Tag

The Watches

Browsing
The Watches

Chronoswiss Unveils New Strike Two Collection 

 

Chronoswiss twists its regulator display from vertical to horizontal with the all-new Strike Two Series, a limited edition collection with two dial-side bridges and a stunning hand-guilloched seconds dial.

The new Chronoswiss Strike Two H2O.

Echoing existing Chronoswiss regulator-dial watches with a vertical layout, such as its Open Gear series, the new Strike Two offers a familiar, contemporary Chronoswiss look, but with a slimmer, smaller case that places its hour subdial at the 3 o’clock position instead of at the top of the dial.

The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gears

Similarly, Chronoswiss has also rotated the seconds dial, here located at the 9 o’clock position. The primary hand, indicating minutes, remains centrally positioned as is the case with most regulator dials.

Measuring 40mm in diameter, smaller than most 42mm Open Gear models, and with a 12.7mm thickness, Strike Two’s horizontal layout is not a first for this Lucerne-based independent, which introduced the design in its Tora collection in the 1990s. 

But while the Tora series primarily featured a dual-time indicator with its 24-hour subdial, the new Strike Two is decidedly a local time affair. 

Two models

Chronoswiss offers two models in the new collection, the H2O and the Golden Gear, each released as a limited edition of one-hundred pieces.

Both are cased in steel, with the H20 model boasting a light blue CVD dial and the Golden Gear edition presenting a slate-colored satin-finished dial with gold accents.

Called Strike Two to call attention to the movement’s twin bridges, the new series also showcases the watch’s gear work, which is notably visible underneath the hour ring.

Known for its beautiful hand-guilloched craftsmanship, Chronoswiss places a sample of this artisanal expertise within the small second dial, which is beautifully finished with a floral pattern.

For Strike Two, Chronoswiss has redesigned its onion crown, creating a slightly smaller version than we’ve seen previously, and adding a flattened end cap.

Inside each watch Chronoswiss fits new Chronoswiss Manufacture Caliber C.6000, developed in collaboration with La Joux-Perret and previously seen in a slightly different guise powering the revamped Chronoswiss Delphis.

The movement features a 55-hour power reserve, a ruthenium-coated finish, a tungsten rotor, radial Côtes de Genève finishing and a skeletonized gear train.

Price: CHF 9,800. 

 

Specifications: Chronoswiss Strike Two 

(References: CH-5023-BLSI (H2O) / CH-5023-ANGO (Golden Gear), Limited Edition of 100 each.) 

Case: 40mm by 12.7mm solid 17-part stainless steel case, ground and polished, polished bezel with fluted decorative ring on the side and domed, double anti-reflective sapphire crystal; screwed and satin-finished case back with sapphire crystal, onion crown, water-resistant to 3 bar, screwed strap links.

Movement: Chronoswiss manufacture caliber C. 6000 (collaboration with La Joux-Perret), automatic with skeletonized rotor made of tungsten, ball bearing; armature, escape wheel and screws polished; bridge with Geneva cut, ruthenium plated,  55-hours power reserve. 

Dial: Horizontal regulator, hour display at 3 o’clock (open gear with two vertical bridges), central minute, second at 9 o’clock, hand guilloché. SuperLumiNova indexes. Bottom level with vertical satinage (Golden Gear) or stamped and CVD-Coated (H2O).

Strap: Calfskin with alligator embossing, rubber optional. 

Price: CHF 9,800. 

 

 

by
Keep Reading
The Watches

Breitling Celebrates Orbiter 3

 

Breitling launches the new Aerospace B70 Orbiter to celebrate of the twenty-fifth anniversary of the Breitling Orbiter 3, which made the first nonstop balloon flight around the world on March 21, 1999.

The new Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter.

The 43mm by 12.95mm titanium-cased watch, which retains the thermo-compensated SuperQuartz analog and digital movement of Breitling’s ongoing Aerospace series, commemorates the Orbiter flight in several ways.

 

The watch’s dial color echoes the bright orange hue of the Orbiter’s capsule, and Breitling has affixed a segment of the original balloon into the watch, making it fully visible through the transparent caseback.

On the back you’ll also see the Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo around the perimeter with the inscription “First non-stop flight around the world 25th anniversary.”

Breitling has updated the COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Caliber B70 that powers the new watch. The caliber, which effectively displays time measurement with ten times the accuracy of a standard quartz watch, powers numerous functions. These include a 1/100th of a second chronograph (with split-time and flyback functions), countdown timer, second timezone, two alarms, lap function, and perpetual calendar.

On the dial of the new  Aerospace B70 Orbiter you’ll see the Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo on the dial, which indicates the time with luminescent numerals, indexes, and hands.

Breitling offers the new watch on either a titanium bracelet or a black rubber strap with a folding clasp.

 

Prices: $4,700 (rubber strap) and $4,900 (titanium bracelet).

 

Specifications: Breitling Aerospace B70 Orbiter  

Reference: EB70101A1O1E1 or EB70101A1O1S1

Movement: 

Caliber: Breitling Manufacture Caliber B70

Diameter: 34.8 millimeters

Depth: 5.85 millimeters

Movement: SuperQuartz, thermo-compensated quartz, electronic,

analog and 12/24 hr LCD digital display; EOL indicator, power reserve is approx. 2 years battery life.

Chronograph: 1/100th second, max. 99 hrs 59 min. 59 sec., flyback function, electronic tachymeter, chronograph (lap timer, flight times).

Other functions: countdown timer, 2nd timezone, alarm

Calendar: digital, day and date programmed for 4 years

Certification: COSC-certified

Case:

Material: Titanium

Diameter: 43 millimeters

Thickness: 12.95 millimeters

Height (upper lug tip to lower lug tip): 52.25 millimeters

Water resistance: up to 100 meters

Glass: sapphire crystal, glare-proofed on both sides

Caseback: titanium with screws

Pushers: three integrated push pieces

Bezel: bidirectional, ratcheted

Dial: Orange with Super-LumiNova luminescent numerals, indexes, and hands.

Strap: Titanium bracelet or black rubber strap with folding clasp.

Prices: $4,700 (rubber strap) and $4,900 (titanium bracelet) 

by
Keep Reading
The Watches

Blancpain Adds Gold and Titanium to 42mm Fifty Fathoms 

Blancpain adds new models to its Fifty Fathoms Automatique collection, which the manufacture first launched in its new 42.3mm by 14.2mm size last year as a limited edition in steel.

The newest models of this famed dive watch, which debuted in 1953 to usher in the modern dive watch era, now include Automatique series examples in red gold and titanium in addition to the steel-cased version now included within the ongoing Fifty Fathoms Automatique collection. 

Caliber 1315

You might recall that in 2007 Blancpain launched the first 45mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique, which was equipped with specially developed Caliber 1315 with a five-day power reserve.

The newest Fifty Fathoms series adds the smaller diameter option to the full collection and makes it  available in three case metals.

In red gold, the watches are a bit more luxurious than a standard dive model, but equally functional and still highly legible.

In Grade 23 titanium, the watches are sportier looking, with the added bonus of offering a lightweight and highly scratch-resistant case, as well as superior anti-corrosion and anti-allergenic attributes.

All retain the collection’s characteristic sapphire-topped bezel and serious dive-ready specifications (including 300-meters of water resistance.) 

Available with a blue or black dial, the new red gold and titanium models are offered with an alluring choice of color-matched straps, including sail-canvas, NATO straps and textured rubber iteration inspired by the first model from 1953. For the titanium debut, Blancpain also offers a sharp-looking titanium bracelet.

Prices start at $15,700 in steel and $17,000 in titanium. Red gold model starts at $34,100. 

by
Keep Reading
The Watches

Azimuth’s Supersonic Aircraft 

 

By Steve Huyton

Approximately twelve years ago I walked into The Hourglass, a specialist watch boutique in Sydney, and it changed my perception about horology. 

At this time there was a new wave of high contemporary brands like De Bethune, MB&F and Urwerk. These amazing labels were pushing the boundaries of watchmaking with radical designs and unusual materials. Some of their pieces were exceptionally futuristic in appearance with extraordinarily complicated mechanical movements. 

Unfortunately, the issue for the consumer was these watches (due to price point) are inaccessible to most. This is where Swiss/Singapore brand Azimuth found a niche in the market. Ultimately, Azimuth has created Avant-Garde designs at more affordable cost, and a brilliant example can be found in the newly released Land Cruiser.

The Azimuth Land Cruiser

Azimuth co-founder Chris Long says the “Land Cruiser is a testament to Azimuth’s enduring love affair between imagination and science fiction, fused into the realm of horology. It’s a rugged hovercraft with off-road capabilities that embarks on a highly classified military project to a newly formed planet 500 light years away.”

Certainly looking at the brand’s DNA this influence is highly apparent in all of its designs. Previously I wrote an article called Ode to Mr. Roboto, which chronicles the evolution of this amazing timepiece, which is inspired by 1960s toy robots. 

The Land Cruiser is a totally different entity that involved four years of fastidious research and development. Looking at the finished result the end definitely justifies the means.

The Landship 

In 2010, Azimuth launched the SP-1 Landship, its most ambitious watch to date. Inspired by a World War I military tank, the watch exudes very large proportions and has a 51mm x 44mm x 20mm titanium case. Subsequently, the brand unveiled six hand-painted replica tank versions (of the SP-1 Landship) at Krasnaya, The Watch Art Gallery in Singapore. 

Even though today’s Land Cruiser resembles the original Landship, the overall design in my opinion is far more sophisticated.

For example, the satin-brushed scaled-down case (which supersonic aircraft’s afterburner) has chiseled sides and a top-mounted crown. This makes the façade much sleeker and ergonomic on the wrist. Time is displayed by the domed wondering hour (12 o’clock position) and via a slanted retrograde minute aperture (6 o’clock position).

Powering the watch is a highly modified Swiss automatic movement supplied by Sellita. The Caliber SW200-1 comprises 26 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This exquisite Perlage finished mechanism is visibly showcased via a sapphire crystal exhibition-style window.

Caseback view of the Azimuth Land Cruiser.

Functionally the Land Cruiser features regulator hours (via a sapphire crystal dome) and retrograde minutes. The watch also is water resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of forty hours. To complete the picture, the Land Cruiser is presented on a rubber strap with a folding buckle and is housed in a special military ammo box.

The Azimuth Land Cruiser is limited to 100 pieces worldwide and retails at CHF 6,800 (approximately $7,750).

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

by
Keep Reading
The Watches

Louis Vuitton’s Cabinet of Wonders

Louis Vuitton presents three highly artisanal Louis Vuitton Escale watches, each combining engraving, enameling, sculpture and even marquetry in timepieces that explore themes inspired by nature and by fantasy.

One of three debuts announcing the Louis Vuitton Escale series of artisans watches. The watch is called Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders Koi’s Garden.

The new Escale series follows Louis Vuitton’s equally ambitious update to its Tambour collection and represents a new, high-end approach to the watchmaker’s artisanal watches.  Escale watches will all feature a round case and hand-polished case horns meant to recall the metal brackets of Louis Vuitton trunks. 

Called the Cabinet of Wonders, the trio of limited-edition watches that introduce Escale are inspired by the personal collections of Gaston-Louis Vuitton, third-generation member of the company’s founding family who led the company from 1907 to 1970. 

Gaston-Louis Vuitton was collector of fine decorative objects, including antique and highly decorated Japanese katana sword guards, which directly influenced the design and symbolism of these new watches.

By combining a full range of artisanal case-making and dial-making techniques to these watches, Louis Vuitton continues its enhance its reputation as one of the few makers of high-end watches that has mastered a full range of traditional decorative techniques. 

Louis Vuitton’s fine watchmaking department in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps, creates this series through a well-considered blend of internal expertise and external talent, including Eddy Jaquet (engraving), Fanny Queloz (damascening), Rose Saneuil (marquetry) and Vanessa Lecci (enameling). The internal and external team followed the aesthetic vision of famed métiers d’art timepiece designer Marie Boutteçon.

Garden of tranquillity

This watch, called Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders Koi’s Garden, is a 40mm white gold stunner that depicts two carp swimming in a stream, surrounded by colorful pebbles. 

Louis Vuitton notes that its artisans needed fully 150 hours to carefully hand-sculpt the koi. Kiln-firing added a fine layer of dark oxide to the carp, while polishing and painting finish the overall effect. The koi are coated with a translucent blue lacquer in order to make them glisten in the light.

Artisans hand-engraved the water lines onto the white-gold dial plate, where Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s personal monogram is seen at the 6 o’clock position, also sculpted from gold and set with onyx.

Into the forest

On the Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders Snake’s Jungle, a jeweled blue and green snake rears its head at an orb of gold and nephrite jade that forms the monogram of Gaston-Louis Vuitton.

The dial’s bamboo forest is made using marquetry techniques. These required the artisan to cut and hand-assemble wood, parchment and straw in a way that depicts fourteen shades of green.

The artists required 367 individual pieces to complete the dial puzzle, which utilizes four varieties of wood, three colors of straw and two types of parchment.

For the serpent, artisans combined three techniques: micro-sculpture, engraving and champlevé enameling. Sculpted, engraved and enameled bamboo leaves
frame the upper right corner of the dial.

Dragons

For this watch, called the Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders Dragon’s Cloud, artisans have created a rose gold triptyque depicting that is clutching a carnelian-set GLV monogram.

Here the artisans used technique called damascening, which is a form of decorative inlay using metals of contrasting colors. The resulting layered pattern mimics many natural textures.

The watch’s dial plate is hammered to a matte finish, after which yellow-gold or rose-gold wires are cold-worked into the plate. The dragon and the clouds are engraved and the scales are enameled.

Notably, the lower half of its body is created using paillonné enamel, a rare form of enamel that contains tiny pieces of gold leaf (known as paillons) suspended between layers of translucent enamel.

Finally, the dragon’s eye appears to glow because it is composed of a cabochon-cut ruby.

New cases & hands

All the new Escale watches feature a new, lightly curved case that frames a domed crystal. Louis Vuitton has reworked its hour and minute hands, which now are lance-shaped and polished and faceted to reflect the light.

All three watches also feature a crown set with the same stone that adorns the corresponding GLV monogram on its dial. Inside Louis Vuitton fits its chronometer-rated manufacture caliber LFT023, which is decorated with Seigaiha waves, a stylized representation of the ocean found in traditional Japanese iconography.

Each new Louis Vuitton Escale watch is paired with a calf-leather strap, hand-braided to resemble the braided leather hilts of Japanese katana swords.

Each of the three models of the Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders collection is limited to twenty pieces. The Koi’s Garden comes in a white-gold case (40mm) with blue strap; the Snake’s Jungle comes in a white-gold case (40mm) with green strap; and the Dragon’s Cloud comes in a rose-gold case (40mm) with brown strap. 

Prices upon request. 

by
Keep Reading