Among the eleven new watches debuted by Patek Philippe during Watches and Wonders, one debut in particular stands out for its technical advancement while others enliven existing collections with new colors, new casual (denim) straps, new case metals or, for one highlight, a sleek new bracelet.

New Patek Philippe World Time Reference Ref. 5330G-001.

World Timer localizes

The newest Patek Philippe World Time model joins the full collection after initially debuting as a limited edition last year during the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition Watch Art Tokyo 2023.

The watch, Ref. 5330G-001, now displays a date display synchronized with local time, which is a patented world-first and a notably useful travel function.

Patek Philippe watchmakers have added a specialized differential system to the watch’s automatic movement. The resulting change means the local date will appear along the edge of the dial, indicated with a transparent glass hand (a first for Patek Philippe) with a red tip.

In this illustration, note that the new Patek Philippe Caliber 240 HU C features a patented central differential system comprising two concentric star-type gear wheels to manage the local-time date.

The local time is the time zone selected at 12 o’clock and indicated by the center hands.

With its 40mm white gold case and handsome blue-grey opaline dial (with a block-pattern carbon center), the dressy model allows the wearer to simply press the pusher at 10 o’clock to move the move the local time zone indicated on the watch in one-hour increments.

With this simple gesture, the traveller can both see the local time while also noting the time differences globally, as seen on the multi-city dial indicator.

Patek Philippe displayed the new World Time Reference Ref. 5330G-001 with a new denim weave strap, a casual bracelet also seen on other debuts. Price: $76,594.

The newest Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

Golden Ellipse bracelet

Another head-turner at the Patek Philippe exhibition in Geneva was the supple new gold chain bracelet attached to the always elegant Golden Ellipse, Reference 5738/1R.

While often attached to various precious metal bracelets since its debut in 1968, the Golden Ellipse has in recent years been primarily a leather strap model, in part due to the difficulty in sizing the bracelet at the point of sale.

Patek Philippe explains that the new bracelet is the result of fifteen years of work. It is made of 18-karat hand-polished rose gold with a new, patented construction made of 363 parts, including more than 300 links, assembled manually.

The new clasp (above), with its engraved cover, offers a choice of three adjustment notches.

The bracelet debuts attached to a new rose gold edition of the 34.5mm-by-39.5mm fashion icon. For the debut Patek Philippe created a new sunburst ebony black dial with applied baton-type hour-markers and thin rose-gold hands.

Inside, Patek Philippe fits its celebrated self-winding caliber 240, an ultra-thin movement with off-center 22-karat gold mini-rotor. The movement’s thin profile means the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738 is now the slimmest watch in the Patek Philippe regular collection. Price: $60,097.

Other 2024 Patek Philippe debuts include:

A new dial on the Twenty~4 Reference 4910/1201R-010 ($47,607, pictured above) now displays eye-catching concentric waves coated with dozens of layers of translucent lacquer.

The new Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph, Reference 5980/60G-001.

A new edition of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph. The newest, Reference 5980/60G-001 ($78,951), revisits the hot sports model in white gold with a blue-gray opaline dial. Patek Philippe will deliver two matching straps with each watch.

One is a blue-gray calfskin embossed with a denim motif edged with contrasting white hand-stitching  (above) and the other is a blue-grey composite in a fabric motif.

The new Aquanaut Luce Haute Joaillerie Reference 5268/461G-001 ($235,674, pictured above) gleams in white gold set with diamonds and blue sapphires within snow and baguette settings.

On the rounded octagonal bezel, baguette-cut sapphires gradate from light blue to dark blue. Inside is Caliber 26-330 S, a self-winding movement visible through the sapphire-crystal back.

See all the 2024 debuts from Patek Philippe here.

Five Year Warranty

Also at Watches and Wonders 2024, Patek Philippe announced that for all new Patek Philippe watches sold as of May 1, 2024, the duration of the Patek Philippe warranty increases from two years to five years, counting from the date of purchase.

The latest entry to the Hublot Big Bang series is not so big and displays a bit less bang.

One of six debuts The new Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only collection.

The new Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only, one of many Watches and Wonders 2024 debuts from the Swiss watchmaker, takes Hublot back in time to its 1980 roots with its three-hand-and-date display within an integrated 38mm case. 

While 38mm models with similar dials can be found in the current Big Bang Original collection, all are higher-priced diamond models. (Most existing Big Bang Original models measure 41mm or 44mm in diameter.)

The existing models are all also attached to straps. The new models feature fully integrated bracelets that offer a clean, screw-free link with their case. 

The 2024 debut series maintains Big Bang’s so-called ‘ears’ on each side of the case, as well as the six H-shaped functional screws that secure the bezel. The new watches also displays time with the Big Bang’s familiar large skeleton hour hand and minute hand, each accompanied a seconds hand that is tipped with the Hublot ‘H’. And as you can see, the same even-numbered indexes mark the time on the dial.

As an added bonus, all the debuts feature soft ferromagnetic steel dials that protect the Hublot MHUB1115 automatic movement from the problematic effects of magnetic fields.

Hublot debuts the Big Bang Integrated Time Only series with six models. Two are made with a brushed titanium case and bracelet, with a black or a blue dial. The next two versions are in King Gold, also with a blue or black dial. 

Two more versions are in cased in ceramic. One is entirely navy blue with a blue dial while the other is a familiar Black Magic style (above) known to Hublot collectors. The watch’s case, bracelet and dial are black, which makes it the first Big Bang Black Magic with a 38mm diameter (with an exception within the Classic Fusion series.)

Prices: $13,100 (Titanium), $15,300 (blue ceramic and Black Magic) and $47,100 (King Gold). 

Smaller Fusion Too

We’ll have more downsizing from Hublot in future posts. These smaller new models include of the 29mm Classic Fusion Original and Classic Fusion series in various case metals, with or without diamonds.  Here’s a preview: 

Two examples of Hublot’s new Classic Fusion models available in a wide range of 29mm case metals.


Collectors in Geneva for Watches & Wonders 2024 can also stop in at the Patek Philippe Salon on Rue de Rhone, where the watchmaker will exhibit select items from its Rare Handcrafts 2024 collection.

From Saturday, April 13, to Saturday, April 27, 2024, watch enthusiasts can join the general public to see more than eighty artisanal watches, dome clocks, desk clocks and pocket watches during what is an annual high-end horological event in this premier watchmaker’s hometown.

The exhibit is a must-see for those who appreciate artisanal workmanship on all forms of timekeeping instruments. Beautifully rendered, hand-crafted dials, cases, stands and decorative accessories will be on display, many of which will exhibit examples of high-end enameling, marquetry, engraving, guilloché and dial-painting.   

Here are two examples of what Patek Philippe will have on display.

Portrait of a White Egret

Ref. 995/143G-001, Portrait of a White Egret

This 45mm white gold pocket watch is a unique piece featuring a case back in wood marquetry, highlighting a white egret and its plumage. The marquetry maker cut out and assembled fifty-three tiny veneer parts and 400 inlays, which include eighteen species of wood in different colors, textures and veining.


Artisans hand-guilloche the gold dial with a sunburst motif recalling the plumage and coat it with translucent blue enamel, according to the traditional technique of flinqué enameling.

Applied Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands, all in white gold, indicate the time. An orange opal cabochon echoing the golden color of the bird’s bill embellishes the crown.

The white gold stand is decorated with a motif inspired by reeds and is attached to an oval base in silver obsidian. Inside Patek Philippe fits a manually wound movement with small seconds.


Ref. 5089G-129, Morning on the Beach

This 38.6mm white gold Calatrava wristwatch features a dial in wood marquetry. A limited edition of ten, the watch’s dial highlights a surfer waiting for the waves on a California beach.

Morning on the Beach

To create the dial, the marquetry maker cut out and assembled 100 tiny veneer parts, as well as seventy-five microscopic inlays, together spanning twenty-three species of wood of different colors, textures and veining.

Dauphine-style hands in white gold with a pierced center fillet adorn the dial.

The white-gold case is endowed with a sapphire crystal case back protected by a hinged dust cover. When open, this allows a view of the caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement.

The Patek Philippe Salon is located at 41 Rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland, and is open from 10 am until 6:30 pm. It closes at 6 pm on Saturdays and is closed Sundays. 

British watchmaker Peter Speake continues his collaborative work with Geneva-based watch manufacture Frederique Constant, launching the Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake, a steel-grey hued edition of the brown-accented collaborative watch from 2022.

The new Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake.

The new 42mm steel-cased perpetual calendar retains the skeletonized design of the original model. The openwork design nicely displays Frederique Constant’s own automatic FC-775  caliber, here showing the hour and minutes without a seconds hand.

The idea is to allow the eye to more clearly focus on the perpetual calendar displays, which include the day and date, the month (at 12 o’clock), moonphase (at 6 o’clock) and, finally, the leap year. 

Frederique Constant explains that “since this detail is not needed for everyday use, it has been moved over to the month display at 12 o’clock. A discreet red dot appears for the month in question when the year has 366 days; at all other times, the window remains white.”

Frederique Constant finishes its in-house movement with a circular satin finish and blued screws. The watch’s transparent caseback displays an openwork, blue-colored oscillating weight. Also visible are the words ‘Limited Edition 135 pieces’ which are engraved on each watch. Each watch arrives on a grey nylon strap with matching overstitching. 

Price: $11,995.


Specifications: Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Designed by Peter Speake

(Reference FC-775PS4S6, a limited édition of 135) 

Functions: Hours, minutes, moonphase, date, day, month, leap year.


Movement: FC-775 in-house caliber, automatic, perpetual calendar, Perlage decoration on movement, anthracite bridge, blue rotor, satin finishing on all springs, circular finishing on perpetual calendar wheels, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 alt/h. 


Case: Polished stainless steel 3-part case, diameter of 42mm, height of 12,05 mm

Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal, see-through case back, water-resistant to 3 ATM/30m/100ft.


Dial: Grey color dial with matte finishing, skeleton, luminescent printed indexes, 

White and polished hands with luminous treatment, moonphase with luminous treatment.


Strap: Grey nylon strap with tone-on-tone stitching, folding buckle.


Availability March 2024 at the Citizen Flagship Store New York and at select Frederique Constant retailers.

Swiss watchmaker Cvstos has been making avant-garde mechanical watches for eighteen years at workshops in the center of Geneva, with production facilities just outside the city. 

Specializing in bold, tonneau-shaped watches, Cvstos reports that it concentrates primarily on creating an “ultra-contemporary, yet sporty dimension to the most sophisticated complications.”

The Cvstos Challenge Sealiner PS.

Among the latest set of Cvstos debuts, the Challenge Sealiner PS certainly embodies all those descriptions. At 41mm by 54mm, the watch’s impressive sapphire case is endowed with a non-reflective coating on both sides and is affixed with specialized Cvstos polished titanium screws.

And while the sapphire case allows a clear view of the movement from the back, it’s the teak dial that really sets the watch apart from other nautically themed models.

Just below the stylized luminous hands (including a very cool propeller-shaped small-seconds hand) lies a teak-wood plate, echoing the woodwork found on many an ocean-cruising yacht.

Additional Challenge models include examples with colorful sapphires set in titanium framing the teak plate.

Cvstos will make twenty-five examples of the Challenge Sealiner PS with orange or turquoise dial and crown accents and matching rubber strap.  Price: $49,500. 

Specifications: Cvstos Challenge Sealiner PS

 (A limited edition of 25 in each of two colors) 

Case: Tonneau-shaped 53.7 x 41 mm sapphire crystal with non-reflective coating on both sides.

Caseback is open with sapphire crystal. Crown is screw-down with polished titanium Grade 5 or 5N rose gold rubber insert. Polished titanium (grade 5) screws in exclusive pattern.

Dial: Teak wood plate, rhodium-plated or golden decorative applique polished with Côte de Genève finish. Colorful sapphire indexes and Super-Luminova treated hands.

Movement: Skeletonized Cvstos CVS410, self-winding mechanical with 42-hour power reserve. 

Bracelet/Strap: Rubber, alligator leather or Alcantara with folding clasp.

Price: $49,500.