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The Watches

H. Moser Dials Up the Green

H. Moser doubles up on green-dial mania with two debuts within its Pioneer Centre Seconds collection.

The new H.Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds Citrus

One model, the decidedly unsubtle 42.8mm steel-cased Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green, demands attention on the wrist thanks to its bright green dial. Entirely without a logo or any indexes, only the watch’s leaf-shaped hands are visible. With a generous helping of SuperLuminova, the hands are especially visible in the dark, framed by a SuperLuminova-filled inner flange circle.

H. Moser, an independent brand that revels in provocative dial design, calls the debut “a legit feel-good watch, it’s the perfect companion for hitting the waves or diving to the depths in style, all the way to 120 meters.”

A second, more traditional addition to the collection is the new Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green model, with a 40-mm steel case that only barely retains the H. Moser & Cie. logo.

The new H. Moser Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green

Visible upon close inspection, the logo can be seen, written in transparent lacquer, on the watch’s Cosmic Green fumé dial, which denotes time using classic faceted indexes and the same leaf-shaped hands as its brighter sibling.

H. Moser powers both models with its superb HMC 201 automatic caliber, which boasts automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, an engraved oscillating weight and a power reserve of three days.

See below for additional technical details for each of these H. Moser Green-dialed debuts.  

Price: $15,900. 

 

Specifications: H.Moser Pioneer Center Seconds Concept Citrus Green  

(Reference 3201-1204, steel model, Citrus Green fumé dial, rubber, textile, alligator leather strap or steel bracelet)

Case: Steel, 42.8 mm by 14.2mm, height without sapphire crystal: 10.6 mm. Domed sapphire crystal and see-through case-back, screw-in crown adorned with an “M”, water-resistant to 12 ATM.

Dial: Citrus Green fumé with sunburst pattern, leaf-shaped hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova, white inner flange filled with SuperLumiNova.

Movement: HMC 201 automatic caliber, frequency: 21,600 Vib/h, 27 jewels, automatic bi-directional pawl winding system,

Engraved oscillating weight

Power reserve: minimum of 3 days

Hacking seconds

Original Straumann hairspring

Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes

Partially skeletonized bridges

Strap/bracelet:

Hand-stitched alligator leather, rubber, or textile strap or steel bracelet

Steel pin buckle engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo.

Price: $15,900.

Specifications: H.Moser Pioneer Center Seconds Cosmic Green

(Reference 3201-1201, steel model, Cosmic Green fumé dial, rubber, textile, alligator leather strap or steel bracelet)

Case: Steel, diameter: 40.0mm, height without sapphire crystal: 10.4 mm; Height with sapphire crystal: 12.0 mm, Domed sapphire crystal and see-through case-back, screw-in crown adorned with an “M”, water-resistant to 12 ATM.

Dial: Cosmic Green fumé with sunburst pattern

H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer

Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova

Faceted applique indices

Movement:

HMC 201 automatic caliber

Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system

Engraved oscillating weight

Power reserve: minimum of 3 days

Hacking seconds

Original Straumann hairspring

Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes

Partially skeletonized bridges

Strap/bracelet:

Hand-stitched alligator leather, rubber, or textile strap or steel bracelet

Steel pin buckle engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. logo.

Price: $15,900.

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The Watches

H.Moser Adds Jade to Streamliner 

H. Moser fits a stunning dial made from Wyoming-sourced jade into its Streamliner tourbillon to create the new Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Wyoming Jade, a limited edition (of 100) red gold watch.

The new H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Wyoming Jade.

The logo-free jade dial allows the Streamliner’s one-minute flying tourbillon to stand out nicely (at 6 o’clock), highlighting this independent Swiss watchmaker’s considerable technical and artisanal talent.

Collectors may be familiar with the Streamliner’s retro-styled cushion case and the unusual double-hairspring HMC 804 automatic caliber that powers the watch, but until now no one has seen how a rare olive-toned slice of jade can enhance the Streamliner’s pleasing aesthetic.

H. Moser explains that its dial-makers sourced the dial’s raw material from Wyoming. Chosen for its naturally occurring marks and unique shades, the jade used on the dial is untreated out of “respect for its original structure.” 

With the selected material, H. Moser explains that lapidary artisans cut the stone using CNC technology in a liquid environment to create a slice 1.0 to 1.2 mm thick. “These slices are then laid on jigs, wetted and inspected under a light to determine the optimal positioning of the plates for cutting the dials.” After hand polishing, dial makers varnish and then glue the dials onto a brass base.

H. Moser frames the dial of the new watch with a 40mm by 12.1mm red gold case, held with an equally luxurious red gold integrated bracelet. (See below for full technical specifications). 

Price: $119,000.

Specifications: H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Wyoming Jade

Reference 6804-0406, red gold model, natural Wyoming jade dial, integrated bracelet in red gold, limited edition of 100 pieces 

Case:

5N red gold topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal

Diameter: 40.0 mm

Height without sapphire crystal: 10.3 mm

Height with sapphire crystal: 12.1 mm 

Screw-in crown adorned with an engraved “M”

See-through sapphire crystal case-back

Water-resistant to 12 ATM 

Dial:

Wyoming jade, 100% natural

Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts 

5N red gold faceted indices 

Movement:

HMC 804 automatic Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes 

Height: 5.5 mm 

Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system 

Oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo 

Power reserve: minimum of 3 days 

One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonized bridges 

Original double hairspring 

Strap/bracelet:

Integrated bracelet in 5N red gold  

Folding clasp with three blades in 5N red gold, engraved with the Moser logo 

Half-links available.

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The Watches

H. Moser Thins Streamliner with New Micro-Rotor

H. Moser & Cie. creates its thinnest and smallest Streamliner yet with the new Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel, a sleek 39mm cushion-cased steel watch that debuts automatic caliber HMC 500, the independent watchmaker’s first movement with a micro-rotor.

The new H. Moser Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel.

Boasting a very slightly elongated cushion shape and a seriously stunning Grand Feu ‘Aqua Blue’ enamel dial, the new watch retains Streamliner collection’s organic curves and integrated bracelet design.

And with the new, thin movement the watch is among H. Moser’s thinnest at 10.9mm high.

H. Moser mounts its new platinum micro-rotor on a ball bearing and equips it with a bi-directional pawl winding system that offers a solid seventy-four-hour power reserve.

Despite a smaller escapement, the movement’s performance remains as strong as H. Moser’s existing, larger calibers. (See full specifications below).

Made from solid platinum, the micro-rotor is mounted on a ball bearing, equipped with a bi-directional pawl winding system.

Developed in tandem with H. Moser’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG, the movement will serve as a base for the watchmaker’s small-case designs going forward, and will “enable us to introduce new complications, by combining it with modules developed in-house or in collaboration with our partner Agenhor,” explains Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser artisans wash three different color pigments, which are then finely crushed and applied to the dial.

Moser creates the logo-free translucent enamel by painstakingly firing the substance twelve times to create the fumé effect. In a nice contrast to this primary dial, an offset small seconds display at 6 o’clock is lacquered with a circular pattern.

Price: $32,900.

 

Specifications: H. Moser Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

(Reference 6500-1200, steel model, Aqua Blue fumé dial, integrated steel bracelet.) 

Case:

Steel topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal

Diameter: 39.0 mm

Height without sapphire crystal: 9.3 mm; Height with sapphire crystal: 10.9 mm

See-through case-back 

Screw-in crown adorned with an “M”

Water-resistant to 120 meters

Dial:

Aqua Blue fumé “Grand Feu” enamel with hammered texture 

Applique indices 

Hour and minute hands with Globolight inserts 

Lacquered small seconds sub-dial with a circular pattern

Movement:

Automatic calibre HMC 500, partially skeletonized

Diameter: 30.0 mm or 13 1/4 lignes

Height: 4.5 mm 

Frequency:  21,600 Vb/h

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system 

Solid platinum micro-rotor engraved with the H. Moser hallmark 

Power reserve: minimum of 74 hours

Original Straumann hairspring 

Finish with Moser stripes 

Strap/bracelet:

Integrated steel bracelet  

Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo 

Price: $32,900.

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Featured Events

Only Watch 2023: MB&F and H. Moser 

We continue to highlight a few of our favorite watches from among the more than sixty watchmakers that have created timepieces for the Only Watch charity auction, which commences Sunday, November 5, in Geneva. Christie’s will auction these incredible one-of-a-kind watches to raise funds that benefit research in the battle against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

While you may have seen a few of the watches set for auction earlier this year when Only Watch announced them, we thought you’d enjoy seeing many of these impressive designs again just ahead of the event.

The watches are currently touring the globe. After concluding their U.S. visit at Christie’s in New York on September 17, the tour will visit Monaco next, followed by stops in Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Dubai and back in Geneva. See the Only Watch website for tour dates and details.

The H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium.

Here we highlight the H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium, the Only Watch entry for both MB&F and H. Moser. 

This unusual creation, named to emphasize the ‘panda,’ combines elements we’ve seen in earlier designs from both of these pioneering independent watchmakers. On top of the dial you’ll see a miniature white gold panda, which is already a signature of the Only Watch creations by MB&F.

Here the Panda is the DJ for the minute repeater visible on the fumé dial.

As MB&F founder Max Büsser explains, “Our original panda was created as an allegory for Only Watch 2011, and returned in 2021, before now making its third appearance in 2023. This time, it is an invitation to immerse yourself in the world of music and lose all touch with reality for just a few beats”.

The watch’s dial showcases the large suspended balance wheel characteristic of other MB&F watches, while the stunning aquamarine dial echoes the minimalism found throughout the H. Moser collection. 

The dial’s ‘turntables’ are fitted on the axis of the hammers and are driven by the rotation of the mechanism as it operates. The 5.35mm tall miniature took hours to create and build. The unusual balance wheel required its maker to first bend the gongs in two places to allow them to pass over the balance wheel bridge. Occupying three dimensions, the shaped gongs feature a flat coil and an upper coil, positioned one on top of the other.

Furthermore, H. Moser built the minute repeater’s sliding bolt on a Teflon runner to ensure it slides perfectly smoothly. It’s built into the main plate to save space. The case middle has been completely hollowed out in order to accommodate the movement while allowing enough space to create a soundbox. 

Estimate: CHF 300,000 to CHF 400,000

 

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The Watches

H. Moser Genesis Melds Virtual and Physical

H. Moser & Cie. steps firmly into the metaverse with a project that links both physical and virtual dimensions.

The new H. Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, with a micro-blasted 40mm steel case with a 3D-printed titanium crown and ‘pixelated’ bezel.

The new Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, is a micro-blasted 40mm steel watch with a 3D-printed titanium crown, an ultra-dark Vantablack dial and a bezel that seems pixelated.  

The watch’s virtual appearance is underscored by multiple digital assets, including a unique QR code engraved on its sapphire crystal that allows the owner to authenticate watch ownership.

The code will also allow priority to purchase certain future limited editions, blockchain authentication, membership of the Moser community and a virtual Swiss chalet, plus access to various H. Moser launch events.

The watch is also the first piece in a triptych, and its owner will have access to the next two pieces.

H. Moser is offering the time-only Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis model as a limited edition of fifty pieces. Price: CHF 27,000.

Specifications: H. Moser Endeavour Center Seconds Genesis

(Reference 1200-1238)

Case: 40mm by 11.3mm micro-blasted steel, 3D-printed titanium crown and bezel with pixelated look, sapphire crystal with engraved QR code, see-through case-back. 

Dial: Vantablack with black leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. Hours, minutes and central seconds.

Movement: H.Moser HMC 200 automatic caliber, frequency: 21,600 Vib/h, automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, solid 18-karat gold oscillating weight engraved with the H. Moser hallmark, 3-day power reserve, original Straumann hairspring. 

Strap: Hand-stitched grey kudu leather, micro-blasted steel pin buckle.

Price: CHF 27,000.

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