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Among the eleven new watches debuted by Patek Philippe during Watches and Wonders, one debut in particular stands out for its technical advancement while others enliven existing collections with new colors, new casual (denim) straps, new case metals or, for one highlight, a sleek new bracelet.

New Patek Philippe World Time Reference Ref. 5330G-001.

World Timer localizes

The newest Patek Philippe World Time model joins the full collection after initially debuting as a limited edition last year during the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition Watch Art Tokyo 2023.

The watch, Ref. 5330G-001, now displays a date display synchronized with local time, which is a patented world-first and a notably useful travel function.

Patek Philippe watchmakers have added a specialized differential system to the watch’s automatic movement. The resulting change means the local date will appear along the edge of the dial, indicated with a transparent glass hand (a first for Patek Philippe) with a red tip.

In this illustration, note that the new Patek Philippe Caliber 240 HU C features a patented central differential system comprising two concentric star-type gear wheels to manage the local-time date.

The local time is the time zone selected at 12 o’clock and indicated by the center hands.

With its 40mm white gold case and handsome blue-grey opaline dial (with a block-pattern carbon center), the dressy model allows the wearer to simply press the pusher at 10 o’clock to move the move the local time zone indicated on the watch in one-hour increments.

With this simple gesture, the traveller can both see the local time while also noting the time differences globally, as seen on the multi-city dial indicator.

Patek Philippe displayed the new World Time Reference Ref. 5330G-001 with a new denim weave strap, a casual bracelet also seen on other debuts. Price: $76,594.

The newest Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

Golden Ellipse bracelet

Another head-turner at the Patek Philippe exhibition in Geneva was the supple new gold chain bracelet attached to the always elegant Golden Ellipse, Reference 5738/1R.

While often attached to various precious metal bracelets since its debut in 1968, the Golden Ellipse has in recent years been primarily a leather strap model, in part due to the difficulty in sizing the bracelet at the point of sale.

Patek Philippe explains that the new bracelet is the result of fifteen years of work. It is made of 18-karat hand-polished rose gold with a new, patented construction made of 363 parts, including more than 300 links, assembled manually.

The new clasp (above), with its engraved cover, offers a choice of three adjustment notches.

The bracelet debuts attached to a new rose gold edition of the 34.5mm-by-39.5mm fashion icon. For the debut Patek Philippe created a new sunburst ebony black dial with applied baton-type hour-markers and thin rose-gold hands.

Inside, Patek Philippe fits its celebrated self-winding caliber 240, an ultra-thin movement with off-center 22-karat gold mini-rotor. The movement’s thin profile means the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738 is now the slimmest watch in the Patek Philippe regular collection. Price: $60,097.

Other 2024 Patek Philippe debuts include:

A new dial on the Twenty~4 Reference 4910/1201R-010 ($47,607, pictured above) now displays eye-catching concentric waves coated with dozens of layers of translucent lacquer.

The new Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph, Reference 5980/60G-001.

A new edition of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph. The newest, Reference 5980/60G-001 ($78,951), revisits the hot sports model in white gold with a blue-gray opaline dial. Patek Philippe will deliver two matching straps with each watch.

One is a blue-gray calfskin embossed with a denim motif edged with contrasting white hand-stitching  (above) and the other is a blue-grey composite in a fabric motif.

The new Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Reference 5268/461G-001 ($235,674, pictured above) gleams in white gold set with diamonds and blue sapphires within snow and baguette settings.

On the rounded octagonal bezel, baguette-cut sapphires gradate from light blue to dark blue. Inside is Caliber 26-330 S, a self-winding movement visible through the sapphire-crystal back.

See all the 2024 debuts from Patek Philippe here.

Five Year Warranty

Also at Watches and Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe announced that for all new Patek Philippe watches sold as of May 1, 2024, the duration of the Patek Philippe warranty increases from two years to five years, counting from the date of purchase.

 

Collectors in Geneva for Watches & Wonders 2024 can also stop in at the Patek Philippe Salon on Rue de Rhone, where the watchmaker will exhibit select items from its Rare Handcrafts 2024 collection.

From Saturday, April 13, to Saturday, April 27, 2024, watch enthusiasts can join the general public to see more than eighty artisanal watches, dome clocks, desk clocks and pocket watches during what is an annual high-end horological event in this premier watchmaker’s hometown.

The exhibit is a must-see for those who appreciate artisanal workmanship on all forms of timekeeping instruments. Beautifully rendered, hand-crafted dials, cases, stands and decorative accessories will be on display, many of which will exhibit examples of high-end enameling, marquetry, engraving, guilloché and dial-painting.   

Here are two examples of what Patek Philippe will have on display.

Portrait of a White Egret

Ref. 995/143G-001, Portrait of a White Egret

This 45mm white gold pocket watch is a unique piece featuring a case back in wood marquetry, highlighting a white egret and its plumage. The marquetry maker cut out and assembled fifty-three tiny veneer parts and 400 inlays, which include eighteen species of wood in different colors, textures and veining.

 

Artisans hand-guilloche the gold dial with a sunburst motif recalling the plumage and coat it with translucent blue enamel, according to the traditional technique of flinqué enameling.

Applied Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands, all in white gold, indicate the time. An orange opal cabochon echoing the golden color of the bird’s bill embellishes the crown.

The white gold stand is decorated with a motif inspired by reeds and is attached to an oval base in silver obsidian. Inside Patek Philippe fits a manually wound movement with small seconds.

 

Ref. 5089G-129, Morning on the Beach

This 38.6mm white gold Calatrava wristwatch features a dial in wood marquetry. A limited edition of ten, the watch’s dial highlights a surfer waiting for the waves on a California beach.

Morning on the Beach

To create the dial, the marquetry maker cut out and assembled 100 tiny veneer parts, as well as seventy-five microscopic inlays, together spanning twenty-three species of wood of different colors, textures and veining.

Dauphine-style hands in white gold with a pierced center fillet adorn the dial.

The white-gold case is endowed with a sapphire crystal case back protected by a hinged dust cover. When open, this allows a view of the caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement.

The Patek Philippe Salon is located at 41 Rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland, and is open from 10 am until 6:30 pm. It closes at 6 pm on Saturdays and is closed Sundays. 

Patek Philippe places a minute repeater within its contemporary Aquanaut Luce collection, launching it within two rose-gold-cased, highly gem-set models. One version on a strap is resplendent in a rainbow of multicolored baguette-cut sapphires while a second model offers an invisible-set baguette-cut-diamond dial and a gem-rich rose gold bracelet.

The new multi-colored Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie (Reference 5260/355R-001).
The new Aquanaut Luce Rainbow Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001.

While we’ve seen several complications within the Aquanaut since its debut in 1997, including the very recent Annual Calendar (Reference 5261), these debuts, each measuring 38.8mm by 42.5mm, mark the first time the watchmaker has added a minute repeater to the collection.

Patek Philippe has a history of debuting new complicated watches within its collections aimed at feminine watch fans. In 2009 the watchmaker debuted its caliber CH 29-535 PS manually wound chronograph movement in a Ladies First Chronograph model.

And for six years starting in 2011 the Reference 7000 Ladies First Minute Repeater (with the superb caliber R 27 PS) graced the watchmaker’s catalog. Even as far back as 1916, Patek Philippe debuted its first-ever chiming watch as a ladies’ five-minute repeater in a platinum case with a chain bracelet.

 

The new multi-colored Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie (Reference 5260/355R-001) shows off the watchmaker’s artisanal prowess set with fifty-two multicolored baguette-cut sapphires, 112 baguette-cut diamonds and 160 brilliant-cut diamonds.

 

Those baguette gemstones are invisibly set, which means each stone is cut with lateral grooves embedded in tiny gold rails that will be invisible once the stone is set.

 

The bracelet model, Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Haute Joaillerie Reference 5260/1455R-001, is set with 130 baguette-cut diamonds on the dial and the outer row of the bezel and 779 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires forming a rainbow on the inner row of the bezel, the flanks of the case, the minute repeater slide-piece and the rose-gold bracelet.

 

Aware that such intense high-carat settings can distract some wearers who deign to check the time, Patek Philippe has been careful to ensure a highly legible dial on each watch. On the bracelet model specifically, twelve multicolored baguette-cut sapphires distinctly mark the hours while the hour hand is set with three baguette rubies and the minute hand is easy to see thanks to five blue sapphires.

Inside both watches, the automatic Caliber R 27 movement chimes on demand on two classic gongs (the hour, quarters and minutes elapsed since the last quarter) when the side-piece is activated. The movement’s off-center 22-karat gold guilloche mini-rotor is visible through a sapphire crystal case back.

For each model, price is on request. 

New Nautilus Models

In addition to debuting the minute repeater in two Aquanaut Luce models, Patek Philippe also debuts three new Nautilus Haute Joaillerie models.

One is cased in white gold set with 1,500 brilliant-cut diamonds with 876 brilliant-cut blue sapphires (6.58 ct, Reference 7118/1451G-001),one offers rubies (Reference 7118/1452G-001) and the third is set with emeralds (Reference 7118/1453G-001) using the “snow setting” technique.

 

With each, the bracelet is equally eye-catching. Diamonds on the outer links of each model contrasts with colored gems on the inner links to better highlight the original construction of the bracelet. Prices on request.

 

And finally, Patek Philippe completes its late-2023 gem-set extravaganza with two new Ladies’ Nautilus models in rose gold with a purple decor.

The new Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010R-013.

One, the Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010R-013 ($39,624), offers a purple lacquered dial and a matching strap in a composite material, while the second, the Ladies’ Nautilus Reference 7010/1R-013 ($56,183), offers the purple lacquered dial with a rose gold bracelet.

 

 

 

Watchmaker and RGM founder Roland Murphy will headline the November Horological Society of New York (HSNY) lecture at the organization’s New York headquarters on Nov. 6. with his discussion “Inside the James Arthur Collection: A Patek Philippe Grand Complication.”

The Pennsylvania-based Murphy was asked in the mid-1990s by the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) Museum to repair a Patek Philippe Grand Complication — an important timepiece in the James Arthur collection. The Association at the time was making a video and needed the repeater mechanism inside the watch to function. Additionally, photographs were taken during the repair and restoration process to give a glimpse inside the extremely rare and complicated watch.

Roland G. Murphy

Earlier this year, the 35mm negatives were shared for the first time, and during his lecture Murphy will share the scans and his experience of repairing one of the most important watches in horological history.

The lecture is free of charge (RSVP required) and takes place at the HSNY headquarters at the General Society Library, 20 West 44th Street in New York City. Click here for details and to RSVP. 

Doors open at 6 p,m. with the lecture set to begin at 7 p.m.

In addition to the wristwatches Patek Philippe is currently debuting during its the grand exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, the Geneva watchmaker is also  displaying a spectacular new collection of ‘rare handcrafts’ models, including dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches, each decorated with artisanal dial and case work inspired by Japanese culture.

In all, Patek Philippe is unveiling a collection of forty creations (eight dome clocks, five table clocks, nine pocket watches and eighteen wristwatches), all one-of-a-kind or limited-edition pieces. Each pays tribute to hand engraving, hand-executed guilloché work, gemsetting and various forms of enameling. The exhibition also presents a selection of some 190 pieces belonging to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva.

Below we’ve assembled a selection of the rare handcrafts items on display at the exhibition in Tokyo until June 25.

Kyudo pocket watch with miniature painting on enamel, flinqué enamel and hand engraving.
The Japanese garden decor on the case back was hand-engraved and hand-guilloched, and then coated with translucent and opalescent enamels, a technique known as flinqué enamel.

 

The Katagami pocket watch with hand-engraving.
The case back was first hand engraved with a pattern of vertical grooves using line engraving and chased to obtain alternating matte and shining finishes suggesting textile fibers.

 

The Portrait of a Samouri is a pocket watch with case back in wood marquetry and dial in enamel.

 

Shizuoka and Mount Fuji pocket watch with cloisonné enamel, flinqué enamel and hand-engraving.

 

Opposite side of the Shizuoka and Mount Fuji pocket watch.

 

The Eagle pocket watch in cloisonné enamel, paillonné enamel and miniature painting on enamel.

 

Close-up on the dial of the Eagle pocket watch..

 

The Snow-Covered Landscape Golden Ellipse wristwatch with dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.

 

Bird on a Red Maple is a ladies’ minute repeater wristwatch with dial in cloisonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.

 

Hanami dome table clock in cloisonné and paillonné enamel enriched with miniature painting on enamel.
The Japanese Stamps Dome table clock in cloisonné enamel with hand-engraving.
The stamp motifs were rendered by hand with line engraving and coated with translucent brown enamels to create the effect of shadows and patina.