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Jaeger-LeCoultre dresses one of its most impressive Master Control models in mid-twentieth-century style with a sharp-looking pink gold case with a black dial and red accents.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar.

Inspired by its own Memovox and Futurematic collections from the 1950s and 1960s, Jaeger-LeCoultre offers the new Master Control Chronograph Calendar with patterned sub-dials and a dark blue moon-phase indicator, both of which nicely contrast with the black brushed sunray dial.

You might recall that Jaeger-LeCoultre applies the Master Control name to watches that pass its in-house 1,000-Hour Control Certification. The rigorous testing protocol, now standard for all Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, involves testing not only the movement but the entire cased-up watch.

The vintage styling on the Master Control Chronograph Calendar is framed by a pulsometric scale marked around the flange. This red-colored display was traditionally used by physicians to measure patients’ heart rates, and, as the watchmaker notes, is still relevant today. The red is repeated on the sub-dials and in the day and month windows.

The full dial is beautifully balanced. The complete calendar and a bi-compax chronograph indications are easy to read while the day and month windows in the upper section of the dial are almost symmetric with the moon-phase and date indicator at 6 o’clock.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s excellent automatic Caliber 759, an integrated chronograph with a column-wheel chronograph and vertical clutch, powers the watch’s timing indicators and the triple calendar with moon-phase display. The movement, finely decorated and visible through the sapphire crystal case-back, offers a strong sixty-five-hour power reserve. (See below for additional specifications). 

Price: $32,500. 

Specifications: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar 

Case: 40mm by 12.05mm pink gold, 50 meters of water resistance. 

Movement: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 759 with a 65-hour power reserve. 

Dial: Black sunray-brushed with indicators for hours, minutes, small seconds, day, date, month, moon phases, chronograph with 30- minute counter and pulsometer. 

Strap: Black alligator.

Price: $32,500.

Backes & Strauss teams with British jeweler Theo Fennell to create the colorful Regent Theo Fennell Rainbow, an oval watch that places Fennell’s dynamic hand-crafted London style into a contemporary black PVD steel case with a black dial.

The Backes & Strauss Regent Theo Fennell Rainbow.

The watch’s dark dial is offset with rose gold hour markers comprised of brightly enameled Arabic numerals. The colors seem to flow from the hot pink Theo Fennell logo at 12 o’clock to warm amber and finally from green to blue as the eye races around the oval dial. An inner oval track is set with applied rose gold pyramid markers that reflect the light as the watch is worn. 

The watch’s 40mm by 47mm case is also set alight by a single diamond set into the crown. Backes and Strauss, fits an automatic movement into the case. 

The legendary jeweler and watchmaker, founded in 1789 and now part of the Franck Muller group, offers nine examples of the black-cased Regent Theo Fennell Rainbow, each priced upon request.

As a watchmaker and jeweler known for its diamond-set dials and cases, Backes and Strauss is also offering one glittering example of the Regent Theo Fennell Rainbow cased in rose gold and set with two rows of Ideal-cut round brilliant diamonds.

Even the leather strap’s gold buckle is diamond-set, contributing to the 4.79 total carat weight of the watch. Like the blackened steel model, this jeweled unique piece is priced on request.

Parmigiani Fleurier launches a pair of sporty models within its Tonda PF collection, adding the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph and Tonda PF Sport Automatic, two models that effectively replace the watchmaker’s Tonda GT collection.

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, available in a 42mm steel or rose gold case.

Both watches extend the watchmaker’s Tonda PF collection, first introduced two years ago as a slate of knurled platinum-bezel dress models with clean dials and revamped bracelets.

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic is available in a 41mm steel or rose gold case.

The new ‘tailored’ approach to the design drew has drawn strong collector acclaim. The watchmaker has responded with a series of high-profile rattrapante designs and complicated models within the expanding Tonda PF collection.

Parmigiani Fleurier offers the new models in both steel and rose gold. As sporty watches within a fairly dressy collection, both the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph and Tonda PF Sport Automatic display design touches that confirm their sportier appeal, including a bolder bezel and broader guilloché dial pattern.

The knurled bezel on each Tonda PF Sport watch features 160 cuts rather than the finer 225-incision bezel found on the dressier Tonda PF collection.

The new dial features a hand guilloché ‘triangular nail’ pattern known as clou triangulaire, a sportier look when compared to the guilloché grain d’orge of the existing Tonda PF collection.

In addition, Parmigiani Fleurier coats the applied hour markers here with black SuperLuminova while also supplying each watch with a rubber-treated textured and stitched strap. Both watches are water-resistant to 100 meters.

For the 42mm by 12.9mm ‘panda’-style chronograph, Parmigiani Fleurier has removed the large date found on the firm’s previous GT chronographs in order to leave space for the PF logo.

This mimics the dial on the current, dressier, Tonda PF chronographs. The (smaller) date is now found between the 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock position. In addition, the new design features shorter indexes and a somewhat smaller flange.

Similarly, on the 41mm by 9.8mm Tonda PF Sport Automatic the watchmaker places a small date aperture at the 6 o’clock position to allow for a clean dial marked only by a logo at the 12 o’clock position.

The PF Tonda Sport Chronograph displays its Caliber PF070 movement via a clear sapphire back.

Inside the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Parmigiani Fleurier fits its stunning Caliber PF070, a superb high-frequency (5Hz – 36,000 vph) manufacture movement with an integrated column wheel chronograph and a vertical clutch. The COSC-certified chronometer offers a power reserve of sixty-five hours.

A view of the caliber PF770 from the back of the Tonda PF Sport Automatic.

Inside the Tonda PF Sport Automatic you’ll find a Caliber PF770 with a serial-mounted double barrel and a power reserve of sixty hours. To extend the sporty design, the watchmaker also created a new, skeletonized oscillating weight for both watches. The watchmaker says the rotor now looks somewhat like the steering wheel of a Ferrari 250 GTO. 

Prices: $50,200 (chronograph in rose gold), $29,000 (chronograph in steel), $38,200 (automatic in rose gold) and $21,300 (automatic in steel). 

MB&F is back at the race track with the new HM8 Mark 2, a more compact version of its auto-inspired HM8 that combines the supercar styling of the watchmaker’s HM5 with the driving watch display and open ‘hood’ of the MB&F HM8 from 2016. 

The new MB&F HM8 Mark 2.

The new watch also features a similar horizontal time display optically magnified and projected 90 degrees to the wearer via a series of sapphire prisms.

But instead of the titanium and gold casing used in the earlier models, the new HM8 Mark 2 is built from titanium topped with CarbonMacrolon, a composite material composed of a polymer matrix injected with carbon nanotubes.

The English racing green version of the new MB&F HM8 Mark 2 is a limited edition of 33.

The material, developed for MB&F, is eight times lighter than steel and can be colored, polished, bead-blasted, lacquered or satin-finished. 

MB&F takes full advantage of those properties to create a lighter, smaller and more brightly colored driving watch, inviting a more unisex appeal to the debut.

For this debut, MB&F opts for a white or British racing green finish, matte on the top and high polish on the sides. The white version is paired with a green CVD rotor and light-green minute markers.

The British racing green version (a limited edition of 33) comes with a red gold rotor and balance wheel and turquoise minute markers. 

MB&F explains that the double-curved sapphire it uses on three sides of the HM8 Mark 2 is thirty to forty times more expensive than standard domed sapphire, and a result the watchmaker could find only one supplier for the component.

The trademark battle 22-karat gold axe rotor is also a chore to construct as it is only two-tenths of a milimeter thick and can’t be made by machine. Instead, it must be stamped, with the engraving already incorporated into the stamp.

The new watch’s crown is also unusual. Echoing the “double de-clutch” system found on race-cars, it operates by pushing it in and turning it three-quarters of a turn to release it. This ensures the watch’s 30 meters of water resistance while also maintaining a less intrusive profile.

The MB&F HM8 Mark 2 launches in two editions:  Titanium and green CarbonMacrolon body (limited to 33 pieces) and titanium and white CarbonMacrolon body panel.

Price: $78,000. 

 

Specifications: MB&F HM8 Mark 2 

Movement: Three-dimensional horological ‘engine’ composed of a jumping hour and trailing minutes module developed in-house by MB&F, powered by a Girard-Perregaux base movement. Mechanical movement, automatic winding with 22-karat gold automatic winding rotor. Power reserve is 42 hours, balance frequency is 28,800 bph.

Functions/indications: Bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes, displayed by dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lens.

Case: Grade 5 titanium with green or white CarbonMacrolon, dimensions: 47mm x 41.5mm x 19mm. Water resistance to 30 meters. Sapphire crystals on top, front and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces. Dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lens.

Strap & Buckle: Calfskin: White for the British green model and green for the white model with a titanium tang buckle.

Price: $78,000

Hublot’s new Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu watches, with highly faceted crystals and multi-level, sectional cases, underscore the watchmaker’s ongoing creative collaboration with tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi and his Sang Bleu design house.

One of five new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu models. Watches are offered in King Gold (above), titanium or black ceramic.

The existing series, first introduced in 2016, is now available in the barrel-shaped Spirit of Big Bang case and with newly elongated and bevelled features.

Geometric tattoos alternate and overlap from the case to the bezel. The series revels in new triangles and a multiplicity of case finishes that, while unorthodox within Swiss watchmaking, again demonstrates Hublot’s ability to nurture and sustain a serious artistic partnership.

While elongated, the cases here still fit the wrist nicely thanks to carefully arched caseback and back crystal.

Hublot exposes portions of its HUB4700 automatic skeleton chronograph movement through angular disc hands that echo the shape of all Hublot’s Sang Bleu designs. Through the clear caseback you’ll see an impressively skeletonized Sang Bleu rotor.

The new Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu watches, each 42mm in diameter across a barrel-shaped case, offer their angularity in three different case materials, with two of the options also enhanced with a choice of diamond-set cases.

Hublot will offer 200 watches in either titanium or all black ceramic and 100 examples in King Gold. In addition, two titanium and King Gold models are each set with 180 diamonds.

Prices: $28,300 (titanium) to $70,400 (King Gold with diamonds).