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Only Watch 2023: MB&F and H. Moser 

We continue to highlight a few of our favorite watches from among the more than sixty watchmakers that have created timepieces for the Only Watch charity auction, which commences Sunday, November 5, in Geneva. Christie’s will auction these incredible one-of-a-kind watches to raise funds that benefit research in the battle against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

While you may have seen a few of the watches set for auction earlier this year when Only Watch announced them, we thought you’d enjoy seeing many of these impressive designs again just ahead of the event.

The watches are currently touring the globe. After concluding their U.S. visit at Christie’s in New York on September 17, the tour will visit Monaco next, followed by stops in Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Dubai and back in Geneva. See the Only Watch website for tour dates and details.

The H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium.

Here we highlight the H. Moser X MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium, the Only Watch entry for both MB&F and H. Moser. 

This unusual creation, named to emphasize the ‘panda,’ combines elements we’ve seen in earlier designs from both of these pioneering independent watchmakers. On top of the dial you’ll see a miniature white gold panda, which is already a signature of the Only Watch creations by MB&F.

Here the Panda is the DJ for the minute repeater visible on the fumé dial.

As MB&F founder Max Büsser explains, “Our original panda was created as an allegory for Only Watch 2011, and returned in 2021, before now making its third appearance in 2023. This time, it is an invitation to immerse yourself in the world of music and lose all touch with reality for just a few beats”.

The watch’s dial showcases the large suspended balance wheel characteristic of other MB&F watches, while the stunning aquamarine dial echoes the minimalism found throughout the H. Moser collection. 

The dial’s ‘turntables’ are fitted on the axis of the hammers and are driven by the rotation of the mechanism as it operates. The 5.35mm tall miniature took hours to create and build. The unusual balance wheel required its maker to first bend the gongs in two places to allow them to pass over the balance wheel bridge. Occupying three dimensions, the shaped gongs feature a flat coil and an upper coil, positioned one on top of the other.

Furthermore, H. Moser built the minute repeater’s sliding bolt on a Teflon runner to ensure it slides perfectly smoothly. It’s built into the main plate to save space. The case middle has been completely hollowed out in order to accommodate the movement while allowing enough space to create a soundbox. 

Estimate: CHF 300,000 to CHF 400,000

 

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The Watches

H. Moser Genesis Melds Virtual and Physical

H. Moser & Cie. steps firmly into the metaverse with a project that links both physical and virtual dimensions.

The new H. Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, with a micro-blasted 40mm steel case with a 3D-printed titanium crown and ‘pixelated’ bezel.

The new Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, is a micro-blasted 40mm steel watch with a 3D-printed titanium crown, an ultra-dark Vantablack dial and a bezel that seems pixelated.  

The watch’s virtual appearance is underscored by multiple digital assets, including a unique QR code engraved on its sapphire crystal that allows the owner to authenticate watch ownership.

The code will also allow priority to purchase certain future limited editions, blockchain authentication, membership of the Moser community and a virtual Swiss chalet, plus access to various H. Moser launch events.

The watch is also the first piece in a triptych, and its owner will have access to the next two pieces.

H. Moser is offering the time-only Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis model as a limited edition of fifty pieces. Price: CHF 27,000.

Specifications: H. Moser Endeavour Center Seconds Genesis

(Reference 1200-1238)

Case: 40mm by 11.3mm micro-blasted steel, 3D-printed titanium crown and bezel with pixelated look, sapphire crystal with engraved QR code, see-through case-back. 

Dial: Vantablack with black leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. Hours, minutes and central seconds.

Movement: H.Moser HMC 200 automatic caliber, frequency: 21,600 Vib/h, automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, solid 18-karat gold oscillating weight engraved with the H. Moser hallmark, 3-day power reserve, original Straumann hairspring. 

Strap: Hand-stitched grey kudu leather, micro-blasted steel pin buckle.

Price: CHF 27,000.

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The Watches

H. Moser Sets Sapphires into Streamliner

H. Moser & Cie. sets a glamorous rainbow of sapphires around the bezel of two of its Streamliner Tourbillon models.

The H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow, here in red gold.

The already spectacular watch, which highlights an eye-catching one-minute flying tourbillon at the six-o’clock position, can now be purchased as the Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow with its tourbillon framed by a sparkling selection of sixty baguette sapphires set in either a red gold or steel cushion-shaped case.

The H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Rainbow, here in steel.

The red gold edition is matched with the brand’s famed über-dark Vantablack dial while the steel version is set with an H. Moser signature fumé dial. Each watch is blessed with the same Streamliner integrated three-blade bracelet, a comfortable, brushed-finished beauty in either the steel or the red gold iteration. 

A luxurious detail here involves an extra-helping of the H. Moser gradient treatment. Not only do the sapphires gradually echo the colors of a rainbow as they circle the dial, their varying sizes nicely underscore the Streamliner’s retro-luxe cushion-shaped case.

Those familiar with the H. Moser one-minute flying tourbillon set in the watch’s HMC 804 caliber know that is equipped with a double hairspring designed and produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company Precision Engineering AG. As Moser explains, the matched hairsprings mean that the movement’s friction errors are minimized immediately, significantly improving accuracy and isochronism.

Prices: $119,900 (steel) and $175,000 (red gold).

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The Watches

Bucherer Adds a Trio to Blue Series

Bucherer adds watches from Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie and L’Epée to its Bucherer Blue series of customized, limited edition models.

All are finished in the Bucherer Blue color, meant to reflect its place in the watch retailer’s collection of custom-made, similarly hued watches made in partnership with a wide range of Swiss watchmakers. Each watch will be available as a limited edition of eighteen pieces.

The new Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue.

Girard-Perregaux

The new Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue builds on this watchmakers’s Neo series, a contemporary version of its famed Tourbillon with Three Bridges.

The watch is cased in titanium and features a trio of blued bridges also made from titanium. The three bridges not only support the geartrain, barrel and tourbillon, but also act as the mainplate. This design creates the impression that the bridges are floating.

Girard-Perregaux fits the 44mm case between two sapphire crystal glass boxes, which enhances the transparency – and the modernity – of the piece. Price: $167,000.

The H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue.

H. Moser & Cie. 

Independent watchmaker H. Moser sets its Deco-styled Streamliner Tourbillon with sixty baguette-cut blue sapphires (2.90 carats), apparently the first gemstone setting for this award-winning series.

Fit with the superb HMC 804 caliber, which features a flying tourbillon with double hairspring and a three-day power reserve, the watch also features a Moser fumé dial, set within the Streamliner’s 40mm steel case with integrated steel bracelet with articulated links.

The watch is the first Streamliner limited edition H. Moser has created for a partner. Price: $119,000.

The new L’Epée Time Fast Bucherer Blue.

L’Epée 1839 

The new L’Epée Time Fast Bucherer Blue combines the independent Swiss clockmaker’s existing Time Fast series with Bucherer’s blue hue. L’Epée’s design is meant to evoke memories of a 1950s-era single-seater race car.

Under the hood L’Epee builds a tiered movement with an eight-day power reserve shaped to the bodywork.

The user winds the 15-inch-long clock the same way a mechanical motor is wound in a pull-back toy car. The hours and minutes are displayed on the side through an aperture resembling a typical competition number, via two engraved stainless steel disks. Price: $34,000. 

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The Watches

Moser Debuts Stealthy Streamliner Tourbillon

H. Moser & Cie combines two of its trademark minimalist components into one of its best-known collections to create the new red gold Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack, which is also the first non-steel model within the award-winning Streamliner collection.

The new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack.

For this debut, the Schaffhausen-based independent watchmaker places its highly efficient, dual-hairspring automatic HMC 804 one-minute flying tourbillon caliber beneath a Vantablack dial, a design that features high-tech Vantablack, an ultra-black coating that absorbs more than 99 percent of all light.

The resulting ‘black hole’ dial beautifully contrasts with the finely wrought tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position, all framed by the Streamliner’s striking, Deco-influence cushion-shaped 5N red gold case.

H. Moser has created at least two Vantablack dials for watches in its Streamliner case. You might recall that H. Moser presented what may have been a precursor to this model with the steel-cased Streamliner Tourbillon with a Vantablack dial for the 2021 Only Watch charity auction. H. Moser also displayed a non-tourbillon iteration earlier this year at Watches and Wonders in Geneva when it displayed a one-off Streamliner ‘stealth concept’ watch.  

Here H. Moser & Cie. carefully enhances a sharp black/gold contrast by fixing the dial’s red gold indexes from the back of the dial so that they appear or disappear against the Vantablack. All this is framed by a case that H. Moser finishes with vertical brushing alternating with polished lines — an effect mirrored along the fully integrated red gold bracelet.As noted, H. Moser’s automatic HMC 804 caliber powers the watch and is equipped with a double hairspring made by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company Precision Engineering AG. This component, just one of many technical highlights found throughout H. Moser’s designs, reduces friction and improves the movement’s accuracy and isochronism. (See below for full specifications.) Price: $119,900. 

 

Specifications: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack

(Reference 6804-0400)

Movement: HMC 804 automatic Manufacture caliber, frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour,  automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, oscillating weight in 18-karat red gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo, power reserve of three days, original double hairspring, one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonized bridges.

Case: 40mm by 12.1mm 5N red gold topped by a slightly domed sapphire crystal, screw-in crown adorned with an engraved M, see-through sapphire crystal case-back, water-resistant to 120 meters.

Dial: Vantablack,  hour and minute hands with Globolight inserts, indices secured from the back of the dial using a plate.

Bracelet: Integrated in 5N red gold, folding clasp with three blades in 5N red gold, engraved with the Moser logo. 

Half-links available.

Price: $119,900. 

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