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Nomos addresses the question of which dress watch to wear with three new options, all of them thin, attached to black leather and sporting a rich black dial.

Impressive at any formal event, any watch from the new trio in the Nomos Orion Neomatik collection brings with it an automatic movement, a very clean black galvanized dial with small-seconds subdial and gold and/or silver accents.

The Nomos Orion Neomatik 39 New Black

The new watches arrives in a choice of three diameter sizes: 36.4mm (the Orion Neomatik New Black) , 38.5 mm (the Orion Neomatik 39 New Black) and 40.5mm (the Orion Neomatik 41 New Black).

The Nomos Orion Neomatik 41 Date New Black

The smaller model (pictured below) is a thin 8.5mm in height while the mid-size model measures mere 8.7mm in height.

Nomos employs its superb DUW 3001 automatic caliber to power both these models. 

The larger edition is the only model of the three to include a date window, which is part of the automatic caliber DUW 6101 that includes a date ring along the outside of the movement.

The date itself appears in gold on a black background to match the dial. Even with the added function, the watch measure a still-thin 9.4mm in height.

On all these debut models Nomos ensures that the slightly curved shape of the dial matches the curve of the domed sapphire crystal.

And finally, Nomos fits a leather strap made from black Horween Genuine leather on each model.

The back view of the mid-sized model, showing automatic Caliber DUW 3001.

Prices: $3,850 (Orion Neomatik New Black), $3,920 (Orion Neomatik 39 New Black) and $4,200 (Orion Neomatik 41 Date New Black).

At the end of the year it’s time to note our favorite 2023 debut watches. We continue our look at a few of our favorite timekeepers of the year. 

Franck Muller: Colorado Grand 

Each limited to thirty-four examples (to celebrate the 34th anniversary of the race), these new watches of the Franck Muller Colorado Grand limited edition expertly utilize the classic 45mm Vanguard tonneau-shaped case and dial as a canvas, creating dials inspired by automotive art and the technical details of vintage cars.

Notable is the silver perlage that graces each dial of the four-watch set. Set with bold hand-painted numerals, these dials recall vintage car dashboards. Four models are available, each with a colorful rendering of the numerals, crown-protector and minute track just inside the bezel. Three debuts are in steel-cases, one in titanium and the fourth cased in rose gold. Prices: $13,000 to $24,500.

 

 

William Henry: Legacy 

The U.S.-based knifemaker’s first foray into wristwatches features dials created from meteorite, fossilized mammoth tooth and other exotic materials. A particularly nice example is this limited-edition Legacy Dinosaur model with a dial crafted from dinosaur bone; an extraordinary fossil material that ranges from 100 to 200 million years old. Initially it has a similar appearance to rock, but after the painstaking process of crafting a precision dial, the beautiful hues and patterns are revealed.

Surrounding the ancient dial is a forged Damascus case built with 300 layers of stainless-steel alloys and etched to reveal the individual patterns. Each watch in the debut collection is powered by a Sellita SW 400 automatic movement and housed in grade 5 titanium that is water resistant to 100 meters. Prices start at $3,750. 

 

Louis Vuitton: Tambour

This year, Louis Vuitton updates Tambour with new finishes and a decidedly slimmer, sculpted case. The new collection is more luxurious overall and notably highlights an all-new in-house movement and a sleek integrated steel bracelet.

Two new steel watches launch the collection’s upgrade. One is a chic monochrome model with a silver grey dial and the second one sports a deep blue dial. Both are built to highlight the new unisex 40mm by 8.3mm case, its new caliber LFT023 and the new bracelet. A rose gold model and a two-tone gold and steel edition are also now available. Price: $18,500 or $52,500 (rose gold) or $26,500 (two-tone). 

 

MB&F: Horological Machine Nº11 Architect.

This house for your wrist features four titanium ‘rooms’ radiating from a sapphire-domed central flying tourbillon. The surprising new watch recalls the designs of mid-twentieth century biomorphic-style houses, with four symmetrical parabolic ‘rooms’ emanating from a central atrium. 

Each room houses a display, with one showing the time, the next showing the watch’s power reserve, a third indicating temperature and the fourth housing the winding crown. The wearer can choose which display is in direct eyesight when wearing the watch by rotating the entire housing, which will click into place as desired. Price: $200,000.

 

 

Nomos: Rose Gold Neomatik

In a year of terrific debuts by this Glashütte-based watchmaker, this rose gold designs stood out for its unusually luxurious dressing. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a limited edition 35mm model in honor of the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte. Limited to 175 pieces worldwide, the new watch adds a sub-seconds dial and minute markers in rose gold to the original’s galvanically white silver-plated dial. And while the first Tangente series reveled in its manual-wind minimalism, the new model is powered  by the Nomos DUW 3001, a thin automatic movement adjusted to chronometer standards. Price: $11,100.

 

 

Parmigiani Fleurier: Tonda PF Sport Chronograph 

Parmigiani Fleurier replaced its Tonda GT collection with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph and Tonda PF Sport Automatic, both more refined than its predecessor. We like the chronograph best here, as it combines the most attractive elements of the new Tonda PF collection (the knurled bezel, clean dials and revamped bracelets) with its 42mm by 12.9mm ‘panda’-styling. 

Inside, the watchmaker fits its stunning Caliber PF070, a superb high-frequency (5Hz – 36,000 vph) manufacture movement with an integrated column wheel chronograph and a vertical clutch. The COSC-certified Chronometer offers a power reserve of sixty-five hours.

Prices: $50,200 (chronograph in rose gold), $29,000 (chronograph in steel).

For the first time, Nomos dresses its automatic Tangente in rose gold, launching the Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik as a limited-edition model in honor of the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte.

The new Nomos Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik 175 Years of Watchmaking.

As the latest addition in the Nomos 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte series, the new watch is a luxurious ode to both the German city’s long watchmaking history and to the Tangente itself, which has been a bestseller (in its usual 35mm steel case) for the watchmaker for thirty years.

The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik has a white silver-plated dial with an outer ring, sub-seconds dial, and minute markers in gold.

Limited to 175 pieces worldwide, the new watch adds a sub-seconds dial and minute markers in rose gold to the original’s galvanically white silver-plated dial.

At 6.9mm high, the Tangente rose gold neomatik from Nomos Glashütte is just a bit taller than Tangente with manual winding.

And while the first Tangente series reveled in its manual-wind minimalism, the new model is powered  by the Nomos DUW 3001, a thin automatic movement adjusted to chronometer standards.

The in-house neomatik movement DUW 3001 with the Nomos Swing System is thin and regulated to chronometer standards for the special edition.

Nomos attaches the celebratory model to an equally luxurious precious strap and clasp. The Berlin-designed clasp, crafted from 18-karat gold and hand-polished, holds a strap from Horween made of thick shell Cordovan.

Price: $11,100.

Nomos dresses its Metro 33 in new dial colors, including silver, sage, and muted red, each meant to recall various urban sights such as red brick, glass buildings and city parks. 

Originally created by designer Mark Braun ten years ago, the Metro collection added small (33mm) models quite recently, each cased in rose gold.

One of three new Nomos Metro 33 models.

The newest trio expands the dial and case options for Metro in that same petite size, retaining the defining Metro characteristics such as a double-curved sapphire crystal, wire lugs with quick-change spring bars and a custom Metro crown with diamond knurling.

Braun added a few extra features for this trio of debut watches, notably the pink and yellow seconds hands and minute markers on their respective dials.

“These three smaller models are successfully expressing what my original Metro was able to express for me in 2014, Braun explains. “For me, they are what I understand by contemporary elegance: smart, playful, and full of energy.”

Inside each new model Nomos fits its Alpha proprietary manual-wind caliber, visible if desired via the optional clear sapphire caseback.

Nomos finishes each watch with a snappy vegan velour leather strap in light gray.

Prices: $2,030 (with steel back) and $2,330 (with sapphire back). 

Nomos introduces two automatic Ahoi watches with a new case size and two new dial colors.

The new Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Sand from Nomos Glashütte.

The new steel-cased  Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Sky and the Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Sand each measure 38.5mm in diameter, a new mid-sized option for the sporty Ahoi collection. And with 200-meters of water resistance, the new Ahoi models live up to their names as they can be worn on any beach and regardless of inclement weather.

The new Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date Sky.

Nomos assures consumers that the Ahoi is also shock resistant thanks to a solid angular crown guard and a screw-down crown.

A red warning ring indicates that the crown is not yet screwed in.

Nomos also adds a screwed-down case back that, despite its manufacture from scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, remains water resistant while also offering a view of the nicely decorated automatic date caliber DUW 6101. A solid case back is also available and can be engraved at no extra cost.

Inside each new Ahoi is DUW 6101, a thin Nomos Neomatik caliber equipped with the patented Nomos date mechanism and the in-house built NOMOS swing system. A solid back is also available.

 

Both watches measure a slim 9.9mm in height, which with a mid-sized 38.5mm diameter positions each watch nicely under any cuffed shirt if need for any long sleeve attire arises during the remainder of the summer.

Nomos thoughtfully provides an anti-reflective coating on both sides of each model’s sapphire crystal, which makes it easy to see the dial’s large numerals and contrasting sand-colored or sky-blue dials. And with a generous helping of SuperLuminova, the hands and markers are quite legible in low-light conditions.

Price: $4,320.