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At the end of the year, it’s time to note our favorite 2022 debut watches. Starting today, and through the end of the week, we’ll re-acquaint you with our top timekeepers of the year.

Today, we re-post entries about our favorite 2022 debuts, in no particular order.  We’ll have additional entries throughout the week.  

The TAG Heuer Autavia 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronograph.

TAG Heuer: 60th Anniversary Autavia Flyback Chronograph

TAG Heuer in early 2022 fit a Caliber Heuer 02 COSC Flyback movement into two new Autavia 60th Anniversary Flyback Chronographs.

One of the two new flyback chronographs features a ‘panda’ style silver dial framed by a polished stainless-steel case. The second Autavia flyback model features an all black dial and black DLC-coated case. As a reminder, the flyback function makes it possible to reset the chronograph hand and immediately restart a new timing event.

Prices: $6,300 (silver dial flyback chronograph), $6,950 (black dial, black case flyback chronograph) and $4,200 (GMT). 

 

Delma: Blue Shark III Black Edition

Independent Swiss watchmaker Delma continues to swim with the sharks with a new dive watch made to venture far deeper than most of its similarly priced competitors.  

The new Delma Blue Shark III Black Edition, water resistant to an incredible 4,000 meters, retains this collection’s very sporty technical features, including professional-level helium escape valve and crown protection, but now offers added protection of a scratch resistant black DLC coating on its 47mm steel case.

Built as a limited edition of 300 pieces, the new watch is hyper-visible on a diver’s wrist with large luminous hands and indexes and luminous markers along its broad bezel. 

Delma is making 300 examples of the new Blue Shark III Black Edition in each of three dial colors: black, blue or orange dial. All three versions come with an additional black genuine rubber strap and a black DLC-coated buckle with tools for interchanging the bracelets.

Price: $2,750. 

 

RGM: Fat Arrow

American watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, whose eponymous Pennsylvania-based RGM Watches pioneered independent watchmaking in the United States, teamed with renowned watch photographer and artist Atom Moore to create a terrific limited edition series of ‘Fat Arrow’ military style watches.

The series, the Equation of Time Fat Arrow, reprises a late 2021 prototype developed by Moore and Murphy’s Equation of Time division, which specializes in watches designed with input from collectors.

Moore’s original dial art piece “Fat Arrow” is based on the name given to the World War II-era watches with the larger dial arrows, which were used to signify British military equipment.Starting with Moore’s Fat Arrow dial design, Murphy devised a complementary steel-cased 36mm military style watch.

Visible through the caseback is a manual-wind Sellita SW210-1 finished with Geneva stripes and radially brushed gears. Price: $2,995 (limited edition of 99).

 

Franck Muller: USA Limited Edition Bill Auberlen Vanguard Racing

The seconds indicator on the new Franck Muller USA limited edition Vanguard Racing Skeleton Bill Auberlen starts with double zero at the bottom of the dial, not at the top. This layout, while rare on a watch dial, allows seconds to be read from both ends of the seconds hand and echoes the dashboard Auberlen would see while piloting his racecar.

The dial layout is just one of many racer-friendly details that Franck Muller built into the sporty automatic watch. The watch is the latest Franck Muller model built with Auberlen’s direct. One of America’s most successful racecar drivers, Auberlen has won sixty-three races.   

Another example can be found in Franck Muller’s choice of case materials for the tonneau-shaped 44m by 53.7mm Vanguard watch. One version of the watch is built with carbon, the same ultra-light, high-performance material racecar makers utilize. Another version features an unusual blue-tinged high-tech composite called Technologie Bleu, which the watchmaker says is created by mixing ‘high purity metals and other exotic elements.’

Franck Muller offers its Vanguard Racing Skeleton Bill Auberlen in three case materials:  rose gold ($34,000), carbon ($27,400) and Macro molecular Technologie Bleu ($26,200). 

 

Frederique Constant: Classics Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant celebrated the tenth anniversary of its Classics Worldtimer Manufacture with a pair of attractive blue-and-grey-dialed limited edition references.  

In keeping with this Geneva brand’s ‘affordable luxury’ tenet, the Classics Worldtimer has been among the highest-value Swiss-made examples of it type, particularly as it’s supplied with an in-house worldtimer caliber (visible through the sapphire caseback).

We’ve seen Frederique Constant release the Classics Worldtimer Manufacture in a variety of hues and metals during the past decade. This new offering, in a choice of a rose gold or steel case, combines the most classic combination that represents the earth’s blue oceans surrounded by white clouds.

The worldtimer dial allows the time to be read in twenty-four time zones with clear daytime or nighttime indication. Frederique Constant applies luminescent indexes (and on the hands in the steel model) to the fairly traditional globe décor world time display. This all frames a handsome sunray guilloché date hand display at the 6 o’clock position. 

Prices: $4,695 (steel) and $21,995 (pink gold). 

 

G-Shock: GMWB5000RD-4

 Casio in 2022 added an eye-catching, all-new watch to the G-SHOCK Full Metal Series, the brand’s premium line. 

This GMWB5000RD-4 carries on the look and feel of the original G-Shock DW-5000C with its classic square case shape and digital display. To that, G-Shock adds a hard-to-miss red stainless-steel case with screw-on back. And while it looks fashionable, the bracelet is as tough as the case, according to G-Shock, as it is made of solid stainless steel, here finished with a red IP color and diamond-like carbon finish that matches the case.

G-Shock lets the wearer rest assured that the Full Metal watch’s fashionable good looks are accompanied with G-Shock technical features, including Bluetooth Connectivity via the G-Shock Connected app, and Multi-Band 6 Atomic Timekeeping for self-adjusting hour and date display virtually anywhere on earth.

Additional technical specifications include: shock resistance, 200-meters of water resistance, Super Illuminator LED light, world time in 39 cities, stopwatch, daily alarms, countdown timer, 12/24 Hr. formats and a full automatic calendar.

Price: $600.

Tutima Glashütte adds two new two watches to its sporty M2 Seven Seas S collection, each with a smaller case than existing 44mm models and each with a colorful dégradé dial.

Tutima offers the new 40mm M2 Seven Seas S MariTimer with a stainless steel case and bracelet.

The new M2 Seven Seas S MariTimer series, with its mid-sized 40mm case and 500-meter water-resistance rating, offers a somewhat dressier option to what is one of this brand’s bedrock collections.

The Tutima M2 Seven Seas S MariTimer, with a two-component strap made of rubber and leather with color-coordinated stitching.

The strong case construction, even in its new 40mm size, offers a a screwed back and threaded crown with protective flanks that make it useful for snorkeling and diving. Its partially polished stainless steel bezel (with luminescent marker at 12) can only be rotated counterclockwise around a solid 2.5-mm-thick sapphire crystal.

Tutima’s M2 Seven Seas S MariTimer also offers integrated lugs for a snug fit. And as is true throughout the series, the new watch assures its wearer of precise timing. Inside you’ll find an ETA-based automatic Caliber 330 with a 38-hour power reserve.

Within the pair on offer, there is a slight variation in bracelets. While the M2 Seven Seas S MariTimer in blue comes with a stainless steel bracelet, the red-dialed model is available with a stainless steel bracelet or a two-component strap. The red edition’s strap is made of impregnated leather with skin-friendly rubber on the underside. Red stitching along the wristband’s sides matches the dial’s color and adds a nice accent.

Prices: $2,350 (on bracelet) and $1,980 (on a strap).

H. Moser & Cie. steps firmly into the metaverse with a project that links both physical and virtual dimensions.

The new H. Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, with a micro-blasted 40mm steel case with a 3D-printed titanium crown and ‘pixelated’ bezel.

The new Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, is a micro-blasted 40mm steel watch with a 3D-printed titanium crown, an ultra-dark Vantablack dial and a bezel that seems pixelated.  

The watch’s virtual appearance is underscored by multiple digital assets, including a unique QR code engraved on its sapphire crystal that allows the owner to authenticate watch ownership.

The code will also allow priority to purchase certain future limited editions, blockchain authentication, membership of the Moser community and a virtual Swiss chalet, plus access to various H. Moser launch events.

The watch is also the first piece in a triptych, and its owner will have access to the next two pieces.

H. Moser is offering the time-only Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis model as a limited edition of fifty pieces. Price: CHF 27,000.

Specifications: H. Moser Endeavour Center Seconds Genesis

(Reference 1200-1238)

Case: 40mm by 11.3mm micro-blasted steel, 3D-printed titanium crown and bezel with pixelated look, sapphire crystal with engraved QR code, see-through case-back. 

Dial: Vantablack with black leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. Hours, minutes and central seconds.

Movement: H.Moser HMC 200 automatic caliber, frequency: 21,600 Vib/h, automatic bi-directional pawl winding system, solid 18-karat gold oscillating weight engraved with the H. Moser hallmark, 3-day power reserve, original Straumann hairspring. 

Strap: Hand-stitched grey kudu leather, micro-blasted steel pin buckle.

Price: CHF 27,000.

California-based Wilbur expands its EXP collection with the EXP C-1, a new model encased in black ceramic and a customized gold alloy.

The new watch is the first edition of the eight-sided, nine-part EXP case Wilbur has built using a precious metal. The EXP-C1 joins two existing EXP offerings, one with a steel case and another with a ceramic/steel case.

The new gold model adds an option to collectors in search of a more luxurious version of the Wilbur EXP, a 41.5mm open-worked, three-hand watch with date.

“We fell in love with a set of champagne gold wheels on a Porsche GT2 and set out to replicate the color,” explains Wilbur founder Jason Wilbur. “We wanted a modern and futuristic gold not a traditional gold, so we developed our own.”

He notes that the contrast between the matte black ceramic case-core and the TechGold steel lugs and bezel makes for a “super modern and unique version of a gold watch.”

The new Wilbur EXP C-1.

The EXP fits into the Wilbur collection between the entry model called Launch Edition and the new, highly customized LEO. Like the other Wilbur designs, the EXP offers a futuristic three-dimensional architectural design that exposes its automatic movement, which appears to be floating within its skeletal case. The watch’s chapter ring seems to float above a semi-transparent dial that clears the view to the automatic movement. 

Like all EXP models, the C1 version is built in the United States using a Sellita automatic movement at its base, modified and regulated in-house by Wilbur. The watchmaker also makes a selection of colorful silicone straps for the EXP-C1, all of which can be quickly changed by the wearer.

Price: $7,125. 

Wilbur EXP silicone strap options.

Specifications: Wilbur EXP-C1

Case:  41.50mm by 41.50mm by 14.70mm ceramic & Tech Gold DLC (not including lugs & crown), 9-Part Modular Exo-Chassis, sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating, 50 meters water resistance, hand finished, exhibition back.

Movement: Wilbur-modified, in-house regulated Sellita automatic with 38-hours of power reserve. 

Dial: Suspended, 3-D with hand-finished details, semi-transparent dial, floating chapter ring, time and date, EXP rotor. 

Straps: Standard straps or silicone quick-change in multiple colors, ballistic nylon and cordura options available, bolt-on buckle.

Reservoir darkens its Sonomaster to create the Sonomaster Chronograph Black Thunder, a rock-n-roll-inspired black PVD edition of the Paris-based watchmaker’s unusual bi-retrograde design.

 

The new Reservoir Sonomaster Chronograph Black Thunder.

Like the existing Sonomaster models, the new Chronograph Black Thunder takes its dial design cues from the retro look of VU meters on analog stereo amplifiers. Rather than showing volume levels, Reservoir displays seconds (left side) and the date (right side) on the dial.

With its all-black dress, the new watch is meant to echo the prevailing color of rock concerts, where the needle on a VU meter might just reach 11. Reservoir extends the high-volume inspiration with the design of the watch’s pushers and crown, which are made to look like the treble and bass buttons on rock amplifiers.

The bi-retrograde dial retains the Sonomaster’s existing 120° date and seconds displays, which also shows chronograph timing via central second, the 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock position and the hour counter at 6 o’clock.

Reservoir teams with Swiss custom movement maker La Joux-Perret to create the 43mm steel watch’s movement, automatic caliber RSV-Bi120, a manufacture bi-retrograde chronograph with column wheel.

Well-known for its dashboard-inspired jump-hour watches, Reservoir earlier this year introduced the Sonomaster Chronograph. In addition to the debuting the unusual bi-retrograde display, the watch was the brand’s first with a traditional two-hand hour and minutes display. 

Price: $6,350.

Specifications: Reservoir Sonomaster Chronograph Black Thunder

(Ref. RSV04.SN/136.BT)

Case: 43mm PVD black stainless steel with brushed finish, tachymeter bezel. Water-resistant to 50-meters, open back with domed sapphire crystal. 

Dial: Hands with Superluminova, chronograph (central second, 30-minute counter at 12, hour counter at 6), bi-retrograde date and seconds, at 120°, hour, minute.

Movement: Caliber RSV-Bi120, a manufacture bi-retrograde chronograph movement, automatic mechanical winding and column wheel (LJP-LC01 base), 60-hour power reserve, 28,800 alt./h.

Strap: Black leather with black stitching, steel butterfly folding clasp.

Price: $6,350.