All week we’re reviewing 2022 debuts presented during Watches and Wonders 2022 that, perhaps, you didn’t read too much about in the first wave of online reporting.
While Oris focused on its Oris ProPilotX Caliber 400 during the recent debut event at Watches and Wonders 2022, this watch also benefits from the long-power reserves found in the Oris Caliber 400 series of movements.
For the first time in a Big Crown Pointer Date production piece, Oris also launches this Big Crown Pointer Date Caliber 403, which is updated with that new movement. This 38mm steel-cased model, with small seconds and pointer date complications, is now fit with namesake Caliber 403, which we first saw in the 250-piece Hölstein limited edition in 2021.
Echoing the entire Caliber 400 series, Caliber 403 has elevated levels of anti-magnetism, a five-day power reserve and a ten-year warranty. It’s also accurate to -3/+5 seconds a day – which would pass chronometer testing – and has ten-year recommended service intervals. As production allows, we expect Oris to phase in additional models in this collection fit with calibers from the excellent Oris long-power-reserve movement series.
Oris for 2022 expands its wide-ranging ProPilot collection with a titanium-cased model powered by Caliber 400, the watchmaker’s excellent in-house automatic caliber that boasts a five-day power reserve.
The new Oris ProPilot X Caliber 400 emphasizes its titanium build with a satin and sand-blasted 39mm titanium case—the smallest in the ProPilot range – matched with the familiar ProPilot bezel and a sculpted titanium bracelet. The large protected crown is also titanium.
Of the three dial options, salmon, blue and grey, it’s the latter hue that best accentuates the clean metallic look of this sleek debut. But if you’re looking for color, either of the two additional options will undoubtedly turn heads.
Flipping the watch over reveals the titanium case back and clear sapphire crystal that frames the Oris Calibre 400, the five-day automatic movement, itself a much-discussed technical achievement from this independent watchmaker after its debut two years ago.
You might be aware already that this movement is both highly precise and strongly anti-magnetic. Oris checks it as accurate to -3 to +5 seconds a day (within chronometer certification standards). Its anti-magnetism stems from more than thirty non-ferrous and anti-magnetic parts (including a silicon escape wheel and a silicon anchor).
Combined with twin barrels and an innovative rotor with a low-friction slide bearing system that replaces the traditional rotor ball bearings, the caliber offers the wearer a liberating five-day power reserve.
Oris underscores its Caliber 400 Series watches with ten- year warranties and ten-year recommended service intervals, a combination Oris dubs “The New Standard.” If you’re waiting for other brands to catch up, you might be waiting quite a while.
Specifications: Oris ProPilot X Caliber 400
Case: 39mm multi-piece titanium with satin and sandblasted finishes. Titanium back with satin and sandblasted finishes, screwed, see-through sapphire glass, titanium screw-in security crown with protection. Water resistance to 100 meters.
Dial: Grey, blue or salmon. Indices and hour and minute hands with SuperLumiNova. Crystal is sapphire, domed on both sides, double-sided anti-reflective coating.
Bracelet Titanium with folding clasp with Oris-patented ‘LIFT’ system.
Movement: Oris Calibre 400 with center hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window at 6 o’clock, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second. Accuracy -3/+5 seconds a day (within COSC tolerances) . Highly anti-magnetic with a power reserve of 120 hours.
Anyone who knows Oris knows the flagship Big Crown Pointer Date, with its oversized crown and prominent crescent-tipped central date indicator. It’s been in continuous production since 1938, first created by the Holstein-based brand for glove-wearing aviators who appreciated its user-friendly attributes.
The Big Crown has had a variety of incarnations over the years, in varying sizes and materials. Notably, in 2018 on the 80th anniversary of its debut it was introduced in a 40mm commemorative edition with a bronze case and fitted on a leather strap.
Bronze is once again the metal of choice for the newest Big Crown, this time—and for the first time—with a bronze bracelet and clasp, in addition to its case, fluted bezel and security crown.
The 40mm Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze collection includes four dial colors, visible beneath the watch’s domed sapphire glass—green, brown, Bordeaux and blue—and each lends a distinctly vintage-y vibe to the watch’s already-retro look. The printed Arabic numerals and indices feature SuperLumiNova, and the pointer date offers a familiar pop of red.
Inside beats the automatic Oris Caliber 754 (based on the Sellita SW200-1), as seen in earlier Big Crown iterations. It, and its signature red-lacquer rotor, may be seen through the transparent screw-in caseback. Its functions include hours, minutes, seconds and date.
The seven-link brushed bracelet has a folding clasp, while the sustainably sourced brown leather strap option has a pin buckle.
I like both options, but if you’re going for the bronze, I say go big.
Oris maintains its reputation for producing affordable, well-made watches. The Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze on a bracelet is priced at $2,600, while the leather-strap version is $2,100.
The Carysfort Reef collection is named for the eponymous coral reef in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. It is part of the Florida Reef Tract, the third largest barrier reef in the world and the only barrier reef in the United States. Sadly, a changing climate has caused it to degrade over the past several decades and the coral populations to concurrently dwindle. This, in turn, affects the health of our oceans, which produce seventy percent of the world’s oxygen.
The new watch features a 43.5mm steel case with a bi-directional ceramic bezel and GMT scale. The watch’s blue gradient dial forms the backdrop for SuperLuminova-treated hands and indexes and a date window at three o’clock, while the solid screwed caseback features special engravings alluding to the brand’s support of Carysfort Reef. Oris has worked with the Coral Restoration Foundation since 2014.
As you might expect, Oris has made the watch fully prepared for use outdoor and even underwater. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters, thanks in part of its screw-in stainless steel security crown.
The automatic movement (the Sellita-based Oris 798) includes multiple functions: hours, minutes, seconds and 24 hour indication via central hands, as well as an instantaneous date and 24-hour corrector, fine timing device and stop seconds. Its power reserve is 42 hours.
In its new steel case, the Oris Aquis Carysfort Reef Limited Edition can be strapped to the wrist with a solid Oris stainless steel bracelet or an orange rubber strap, both of which are complemented by a stainless steel security folding clasp with an extension. The presentation box is both attractive and satisfying: it is constructed using sustainable algae. Prices: $3,000 (metal bracelet) and $2,800 (orange rubber strap).
Oris has introduced an impressive series of limited edition dive watches over the years, many of which incorporate a philanthropic cause into their finely engineered designs. The just-introduced Lake Baikal Limited Edition, for example, was created in partnership with the Lake Baikal Foundation to help raise funds to conserve the world’s deepest freshwater lake.
Oris last week carried on its environmental fund-raising by introducing the Carysfort Reef Limited Edition, a significant new watch on two fronts: in its composition—it is the company’s first Aquis model in solid gold—and in its mission to help support the Coral Restoration Foundation, with which Oris has been working since 2014.
Based on the Oris Aquis GMT, the Carysfort Reef Limited Edition comprises just fifty pieces, each with a blue dial and SuperLuminova-filled hour markers and hands. The self-winding Oris 798 (base SW 330-1) movement that powers the watch offers hours, minutes, seconds, 24 hours and date, with a power reserve of forty-two hours.
The watch’s 43.5mm yellow gold case provides water resistance to 300 meters and features an 18-karat security crown and a bi-color rotating bezel. The caseback has a sapphire crystal inlay decorated with a Carysfort Reef motif and the number of the watch within the edition.
The watch’s namesake, Carysfort Reef, is in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary near Key Largo, and it is part of the Florida Reef Tract—the third largest barrier reef in the world and the only barrier reef in the U.S. Since 2014 the Coral Restoration Foundation has been working to restore the reef, which has severely degraded over recent decades. The foundation has made great strides, this year aiming to return 30,000 corals to the reef—up from 25,000 last year.
And this is where the Oris Carysfort Reef Limited edition steps in. Oris is donating three watches to the cause, slated for auction over the next few months, and the funds raised will go directly to supporting the foundation’s work.
The watch, available in April, is fitted on a blue rubber-coated leather strap with an 18-karat gold pin buckle. Price: $19,000.