Following his apprenticeship with the late George Daniels, Roger Smith has taken up the totem as the British master nonpareil. Devoting such exquisite attention to detail for every component of every watch, Smith’s timepieces are a rarity and among the most sought-after among wealthy collectors.
Roger Smith’s 100th watch is a triple calendar. It’s the first in his Series 4 collection.
His most recent watch, an instantaneous triple calendar, here represents only the one-hundredth individual watch made at his Isle of Man atelier over the course of twenty years. Smith’s watches embrace an ethos of subtle complexity and understated ingenuity and finesse. Supremely elegant and easy to read, Smith’s latest creation houses his own manual-wind movement with the updated monobloc co-axial escape wheel.
The entire movement is finished with exquisite fillagree and frosting in gold with components held securely with screws authentically heat-treated to a variegated blue and purple hue.
Smith’s date display is a bracket that circles the perimeter of the dial and frames the current day of the month.
On the dial-side more sophisticated aficionados will note the elegant solution to the day-of-the-month display. Rather than the typical date pointer with a hand that reaches out from the central post, Smith has deftly incorporated a system that uses a bracket that circles the perimeter of the dial and frames the current day of the month, leaving the view of the other displays uninterrupted by an additional hand emanating from the center.
This absolutely stunning timepiece, the first of Smith’s Series 4 collection, can be customized to some extent and is only available by individual consignment for patient collectors. Although the atelier does not advertise prices, you can figure on a starting point in the neighborhood of $300,000.
I first became aware of Richard Paige approximately nine years ago via various watch forums. We instantly hit it off because we appreciate Art Deco and independent watchmaking. Before establishing his own brand called RPaige Watches, Richard owned a successful high-profile watch boutique in California. The flagship store called, Paris 1925, was located in San Francisco.
However, after several years in the business, Paige became very frustrated dealing with corporate groups. At this stage, he started TimeZone.com, which is considered a template for many new watch blogs.
The RPaige Speakeasy, with an Art Deco dial, case and font. Inside is a vintage Waltham movement.
For several years Paige has resided in Honolulu, where he spends his days creating beautiful timepieces for discerning customers around the globe. The unique selling point of RPaige Watches is the striking Art Deco-inspired aesthetic and the choice of historic movements. Early on, Richard decided to use vintage pocket watch calibers from Elgin (Illinois) and Waltham (Massachusetts) and originally manufactured between 1897 and 1929.
Enamel JukeBox
Over the years Richard has created several popular collections like the Aviator, DuoFace, Skyscraper and Speakeasy. A few months ago Paige mentioned to me that he would be unveiling a dress style watch called the JukeBox, inspired by the 1940’s Moderne style of vintage watches.
The RPaige JukeBox features a beautiful white enamel dial.
JukeBox is a departure from the Art Deco style, and is the smallest timepiece RPaige has created, with a brushed steel case measuring 41mm x 12mm. Certainly, the finished result is impressive, and I am sure devotees of the brand will be enticed.
Even though the JukeBox is a limited series (100 pieces) every watch will have a different dial. This means that customers essentially will get the opportunity to own a unique 1/1 piece that is assembled in Paige’s own workshop.
For this review, I’ll focus on the latest JukeBox model (numbered 71/100) with a beautiful white vintage antique fire-enameled dial. It is also priced very competitively at $1,400. Other features include bold black (12-hour) and red (24-hour) Arabic numerals. This model also has a steel crown with inset blue crystal and blue enameled Cathedral style hour/minute hands with luminous coating.
The manual-wind Unitas 6498-1, with higher-end finish, is visible from the clear caseback.
Powering the watch is a Swiss-made Elabore-grade (higher-end-version) 17-jewel Unitas 6498-1. The manual-wind mechanism oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and is visible via the sapphire crystal exhibition case back.
This use of the Unitas caliber represents a different direction for RPaige, which has previously only used vintage U.S. calibers. I suspect it’s an availability issue, but feel this is a great alternative.
As a final touch, the JukeBox is presented on a brown genuine alligator strap, with brown stitching and steel buckle. Price: $1,400.
Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.
MB&F has expanded and updated its popular Legacy Machine 101 collection, which features one of the independent watchmaker’s most compact (40mm) creations and the first to be powered by a movement entirely designed and built by the watchmaker’s own engineering team.
MB&F cases one of its three new LM101 debuts in steel.
A dramatic suspended balance wheel still dominates the LM101, but this latest design enhances the dial display with a double hairspring. You might recognize the addition: It’s the same hairspring found in the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser collaboration, which sold out quickly after its debut last year.
Reading the time and the power reserve on the new LM101 is also made easier thanks to larger subdials and a slimmer bezel than we’ve seen on previous versions of the watch. Underneath the new hairspring and larger subdials MB&F is offering a new dial for this latest LM101.
In addition to the three new lacquered dial colors, note the new finely engraved sunray pattern, which MB&F places directly on top of the movement plate.
Aesthetics and finishing specifications for LM101 are by Kari Voutilainen.
And finally, one of the three LM101 debuts is cased in steel, which MB&F utilizes fairly infrequently as a case material. The debut includes three editions: white gold with a striking purple dial, red gold with a handsome dark blue dial ($68,000) and in a stainless steel case with a light blue dial ($56,000).
Specifications: MB&F Legacy Machine 101
Movement: Three-dimensional horological movement developed in-house by MB&F. Aesthetics and finishing specifications by Kari Voutilainen. Manual winding with single mainspring barrel and power reserve of 45 hours. The balance is 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement. The balance spring, via H. Moser, features a traditional Breguet curve terminating in mobile stud holder and a Straumann double hairspring. Balance frequency is 18,000bph (2.5Hz). Finishing includes gold chatons with polished countersinks, fine hand finishing with superlative 19th century-style; internal bevel angles, polished bevels, Geneva waves; hand-made engravings, NAC black bridges for the 2021 editions.
Dial: Lacquered royal blue, light blue or purple. Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator and large 14mm suspended balance wheel.
Case: 40mm x16mm in white gold, red gold and stainless steel. High domed crystal sapphire on top and box sapphire crystal on back, both with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator or veal strap with buckle to match the case.
Junghans celebrates its 160th anniversary this year with an impressive array of new watches that primarily feature the German-based watchmaker and clockmaker’s historically based Max Bill and Meister collections.
The new Junghans Max Bill Regulator is one of three Max Bill watches offered as part of a limited edition set.
In addition, Junghans adds a limited-edition model to its newer, minimalist Form line while also reviving a long-time favorite kitchen clock/timer it originally debuted in the 1950s.
Junghans has revived a kitchen clock/timer originally sold in the 1950s.
Here, we’ll focus on the additions to the Meister line, with special attention to the Meister Signature Hand-winding Edition 160. Look to future postings for details about the clock and the Max Bill collection updates, or check them out here on the Junghans website.
Gold Meister
The new Meister Signature Hand-winding Edition 160 is a manual-wind model cased in 18-karat gold and fit with an interesting Junghans movement that oscillates at a leisurely 18,000 bph. Measuring a wrist-friendly 39mm in diameter, the limited edition (of 160) watch recalls dress watch styling from the 1960s and 1970s, which Junghans underscores with a decidedly retro rendition of its brand name, as seen on Junghans products of yore.
The new Junghans Meister Signature Hand-winding Edition 160.
Junghans produced the original J620 hand-winding movement between 1966 and 1975 and utilized it for a wide range of mechanical three-hand wristwatches. The J620 can also be found in the Junghans Olympic series of 14-karat gold watches made in 1971 and 1972.
The original Junghans J620 manual-wind movement (right) and the new gold-plated caliber.
For the new watch, Junghans has disassembled, decorated and reassembled existing, historical J620 movements, plating each with a coat of 18-karat rose gold for good measure. And Junghans has thoughtfully provided a clear sapphire caseback to view the work. Price: $9,800.
Meister Power Reserve
Displaying an unusual vertical power reserve indicator just above the 6 o’clock position, the new Meister Gangreserve (power reserve) Edition 160 echoes a similar design Junghans released in the 1950s.
On the steel Junghans Meister Gangreserve (power reserve) Edition 160, the power reserve indicator gradually changes from green to yellow to red as reserve is reduced.
As the power reserve recedes, the indicator’s color on the steel-bracelet model gradually changes from green to yellow and finally to red, which indicates that it’s time to wind the automatic watch again. Two leather-strap models are more subtle: When fully charged, the indicator shows the dial color (see example below). At fifty percent power, the indicator turn gray, and when power drops to zero, the indicator shows red. The Meister Gangreserve Edition 160 is limited to only 160 watches in each of three versions. Prices start at $1,700.
Meister Fein Automatic
This very modern design features a new convex case to frame its minimalist dial. Though not technically thin, it appears so on the wrist with a 39.5mm diameter, almost absent bezel and long hands and markers.
The Junghans Meister Fein Automatic.
Only a date window interrupts the finely detailed dial. Inside, Junghans places a self-winding (ETA-based) J800.1 movement with a power reserve of up to 38 hours. Prices begin at $1,450.
A side view of the Junghans Meister Fein Automatic shows the new convex case.
Meister S Chronoscope, Platinum Edition 160
Junghans cases its most limited anniversary model in polished platinum. The Chronoscope is one of the brand’s top sellers, and here Junghans creates a twelve-piece numbered edition, with the limited edition number cleverly noted within the twelve-hour counter.
The new Junghans Meister S Chronoscope, Platinum Edition 160.
The 45mm by 15.9mm watch features a screwed solid platinum case back with edition logo engraving and a platinum screwed crown (and tube). Its dial reflects the precious case with a gold-hued markers and a nice lacquer finish that fades from matte silver-plate in the center to grey at the edge, set with luminous markers.
The new Junghans Meister S Chronoscope Platinum Edition 160 dial
The synthetic rubber strap features an alligator leather inlay and a platinum buckle. Price: $19,200.
Movement: Historical hand-winding Junghans movement J620 with a power reserve of up to 45 hours, 18,000 bph, rose-gold plated, sunburst ratchet wheel, polished barrel bridge, gear bridge and balance cock with fine longitudinal grinding, stones in polished, bowl-shaped countersinks, outside with fine diamond cut, polished steel screws, Junghans star and caliber number engraving.
The Junghans J620 manual-wind movement.
Case: 39mm by 10.3mm rose gold, five-times screwed gold caseback with sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating on both sides, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating on both sides. Water resistant to 100 meters.
Dial: Matte silver-plated, minute track with applied dots, dauphin hands with diamond cut.
Reflecting on my visits to what was once Baselworld, I fondly recall the booth created by Cuervo y Sobrinos, which replicated a Cuban bar especially for the event.
The booth played on the unique selling point for Cuervo y Sobrinos: its true Latin Legacy. The company dates to 1882 when Spanish immigrant Ramon Fernandos Cuervo established his first jewelry store on Calle de la Amistad in Havana.
The brand developed a solid reputation within the industry, and in 2018 Massimo Rossi and a team of investors acquired the name. Fortunately, Cuervo y Sobrinos, now making watches in Switzerland, has continued the successful legacy of the name and unveiled many new timepieces. A great example can be found in the exquisite limited edition (100-pieces) Historiador Landeron.
The Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Landeron 3146.1N
Historic caliber
The significance of the Historiador Landeron is the mechanical movement that powers it. Cuervo y Sobrinos rediscovered a vintage caliber called the Landeron 248, which dates back to 1946. It was used in one of the Swiss brand’s premium historical chronographs and was used by many brands in the 1950s and 1960s.
Original Cuervo y Sobrinos watch fit with a Landeron movement.
Cuervo y Sobrinos recently debuted a modern incarnation of its historic Landeron chronographs with a fully restored version of the Landeron 248 movement, which Cuervo y Sobrinos showcases via the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. Viewers are treated to an eye-catching view of the wheels and levers in motion.
Up-close on a Vintage Cuervo y Sobrinos Landeron Movement.
Cuervo y Sobrinos makes two interesting versions of the Historiador Landeron, each with with different dial options. The 3146.1W model features a white dial with tachymeter in blue and hours printed in black. The 3146.1N offers a black dial with gold color indexes and a tachymeter in white.
The newly rebuilt Landeron 248 Movement, now inside the Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Landeron.
Both these vintage-inspired watches have an enormous amount of style, but my preference is the black dial model. But if you like vintage style dress watches, both of these models are exceptionally enticing.
The Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Landeron 3146.1N.
Even though the 40mm stainless steel case is much smaller than I choose to wear, it will certainly appeal to a broad demographic. I would also imagine it would be exceedingly comfortable to wear.
The Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Landeron 3146.1W.
As a perfect finishing touch, Cuervo y Sobrinos equips the Historiador Landeron with a dark blue, high-gloss Louisiana alligator strap on the 3146.1W version and a black matte Louisiana alligator on the 3146.1N model. Price: $5,100.
Back view of the The Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Landeron 3146.1W.
Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.
In addition to the three new lacquered dial colors, note the new finely engraved sunray pattern, which MB&F places directly on top of the movement plate.
