We’ve seen open-worked designs among Hermès watch collections in the past, most notably with the recent, very sexy smoked-dial Arceau Squelette. But until this month, this famed luxury house hadn’t offered a skeletonized version of either its superb in-house movements, namely Caliber H1837 or Caliber H1950, each made with its partner Vaucher.
The new Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune.
That omission changes with the recent announcement of the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, Hermès’ first skeleton timepiece with a manufacture movement. Hermès has created Caliber H1953 from its thin H1950, the movement underneath the highly successful Slim d’Hermès collection first debuted in 2015.
Hermès cleverly mixes its metals with this release, combining a bead-blasted 39.5mm titanium case with a platinum bezel and a white gold crown. The mixture allows light to dance across the airy dial and bezel, aided by alternating matte and glossy finishes.
Equally interesting is the double moonphase display at the 6 o’clock position. As the sunray-patterned linked orbs rotate, they expose two moon images, marking the satellite’s position in both hemispheres. Very cool, and superbly executed. Price: $20,550.
Case: 39.5 mm bead-blasted grade-5 titanium middle and back, bezel in platinum with white gold crown and pusher. Anti-glare sapphire crystal and caseback.
Dial: Skeletonized, black gold sunburst flange and grey-transferred minutes track, blue PVD-coated hands. Hours, minutes, double moon-phase at 6 o’clock
Bulova will make 5,000 50th Anniversary Lunar Pilot watches.
Bulova has a long history with NASA and has been involved in multiple space missions. The watchmaker specifically celebrates Apollo 15 because on August 2, 1971, Apollo 15’s mission commander David Scott made lunar history while wearing a Bulova chronograph. You may recall that the original watch sold for nearly $1.6 million at auction in 2015.
The Bulova Chronograph Worn by David Scott on the moon sold for nearly $1.6 million at auction in 2015.
Bulova notes that its partnership with the U.S. space mission ran from the mid-1950s until the 1970s. To learn more about Bulova’s links to U.S. space exploration, visit the digital Bulova Museum.
New case
Bulova’s celebratory release replicates the style and dial layout of Scott’s watch from Apollo 15, with technical updates. The new model is cased in a new and larger 45mm titanium case, and includes new gold-tone accents and pushers.
Inside, Bulova places proprietary high frequency, high precision quartz movement, which boasts a frequency of 262 kHz, eight times the frequency of traditional quartz watches. This is the movement, with its apparently ‘sweeping’ seconds hand, that Bulova inserts into its Precisionist collection, which Bulova debuted in 2010.
The watch’s retro-styled dial includes the original Bulova logo and dial layout with a sapphire crystal. A sharp-looking grey leather NATO strap holds it to the wearer’s wrist, and the watch is water resistant to fifty meters. On the screw-down case back you’ll find an engraved image depicting a moon walk and the watch’s limited edition number. Bulova will make 5,000 50th Anniversary Lunar Pilot watches and will package each with a storybook and commemorative NASA coin. Price: $995.
In recent months my inbox has been a repository of reminders about classic American watch design. And while plenty of digital missives arrive from the encouragingly high number of youthful watch designers active across the United States these days, I’ve been especially impressed by the retro-design regimen currently underway at Accutron.
Accutron’s Legacy collection transports us back decades with its studied re-introduction of dials and cases that truly met, and in many ways help define, the Swinging Sixties and the Space Age. The collection’s aerodynamic curves, electrical references and rampant asymmetry are a treat to both the eyes and the wrist. And by retaining vintage sizes Accutron enhances the nostalgia, setting the imaginative dials within their proper proportions.
The newest version of the Accutron Date and Day Q.
A stylish reminder of Accutron style from this era can be found in the Accutron Legacy Date and Day Q, a Legacy release that echoes the original 1971 streamlined ‘flying saucer’ 34.5mm oval case design and 4 o’clock crown.
Updated Bulova Classics
Bulova also understands the value its design archives. The Bulova Oceanographer ‘Devil Diver’, its Computron and Bulova’s array of military watches are prime examples.
Just recently Bulova notes that it is expanding its array of Bulova Classic designs with new versions of the 1948 Sutton and the 1960s Aerojet.
The newest Bulova Sutton reprises a 1940s design but with a contemporary dial aperture and case size.
Both these re-releases are automatic models powered by Miyota movements. The new Sutton automatic ($395) recalls Bulova’s President watch, circa 1948, though the new model offers an updated 33mm by 49mm case size and a contemporary dial aperture to expose the movement. Bulova is offering the watch with a white dial on a brown alligator grain leather strap or with a black dial on a black alligator grain leather strap.
My favorite among the recent debuts is the new Aerojet, reprising a Bulova design from the 1960s. Bulova unveils two new 41mm steel-cased versions featuring the Aerojet’s signature cross hair dial with a bi-color Day/Night indicator and vintage Aerojet logo.
The new Bulova Classic Aerojet reprises a 1960s design.
These come with colorful sunray blue or brown dials with a degrade effect. The blue model is available on a black distressed leather strap for $450 and the brown on a multilink bracelet for $495.
Roland Stampfli founded a watch brand in 2010 called AOS Watches to honor his father’s memory. AOS is located in the picturesque Swiss town of Cressier in the district of Neuchâtel, where Stampfli has been handcrafting exquisite watches in small batches for the last decade.
The new Black Storm Spirit 1916 from AOS Watches.
The AOS Classic Day and Night
Probably his pièce de résistance is a timepiece called the Wheels of Time. This impressive watch has a 68mm x 26.8mm aluminum case weighing just 68 grams and is powered by a bespoke cylindrical movement. Due to popular demand and restricted numbers, this model sold out very quickly. I’ve never seen one for resale on marketplaces like eBay and Chrono24.
The AOS Wheels of Time
More recently, AOS unveiled a new series of watches called The Cat Edition. If like me you love Art Nouveau designs, you’re in for a real treat.
When Stampfli first sent me the press release for The Cat Edition I was pretty blown away. Within the range, there will only be four pieces, each with a completely different aesthetic. Clients have a choice of colors and also the option of an extravagant diamond-encrusted version.
My particular favorite is the model with a 47mm purple anodized aluminum case. The sublime hue really complements the vibrant tones of the distinctive screen-printed dial. This feature portrays a tattoo style illustration of a cat, which is unlike anything I’ve seen before.
When I spoke to Stampfli about this matter, he said the inspiration came from pastel art nouveau designs and cat tattoos. Other features include a complex bezel with twelve torque screws and a small date window located at 6 o’clock.
Beneath the beautiful façade this piece is a customized Swiss-made ETA mechanical self-winding Caliber 2892-2. This mechanism has a bespoke multi-colored rotor, which is visibly showcased via the sapphire crystal exhibition case back. Functionally The Cat Edition features hours, minutes, seconds and a date indication. The watch also has a power reserve of forty-two hours.
In my opinion The Cat Edition is a competitively priced collection. You get a true Swiss made watch that is highly exclusive and exceptionally well designed. If you’re interested, Stampfli reports he has only a few Cat Edition models available. Prices start at $3,800.
Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.
With Silberstein you need to throw everything you think you know about watches out the window. Alain Silberstein’s creations are revolutionary. More than mere watches, they push the boundaries and question the very laws of ergonomics and design.
Famed watch designer Alain Silberstein.
Perhaps the most famous Silberstein was the Krono, a chronograph that had a conventional dial layout from a positioning point of view with a Valjoux 7750 or Lemania 5100 movement inside, but with playful hands and dials that stretched design boundaries with geometrical shapes and bold primary colors.
The Silberstein Rondo Smileday, a highlight of my collection. The smile represents Friday, the first of three consecutive smile faces.
I just had to have one of his creations and purchased my Rondo Smileday (#243 out of a 500-piece production) directly from Alain Silberstein headquarters in France.
Even now it remains my most prized work of art/timekeeping/conversation piece on the wrist.
Like any watch, it also makes a statement about the person who wears it and is a real attention-getter. Just the other night while out with friends, one of the busmen came up to our table to compliment my Rondo Smileday and to take a closer look.
The rearview of the Rondo Smileday.
Each day of the week on the Smileday is represented by a specific face and emotion (the picture attached shows Friday, the first of three consecutive smile faces (Saturday and Sunday are Big Red Smiles). Monday not happy, Tuesday still not happy, Wednesday undecided, Thursday, we are almost there.
The blue, red and yellow primary colors, red triangle crown make this a watch like no other. As playful as a Swatch but with all the inherent qualities of a $3,500 fine timepiece, my Rondo is still keeping great time. It remains one of the most reliable timekeepers in my collection.
The Triptych
While Alain Silberstein – the brand – is no longer active, Silberstein the man continues to produce occasional collaborations with horological partners such as MB&F and Philippe Lebru.
The Louis Erard-Alain Silberstein Triptych.
Fast-forward to 2020 when I discovered that Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein joined forces to create Triptych – a set of three associated watches intended to be appreciated together.
Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein together created La Semaine, Le Régulateur II, and Le Chrono Monopoussoir, produced in runs of 178 pieces each, with seventy-eight of each reserved for a three-watch collector’s set ($12,395). This left 100 examples of each watch available for individual purchases. Prices started at $3,900. Each watch is water resistant to 100 meters and comes secured on a nylon strap.
La Semaine, from the Triptych.
All 178 pieces sold within three days in early June 2021. The watches are not numbered, instead on the back of each case is engraved “1 of 178”.
My opportunity
While I missed out on the chance to buy one immediately, I was able to place my name on a waiting list at louiserard.com in case a watch became available (due to cancellation or return). I wondered at the odds and how many people might be on that list.
Lo and behold, in rather short order, after having my thrown my hat into the ring, I was informed by email that my lucky day had arrived.
Le Régulateur II, from the Triptych.
Was I going to be the one who would secure a Louis Erard-Alain Silberstein Triptych watch? Would I be the first to respond? Why yes I would!
The Monopusher
When my adventure began, I originally had my eye on the La Semaine, but in retrospect, I am very pleased to be receiving the Le Chrono Monopoussoir.
Le Chrono Monopoussoir, which will soon find a home on my wrist.
A return to the historic Krono, but with a singular twist: the chronograph is a monopusher with only a single counter. It’s a clean and concise expression of a stopwatch that perfectly complements the Silberstein style.
With just one push the chronograph hand is activated, another push pauses it, and a third push resets the chronograph to zero. Simple and elegant. It’s impossible to mix up the order in which to push the multiple buttons endemic to traditional chronographs.
Le Chrono Monopoussoir features centrally mounted hour, minute and chronograph seconds hands with a 30-minute chronograph counter at the 12 o’clock position. Silberstein also uses the Triptych to debut a new hour hand design, a red circle with a triangle pointer.
The watch’s titanium case is 40mm-wide with a lug-to-lug height of 47mm, and at 13.8mm-thick, it is the most substantial of the three. Louis Erard went for such an unmistakable case here, as it stylishly enhances Silberstein’s distinctiveness while also pulling off a cool sports watch that is like nothing else out there.
Some of the Triptych watches are already being sold online for double their cost. I for one don’t believe that such a fine watch should be leveraged for pure profit, but rather held and enjoyed for the work of art it is.
My own Le Chrono Monopoussoir is now in transit from Switzerland and I anticipate its arrival soon. To say that this particular watch hunt has given me a real thrill is no lie.
When I spoke to 
