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MB&F adds an eye-catching light blue dial color to its collection of titanium-cased Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO watches, which the independent watchmaker first launched in 2020.

The new MB&F LM Perpetual EVO Blue

When MB&F debuted the EVO, it was a zirconium-cased, sportier version of the award-winning Legacy Machine Perpetual, initially decked out in an orange, blue or a black dial plate. MB&F then added a titanium-cased version with a green dial plate to the collection in 2021.

This latest edition retires that 2021 model, replacing it with the LM Perpetual EVO Blue, which  boasts a cool icy blue CVD dial plate.

The Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO built its sporty chassis and new hues around the original GPHG-award-winning Legacy Machine Perpetual from 2015, devised for MB&F by watchmaker Stephen McDonnell.

McDonnell effectively redesigned the traditional perpetual calendar when he built the LM Perpetual with a so-called ‘mechanical processor.’ Essentially a series of superimposed disks, the component makes the default number of days in the month at 28 and then adds the extra days as required by each individual month.  

McDonnell also built in a safety feature that disconnects the pushers during the date changeover to eliminate any risk of damage to the movement when the date is changed.

With the 2020 EVO edition, MB&F added a series of technical upgrades to that watch, effectively toughening its resistance to shocks and moisture. The EVO offers a redesigned, sleeker case, ergonomic double-sprung pushers, an integrated rubber strap, Super-LumiNova, a specially developed ‘FlexRing’ shock-absorbing system, a screw-down crown and 80 meters of water resistance.

MB&F is now shipping the new LM Perpetual EVO Blue with its all-new icy blue CVD dial to its retailers. Also look for a few in the MB&F eShop. Price: $198,000. 

 

Zenith launches its lightest Chronometer Sport with the new Chronomaster Sport Titanium, the latest model in the much-heralded collection powered by the Zenith El Primero 3600 high-speed automatic chronograph movement.

The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium.

In addition to using lightweight titanium to construct the 41mm case and bracelet, Zenith also offers the watch paired with an all-new integrated rubber strap design, an option that further reduces the watch’s overall weight.

In order to emphasize the new case-metal, which reduces the overall weight of the watch by thirty percent, Zenith artisans have given the new watch a largely satin-brushed finish, notably on the crown and pushers. Also differing from existing steel models, the titanium bezel, with its 1/10th-of-a-second scale, is finished with a sunburst satin-brushed decor. Similarly, Zenith polishes the edges of both the case and bracelet, the rim of the bezel and the back.

And since the new titanium casts a largely grey tone to the case, Zenith has added shades of grey to the Chronometer’s well-known tricolor sub-dials. Thus, amid the galvanic nickel-grey hue dial Zenith colors the chronograph counters in three different tones of anthracite, grey and silver.

The new strap options, available in black, blue, green and white, are made using supple FKM rubber, which Zenith calls thegold standard of rubber.” As usual, you’ll have an unobstructed view of the El Primero 3600, with its blue column wheel, open-work rotor and Zenith star logo.

Price: $11,800 on titanium bracelet or $11,300 on new FKM rubber strap in a choice of black, blue, green or white.  

Grand Seiko adds two watches to its ‘snowflake’ series of watches known for their particularly rich white-patterned dial inspired by the pristine snow-covered landscapes of Shinshu, Japan.

The two new quartz-powered references, SBGX355 and STGF385, present the eye-catching dial pattern in different sizes and within different case materials.

One model (SBGX355, above) features a mid-sized (37mm) titanium case and bracelet while the second model (below) measures 28.9mm in diameter and features a stainless steel case, a diamond-set bezel and a steel bracelet.

On the larger model, a dual-curved sapphire crystal protects the crisp white dial. Inside Grand Seiko fits its superb quartz Caliber 9F62 that operates with an accuracy of ±10 seconds per year.

The smaller model, STGF385, is a more luxurious with a bezel set with 44 diamonds.

This is a fairly thin watch, measuring 8.8mm from top to back, and its subtle gem-set accent only enhances the snowflake dial, echoing ice atop a new snowfall. Grand Seiko’s quartz Caliber 4J52 powers the hands.

Prices:  $3,800 (SBGX355) and $5,500 (STGF385).

Specifications: 

Grand Seiko SBGX355

  • Case Material : High-intensity Titanium
  • Case Diameter : 37mm
  • Case Thickness : 10mm
  • Case Length : 44.6mm
  • Lug Width : 19mm
  • Dial Color : White
  • Crown : Push Crown
  • Strap/Bracelet : High-intensity Titanium w. three-fold clasp
  • Crystal : Dual Curve Sapphire
  • Caseback : High-intensity Titanium
  • Caliber : 9F62
  • Type : Quartz
  • Power Source : Battery
  • Jewels : 9
  • Accuracy : ± 10 seconds per year
  • Duration : 3 Year Battery
  • Features : Time, Date
  • Water Resistance : 100m
  • Magnetic Resistance : 4,800 A/m

Price: $3,800. 

 

Grand Seiko STGF385

  • Case Material : Stainless Steel w/ 44 diamonds (0.39 carat) on bezel
  • Case Diameter : 28.9mm
  • Case Thickness : 8.8mm
  • Case Length : 35.4mm
  • Lug Width : 14mm
  • Dial Color : White
  • Crown : Push Crown
  • Strap/Bracelet : Stainless Steel w. three-fold clasp
  • Crystal : Dual Curve Sapphire
  • Caseback : Stainless Steel
  • Caliber : 4J52
  • Type : Quartz
  • Power Source : Battery
  • Jewels : 7
  • Accuracy : ±10 seconds per year
  • Duration : 3 Year Battery
  • Features : Time, Date
  • Water Resistance : 100m
  • Magnetic Resistance : 4,800 A/m
  • Price: $5,500. 

 

Greubel Forsey launches Balancier 3, a thinner and less pricey model within its double-curve-case Convexe collection.

The new Greubel Forsey Balancier 3.

The new 41.5mm x 13.55mm titanium watch retains the watchmaker’s emblematic arched bridge and multi-level architecture, but here the case lugs no longer have screws—a first for Greubel Forsey.

The watch’s three prominent bridges and its namesake balance wheel dominate the dial. One bridge houses the barrel, the second holds the large (12.6mm) balance wheel, and the third is attached to the seconds counter, supporting the hour and minute hands.

All the bridges feature Greubel Forsey’s signature hand finishes: a curved polished surface, polished bevels and hand-polished screws.

Both of the watch’s two series-coupled fast-rotating barrels (one turn in 3.2 hours) are also quite prominent at the top of the dial. The barrels provide a chronometric power reserve of three full days.

In another first for the Convexe collection, Greubel Forsey has placed the Balancier 3’s power reserve indicator on the caseback.

The watchmaker will make the new Balancier 3 with either a black or blue dial, each limited to eighty-eight pieces with a rubber strap or a Greubel Forsey titanium bracelet upon request.

Price: $182,000. 

Ulysse Nardin dresses its Freak One in khaki and black to unveil the Freak One Ops, a military styled version of its groundbreaking flying carrousel movement watch.

The new Ulysse Nardin Freak One Ops.

This newest Freak retains the same specifications and black DLC case of the Freak One that the watchmaker debuted earlier in 2023. That watch (recently named winner of the Iconic Watch Prize at the 2023 GPHG) combined several favorite Freak designs from the past. These include the notched bezel of the original 2001 Freak, the open gear train seen on the 2013 Freak Cruiser, plus the high-legibility of the 2018 Freak Vision.

Here, Ulysse Nardin offers a more casual version of the earlier design. Instead of the earlier watch’s luxurious gold-finished bezel and movement we see a carbon bezel, a khaki green palette and a sunray patterned barrel cover, creating a stealthier version of the watch.

As noted, the 44mm Freak One Ops maintains all the Freak One’s ‘no hands, no dial and no crown’ technical features, anchored by the highly-visible UN-240 self-winding movement with a 90-hour power reserve.

The movement’s flying carousel, silicon balance wheel and escapement are suspended by a bridge that acts as the minute hand while the second bridge serves as the hour hand.

The Freak One Ops is regulated by a silicon hairspring (which Ulysse Nardin introduced in 2008) with an escapement treated with the synthetic diamond and silicon plasma treatment called DIAMonSIL, which Ulysse Nardin added to the Freak in 2007.

Ulysse Nardin offers the Freak One Ops with a choice of two integrated straps: one in black and khaki “ballistic” rubber, and an alternate two-tone recycled-rubber strap, also in black and khaki. Both have black DLC titanium and black ceramic folding clasps.

Price: $66,500.