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Watches and Wonders 2024: The Many Colors of NOMOS

With thirty-one multi-hued watches on one large table, Nomos showed its colors in spectacular fashion at its first Watches and Wonders a few weeks ago.

On a table within its Geneva exhibition booth, the German-based independent watchmaker displayed a special edition Tangente 38 Date – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte model, a collection of thirty-one watches, each with its own dial color combination.

For the limited edition, numerous elements of the dial were individually matched to the character of the watch. Shown here are the Tangente 38 Date Delfin and Poporange.

The steel-cased 38mm watches are each limited to 175 pieces, an ode to its hometown, which is celebrating 175 years of watchmaking.

As the best-selling collection at Nomos in the thirty years since the brand was born, Tangente is the appropriate choice for such a tribute.

The Tangente Date 38 Bubblegum model.

Each watch bears its own name and has its own story. While most of the watch names are in German (Ariel, Zirkus, Haifischgrau, and Schlossgrün) many are not.

The Tangente 38 Date Stop. Yes, there’s also a Go model with a green seconds subdial.

Watches dubbed Stop, Go, Chili, Flamingopink and Bubblegum hint at the color combinations and allude to the playfulness Nomos has embedded into the collection.

The cheerful shade of the Tangente Date 38 Flamingopink attracts attention.

While typically a commemorative model at any watchmaker is priced at a premium, Nomos is dedicated to making all its watches accessibly priced, even the limited editions.

The special edition Tangente 38 Date Lemonbisquit.

That is why the price of these colorful limited-edition watches ($2,310) is lower than the price of the standard Tangente 38 Date model ($2,780).

The patented date mechanism allows the date ring (here in light red) to be placed around the outside of the movement.

Inside Nomos places its superb hand-wound caliber DUW 4101, which Nomos makes in Glashütte and regulates according to chronometer values.

The name of the watch and the limited-edition number are engraved on the back, and the NOMOS caliber DUW 4101 can be seen at work through the sapphire crystal case back.

The movement, visible via a sapphire back, is built with the date ring around the main movement (a patented technique), which allows Nomos to create a large date window.

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The Watches

Nomos Expands Colorful Club Campus 

Nomos debuts two colorful watches in its Club Campus series, an entry level collection that the Glashütte-based independent watchmaker calls an “ideal gift—for recent graduates and all those celebrating milestone moments in life.”

The new Nomos Club Campus Endless Blue, here in 36mm. A 38.5mm model is also available.

While its relatively affordable price tag (starting at $1,500) may attract many gift-givers to the charms of Club Campus, it’s the clean dials, artful colors and watch’s solid manual-wind in-house calibers that seal the deal.

Club Campus 38 Nonstop Red from Nomos Glashütte.

With two new models in eye-catching ‘nonstop’ red and ‘endless’ blue hues, each available in two sizes (36mm and 38.5mm), the new Club Campus models expand the series with new color options and a continued focus on gift-giving.

The optional stainless steel back of Club Campus is available for engraving–at no extra charge.

To further enhance this prospect, Nomos offers free engraving on an optional solid caseback for all watches in the series. 

Of course, many future Club Campus watch owners might prefer to see the excellent manual-wind Nomos Alpha movement through the clear sapphire back, which is also available for an extra $300.

The dials here are contemporary, with a playful mix of Roman and Arabic numerals, echoing what is sometimes called a ‘California dial.’  In an interesting dial detail, Nomos has outlined the hour markers and numerals with contrasting color outlines.

Thus, the outlines are in light blue on the red model and are violet on the blue edition. Nomos also chooses differing hues for the minute numerals: light blue on the red dial and mint green on the blue dial. The seconds hand on both dials is neon orange.

A screw-down back ensures that this watch is water-resistant to 100 meters. The case is held to the wrist with a vegan velour strap.

Prices start at $1,500 for 36mm model with a solid back. 

 

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The Watches

Nomos Dresses up Orion Trio 

Nomos addresses the question of which dress watch to wear with three new options, all of them thin, attached to black leather and sporting a rich black dial.

Impressive at any formal event, any watch from the new trio in the Nomos Orion Neomatik collection brings with it an automatic movement, a very clean black galvanized dial with small-seconds subdial and gold and/or silver accents.

The Nomos Orion Neomatik 39 New Black

The new watches arrives in a choice of three diameter sizes: 36.4mm (the Orion Neomatik New Black) , 38.5 mm (the Orion Neomatik 39 New Black) and 40.5mm (the Orion Neomatik 41 New Black).

The Nomos Orion Neomatik 41 Date New Black

The smaller model (pictured below) is a thin 8.5mm in height while the mid-size model measures mere 8.7mm in height.

Nomos employs its superb DUW 3001 automatic caliber to power both these models. 

The larger edition is the only model of the three to include a date window, which is part of the automatic caliber DUW 6101 that includes a date ring along the outside of the movement.

The date itself appears in gold on a black background to match the dial. Even with the added function, the watch measure a still-thin 9.4mm in height.

On all these debut models Nomos ensures that the slightly curved shape of the dial matches the curve of the domed sapphire crystal.

And finally, Nomos fits a leather strap made from black Horween Genuine leather on each model.

The back view of the mid-sized model, showing automatic Caliber DUW 3001.

Prices: $3,850 (Orion Neomatik New Black), $3,920 (Orion Neomatik 39 New Black) and $4,200 (Orion Neomatik 41 Date New Black).

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The Watches

2023 Favorites, Part IV 

At the end of the year it’s time to note our favorite 2023 debut watches. We continue our look at a few of our favorite timekeepers of the year. 

Franck Muller: Colorado Grand 

Each limited to thirty-four examples (to celebrate the 34th anniversary of the race), these new watches of the Franck Muller Colorado Grand limited edition expertly utilize the classic 45mm Vanguard tonneau-shaped case and dial as a canvas, creating dials inspired by automotive art and the technical details of vintage cars.

Notable is the silver perlage that graces each dial of the four-watch set. Set with bold hand-painted numerals, these dials recall vintage car dashboards. Four models are available, each with a colorful rendering of the numerals, crown-protector and minute track just inside the bezel. Three debuts are in steel-cases, one in titanium and the fourth cased in rose gold. Prices: $13,000 to $24,500.

 

 

William Henry: Legacy 

The U.S.-based knifemaker’s first foray into wristwatches features dials created from meteorite, fossilized mammoth tooth and other exotic materials. A particularly nice example is this limited-edition Legacy Dinosaur model with a dial crafted from dinosaur bone; an extraordinary fossil material that ranges from 100 to 200 million years old. Initially it has a similar appearance to rock, but after the painstaking process of crafting a precision dial, the beautiful hues and patterns are revealed.

Surrounding the ancient dial is a forged Damascus case built with 300 layers of stainless-steel alloys and etched to reveal the individual patterns. Each watch in the debut collection is powered by a Sellita SW 400 automatic movement and housed in grade 5 titanium that is water resistant to 100 meters. Prices start at $3,750. 

 

Louis Vuitton: Tambour

This year, Louis Vuitton updates Tambour with new finishes and a decidedly slimmer, sculpted case. The new collection is more luxurious overall and notably highlights an all-new in-house movement and a sleek integrated steel bracelet.

Two new steel watches launch the collection’s upgrade. One is a chic monochrome model with a silver grey dial and the second one sports a deep blue dial. Both are built to highlight the new unisex 40mm by 8.3mm case, its new caliber LFT023 and the new bracelet. A rose gold model and a two-tone gold and steel edition are also now available. Price: $18,500 or $52,500 (rose gold) or $26,500 (two-tone). 

 

MB&F: Horological Machine Nº11 Architect.

This house for your wrist features four titanium ‘rooms’ radiating from a sapphire-domed central flying tourbillon. The surprising new watch recalls the designs of mid-twentieth century biomorphic-style houses, with four symmetrical parabolic ‘rooms’ emanating from a central atrium. 

Each room houses a display, with one showing the time, the next showing the watch’s power reserve, a third indicating temperature and the fourth housing the winding crown. The wearer can choose which display is in direct eyesight when wearing the watch by rotating the entire housing, which will click into place as desired. Price: $200,000.

 

 

Nomos: Rose Gold Neomatik

In a year of terrific debuts by this Glashütte-based watchmaker, this rose gold designs stood out for its unusually luxurious dressing. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a limited edition 35mm model in honor of the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte. Limited to 175 pieces worldwide, the new watch adds a sub-seconds dial and minute markers in rose gold to the original’s galvanically white silver-plated dial. And while the first Tangente series reveled in its manual-wind minimalism, the new model is powered  by the Nomos DUW 3001, a thin automatic movement adjusted to chronometer standards. Price: $11,100.

 

 

Parmigiani Fleurier: Tonda PF Sport Chronograph 

Parmigiani Fleurier replaced its Tonda GT collection with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph and Tonda PF Sport Automatic, both more refined than its predecessor. We like the chronograph best here, as it combines the most attractive elements of the new Tonda PF collection (the knurled bezel, clean dials and revamped bracelets) with its 42mm by 12.9mm ‘panda’-styling. 

Inside, the watchmaker fits its stunning Caliber PF070, a superb high-frequency (5Hz – 36,000 vph) manufacture movement with an integrated column wheel chronograph and a vertical clutch. The COSC-certified Chronometer offers a power reserve of sixty-five hours.

Prices: $50,200 (chronograph in rose gold), $29,000 (chronograph in steel).

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The Watches

Nomos Launches Gold Tangente

For the first time, Nomos dresses its automatic Tangente in rose gold, launching the Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik as a limited-edition model in honor of the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte.

The new Nomos Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik 175 Years of Watchmaking.

As the latest addition in the Nomos 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte series, the new watch is a luxurious ode to both the German city’s long watchmaking history and to the Tangente itself, which has been a bestseller (in its usual 35mm steel case) for the watchmaker for thirty years.

The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik has a white silver-plated dial with an outer ring, sub-seconds dial, and minute markers in gold.

Limited to 175 pieces worldwide, the new watch adds a sub-seconds dial and minute markers in rose gold to the original’s galvanically white silver-plated dial.

At 6.9mm high, the Tangente rose gold neomatik from Nomos Glashütte is just a bit taller than Tangente with manual winding.

And while the first Tangente series reveled in its manual-wind minimalism, the new model is powered  by the Nomos DUW 3001, a thin automatic movement adjusted to chronometer standards.

The in-house neomatik movement DUW 3001 with the Nomos Swing System is thin and regulated to chronometer standards for the special edition.

Nomos attaches the celebratory model to an equally luxurious precious strap and clasp. The Berlin-designed clasp, crafted from 18-karat gold and hand-polished, holds a strap from Horween made of thick shell Cordovan.

Price: $11,100.

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