Bulgari artisans illustrate an automatic movement on the dial of the new Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch, a playful limited edition to be offered in 40mm by 6.4mm steel and rose gold case options.

The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch, steel edition.

Inspired by the Italian “schizzo”: sketch, the lacquered dial on the new watch depicts the look of the unusually thin automatic movement (BVL 138 caliber) as seen from the back, complete with an image of the watch’s micro-rotor, escapement, bridges, rubies, and even finishing details like Côtes de Genève and circular graining.

As if sketched in pencil by Bulgari’s master designer and creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the dial image features hand-drawn lines, arrows, descriptions and fonts that might appear in a technical brief for the thin movement and its components.

(The new watch is the first entry into a Sketch collection. Bulgari is also launching a Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Sketch, a 43mm steel watch with an even more complex dial image that mimics the back of the Bulgari BVL 318 caliber, a GMT chronograph movement.

We’ll show you pictures of that watch as soon as they are available. Above is an image of the Chronograph GMT Sketch dial.) 

On the steel Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch, the dial offers shades of grey on an off-white background and appears a bit more monochromatic when compared to the gold model. Polished and satin finishes on the case and bracelet, along with the Finissimo’s characteristic sunburst-brushed bezel, offer a metallic edge to the design.

In 18-karat 5N rose gold, the Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch also features a polished and satin-finished case and bracelet, but with a luxurious touch. Here, the richly colored dial is traversed by grey hands to enhance its subtlety.

Bulgari is offering the Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch series as two limited editions, with 280 pieces in steel and seventy in rose gold. On each clear sapphire caseback, which offers a view of the dial image source, the watchmaker has etched “EDIZIONE LIMITATA” and “1884 – 2024” to commemorate Bulgari’s 140th anniversary.

Prices: 17,800 euro (steel) and 51,000 euro. U.S. pricing is pending. 


At the end of the year it’s time to note our favorite 2023 debut watches. We continue our look at a few of our favorite timekeepers of the year. 



Chronoswiss: Opus 

Chronoswiss is now offering a contemporary take on the classic Opus design, casing two variations in grade-5 titanium. The same levers, gears and cams remain as visible as ever here, with Chronoswiss adding a CVD-coating to the watch’s caliber C.741S, an ETA Valjoux-based integrated chronograph movement. 

With galvanic black skeletonized bridges, the movement retains its mesmerizing allure to enthusiasts while adding a stealthy modern twist. Look for two color options, green and blue, each of which frame and complement the movement’s web of blackened and CVD-coated gears and levers. Price: $14,500. 


Bulgari: Octo Roma Chronograph 

In year filled with superb chronograph debuts, this one from Bulgari was among the finest. It is the first chronograph for the eight-sided Octo Roma and introduces a new Bulgari movement, Caliber BVL 399, visible through the watch’s clear sapphire back. Two Octo Roma Chronograph models are included in the debut, one with a black dial and one in blue. Both feature an eye-catching Clous de Paris, or hobnail, pattern that appears as small pyramids across the dial, here broken only by the three sunburst-pattern chronograph subdials. Price: $9,150.


Colorado Watch: The Field Watch

At 40mm with 20mm between the lugs, the 316L stainless-steel Field Watch will comfortably fit on almost anyone’s wrist. It’s also slimmer than you might expect for an automatic watch at just 10.5mm due to the fact that the threaded case-back is recessed within the back and shaves off a couple of mms in height – A clever engineering solution for sure. 

In the steel-case version, Colorado Watch decided to leave the subtle machining marks as a unique hallmark that adds an industrial effect while emphasizing that these cases were in-fact made on-site. 

Inside the case beats an Americhron 7020 automatic-winding movement built by FTS USA in Arizona. Shock resistant, accurate, and beating at a frequency of 28,880 BPH, the 7A20 movements have a power reserve of around 40 hours and were designed by a team of watchmakers, including FTS’ own Chief Technical Officer. Retail price is $995.


Accutron: DNA Casino Edition 

Accutron added four new colors to its electrostatic-movement-powered DNA timepiece collection to create the new Accutron DNA Casino series. This sportier version of the original Accutron Spaceview series arrives in bright-hues, including green, blue, orange and red, all meant to echo the Las Vegas neon skyline. 

Like the initial Accutron DNA models, these debuts feature 45.1mm steel cases in a grey finish with silver-grey accent on the outer hour/minute ring and silver-tone hands. For each, a colorful open-work dial and crown match its brightly colored integrated rubber strap, which is set with a solid double-press deployant closure. Price: $3,500. 


Wilbur: LEO

The Wilbur LEO may be round and sit on the wrist like a traditional watch, but its sculptural, multi-part titanium case does not enclose traditional hour, minute and seconds hands. The U.S.-built LEO instead displays the time in an unusual manner on a dial that looks like a satellite tumbling its way around Earths orbit. At the center of this 48.5mm by 46mm titanium puzzle the LEO displays the hour prominently and digitally. 

The hour digit that appears in the LEO’s central aperture is actually a mash-up of two otherwise indecipherable symbols that meet once per hour. One clear sapphire disks and another brushed-black sapphire disk rotate twice a day on either side of the hour display. When they meet, those ‘alien’ symbols form the correct hour digit at the dial’s center. Price: $32,500. 


Timex: GG S2

This eponymous release, named after Timex Creative Director designer Giorgio Galli, is called the GG(Giorgio Galli) S2, and earlier this year its release took Timex into both a new price point and into Swiss watch world, thanks to its Sellita automatic movement. The black dial with the notched metal ring is subtly elegant. Note the attention to detail on the multi-faceted hour and minute hands. 

Galli also made the right choice to eschew the date function on this watch. No-doubt the purity of this design would have been deflated by any distractions on this austere dial. 

From the back youll note that rather than a threaded case-back Galli opted for a back held in place with six-screws. The GGS2 is water resistant to 50 meters, which is more than sufficient for a dress watch of this type. There is a lot of watch for the money embedded in this design. The Swiss-made watch houses a Sellita SW 200 automatic winding mechanical movement, combines injection molded steel and titanium into the perfectly proportioned 38mm case, and features flat sapphire crystals front and back. Add to that a solid steel deployant buckle and a chemical resistant nitrile rubber strap and you end up with a lot of watch for $975. 


TAG Heuer: Carrera Skipper 

TAG Heuer revived its Carrera Skipper earlier this year, four decades after the colorful regatta countdown timer disappeared from the watchmaker’s line-up. 

Returning as a 39mm steel watch, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper retains its brightly colored dress, sporting a circular-brushed blue primary dial with sub-dials in contrasting teal, green and orange. The new model also features the Carrera’s new bezel-free ‘glassbox’ design with a broader sapphire crystal and curved flange dial, a combination that extends the viewing angle for the dial. A terrific edition to the retro-themed offerings of this Swiss watchmaker. Price: $6,750. 

At the end of the year, it’s time to note our favorite 2023 debut watches. Starting today and through the end of the week, we’ll re-acquaint you with a few of our favorite timekeepers of the year. 

Starting today, we list our favorite watches in no particular order and from all price ranges.


Bulgari: Aluminum Chronograph

Now measuring a slightly larger 41mm in diameter, Bulgari’s Aluminum Chronograph (which won the GPHG Iconic Watch Prize in 2020) is now available in a version sporting an all-black dial, a black rubber bezel and a black rubber and aluminum bracelet. Price: $4,640.



Porsche Design: Chronograph 1 – Rennsport Reunion 7 Edition

As an enhanced edition of the famed Porsche Design Chronograph 1 from 1972, this watch retains the original’s pioneering black livery. But instead of the original’s PVD steel case, the new models are forged using a more scratch-resistant titanium carbide case. But the revived watch still enthralls with same matte black dial and 41mm case size as the original. 

For this special edition, Porsche Design engraves a ‘7’ on the strap to celebrate the seventh Porsche Rennsport Reunion. Turn the watch over to see more commemorative markings, including a platinum-colored winding rotor in the form of the RS Spyder wheel rim with a colorful Porsche Crest (used exclusively for this edition). The rotor winds the superb COSC-certified Porsche Design caliber WERK 01.140. Price: $12,500 (limited to seventy-five pieces in celebration of 75th anniversary of Porsche.) 



Oris: AquisPro 4000m 

Not only is this debut the most water-resistant diver’s watch we’ve seen from this independent Swiss manufacturer, but its also the sportiest Oris watch to include Oris Calibre 400, a superior automatic mechanical movement that boasts the aforementioned five-day power reserve, plus strong anti-magnetism and chronometric accuracy.  At 49.5mm in diameter, the watch is a wristful, but given its 4,000-meter water resistance rating, thin is out of the question. The watch’s titanium case frames an easy-to-read blue gradient dial with a seaworthy wave pattern. Oris fits a blue ceramic insert with the requisite minutes scale into the unidirectional bezel and caps off the case with a blue rubber strap. Price: $6,200.




Bulova: Oceanographer GMT

This nicely retro-styled model retains the look of the existing Bulova Oceanographer ‘Devil Diver’ models, but with a new GMT hand to account for a second time zone. Look for three models in the new collection. One combines brown and black tones with an IP-plated rose gold tone steel case and bracelet. 

A second steel-cased edition features a familiar red and blue GMT design often built into dive watches as well as a matching steel bracelet. The third Bulova Oceanographer GMT model (above) boasts a more monochrome look with a gunmetal IP-plated case and bezel set with a full luminous white dial. Prices: $1,295 (luminous dial and rubber strap) and $1,395 (steel bracelet).



Hublot: Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin

Hublot combined two of our favorite things (coffee and watches) into one green-hued watch when the watchmaker teamed with Nespresso to create an environmentally friendly Big Bang watch made using recycled Nespresso capsules and coffee grounds.

The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is a 42mm limited edition watch with a case, crown, bezel, and pushers made from recycled aluminum. The watch’s caseback and movement container are both made from recycled titanium. In a world first, Hublot and Nespresso have transformed used coffee grounds into watch straps. Price: $24,100.



Grand Seiko: GMT Series

Grand Seiko continues to commemorate the quarter-century anniversary of its excellent Caliber 9S mechanical movement series with a new release of two GMT watches —one sporty model and one dressy edition—each powered by a specific edition of the caliber. 

Both watches feature dials that echo the skies over Mt. Iwate, in the Iwate Prefecture in Japan, where Grand Seiko hand-assembles its watches. The sportier edition (the Sport Collection GMT Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGJ275, ) features a first for  Grand Seiko: a clear caseback on a mechanical watch with water resistance of 200 meters. 

On the front, you’ll see a sapphire blue and white rotating bezel marked to indicate three time zones. Grand Seiko fits its Hi-Beat GMT Caliber 9S86 to power the watch, providing a frequency of 36,000 vph and very stable  precision. The 2,000-piece limited edition is priced at $7,600. 

We’ll post more 2023 favorites tomorrow and through the end of this week. 

We continue to highlight a few of our favorite watches from among the more than sixty watchmakers that have created timepieces for the Only Watch charity auction, which commences Sunday, November 5, in Geneva. Christie’s will auction these incredible one-of-a-kind watches to raise funds that benefit research in the battle against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.

While you may have seen a few of the watches set for auction earlier this year when Only Watch announced them, we thought you’d enjoy seeing many of these impressive designs again just ahead of the event.

The watches are currently touring the globe. After concluding their U.S. visit at Christie’s in New York on September 17, the tour will visit Monaco next, followed by stops in Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Dubai and back in Geneva. See the Only Watch website for tour dates and details.

In this post we highlight Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Only Watch (above), a unique version of its groundbreaking ultra-thin tourbillon watch created using Italian green marble and given 110 facets.

The green marble, named Verde di Alpi, comes from the Aosta Valley, the natural passage linking Switzerland and Italy through the Alps. Green is offset with white veins, which Bulgari symbolizes as serpentines of alpine forests and snowy peaks.

The watch’s 40mm black DLC titanium polished case and bracelet is covered with the green marble in a layer of 0.4mm – 0.5mm.

The dial also features a thin marble wafer (0.6-mm). Similarly, Bulgari set the bracelet’s front and side links with a sliver of marble, leaving only the interior surface in black DLC titanium. Inside is Bulgari’s ultra-thin BVL 268 hand-wound manufacture ultra-thin mechanical movement with flying tourbillon. The full case measures only 1.95 mm thick.

Bulgari notes that the purchaser of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Only Watch will be offered one night in Bulgari’s newest hotel in Roma as well as lunch or dinner with one person from Bulgari Horlogerie Top management and the visit of the Villa Albani Torlonia to see a collection of marble sculptures.

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – CHF 250,000.

Bulgari adds three new models to its sporty Aluminum series. 

The popular Bulgari Aluminum collection was an instant hit when it debuted in 1998. Made of rubber and aluminum, a combination not seen among higher-end Swiss watches previously, the watch was casually sporty and worn by men and women. Bulgari relaunched the collection in 2020, adding automatic movements and updated materials.

The newest additions to the collection include a newly darkened chronograph (with a new caliber), a blue-dialed time and date model and a sporty tennis-themed edition with a left-side crown.

The new Bulgari Aluminum Chronograph, with black dial.

Aluminum Chronograph

Now measuring a slightly larger 41mm in diameter, Bulgari’s Aluminum Chronograph (which won the GPHG Iconic Watch Prize in 2020) is now available in a version sporting an all-black dial, a black rubber bezel and a black rubber and aluminum bracelet.

Powered by a new automatic Caliber B381 (built from an automatic Sellita base with a Dubois-Depraz module), the new watch continues to utilize the aerospace-grade 6028 aluminum alloy and FKM rubber Bulgari incorporated into the impressive redesigned version of 2020, but now also includes a crown, caseback and both chronograph pushers made using black DLC-coated titanium.

Bulgari’s Aluminum Chronograph, off-white dial Panda edition, launches in September

Bulgari also adds the new automatic chronograph movement to the familiar off-white dial Aluminum Chronograph.

While the black-dialed model will be available in June, the newest off-white-dialed ‘Panda’ edition will arrive in September. 

Price: $4,640.

Capri Edition 

Bulgari adds a limited series to the Aluminum collection meant to celebrate the Italian island of Capri. Two models offer a dial colored in gradient Tyrrhenian blue, a shade reminiscent of Capri’s beachside sea and sky.

This new limited series (of 1,000 watches each) includes a Solotempo model displaying time and date and a chronograph version.

Each watch frames its dial with a blue rubber bezel that matches the rubber strap with aluminum links and aluminum pin buckle.

Bulgari fits the new Aluminum Capri Chronograph with its ETA-based automatic chronograph Caliber B130. The Capri Solotempo model is powered an ETA-based caliber B77 mechanical automatic movement, which also features a date display.

To add novelty, Bulgari has engraved the caseback with the Faraglioni, the three rock formations well known to travelers to the Italian island. 

Prices: $3,350 (time and date) and $4,800 (chronograph). 

The new Bulgari Aluminum Match Point Edition.

Match Point Edition 

This surprising and sporty aluminum model is meant to not only look a bit like a tennis ball, but also to be worn on the court.

Its unusual left-side crown keeps the winder away from the wearer’s flexing wrist during play, and with a smaller (40mm) lightweight aluminum case and an (included) extra Velcro strap (above), more than a few Bulgari Aluminum Match Point Edition watches just might see some net action.

Bulgari accents the watch’s white dial with green luminescent hands and indexes and adds tennis-ball-yellow luminescent seconds hand, markers and dots. Even the packaging of this 800-piece limited edition evokes the look of a tennis ball.

On the caseback Bulgari has engraved — you guessed it — a tennis ball. Inside Bulgari fits its ETA-based automatic B77 caliber with a comfortable 42-hour power reserve. 

Price: $3,350, available in July.