Hublot adds a square-cased collection with Square Bang Unico, a series of five chronograph watches set with the watchmaker’s HUB1280 Unico Manufacture movement. While we’ve seen barrel-shaped Spirit of Big Bang Hublot models in recent years, the new collection is Hublot’s first with four corners.
The new Hublot Square Bang Unico, here in King Gold and ceramic.
The new Square Bang Unico series features a ‘sandwich’ construction that offers the wearer the same deep, architectural profile as most Hublot watches. And, just as aligned with Big Bang designs, the new Square Bang Unico features a largely sapphire dial to offer a clear view into the Unico movement, notably its column wheel (seen at the 6 o’clock position) and the date wheel. Even the hands here echo those seen on Big Bang models.
Up close on the dial of the Hublot Square Bang Unico, here in titanium.
Other parallels to existing Big Bang models include the 42mm case size, the six (functional) screws on the bezel and the case protectors on the crown side and the left side of the case.
Hublot also extends its proven One Click strap-change system with two fixed screws to the new Square Bang collection. Hublot designed new textured pattern for the rubber strap that includes four rows (like the four sides of the case) of raised squares (like the bezel on the case).
The Hublot Square Bang Unico, in titanium and ceramic.
As noted above, Hublot will kick off the collection with five models. Three are in solid titanium, black ceramic or King Gold and the other two are cased in blended titanium or King Gold with a black ceramic bezel. One collection, the Square Bang Unico All Black, will be made as a limited edition of 250.
The Hublot Square Bang Unico All Black.
Prices: All Black (limited to 250 pieces): $26,200. Titanium Ceramic: $24,100. Titanium: $23,100. King Gold Ceramic: $39,900. King Gold: $43,100.
The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire. A limited edition of fifteen pieces in translucent purple (a composite of aluminum oxide and chrome), which Hublot says is an industry premiere. Price: $200,000.
The Hublot Fusion Orlinski Bracelet, the first bracelet for the artistic collaboration. The 83-part titanium bracelet is faceted and bezeled to match the case. Price: $15,700 in titanium with white dial (below) or black dial.
Four additional colors in the Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic collection. Look for new models (below) in Green, Indigo Blue, Beige and Sky Blue. Price: $24,100.
iW recently interviewed Delma Managing Director Andreas Leibundgut about the independent Swiss watchmaking company he oversees. With fairly new distribution in the United States, Delma has heightened its profile among enthusiasts and has introduced an impressive collection of new dive watches, notably the Blue Shark III.
In our wide-ranging interview, Leibundgut reviews Delma’s history as a Swiss watchmaker and describes the brand’s current collections and marketing philosophy.
Delma headquarters in Lengnau, Switzerland.
iW: Can you give us a quick overview of Delma’s history through to today?
Andreas Leibundgut: Delma was founded in 1924 in Lengnau, Switzerland, by the Gilomen brothers as A & A Gilomen SA with the four brands: Delma, Gil, Midland, and Thuya. In 1966 the Gilomen’s were seeking a successor as there was none within the family. They found Ulrich Wüthrich, my grandfather, who acquired the company with a partner.
Following the takeover, they renamed the company after the Delma brand and started building on its sports collection. In 1969 Delma’s first divers’ watch, the Periscope, was launched and with it started our commitment to creating great performance watches that stand the test of time.
Delma owners Andreas (left) and Fred Leibundgut.
In 1996 Fred Leibundgut, my father, joined the company and started shifting the focus of Delma back to its core, the sports timepieces, that Delma had deviated from in the 1980s and early 1990s. Since then, we have successfully rebuilt our Diver and Racing collections with some outstanding performance timepieces. Delma has weathered the stormy past two years quite well and today we are looking forward to celebrating our upcoming centennial anniversary in 2024 in a way that’s worthy of that milestone.
Inside the Delma Atelier.
What are some of the unique selling points that make Delma stand out?
As one of the few independent and family-owned Swiss watch manufacturers, established nearly a century ago, we offer exceptional products at very competitive prices for modern day adventurers.
The Delma Shell Star from 1975 (right) and from 2016
In a competitive market, how do you position Delma with regard to other existing watch brands?
Delma develops timepieces for aspirational ladies and gentlemen with a connection to the water, whether that’s below the surface with our Diver collection, above the surface with our Racing collection or on the coast with our Dress and Elegance collections.
What price range does Delma cultivate and do you see this evolving in either direction in the future?
Delma’s core segment is between $1,000 and $4,000 with our most popular divers’ watches starting at around $1,100 – $1,200. Over the past few years, we have seen a strong increase in demand for our mechanical models and as such we will continue to focus on mechanical performance timepieces that push boundaries of strength and functionality.
What is the demographic/psychographic profile of a “Delma” customer?
We target modern day adventurers with a connection to the water who seek a timepiece that reflects their spirit and/or lifestyle and can be relied upon when it’s time to perform. Our commitment to craftsmanship and functional design attracts a more mature consumer profile, primarily people between 35 and 65 who value quality and have the willingness and means to spend on a Swiss Made timepiece.
What strategies will you employ to enhance Delma’s visibility in the North American market?
We plan to continue to engage in partnerships with digital and traditional media outlets with a focus on specialist outreach. In areas where we have a partner, we will also run co-op advertising and create out of home campaigns. Increasing our retail presence and awareness in North America is a key part of our 2022 strategy.
The Delma Blue Shark III Azores.
What are the biggest challenges for a brand like Delma to capture market share and expand?
The biggest challenge is gaining access to high quality point of sale locations. We see an ongoing trend of consolidation with larger players acquiring great independents to expand their network. These players tend to focus on brands from larger houses and have less interest in smaller independent brands like us. In turn the number of quality independent jewelers and watch retailers which we feel are the best physical platform for our products have been significantly reduced.
What is your plan to balance the direct-to-consumer sales with the traditional brick and mortar sales channels?
For Delma, direct-to-consumer and brick and mortar channels are complementary. Both are needed and both channels rely upon each other to do well. We have a well running DTC sales channel and continue to expand our presence in targeted brick and mortar locations in Europe, North America and beyond.
The Delma Blue Shark III Azores, on a wetsuit.
What is the Delma Design process? Would you consider your designs to be proactive or reactive with regard to current trends?
The development of a new model starts with an idea or a new concept, which is then sketched out before we move on to technical drawings, 3D modeling and prototyping. While we have a clear strategy and direction for the brand and the products we are developing, we do consider consumer demands and trends in the design process, particularly with finishes and color choices. Most important however is that we remain true to our identity, more so now than ever before.
Delma tests every watch twice by a separate team of specialists ensuring each element is checked at least twice before it leaves its facility.
I personally recall Delma’s attempt to enter the American market in the early 1990s and even have one of your two-tone quartz watches (my very first Swiss watch) still in my collection. How has Delma changed as a company since then with regard to style, ethos and leadership?
In the late 1980s and early 1990s Delma deviated a bit from its core and produced a number of dress watches in gold, platinum, and other elaborate finishes. While they were well received at the time, we have regained focus on our foundation with invigorated commitment to sports and divers’ watches reflected in our new releases and promotional materials.
It’s hard for me to accurately judge the leadership and ethos of the early 1990s given my age, but I would argue that today, given the available tools at hand, we are much more directly involved in each market, and we are more brand focused.
In the past, distributors were met potentially twice a year, once in Basel and once during a personal visit. Now, there is a constant exchange between the people in the market and our team in Switzerland. This allows us to be much closer to all extensions of the brand including retail partners, media outlets and clients.
The Blue Shark III Azores is Delma’s ultimate divers’ watch with water resistant to 4,000 meters. Sales support the Megalodon Project in the Azores.
Will Delma embrace the growing move towards environmental stewardship, conservation, or any other philanthropic causes?
With a strong focus on divers and sports watches, we have sincere interest in preserving the oceans and the wildlife that depends on them. Hence, Delma supports a variety of organizations and programs centered around ocean conservation. Most recently, Delma, together with ocean conservationist and Delma ambassador Magnus Lundborg supported the Megalodon Project. A research endeavor to understand and protect Blue Sharks among other endangered animals that live in the waters surrounding the Azores archipelago.
In 2020, we also released a limited-edition timepiece in celebration of the 200 years since the discovery of Antarctica, which supported the Antarctic and Southern Ocean coalition in its mission to protect this great wilderness and the fascinating wildlife that relies on it. We intend to continue our philanthropic efforts and serve as stewards of global preservation.
Currently Delma has no fewer than fifteen different lines in the collection. That’s a lot for any brand and I wonder if there are any thoughts to consolidate and distill the collections to develop a tighter image of what a “Delma” watch represents?
Several years ago, the company took the decision to focus more strongly on its core, the diver, and sports watches. This has proven to be a successful path, but we are not yet where we want to be. As such you can expect that there will be new products coming in that segment with a certain clean up in other areas.
Are all collections available in North America?
Yes! We provide all our new retail partners with a recommendation for their collection selected from our complete collection based on bespoke factors and will do the same in North America as we continue to grow there.
We understand the retailer knows his clients best and are proud to be able to offer this flexibility and customizability to suit their unique demands, something that sets us as an independent, family-owned company apart from other brands and companies.
Collectors frustrated by the very limited nature of last year’s MB&F M.A.D.1 now have a chance to score a new version of the very cool, affordably priced automatic watch with lateral time display and tricked-out upside-down Miyota movement.
MB&F is releasing the new M.A.D. 1 Red under the new M.A.D. Editions label.
MB&F’s new M.A.D. 1 Red looks very similar to the original blue-tinged M.A.D.1, which was available last year only to MB&F Friends and MB&F watch owners.
Like that first watch, the new model also displays time via two highly luminous rotating cylinders around its case. Just as eye-catching is the unidirectional titanium and tungsten triple-blade rotor spinning quickly atop the watch. MB&F makes all this happen by fitting and re-engineering the watch’s Miyota movement upside-down in the steel M.A.D. 1 Red case.
In addition to the new cherry red hue on this Red edition, MB&F has thinned the bezel and added a traditional winding crown (at 12 o’clock) to the watch. The crown on last year’s blue edition featured a folding protector that doubled as a winding aid.
MB&F is making these special editions under a new brand name, M.A.D. Editions, and has long-term plans for additional models. Collectors who have previously contacted MB&F about the earlier M.A.D. Edition watch, or who already own an MB&F watch (or are MB&F Friends) are first in line to purchase the new watch.
If you’re not among those categories, there’ still a path toward obtaining your own M.A.D 1 Red: MB&F is conducting a lottery for interested buyers.
“Once we have the confirmations of the priority orders, we’ll then take all the remaining M.A.D.1 Red pieces available, and allocate them thanks to a lottery, open to everyone,” explains MB&F founder Max Busser.
“If you’re interested in participating in the lottery, which is of course totally free of charge, please go to our eShop to obtain a lottery ticket – and relax, there’s no rush, you have the next two weeks to get a ticket. After two weeks we’ll then proceed with a random draw, and we’ll let you know whether the draw has been favorable to you – in which case you will be able to place your order.”
Given the price (CHF 2,900) and the pedigree of the new M.A.D.1 Red, expect very high demand.
Deliveries of the M.A.D.1 Red commence in April and continue throughout the rest of this year. While the first deliveries will go to collectors who wrote to MB&F previously, MB&F expects to start delivering watches to the lottery winners between September and December.
H.Moser intensifies the vibrancy of its eye-catching fumé dials in this new Endeavour Center Seconds Concept Lime Green, which incorporates a new hammered texture dial—and nothing else but three hands.
The new H. Moser Endeavour Center Seconds Concept Lime Green.
In its 40mm steel case, the debut unveils a new high-end green finish that starts when H. Moser’s artisans create a pattern on a gold dial base. Three different color pigments are washed, crushed and applied to the base, which is then heated. Moser says that each of these dials must be fired twelve times to create their signature effect.
The Schaffhausen-based manufacture lets the new pattern speak for itself, and adds no logo or indices. All you see is a pure H. Moser classically elegant three-hand steel watch.
Inside the watch you’ll find H. Moser’s own HMC 200 automatic caliber, equipped with a regulating organ manufactured by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG.
Those in the know might recognize the caliber instantly because all H. Moser watches powered by the firm’s double hairspring technology are set with a purple seconds hand, which certainly stands out against this watch’s green dial. The HMC 200 here also features a large, engraved oscillating weight and guarantees a power reserve of at least three days.
Finally, H. Moser attaches the watch to the wrist with a handsome grey kudu leather strap.
Alpina has updated its aviation-themed Startimer collection with a new design featuring a new case, new bezel and new 41mm diameter size.
One of the first new mechanical models displaying the updated design, the Startimer Pilot Automatic, sports a blue or black dial, a steel case and a steel bracelet or a top-stitched calfskin leather strap.
The new Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic.
Alpina notes that the new collection more closely echoes its own early pilot watch designs, with the newest size offering a compromise between the existing 44mm and 40mm versions, both of which will remain in the collection.
The new fluted bezel is especially notable for its retro appeal and was initially designed in the early part of the last century to give pilots wearing gloves a surer grip. Likewise, the watch’s crown is fluted to enhance a gloved grip, and is screwed down to ensure water resistance to 100 meters.
In addition, Alpina has revised the Startimer’s hands, changing the earlier leaf shape to the newer cathedral design, filled with luminous material. A new fine tip enables the index markers to be read more precisely. The seconds hand has also been updated with the Alpina triangular counterweight.
Both the new hands point to smaller Arabic numerals and a railway style minutes track. The five-minute intervals are marked by a luminous marker next to the numeral on the track.
Finally, Alpina has moved the date window from its previous location at 3 o’clock to a more traditional pilot watch location at 6 o’clock.
On the back is an engraving that features an airplane about to fly over a mountain, accompanied by the vintage version of the Alpina logo.
Inside Alpina fits its Sellita-based FC-525 automatic movement.
Look for the new Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic in three variations: with a black dial on a steel bracelet (not pictured), a black dial on a black strap or a blue dial set with a brown calfskin strap.
(Note that Alpina also offers a quartz-powered Startimer Quartz Chronograph Big Date with the same design updates described above.)
