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The Watches

Introducing Enera and a Purple Skull

By Steve Huyton 

Over the last decade, I’ve dealt with many talented craftsmen worldwide. Mostly, fine watchmaking is associated with Switzerland. However, I recently connected with a gentleman named Andrey Shishov who is located in Riga, Latvia. His brand Enera is very popular on social media watch forums, and I was intrigued to discover what motivated Andrey to establish a cool micro-brand.

The Enera Marine Bronze.

Very kindly he agreed to unpack his back story, which is absolutely fascinating. 

Shishov is a certified bodyguard and shooting instructor. He is also a member of the EBSA which is an organization for security professionals. This experience inspired the conception of many of Enera’s models.

The Enera Desert Rose.

Since 2018 Enera has released six models: the Marine, Bodyguard, Pilot, Asymmetrix, Samurai and Desert Rose. All of these timepieces have oversized cases and are designed for people who like to make a bold statement.

An Enera Bodyguard model, with green dial.

Enera also offers a ten-year guarantee on all their watches. Additionally, any damage to the case (including crown and glass) incurred during the warranty period is repaired free of charge. This is a pledge unheard of in the industry and it certainly illustrates how confident Shishov is about the overall quality of his watches. 

Another notable point is each timepiece is assembled by hand in Riga from components entirely sourced in Europe. 

Custom work

When I initially spoke to Shishov, he explained his individual approach for each of his customers. 

Effectively clients can choose dial color, strap (from handmade collection) and even personalized engraving. This gave me the idea to create a particular unique watch with Enera called the ‘Purple Skull’.

The Enera Purple Skull, a custom example within the Bodyguard collection.

For this collaboration, we decided to use Enera’s Bodyguard model as it is synonymous with the brand. The initial concept of the Bodyguard is inspired by the design of armored vehicles. This is reflected in the brutish geometric angular 48mm 316L stainless steel case. 

To accentuate the industrial façade I felt a gothic purple dial with an engraved skull would be highly effective. On the case side is a bronze plate with the initials of my brand Paolo Mathai Horology in Malayalam script.

Powering the watch is an ETA Swiss automatic movement, Caliber 2824-1, with 25 jewels, which oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The caliber is visibly showcased via the sapphire crystal exhibition case back.

Functionally the Purple Skull features hours, minutes, seconds and a date indication (located at 3 o’clock). The watch also has a power reserve of 40 hours and is water resistant to 100 meters. As a perfect finale, the Purple Skull is presented on an exquisite handcrafted grey leather strap (plus an additional NATO strap) with a complimentary engraved stainless steel buckle.

Enera’s Bodyguard series is priced starting at about $1,685.  

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews.

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The Watches

Bell & Ross Launches BR-X5

Bell & Ross’s newest collection, the BR-X5, offers a more technical version of its hot BR-05 collection, emphasizing a new multi-layer case, a new custom movement and a redesigned dial.

The black-dial version of the new Bell & Ross BR-X5.

The BR-X5 retains the BR-05’s round dial within a gently rounded square case and its integrated bracelet/strap, but extends the architectural appeal of the design with eye-catching multi-level case construction. The dial also underscores the technical focus of the new collection with its prominent power reserve indicator and an extra large aviation-style date aperture.

At 41mm in diameter, one millimeter larger than its forebear, the new BR-X5 case displays a hollowed-out central layer flanked by the watch’s square bezel and its caseback, both fixed to the two steel plates that form the top and bottom of the case.

Between the caseback and dial Bell & Ross fits a customized automatic Calibre BR-CAL.323 movement made by Kenissi. The Swiss movement maker was founded to create calibers for Tudor and, since 2016, has also supplied movements to Chanel, Breitling and others.

A chronometer 

The new movement is a COSC-certified chronometer that offers an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Also notable is the movement’s rapid date correction device, which allows for a quick date adjustment. Bell & Ross highlights the new movement’s long power reserve with a large power reserve indicator on the dial.

Look for two dial options, black and ice blue, for the steel-cased BR-X5. A third model, the BR-X5 Carbon Orange, is the sportiest of the new collection with its carbon fiber case that holds its automatic movement within a DLC titanium block.

The BR-X5 Carbon Orange is a limited edition of 500.

Bell & Ross has equipped all three models with a rotor designed to recall the shape of a race car wheel rim. The rotor is visible through clear sapphire on the steel BR-X5 and through a smoky sapphire glass on the BR-05 Carbon Orange.

To emphasize the new debut’s technical reliability, Bell & Ross is supporting the entire BR-X5 collection with a five-year warranty, which exceeding the previous Bell & Ross standard warranty of two years.

Prices: $7,400 (with steel bracelet) and $6,900 (rubber strap); $11,800 (BR-05 Carbon Orange, a limited edition of 500.) 

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The Watches

Patek Philippe Launches New Chronographs and White Gold Nautilus

Patek Philippe launched three variations to its hot Nautilus (including a white gold successor to its retired Ref. 5711) and extended its collection of complicated chronographs as part of an eight-piece debut this week.

The new Ref. 5811/1G-001 Nautilus features a case and bracelet in white gold as well as a blue sunburst dial with a black gradation. Price is $69,785.

While the new Nautilus debuts garnered much of the initial attention, it’s the new set of chronographs that attract collectors of Patek Philippe’s legendary (and less commodified) complications. (Read all about the trio of new Nautilus models, including the 41mm successor to the Ref. 5711 , on the Patek Philippe site.)

The chronographs

And among those chronograph debuts, look no further than the new Ref. 5373P-001, a split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph with perpetual calendar, for some true novelty. The watch differs from its predecessor (Ref. 5372) with newly inverted displays, pushers and crown.

New Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001, a split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph with perpetual calendar, differs from its predecessor (Ref. 5372) with inverted displays, pushers and crown.

Made for specifically “for the right-hand wrists of left-handers,” according to the watchmaker, the new 38.3mm platinum-cased watch is a premiere design for the company.

Patek Philippe notes however that a 1927 one-of-a-kind watch inspired the design of the new model. Like the earlier watch, the new watch features its integrated chronograph monopusher at the 9 o’clock position with the split-seconds pusher set, unusually, at 8 o’clock.

The sporty red, black  and grey dial on the Ref. 5373P-001 is cleverly finished with a black gradation at its edge, framing snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials.

The watch’s beautifully finished caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q, still the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the manufacture, can be admired through the sapphire-crystal display back, which is interchangeable with the solid-platinum back delivered with the watch. Among the many caseback highlights is a view of the movement’s two column wheels with their two polished caps.

Finally, like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant cut diamond on its case. But here Patek Philippe flips the diamond’s location, placing it at the 12 o’clock position rather than at the 6 o’clock position. Price Upon Request. 

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5204G-001 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar.

Split Seconds, right side

Also with a split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar, the new Ref. 5204G-001, with its standard, right-side crown and two pushers,  features a 40mm white gold case and an olive-green sunburst dial. The watch complements a version released last year with a slate-grey dial and a rose-gold case. Price Upon Request. 

The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A-001 self-winding World Time flyback chronograph stands out with its sporty vintage looks.

World Timer

In a premiere steel case, the Patek Philippe’s new Ref. 5935A-001 World Time flyback chronograph (with automatic caliber CH 28-520 HU) is bound to please collectors in search of steel Patek Philippe watches as well as those who covet its world timers.

A stunning rose-gold dial appears vintage while the ‘carbon’ motif’ dial interior is decidedly contemporary. That dial center is a reference to the 2020 limited edition inaugural model Patek Philippe’s newest manufacturing facility in Geneva. Patek Philippe includes two calfskin straps (grained taupe and beige with a velvet-like nubuck finish), each secured with stainless steel fold-over clasps. Price: $63,871.

 

The Ref. 7968:300R-001 Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” chronograph in rose gold.

Luce Chronograph

Patek Philippe adds an automatic chronograph to its contemporary Aquanaut Luce collection for the first time, and then decorates the watch (Ref. 7968-300R-001) with a rainbow of sapphires and diamonds. Cased in 39.9mm rose gold, the watch’s white mother-of-pearl dial is engraved with an Aquanaut pattern as baguette multi-colored sapphires mark the hours alongside gold applied numerals. Price: $212,900. 

The new Ref. 5990-1A-011 Nautilus Travel Time chronograph is one of Patek Philippe’s rare steel watches.

Travel Time

Patek Philippe has debuted a steel-cased Travel Time model with an eye-catching blue dial with a radiant sunburst finish and a subtle black gradation. The new Ref. 5990/1A-011 Travel Time is powered by automatic caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, which combines a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (two time zones with two separate hour hands; the skeletonized hand shows home time) and an analog date synchronized with local time. Price: $68,603.

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The Watches

TAG Heuer and Nintendo Launch Two Mario Kart Formula 1 Watches

TAG Heuer teams once again with Nintendo to launch two Formula 1 X Mario Kart Limited Editions, each filled with fun references to the racing game series.

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 X Mario Kart Limited Edition Chronograph.

One model, a chronograph, is a 44-mm steel model with its Mario Kart logo clearly inscribed on its black polished ceramic tachymeter bezel. TAG Heuer has etched Mario’s M symbol on the crown while the Mario Kart logo is engraved on the screwed-down case back where, nearby, you’ll find an outline of Mario in a racecar.

The game’s hero also pops up on the chronograph’s checkered dial within the permanent seconds indicator at 9 o’clock, which is also circled in the same Mario-red hue. The same color can be also seen on the lacquered central hand, hour chronograph counter hand and 60-second or minute scale on the flange. 

For added humor, TAG Heuer replaces the date display with ongoing appearances by Mario Kart items such as Bullet Bill, the Banana and others.

Inside TAG Heuer fits its automatic Caliber 16 movement. This TAG Heuer Formula 1 X Mario Kart Limited Edition (Chronograph) is limited to 3,000 pieces.

Tourbillon Chronograph 

At the high end, TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 X Mario Kart Limited Edition Chronograph Tourbillon, limited to 250 pieces, showcases Mario’s world in more technical spaces.

TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 X Mario Kart Limited Edition Chronograph Tourbillon

A trio of Mario Kart characters rotate on the COSC-certified Calibre Heuer 02T tourbillon cage, which showcases Mario in his kart, the Spiny Shell and Bullet Bill.

Cased in 45mm titanium, the skeletonized chronograph tourbillon features a black polished ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale and the Mario Kart logo. Red lacquer colors the 2 o’clock pusher and crown while the M symbol tops the crown.

Just as notable here is the pattern of red lines that frame the dial’s cutouts. At the top of the dial, TAG Heuer adds a gearwheel designed to echo the shape of racecar tire rims.

Mario dominates the back of the watch as well. A screwed-down titanium caseback is fit with sapphire glass emblazoned with the Mario Kart logo. Through the sapphire you’ll see the movement decorated with a trio of Mario Kart characters. I particularly like the Mario-red column wheel.

TAG Heuer attaches a black calf leather strap with contrasting red stitching and lining and a custom embossed pattern to both watches. The steel or titanium folding buckle is engraved with the M symbol.

Prices: $4,300 (Chronograph) and $25,600 (tourbillon chronograph). 

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The Watches

Hublot Reprises Shepard Fairey Classic Fusion Chronograph

With its impressive roster of artists assisting its in-house designers and artisans, Hublot in 2022, within its Hublot Love Art initiative, continues to release some of the watch world’s most interesting contemporary designs.

We’ve seen ongoing collaborations with Takashi Murakami, Richard Orlinski and Maxime Plescia-Buchi, as well as a new partnership with multi-disciplinary artist Samuel Ross.

The most recent endeavor finds Hublot again teamed with Shepard Fairey, the illustrator and contemporary artist Hublot first worked with in 2018 for the Big Bang Meca-10 Shepard Fairy Limited Edition.

The new Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black Shepard Fairey.

The new model, the Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph All Black, is essentially an all-black version of the 2021 Classic Fusion Chronograph Shepard Fairey. 

A Mandala symbol and motif highlights the center of the dial. Its complex, repeating pattern is also reprised on the micro-blasted 45mm ceramic case and on the bezel.

The Mandala, which represents harmony and precious time, still exudes a sense of depth on the newly blackened dial despite its new single-hue caste. As Fairey explains, the symbol is a theme for much of his work. 

“Over the course of my watchmaking partnership with Hublot, I discovered that the Mandala – a recurring theme of my work and an ongoing source of inspiration – lives in perfect harmony and balance within a timepiece and it naturally became the center piece for my collaboration.” says Fairey. 

Backing the intricate dial Hublot fits its excellent Caliber HUB1155, a skeletonized automatic chronograph movement, with its rotor visible through a clear sapphire caseback.

Hublot attaches a classic black rubber strap to the watch, which the watchmaker offers as a limited edition of fifty-two pieces available for sale exclusively in North America. Price: $25,900. 

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