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Parmigiani Fleurier Launches Tonda PF Sport 

Parmigiani Fleurier launches a pair of sporty models within its Tonda PF collection, adding the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph and Tonda PF Sport Automatic, two models that effectively replace the watchmaker’s Tonda GT collection.

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, available in a 42mm steel or rose gold case.

Both watches extend the watchmaker’s Tonda PF collection, first introduced two years ago as a slate of knurled platinum-bezel dress models with clean dials and revamped bracelets.

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic is available in a 41mm steel or rose gold case.

The new ‘tailored’ approach to the design drew has drawn strong collector acclaim. The watchmaker has responded with a series of high-profile rattrapante designs and complicated models within the expanding Tonda PF collection.

Parmigiani Fleurier offers the new models in both steel and rose gold. As sporty watches within a fairly dressy collection, both the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph and Tonda PF Sport Automatic display design touches that confirm their sportier appeal, including a bolder bezel and broader guilloché dial pattern.

The knurled bezel on each Tonda PF Sport watch features 160 cuts rather than the finer 225-incision bezel found on the dressier Tonda PF collection.

The new dial features a hand guilloché ‘triangular nail’ pattern known as clou triangulaire, a sportier look when compared to the guilloché grain d’orge of the existing Tonda PF collection.

In addition, Parmigiani Fleurier coats the applied hour markers here with black SuperLuminova while also supplying each watch with a rubber-treated textured and stitched strap. Both watches are water-resistant to 100 meters.

For the 42mm by 12.9mm ‘panda’-style chronograph, Parmigiani Fleurier has removed the large date found on the firm’s previous GT chronographs in order to leave space for the PF logo.

This mimics the dial on the current, dressier, Tonda PF chronographs. The (smaller) date is now found between the 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock position. In addition, the new design features shorter indexes and a somewhat smaller flange.

Similarly, on the 41mm by 9.8mm Tonda PF Sport Automatic the watchmaker places a small date aperture at the 6 o’clock position to allow for a clean dial marked only by a logo at the 12 o’clock position.

The PF Tonda Sport Chronograph displays its Caliber PF070 movement via a clear sapphire back.

Inside the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Parmigiani Fleurier fits its stunning Caliber PF070, a superb high-frequency (5Hz – 36,000 vph) manufacture movement with an integrated column wheel chronograph and a vertical clutch. The COSC-certified chronometer offers a power reserve of sixty-five hours.

A view of the caliber PF770 from the back of the Tonda PF Sport Automatic.

Inside the Tonda PF Sport Automatic you’ll find a Caliber PF770 with a serial-mounted double barrel and a power reserve of sixty hours. To extend the sporty design, the watchmaker also created a new, skeletonized oscillating weight for both watches. The watchmaker says the rotor now looks somewhat like the steering wheel of a Ferrari 250 GTO. 

Prices: $50,200 (chronograph in rose gold), $29,000 (chronograph in steel), $38,200 (automatic in rose gold) and $21,300 (automatic in steel). 

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The Watches

Citizen Expands Series 8 with GMT Models

Citizen expands its Series 8 collection of automatic watches with a highly anti-magnetic GMT model. Offered in three contemporary designs, including one limited-edition gold-colored model, the new watches add a highly practical function to the offerings within this much-acclaimed Citizen collection.

One of three new Citizen Series 8 automatic GMT models.

With their traditional GMT function, the new watches allow the wearer to read the time in up to three time zones via the bi-directional rotating bezel.

The bezel colors are split into daytime and nighttime hues, represented by blue and black on the black-dialed model and red and light blue on the model with the dark blue dial.

Citizen created a dial designed to mimic Tokyo at night with a pattern meant to recall skyscrapers and windows of different sizes. The pattern updates a classic checkerboard design, which in Japan are said to represent prosperity.

Citizen finishes the 41mm by 13.5mm steel case on the two ongoing models with both mirror and brushed finishes with multiple patterns. Automatic caliber 9054 is visible through the clear caseback. Citizen adds strong magnetic resistance to the caliber and case, which helps the watch maintain average daily accuracy of-10 to +20 seconds and a fifty-hour running time.

The yellow-gold-colored Series 8 GMT is a limited-edition of 1,300 pieces worldwide. Citizen explains that its designers were inspired by the “warm golden rays of the autumn sun in Japan” when coloring the case, bracelet and dial.

The embossed dial pattern here is particularly impressive. Meant to recall the appearance of light and shade created by long autumn grass during the sunset, it elevates the visual appeal of this limited edition with an artisanal approach not typically seen at this price level.

Here, Citizen frames the dial with a pleasing brown and cream-colored GMT bi-directional bezel. And like the ongoing GMT models, this limited edition also exposes its Caliber 9054 movement through a clear caseback. 

Prices: $1,795 (limited edition) and $1,695.

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The Watches

Bulova Adds Two to Marine Star

Bulova expands its nautically inspired Marine Star collection with a dramatic automatic model and an eye-catching orange-dialed quartz chronograph.

The new Bulova Marine Star Series A watch.

The 45mm steel-cased automatic Marine Star Series A watch shows off its mechanical heart by exposing the Miyota Caliber 82S5 movement’s escapement through an aperture on the dial and its rotor though the clear case back.

Bulova surrounds that ticking space with a sunburst-finished central dial and a sun-ray textured hour track. Orange accents enliven the dial even more on the running sub-seconds dial and the Arabic minutes markers.

The sporty watch is water resistant to 200 meters with the assistance of a screw-down crown.

Bulova pairs the watch with a matching silver-tone stainless steel bracelet with a push-button deployant clasp. Price: $650. 

The new Bulova Series B Marine Star Chronograph features a silver-tone 43.5mm stainless steel case with brushed and polished facets framing a bright orange dial that some collectors may recognize from Bulova’s famed Devil Diver.

The new Bulova Series B Marine Star Chronograph.

Black accents pair with silver-tone polished stainless steel hands and applied markers, all treated with luminescent material.

Bulova completes the dial with an internal rotating 60-minute timing case ring operated by the 10 o’clock crown.

Bulova fits the new watch with a matching silver-tone stainless steel bracelet with brushed and polished finishing and an extendable sport fold-over clasp with pushers and a safety bar. Price: $525. 

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Featured Events

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts in Tokyo

In addition to the wristwatches Patek Philippe is currently debuting during its the grand exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, the Geneva watchmaker is also  displaying a spectacular new collection of ‘rare handcrafts’ models, including dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches, each decorated with artisanal dial and case work inspired by Japanese culture.

In all, Patek Philippe is unveiling a collection of forty creations (eight dome clocks, five table clocks, nine pocket watches and eighteen wristwatches), all one-of-a-kind or limited-edition pieces. Each pays tribute to hand engraving, hand-executed guilloché work, gemsetting and various forms of enameling. The exhibition also presents a selection of some 190 pieces belonging to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.

Below we’ve assembled a selection of the rare handcrafts items on display at the exhibition in Tokyo until June 25.

Kyudo pocket watch with miniature painting on enamel, flinqué enamel and hand engraving.
The Japanese garden decor on the case back was hand-engraved and hand-guilloched, and then coated with translucent and opalescent enamels, a technique known as flinqué enamel.

 

The Katagami pocket watch with hand-engraving.
The case back was first hand engraved with a pattern of vertical grooves using line engraving and chased to obtain alternating matte and shining finishes suggesting textile fibers.

 

The Portrait of a Samouri is a pocket watch with case back in wood marquetry and dial in enamel.

 

Shizuoka and Mount Fuji pocket watch with cloisonné enamel, flinqué enamel and hand-engraving.

 

Opposite side of the Shizuoka and Mount Fuji pocket watch.

 

The Eagle pocket watch in cloisonné enamel, paillonné enamel and miniature painting on enamel.

 

Close-up on the dial of the Eagle pocket watch..

 

The Snow-Covered Landscape Golden Ellipse wristwatch with dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.

 

Bird on a Red Maple is a ladies’ minute repeater wristwatch with dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.

 

Hanami dome table clock in cloisonné and paillonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.
The Japanese Stamps Dome table clock in cloisonné enamel with hand-engraving.
The stamp motifs were rendered by hand with line engraving and coated with translucent brown enamels to create the effect of shadows and patina.

 

 

 

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Featured News

Patek Philippe Debuts Complications in Tokyo 

For its grand exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, which is open through June 25, Patek Philippe launches six limited editions, including a new Quadruple Complication (Reference 5308P-010) and the first World Time watch equipped with a date display synchronized with local time (Reference 5330G-010).

The new Patek Philippe self-winding Reference 5308P-010 combines a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar.

Patek Philippe also debuted a new edition of its World Time Minute Repeater (Reference 5531R-014) and ladies’ Moon Phase model (Reference 7121/200G-010). The watchmaker also added two new Calatrava models (References 6127G-010 and 7127G-010) especially made for the Japanese market. All other Special Editions will also be offered primarily in Japan, with prices on request. 

In addition to these wristwatches, Patek Philippe also created a new collection of ‘rare handcrafts’ models, including dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches, each decorated with artisanal dial and case work inspired by Japanese culture. We’ll show you these spectacular works of horological art in a second post tomorrow. 

The Minute Repeater

This Quadruple Complication (Reference 5308P-010) is a limited edition of fifteen watches and as noted above unites a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar in apertures.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5308P

Patek Philippe explains that its watchmakers were inspired by the existing Triple Complication Reference 5208 from 2011, with minute repeater, chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar. To add the split-seconds mechanism, which requires more energy to operate, watchmakers devised a new platinum mini-rotor in order to increase winding power.

 

The resulting new caliber (R CHR 27 PS QI, with 799 parts),offers two patented inventions that reduce energy consumption with regard to the clutch and the split seconds.

 

The instantaneous perpetual calendar ensures instant advance of the day, date and month disks. Patek Philippe delivers the watch with two interchangeable case backs: one in sapphire crystal adorned with the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo” and the other in solid platinum engraved with the same wording. 

The World Time Minute Repeater 

This limited edition Reference 5531R-014 will be made a a limited edition of fifteen watches.

The Ref. 5531R features a self-winding R 27 HU caliber combining a minute repeater with the World Time display.

At its center you’ll see a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel decoration representing the historic Chuo district in the center of Tokyo. The name “Tokyo” appears in red on the city disk.

 

Patek Philippe originally launched the watch in 2017 as the first minute repeater that always chimes the local time, which is displayed by a pierced hour hand in rose gold. Echoing the other minute repeater, this model is delivered with two interchangeable case backs.

World Timer Tokyo

Patek Philippe has endowed this new World Time model with a patented world first: a date display synchronized with local time (the time zone selected at the 12 o’clock position and displayed by the center hands.)

This new World Time model Reference 5330G is endowed with a patented world first date display synchronized with local time.

The watch’s plum-colored dial is embellished with a hand guilloched center while its date display is located on the beveled dial flange and indicated via a center hand in glass with a red tip. To further customize the watch, Patek Philippe has placed the name “Tokyo” in red on the city disk. Furthermore, Japan’s national emblem replaces the classic sun symbol on the 24-hour disk.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5330G, details. 

The watch is a 40mm polished white-gold model with curved two-tier fluted lugs and is worn on a strap in shiny black alligator leather with plum-colored hand stitching, secured by a fold-over clasp in white gold.

 

The sapphire-crystal back is adorned with the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo”. 

Ladies’ Moon-Phase

A year after Patek Philippe launched a new edition of this model, the watchmaker adds a special edition version (Reference 7121/200G-010) as a limited edition of 200 watches.

This model with pearly gray dial and strap is a variation on a ladies’ moon phase watch launched in 2022.

The watch’s classic round Calatrava case in white gold (diameter 33 mm) with an Officer’s style design in pearl grey with rounded flanks, straight lugs with screwed strap bars. Around the dial we see two rows of diamonds in a lace setting.

 

Inside Patek Philippe fits its excellent manual-wind caliber 215 PS LU, the smallest complicated movement made by Patek Philippe.

 

The transparent sapphire-crystal back bears the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo”. 

Two Calatrava References 

Patek Philippe created a new Calatrava case that emphasizes two-tier fluted and bezeled lugs for these two models (Ref. 6127G-010 and Ref. 7127G-010).

The men’s Reference 6127G-010, measuring 36mm in diameter, is distinguished by its light blue lacquered dial.

Launched as a pair, the watches display white gold baton-style applied hour markers and cheveu-style hands.

 

The men’s Reference 6127G-010 (diameter 36 mm) features a light-blue lacquer dial and a matching shiny alligator-leather strap.

This 31mm Calatrava 7127G features lugs inspired by Reference 5270.

The smaller model, measuring 31mm in diameter, offers a lilac colored dial. Both feature white-gold cases engraved with“Patek Philippe – Tokyo”. Inside each is a caliber 215 PS manually wound movement.

 

Patek Philippe offers them in Japan as two editions limited to 400 watches each, of which 300 are sold as a set in a double presentation box for the two watches, while 100 may be acquired separately. 

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