror-polished heads. Power reserve is 100 hours. Frequency is 21,600 vph.

Dial: White opal.

Case: 5N red gold or platinum (PT 950) measuring 41.50mm by 8.40mm (with domed sapphire crystal).Case back sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. Water-resistance to 30 meters.

Strap: Red gold: blue alligator leather, black alligator leather lining, hand-stitched. Platinum: brown alligator leather, black alligator leather lining, hand-stitched. Folding clasp in titanium with cover in red gold or platinum.

Prices: Red gold: CHF 74,400, and platinum: CHF 86,200.

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Louis Vuitton Teams with Rexhep Rexhepi

In the first of series of watches built in collaboration with independent watchmakers, Louis Vuitton in late 2023 launched the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie, developed by Louis Vuitton and the independent Geneva brand Atelier Akrivia (founded by watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi) in a redesigned Louis Vuitton Tambour case.

The Louis Vuitton/Atelier Akriva LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie.

The new watch, a luxurious double-faced chronograph with a chiming complication, is powered by an all-new tourbillon movement. The chiming function can be activated by the pusher at two o’clock, which will initiate a chime heard once per minute while engaged.

When compared with conventional movements, the new LVRR-01 caliber is inverted, with the chronograph and chiming mechanisms visible on the front with the more traditional displays on the back.

The cubic motif is a nod to the Spin Time jumping-hours display, one of Louis Vuitton’s patented complications.

Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have devised a contemporary look for the front side of the watch, opting for a modern tinted sapphire crystal that echoes the innovative dual functions placed there.

On the back, the watch offers a more traditional face, with a white grand feu enamel dial. This dial was designed by Rexhep Rexhepi and crafted by Nicolas Doublel, the in-house enameler at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Note that enamel dial echoes the look of the premiere wristwatch made by Louis Vuitton in 1988.

While the white-gold disc for the dial base is produced by Atelier Akrivia, the enamelling is completed by the in-house Louis Vuitton enamel atelier led by Nicolas Doublel.

The two watchmakers not only combined their watchmaking talents, but enshrined their dual efforts on the dial with a new logo. 

While at arms length the logo seems conventional, a closer look reveals a union of the two brand names. The ‘LV’ is incorporated into ‘AKRIVIA,’ which represents the first time in history that Louis Vuitton has combined its logo with of the logo of another brand. 

Historic tourbillon 

Beneath the LVRR-01’s tinted sapphire front, the tourbillon at the six o’clock position completes one revolution every five minutes, far slower than conventional tourbillons, but not unusual among older chronometers.

The innovative chiming chronograph that indicates elapsing minutes marks a first for a wristwatch, according to the watchmaker. However, the combination of elapsed time measurement with a striking mechanism has been used in pocket watches and more recently on Omega’s Speedmaster Chrono Chime, though the Omega chime operates in a different sequence.

Inside the LVRR-01’s tourbillon cage you’ll find a balance wheel with twin broad arms and eight inertial regulating weights, inspired by those found in marine chronometers.

For the chime, Atelier Akrivia has developed a black-polished steel hammer that strikes a tempered steel gong.

In order to power both the chronograph and the chiming mechanism, Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi have outfitted the movement with twin barrels, one power source for the timekeeping portion of the movement and the chronograph and another for the chime. Unusually however, the second barrel only supplies power when the chronograph/sonnerie is activated.

The case is somewhat thinner than the traditional Tambour shape, with its more streamlined form.

Louis Vuitton and Atelier Akrivia applied all this innovation within a 39.9mm platinum Tambour case with touches of Rexhep Rexhepi style. This means the case is somewhat thinner than the traditional Tambour shape, with its more streamlined form, sloping bezel and sculpted lugs.

Similarly the crown and pusher are seven-sided, as on Louis Vuitton watches, but they are hand-hammered in the Atelier Akrivia style with added chamfering on their edges.

The LVRR-01 is delivered in a unique Louis Vuitton traditional trunk.

Price: CHF 450,000, limited edition of ten.

Specifications: Louis Vuitton/Atelier Akriva LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie 

Movement: 

  • LVRR-01 caliber: Manual winding movement developed by Atelier Akrivia
  • Functions: Central hours and minutes, 5-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock; Chronograph à sonnerie (minutes & seconds)
  • 391 components, including 55 for the tourbillon only
  • 72-hour power reserve
  • 21,600 vibrations per hour
  • 41 jewels
  • Case:
    • Reinterpreted Tambour case
    • Diameter: 39.9 mm
    • Thickness: 12.2 mm
    • Water-resistant to 30 meters.
  • Front dial:
    • Smoked translucent sapphire dial
    • Six gold cubes filled with translucent Plique-à-jour
    fired enamel
    • 3N Gold railway and logo
  • Chronograph dial:
    • Traditional Grand Feu enamel on a palladium-gold base • Enamel dial features twin scales for hours and minutes
    Strap:
    • Natural calfskin leather
    Buckle:
    • Platinum ardillon buckle
    Trunk:
    • High watchmaking special trunk with hand-painted Monogram canvas.
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LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer Revisits Carrera Dato 

TAG Heuer revisits its 1968 Carrera Dato with a monochrome teal green TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph that features the Dato’s signature minute counter subdial at the three o’clock position and date window at the 9 o’clock position.

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph.

The new watch joins a slate of TAG Heuer debuts during LVMH Watch Week. Additional unveilings also include a Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with a teal green dial that matches the new chronograph, an Aquaracer Solargraph and a new Carrera Date Plasma model set with lab-grown diamonds.  

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph joins an expanding collection of Carrera models topped with the domed sapphire Glassbox crystal first seen on many of the watchmaker’s 2023 debuts. The Glassbox pays homage to domed hesalite crystal designs from the 1970s.

The new 39mm steel watch nicely melds TAG Heuer’s vintage design with technical updates and a few modern touches. These include circular brushed finishing and a slightly curved flange that runs along the edge of the dial, enhancing marker visibility.

The watch also showcases TAG Heuer’s impressive in-house Heuer 02 (TH20-07), which offers a strong eighty-hour power reserve and bidirectional automatic winding.

TAG Heuer attaches the new Carrera Chronograph to a black alligator leather strap. 

Price: $6,550. 

Also new in 2024:

TAG Heuer unveils this TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (pictured below) with its own teal green circular brushed dial. The 42mm watch features a tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock and is cased within the watchmaker’s Glassbox crystal.

The curved sapphire crystal provides the wearer with a clear view of the tourbillon.

Inside is the Heuer 02 – TH20-09 with bidirectional automatic winding. Price: $24,050. 

Also look for a notable expansion of the Aquaracer Professional Aquaracer Solargraph collection, now with a series 34mm steel-cased models, each with a different dial color and two with diamond markers.

The new size joins existing 40mm models and comes with the key features of the full Aquaracer collection: a unidirectional rotating bezel, screw-down crown, water resistance to 200 meters, luminous markings, sapphire crystal and a double safety clasp.

Of course, here the timekeeping is powered by light. Prices begin at $2,150. 

TAG Heuer also adds a new model to its glittering Carrera Date Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde series, adding a version with yellow diamonds.

The new 36mm white-gold-cased model, with a sparkling polycrystalline dial, features 4.8 carats of lab-grown diamonds and 1.4 carats of yellow lab-grown diamonds.

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