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Parmigiani Fleurier Launches Tonda PF Sport 

Parmigiani Fleurier launches a pair of sporty models within its Tonda PF collection, adding the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph and Tonda PF Sport Automatic, two models that effectively replace the watchmaker’s Tonda GT collection.

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, available in a 42mm steel or rose gold case.

Both watches extend the watchmaker’s Tonda PF collection, first introduced two years ago as a slate of knurled platinum-bezel dress models with clean dials and revamped bracelets.

The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic is available in a 41mm steel or rose gold case.

The new ‘tailored’ approach to the design drew has drawn strong collector acclaim. The watchmaker has responded with a series of high-profile rattrapante designs and complicated models within the expanding Tonda PF collection.

Parmigiani Fleurier offers the new models in both steel and rose gold. As sporty watches within a fairly dressy collection, both the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph and Tonda PF Sport Automatic display design touches that confirm their sportier appeal, including a bolder bezel and broader guilloché dial pattern.

The knurled bezel on each Tonda PF Sport watch features 160 cuts rather than the finer 225-incision bezel found on the dressier Tonda PF collection.

The new dial features a hand guilloché ‘triangular nail’ pattern known as clou triangulaire, a sportier look when compared to the guilloché grain d’orge of the existing Tonda PF collection.

In addition, Parmigiani Fleurier coats the applied hour markers here with black SuperLuminova while also supplying each watch with a rubber-treated textured and stitched strap. Both watches are water-resistant to 100 meters.

For the 42mm by 12.9mm ‘panda’-style chronograph, Parmigiani Fleurier has removed the large date found on the firm’s previous GT chronographs in order to leave space for the PF logo.

This mimics the dial on the current, dressier, Tonda PF chronographs. The (smaller) date is now found between the 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock position. In addition, the new design features shorter indexes and a somewhat smaller flange.

Similarly, on the 41mm by 9.8mm Tonda PF Sport Automatic the watchmaker places a small date aperture at the 6 o’clock position to allow for a clean dial marked only by a logo at the 12 o’clock position.

The PF Tonda Sport Chronograph displays its Caliber PF070 movement via a clear sapphire back.

Inside the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Parmigiani Fleurier fits its stunning Caliber PF070, a superb high-frequency (5Hz – 36,000 vph) manufacture movement with an integrated column wheel chronograph and a vertical clutch. The COSC-certified chronometer offers a power reserve of sixty-five hours.

A view of the caliber PF770 from the back of the Tonda PF Sport Automatic.

Inside the Tonda PF Sport Automatic you’ll find a Caliber PF770 with a serial-mounted double barrel and a power reserve of sixty hours. To extend the sporty design, the watchmaker also created a new, skeletonized oscillating weight for both watches. The watchmaker says the rotor now looks somewhat like the steering wheel of a Ferrari 250 GTO. 

Prices: $50,200 (chronograph in rose gold), $29,000 (chronograph in steel), $38,200 (automatic in rose gold) and $21,300 (automatic in steel). 

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The Watches

Citizen Expands Series 8 with GMT Models

Citizen expands its Series 8 collection of automatic watches with a highly anti-magnetic GMT model. Offered in three contemporary designs, including one limited-edition gold-colored model, the new watches add a highly practical function to the offerings within this much-acclaimed Citizen collection.

One of three new Citizen Series 8 automatic GMT models.

With their traditional GMT function, the new watches allow the wearer to read the time in up to three time zones via the bi-directional rotating bezel.

The bezel colors are split into daytime and nighttime hues, represented by blue and black on the black-dialed model and red and light blue on the model with the dark blue dial.

Citizen created a dial designed to mimic Tokyo at night with a pattern meant to recall skyscrapers and windows of different sizes. The pattern updates a classic checkerboard design, which in Japan are said to represent prosperity.

Citizen finishes the 41mm by 13.5mm steel case on the two ongoing models with both mirror and brushed finishes with multiple patterns. Automatic caliber 9054 is visible through the clear caseback. Citizen adds strong magnetic resistance to the caliber and case, which helps the watch maintain average daily accuracy of-10 to +20 seconds and a fifty-hour running time.

The yellow-gold-colored Series 8 GMT is a limited-edition of 1,300 pieces worldwide. Citizen explains that its designers were inspired by the “warm golden rays of the autumn sun in Japan” when coloring the case, bracelet and dial.

The embossed dial pattern here is particularly impressive. Meant to recall the appearance of light and shade created by long autumn grass during the sunset, it elevates the visual appeal of this limited edition with an artisanal approach not typically seen at this price level.

Here, Citizen frames the dial with a pleasing brown and cream-colored GMT bi-directional bezel. And like the ongoing GMT models, this limited edition also exposes its Caliber 9054 movement through a clear caseback. 

Prices: $1,795 (limited edition) and $1,695.

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Patek Philippe Debuts Complications in Tokyo 

For its grand exhibition “Watch Art” Tokyo 2023, which is open through June 25, Patek Philippe launches six limited editions, including a new Quadruple Complication (Reference 5308P-010) and the first World Time watch equipped with a date display synchronized with local time (Reference 5330G-010).

The new Patek Philippe self-winding Reference 5308P-010 combines a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar.

Patek Philippe also debuted a new edition of its World Time Minute Repeater (Reference 5531R-014) and ladies’ Moon Phase model (Reference 7121/200G-010). The watchmaker also added two new Calatrava models (References 6127G-010 and 7127G-010) especially made for the Japanese market. All other Special Editions will also be offered primarily in Japan, with prices on request. 

In addition to these wristwatches, Patek Philippe also created a new collection of ‘rare handcrafts’ models, including dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches, each decorated with artisanal dial and case work inspired by Japanese culture. We’ll show you these spectacular works of horological art in a second post tomorrow. 

The Minute Repeater

This Quadruple Complication (Reference 5308P-010) is a limited edition of fifteen watches and as noted above unites a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar in apertures.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5308P

Patek Philippe explains that its watchmakers were inspired by the existing Triple Complication Reference 5208 from 2011, with minute repeater, chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar. To add the split-seconds mechanism, which requires more energy to operate, watchmakers devised a new platinum mini-rotor in order to increase winding power.

 

The resulting new caliber (R CHR 27 PS QI, with 799 parts),offers two patented inventions that reduce energy consumption with regard to the clutch and the split seconds.

 

The instantaneous perpetual calendar ensures instant advance of the day, date and month disks. Patek Philippe delivers the watch with two interchangeable case backs: one in sapphire crystal adorned with the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo” and the other in solid platinum engraved with the same wording. 

The World Time Minute Repeater 

This limited edition Reference 5531R-014 will be made a a limited edition of fifteen watches.

The Ref. 5531R features a self-winding R 27 HU caliber combining a minute repeater with the World Time display.

At its center you’ll see a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel decoration representing the historic Chuo district in the center of Tokyo. The name “Tokyo” appears in red on the city disk.

 

Patek Philippe originally launched the watch in 2017 as the first minute repeater that always chimes the local time, which is displayed by a pierced hour hand in rose gold. Echoing the other minute repeater, this model is delivered with two interchangeable case backs.

World Timer Tokyo

Patek Philippe has endowed this new World Time model with a patented world first: a date display synchronized with local time (the time zone selected at the 12 o’clock position and displayed by the center hands.)

This new World Time model Reference 5330G is endowed with a patented world first date display synchronized with local time.

The watch’s plum-colored dial is embellished with a hand guilloched center while its date display is located on the beveled dial flange and indicated via a center hand in glass with a red tip. To further customize the watch, Patek Philippe has placed the name “Tokyo” in red on the city disk. Furthermore, Japan’s national emblem replaces the classic sun symbol on the 24-hour disk.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5330G, details. 

The watch is a 40mm polished white-gold model with curved two-tier fluted lugs and is worn on a strap in shiny black alligator leather with plum-colored hand stitching, secured by a fold-over clasp in white gold.

 

The sapphire-crystal back is adorned with the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo”. 

Ladies’ Moon-Phase

A year after Patek Philippe launched a new edition of this model, the watchmaker adds a special edition version (Reference 7121/200G-010) as a limited edition of 200 watches.

This model with pearly gray dial and strap is a variation on a ladies’ moon phase watch launched in 2022.

The watch’s classic round Calatrava case in white gold (diameter 33 mm) with an Officer’s style design in pearl grey with rounded flanks, straight lugs with screwed strap bars. Around the dial we see two rows of diamonds in a lace setting.

 

Inside Patek Philippe fits its excellent manual-wind caliber 215 PS LU, the smallest complicated movement made by Patek Philippe.

 

The transparent sapphire-crystal back bears the transfer-printed inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo”. 

Two Calatrava References 

Patek Philippe created a new Calatrava case that emphasizes two-tier fluted and bezeled lugs for these two models (Ref. 6127G-010 and Ref. 7127G-010).

The men’s Reference 6127G-010, measuring 36mm in diameter, is distinguished by its light blue lacquered dial.

Launched as a pair, the watches display white gold baton-style applied hour markers and cheveu-style hands.

 

The men’s Reference 6127G-010 (diameter 36 mm) features a light-blue lacquer dial and a matching shiny alligator-leather strap.

This 31mm Calatrava 7127G features lugs inspired by Reference 5270.

The smaller model, measuring 31mm in diameter, offers a lilac colored dial. Both feature white-gold cases engraved with“Patek Philippe – Tokyo”. Inside each is a caliber 215 PS manually wound movement.

 

Patek Philippe offers them in Japan as two editions limited to 400 watches each, of which 300 are sold as a set in a double presentation box for the two watches, while 100 may be acquired separately. 

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The Watches

MB&F Revisits Driving Watches with Sleek HM8 Mark 2 

MB&F is back at the race track with the new HM8 Mark 2, a more compact version of its auto-inspired HM8 that combines the supercar styling of the watchmaker’s HM5 with the driving watch display and open ‘hood’ of the MB&F HM8 from 2016. 

The new MB&F HM8 Mark 2.

The new watch also features a similar horizontal time display optically magnified and projected 90 degrees to the wearer via a series of sapphire prisms.

But instead of the titanium and gold casing used in the earlier models, the new HM8 Mark 2 is built from titanium topped with CarbonMacrolon, a composite material composed of a polymer matrix injected with carbon nanotubes.

The English racing green version of the new MB&F HM8 Mark 2 is a limited edition of 33.

The material, developed for MB&F, is eight times lighter than steel and can be colored, polished, bead-blasted, lacquered or satin-finished. 

MB&F takes full advantage of those properties to create a lighter, smaller and more brightly colored driving watch, inviting a more unisex appeal to the debut.

For this debut, MB&F opts for a white or British racing green finish, matte on the top and high polish on the sides. The white version is paired with a green CVD rotor and light-green minute markers.

The British racing green version (a limited edition of 33) comes with a red gold rotor and balance wheel and turquoise minute markers. 

MB&F explains that the double-curved sapphire it uses on three sides of the HM8 Mark 2 is thirty to forty times more expensive than standard domed sapphire, and a result the watchmaker could find only one supplier for the component.

The trademark battle 22-karat gold axe rotor is also a chore to construct as it is only two-tenths of a milimeter thick and can’t be made by machine. Instead, it must be stamped, with the engraving already incorporated into the stamp.

The new watch’s crown is also unusual. Echoing the “double de-clutch” system found on race-cars, it operates by pushing it in and turning it three-quarters of a turn to release it. This ensures the watch’s 30 meters of water resistance while also maintaining a less intrusive profile.

The MB&F HM8 Mark 2 launches in two editions:  Titanium and green CarbonMacrolon body (limited to 33 pieces) and titanium and white CarbonMacrolon body panel.

Price: $78,000. 

 

Specifications: MB&F HM8 Mark 2 

Movement: Three-dimensional horological ‘engine’ composed of a jumping hour and trailing minutes module developed in-house by MB&F, powered by a Girard-Perregaux base movement. Mechanical movement, automatic winding with 22-karat gold automatic winding rotor. Power reserve is 42 hours, balance frequency is 28,800 bph.

Functions/indications: Bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes, displayed by dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lens.

Case: Grade 5 titanium with green or white CarbonMacrolon, dimensions: 47mm x 41.5mm x 19mm. Water resistance to 30 meters. Sapphire crystals on top, front and display back treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces. Dual reflective sapphire crystal prisms with integrated magnifying lens.

Strap & Buckle: Calfskin: White for the British green model and green for the white model with a titanium tang buckle.

Price: $78,000

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The Watches

Chronoswiss Reaches for the Sun 

Chronoswiss continues to explore the universe with the new Space Timer Solaris, the independent Swiss watchmaker’s third watch in its relatively new Space Timer collection.

The new Chronoswiss Space Timer Solaris.

Like the earlier Space Timer Moonwalk and Space Timer Jupiter models, the new entry into the regulator-style collection boasts an unusual high-tech dial inspired by galactic-themes, patterns and colors.

As its name implies, the Space Timer Solaris’s fiery orange and red dial is meant to mimic the surface of the sun. Chronoswiss artisans created the dial’s textured surface by placing seventeen layers of nano-printed and laser-sculpted metal onto a gold-plated surface.

The watch’s multilayered dial is composed in part of a raised date disc and hour ring, each built from clear ITR2, a carbon nano-tube synthetic material.

Though employing a regulator dial display like the existing Open Gear ReSec series, the newer Space Timer collection offers a celestial dial theme that replaces that collection’s retrograde seconds hand with a large moon phase and date sub-dial. 

That date subdial is a heat-colored titanium globe with SuperLuminova that display the moon’s rotation and a few stars. Around the globe, miniature steel (0.6mm) ’planet’ balls serve as date indicators between Arabic numerals.

The remainder of the dial echoes the familiar Chronoswiss Open Gear regulator dial layout, with a polished and skeletonized bridge supporting the raised, decentralized hour display.

A long central minute hand and central seconds hand both rotate above the full Space Timer Solaris universe.

The watch’s rotor is skeletonized and orange-colored with Côtes de Genève finishing.

Chronoswiss fits its ETA-based C.308 automatic caliber into a 44mm by 15.2mm steel case to power this impressive galactic display. 

The Chronoswiss Space Timer Solaris is a limited edition of fifty pieces.

Price: $18,800.

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