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All U-Boat watches can be can be recognized from a distance. All the creations, conceived and designed by Italo Fontana, stand out thanks to their large crown on the left-hand side of the case. The brand is proud of its “Made in Tuscany” factor. And each watch, powered by a Swiss movement, is created and assembled by the craftsmen at the Lucca headquarters.

 

The Capsoil Titanio DLC is cased in blackened titanium.

Among U-Boat’s best-known designs is its Capsoil collection, which features a movement immersed in oil to amplify the dial. A compensation bubble, which floats freely under the high-quality domed sapphire crystal, then allows the watch to adapt to external and internal temperature variations.

U-Boat’s latest Capsoil offerings include this 45mm titanium Capsoil Titanio Chronograph, made as two limited editions of 150 pieces each. The second version is cased in blackened DLC titanium.

Under the high-quality sapphire crystal a two-level black dial, with beige hands and indexes treated with SuperLuminova, visible sealing screws and a metal plate screwed at 6 o’clock to distinguish the Titanio model from all other watches of the range. The optical effect of the oil creates a more intense black and offers higher legibility.

Price: $3,100 and $3,200 (DLC version).

Detroit Watch Company expands its hot-selling M1-Woodward Sport Chrono Exhibition collection with racing livery with two new models emblazoned with number 98 on the dial.

M1-Woodward 24hr 1966 Daytona Winner Legends Chronograph Exhibition. A black DLC version is also available.

The number references the winning GT40 at 1966 Daytona driven by Ken Miles and Lloyd Ruby (red dial accents) as well as the Cobra Daytona coupe (blue/white dial) designed by the legendary American designer Peter Brock.

The new line retains the M1 Sport Chrono Exhibition collection’s steel-cased design, but now features the new 98 dial with either red accents on the Daytona Winner model or blue accents on the Daytona Coupe model. Inside the brushed and polished 42mm case you’ll find an ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph with a customized Detroit Watch decoration visible through a sapphire back.

Detroit Watch offers the duo with a choice of steel bracelet or a leather strap. The new series is also available in blackened DLC finish with a stitched Kevlar strap (see below).

As a bonus, each watch includes a framed timepiece sketch and a special framed sketch of the matching race car. The drawings are by Detroit Watch Company’s Patrick Ayoub, who founded the company with his wife Amy nine years ago.

Prices: $2,200, $2,350 (black DLC edition)

 

Specifications: Detroit Watch Company M1-Woodward 24hr 1966 Daytona Winner Legends/Coupe Chronograph Exhibition

Movement: Custom Valjoux ETA 7750 automatic chronograph, Incabloc shock-absorber,  anachron hairspring, glucydur balance, 28,800 vph, 48-hour power reserve, custom DWC decoration.

Dial: Day-date display in window, minutes and hour subdial counters, small seconds subdial, hour markings, blue or red accents, number 98 on seconds subdial.

Case: 42mm by 14.5mm polished/brushed stainless steel, exhibition caseback, water resistant to 50 meters.

Strap: Calf leather with buckle and quick release spring bars. Ballistic (Kevlar) strap with deployant clasp on DLC edition.

Prices: $2,200, $2,350 (black DLC edition).

Maurice Lacroix unveils the latest version of its popular Pontos Chronograph with the new  Pontos S Chronograph, a sporty-elegant duo with dominant chronograph sub-dials along the vertical axis and a slim, almost retro ceramic tachymeter bezel.

The new Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph.

With two new sandblasted white or dark blue dials, the new look is somewhat sportier than earlier editions but retains the collection’s touch of class.

You’ll now find a day-date indicator at 3 o’clock rather than the date at 6 o’clock on this new Pontos chronograph, while the small seconds sub-dial is still at 9 o’clock.

However, note the almost panda-like contrast with the newly styled chronograph indicators and the very sharp dial finishing here. Maurice Lacroix has purposefully endowed both with sandblasted sub-dial centers framed by snailed measuring tracks. A choice of faceted hour markers adds a retro feel to the dial as well.

Maurice Lacroix retains the Pontos collection’s existing design elements, namely its elongated pushers, double-stepped lugs, and a satin-brushed and polished 43mm steel case. 

On the back the wearer can spy the back of the ETA-based automatic ML112 chronograph caliber, decorated with a combination of Côtes de Genève, perlage and sun-brush finishes.

The watchmaker is supplying the new Pontos S Chronograph with a color-coordinated M-branded nylon strap lined with nubuck leather. The watch is also available with a three-row steel bracelet. Owners can also swap between the strap or bracelet without the need for tools.

Prices: $3,250 (silver-white or dark blue sandblasted dial with stainless steel bracelet.

$3,100 (nylon strap) or $3,380 (special package with steel bracelet & nylon strap).

Especially notable among Bulgari’s late 2022 debuts, which premiere this week during Geneva Watch Days, are two special editions created in collaboration with Japanese designers. 

One watch, made with architect Kazuyo Sejima, is a limited edition Octo Finissimo with a mirror-effect dial, while the second is a silver-toned model series made with Japanese artist Sorayama that extends the recently revived Bulgari Aluminum collection.

The Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition stems from a collaboration between Bulgari and the Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima.

Both these special editions arrive as part of an impressive, wide-ranging set of debuts for the Italo-Swiss watchmaker/jeweler.

The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic, now in a satin-brushed rose gold case and with a subtle brown-lacquered dial.

The full range of Bulgari debuts, which we’ll detail in future posts, includes several premiere pink- or rose-gold-cased models within the Octo Finissimo collection.

The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days debuts a new hand-wound manufacture movement, caliber BVL 199 SK, with an 8-day power reserve.

These include new gold watches within the Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic  ($35,800) series and the Octo Finissimo Automatic reference.

The back of the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days exposes the new caliber BVL 199 SK.

One of those debuts, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days ($37,300), marks the launch of a sharp-looking new hand-wound manufacture movement, caliber BVL 199 SK, with an 8-day power reserve.

The new Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Black.

Bulgari also added newly blackened steel or ceramic cases and bracelets to models within its Serpenti Seduttori, Serpenti Spiga and Bvlgari Bvlgari collections.

The new Bvlgari Bvlgari Black, available in 41mm and 33mm case sizes.
The new Bulgari Serpenti Spiga Ceramic boasts a 35mm black ceramic case and a rose gold bezel set with diamonds.

And finally, look for a new white gold Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon set with black spinel and diamonds ($185,000).

The new white gold Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is set with black spinel and diamonds.

Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition

Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima, who holds the 2010 Pritzker Prize among many other architecture awards, focuses the eye with a mirrored dial under a dot-pattern sapphire crystal on her version of the eight-sided Bulgari Octo Finissimo. The effect is mesmerizing, especially with the entire dial framed in a 36.6mm polished stainless steel case.

According to Bulgari, the idea bring together a “contrast between material and transparency, the visible and the invisible,” which Sejima devised in part to reflect the aesthetic codes apparent in her architectural work.

The architect’’s signature is inscribed on the sapphire crystal caseback, which opens up the  nicely decorated automatic Manufacture movement, BVL Calibre 138 – complete with (surprise!) a platinum micro-rotor. 

Bulgari will make the Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition as a 360-piece limited edition and will delivered it in a special mirrored steel box. Price: $14,100.

Bulgari’s new Aluminum Sorayama Special Edition.

Aluminum Sorayama

The shapes and textures on this Bulgari Aluminum Sorayama Special Edition are meant to recall the aesthetics of automobiles and airplanes of the 1930s and 1940s.

On the dial you’ll find pearlescent swirls, propeller-shaped hour-markers and only one numeral (2), said to be Sorayama’s lucky number. According to the artist, the swirls are inspired by the surface of Spirit of St. Louis, the airplane that Charles Lindbergh flew when he made the first nonstop solo flight across the Atlantic Ocean.

The 40mm limited edition (of 1,000) is Bulgari’s third special edition Aluminum model since 2020, when Bulgari revived the 1998 design with automatic movements and updated technical features. Here, you’ll find a rubber bezel, water resistance to 100 meters and a crown and caseback made of reinforced black titanium.

The watch’s rubber strap also includes the watch’s namesake metal, with aluminum links and pin buckle. Inside Bulgari fits Beating inside the case is a mechanical self-winding movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Price: $3,300.  

A. Lange & Söhne has created a unique 1815 Chronograph Hampton Court Edition dedicated to raise funds for The Prince’s Trust, an educational and employment charity, when it is sold during a Phillips auction on November 6.

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition”, ref. 414.047.
The unique piece will be auctioned off for a good cause after the Concours of Elegance 2022.

The one-off watch will debut officially during this year’s Concours of Elegance, to be held September 2 to September 4 at Hampton Court near London. The new watch combines several unique features previously not seen within the 1815 collection. 

The 39.5mm by 11.8mm watch offers a first-ever black dial with sandstone-hue numerals and scales within a white gold case. Also new is the tachometer scale along the edge of the dial, created to underscore the link between motor sports and time measurement. Previous 1815 Chronographs feature a pulsometer scale around the dial.

The piece is held to the wrist with a black hand-stitched alligator leather strap secured with a white gold prong buckle.

 

The Glashütte-based watchmaker has fashioned a hinged back cover for the watch, which it has hand-engraved with the logo of the Concours of Elegance, a partner with A. Lange & Söhne since 2018.

Under the cover and dial you’ll find a Lange caliber L951.5 movement, initially launched in 2010, featuring a column-wheel control, a jumping minute counter and a flyback function. The manually wound caliber has a power reserve of sixty hours.

As is always the case with this watchmaker, the movement itself is as lavishly  decorated and finished as the dial and case. The caliber’s eye-catching, multi-level architecture is fully visible through the sapphire back and exhibits the chronograph’s switching processes. Notable, as ever, is the Lange hand-engraved balance cock. Click here for more details about the watch, the charity and the auction.