During LVMH Watch Week 2023, Bulgari launched new models in its jeweled Divas’ Dream and Allegra collections. In addition, Bulgari has designed new bracelets and added new curves on new models in the snake-themed Serpenti Tubogas andSerpenti Seduttori collections.
Divas’ Dream and Allegra
Look for new hues in Bulgari’s highly jeweled, dangly Allegra watch collection. New models mixtopaz, tanzanite, amethyst, tourmaline, ruby and pink or yellow sapphire.
And within the Divas’ Dream and the two new Divas’ Dream Mosaica models, rose gold or white gold watches are outfitted with quartz or mechanical movements while the Allegra models show the time with a quartz movement.
Prices begin at 32,100 euros, or about $34,000.
Serpenti Tubogas Infinity
A year after Bulgari debuted the smallest round mechanical movement, the Piccolissimo caliber BVL 100, into its Serpenti High Jewelry models, the watchmaker/jeweler introduces Serpenti Tubogas Infinity. Here and for the first time, the famed serpentine shape continues from the watch case all the way to the bracelet.
To make the leap, Bulgari has added gems to the bracelet’s modular construction. Artisans mold each ring on the bracelet separately before then polishing, setting them with gems and assembling them on a titanium blade.
Serpenti Seduttori
Two new Serpenti Seduttori models offer deep black lacquered dials. One addition is cased in steel and another made of steel with a rose gold bezel and central bracelet links..
Here, Bulgari again creates ahexagonal scaglie (scale) bracelet that appears to merge seamlessly into the snakehead case. Both new 33mm models ares set with a quartz movement and a cabochon-cut pink rubellite crown. Prices: 5,400 euros (steel) and 9,400 euros (steel with rose gold bezel).
Ulysse Nardin celebrates the Year of the Rabbit in the traditional Chinese Zodiac with the Classico Rabbit, a 40mm rose-gold-cased limited edition watch with a stunning champlevé and cloisonné dial depicting the symbol of good fortune for 2023.
Starting with a sketch, artisans at Ulysse Nardin’s dial workshop Donzé Cadrans carve directly into the rabbit motif dial, creating individual “cells” that they then fill with enamel. The artisans then fire the enamel, smooth and polish it. They then carefully enrich the scene by chiseling metal elements onto the surface.
Ulysse Nardin also applies textured cloisonné elements to the dial for added three-dimensional effect.
To do this artisans create compartments using a very thin gold wire to deposit enamel with hyper precision. For the Classico Rabbit, this gold-wire folding represents up to fifteen working hours per dial, according to Ulysse Nardin.
At the Donzé Cadrans workshop, this high-level of craftsmanship is applied to a wide range of Ulysse Nardin watches. Collections benefits from the application of an array of enameling techniques, including Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé and Flinqué.
The Le Locle-based watchmaker will produce the Classico Rabbit in a limited-edition series of 88 timepieces, each powered by the UN-815 automatic movement. The watch arrives with a black alligator strap with a rose-gold buckle and a clear sapphire caseback.
Franck Muller teams with acclaimed Paris-based artist Hom Nguyen to create the Cintrée Curvex Double Mystery, a unique piece with a tourbillon at 6 o’clock and an artistic dial meant to represent the face of a child looking up to the sky.
On the watch, which Franck Muller debuted earlier this year and is just now making available, the artist draws directly on the matte black Curvex dial to create an emotionally charged design that “embodies the trajectories of human lives,” according to the Franck Muller.
Without hands, the dial’s signature Double Mystery design depicts time using two rotating discs. The full face of the child in the artwork takes full shape when the discs are perfectly aligned at 12 o’clock.
The manual-wind watch, which offers a power reserve of sixty hours, is packaged in a special box also designed by Nguyen. The case is a box entirely decorated with the faces of children the artist met in Cambodia.
With the new Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon, Zenith extends the reach of one of its most technically complex movements, El Primero Caliber 9020, by placing it into two ongoing Defy Extreme designs.
The 1/100th-of-a-second high-frequency chronograph movement, with a seconds hand that races around the dial once per second, is already among the watchmaker’s defining technical achievements.
Found previously powering special limited editions, the caliber utilizes two independent tourbillons, each regulating a different function. One tourbillon completes its rotation in sixty seconds to regulate the time display while the second tourbillon rotates in just five seconds to regulate a high-frequency chronograph.
The new watch is now most complicated model in the Zenith Defy collection. And true to Defy’s sporty character, the new model is set in a hefty 45mm case and will be offered with two different executions.
One version features a titanium case with a mix of satin-brushed, polished and matte surfaces (including the titanium bracelet). The second model, offered on a black rubber strap, is cased in carbon fiber with sandblasted matte rose gold twelve-sided bezel and pusher protectors. Both offer open-work dials to better display the dual tourbillons and their star-shaped cages.
Zenith has finished the watch’s El Primero 9020 movement to emphasize its decidedly contemporary nature.
Artisans have satin-brushed its bridges and coated them with a layer of black PVD. The finishing touch is a rose gold highlight meant to expose the various geometric shapes throughout the caliber.
Zenith is offering the new Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon as an ongoing model, in both versions, at retailers, Zenith boutiques and online Zenith boutiques.
Prices: $79,700 (carbon case, rose gold) and $69,600 (brushed titanium).
(Reference: 12.9100.9020/78.I200, black carbon and rose gold)
Movement: El Primero 9020, COSC-certified chronometer with 50 hours power reserve for the watch / 50 min for the chronograph.
Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Double Tourbillon. 1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH / 5 Hz – cage makes a turn in 60 second). 1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH / 50 Hz – cage makes a turn in 5 second). 1/100th of a second Chronograph:
– Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second
– 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
– 60-second counter at 6 o’clock
– Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock
Special oscillating weight with satined finishings
Case: 45mm black carbon & 18-karat rose gold, water-resistance to 200 meters.
Dial:Openworked, with gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 markers and hands.
Strap & Buckle: Black Rubber with micro-blasted titanium triple folding clasp.
Movement: El Primero 9020, COSC-certified chronometer with 50 hours power reserve for the watch / 50 min for the chronograph.
Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Double Tourbillon. 1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH / 5 Hz – cage makes a turn in 60 second). 1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH / 50 Hz – cage makes a turn in 5 second). 1/100th of a second Chronograph:
– Central chronograph hand that makes one turn each second
– 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
– 60-second counter at 6 o’clock
– Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock
Special oscillating weight with satined finishings
Case: 45mm brushed titanium, water-resistance to 200 meters.
Dial:Openworked, with gold-plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 markers and hands.
Bracelet & Buckle: Titanium bracelet with titanium folding clasp.
Patek Philippe launched three variations to its hot Nautilus (including a white gold successor to its retired Ref. 5711) and extended its collection of complicated chronographs as part of an eight-piece debut this week.
While the new Nautilus debuts garnered much of the initial attention, it’s the new set of chronographs that attract collectors of Patek Philippe’s legendary (and less commodified) complications. (Read all about the trio of new Nautilus models, including the 41mm successor to the Ref. 5711 , on the Patek Philippe site.)
The chronographs
And among those chronograph debuts, look no further than the new Ref. 5373P-001, a split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph with perpetual calendar, for some true novelty. The watch differs from its predecessor (Ref. 5372) with newly inverted displays, pushers and crown.
Made for specifically “for the right-hand wrists of left-handers,” according to the watchmaker, the new 38.3mm platinum-cased watch is a premiere design for the company.
Patek Philippe notes however that a 1927 one-of-a-kind watch inspired the design of the new model. Like the earlier watch, the new watch features its integrated chronograph monopusher at the 9 o’clock position with the split-seconds pusher set, unusually, at 8 o’clock.
The sporty red, blackand grey dial on the Ref. 5373P-001 is cleverly finished with a black gradation at its edge, framing snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials.
The watch’s beautifully finished caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q, still the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the manufacture, can be admired through the sapphire-crystal display back, which is interchangeable with the solid-platinum back delivered with the watch. Among the many caseback highlights is a view of the movement’s two column wheels with their two polished caps.
Finally, like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant cut diamond on its case. But here Patek Philippe flips the diamond’s location, placing it at the 12 o’clock position rather than at the 6 o’clock position. Price Upon Request.
Split Seconds, right side
Also with a split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar, the new Ref. 5204G-001, with its standard, right-side crown and two pushers,features a 40mm white gold case and an olive-green sunburst dial. The watch complements a version released last year with a slate-grey dial and a rose-gold case. Price Upon Request.
World Timer
In a premiere steel case, the Patek Philippe’s new Ref. 5935A-001 World Time flyback chronograph (with automatic caliber CH 28-520 HU) is bound to please collectors in search of steel Patek Philippe watches as well as those who covet its world timers.
A stunning rose-gold dial appears vintage while the ‘carbon’ motif’ dial interior is decidedly contemporary. That dial center is a reference to the 2020 limited edition inaugural model Patek Philippe’s newest manufacturing facility in Geneva. Patek Philippe includes two calfskin straps (grained taupe and beige with a velvet-like nubuck finish), each secured with stainless steel fold-over clasps. Price: $63,871.
Luce Chronograph
Patek Philippe adds an automatic chronograph to its contemporary Aquanaut Luce collection for the first time, and then decorates the watch (Ref. 7968-300R-001) with a rainbow of sapphires and diamonds. Cased in 39.9mm rose gold, the watch’s white mother-of-pearl dial is engraved with an Aquanaut pattern as baguette multi-colored sapphires mark the hours alongside gold applied numerals. Price: $212,900.
Travel Time
Patek Philippe has debuted a steel-cased Travel Time model with an eye-catching blue dial with a radiant sunburst finish and a subtle black gradation. The new Ref. 5990/1A-011 Travel Time is powered by automatic caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, which combines a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (two time zones with two separate hour hands; the skeletonized hand shows home time) and an analog date synchronized with local time. Price: $68,603.