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Blancpain Adds Gold and Titanium to 42mm Fifty Fathoms 

Blancpain adds new models to its Fifty Fathoms Automatique collection, which the manufacture first launched in its new 42.3mm by 14.2mm size last year as a limited edition in steel.

The newest models of this famed dive watch, which debuted in 1953 to usher in the modern dive watch era, now include Automatique series examples in red gold and titanium in addition to the steel-cased version now included within the ongoing Fifty Fathoms Automatique collection. 

Caliber 1315

You might recall that in 2007 Blancpain launched the first 45mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique, which was equipped with specially developed Caliber 1315 with a five-day power reserve.

The newest Fifty Fathoms series adds the smaller diameter option to the full collection and makes it  available in three case metals.

In red gold, the watches are a bit more luxurious than a standard dive model, but equally functional and still highly legible.

In Grade 23 titanium, the watches are sportier looking, with the added bonus of offering a lightweight and highly scratch-resistant case, as well as superior anti-corrosion and anti-allergenic attributes.

All retain the collection’s characteristic sapphire-topped bezel and serious dive-ready specifications (including 300-meters of water resistance.) 

Available with a blue or black dial, the new red gold and titanium models are offered with an alluring choice of color-matched straps, including sail-canvas, NATO straps and textured rubber iteration inspired by the first model from 1953. For the titanium debut, Blancpain also offers a sharp-looking titanium bracelet.

Prices start at $15,700 in steel and $17,000 in titanium. Red gold model starts at $34,100. 

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The Watches

Azimuth’s Supersonic Aircraft 

 

By Steve Huyton

Approximately twelve years ago I walked into The Hourglass, a specialist watch boutique in Sydney, and it changed my perception about horology. 

At this time there was a new wave of high contemporary brands like De Bethune, MB&F and Urwerk. These amazing labels were pushing the boundaries of watchmaking with radical designs and unusual materials. Some of their pieces were exceptionally futuristic in appearance with extraordinarily complicated mechanical movements. 

Unfortunately, the issue for the consumer was these watches (due to price point) are inaccessible to most. This is where Swiss/Singapore brand Azimuth found a niche in the market. Ultimately, Azimuth has created Avant-Garde designs at more affordable cost, and a brilliant example can be found in the newly released Land Cruiser.

The Azimuth Land Cruiser

Azimuth co-founder Chris Long says the “Land Cruiser is a testament to Azimuth’s enduring love affair between imagination and science fiction, fused into the realm of horology. It’s a rugged hovercraft with off-road capabilities that embarks on a highly classified military project to a newly formed planet 500 light years away.”

Certainly looking at the brand’s DNA this influence is highly apparent in all of its designs. Previously I wrote an article called Ode to Mr. Roboto, which chronicles the evolution of this amazing timepiece, which is inspired by 1960s toy robots. 

The Land Cruiser is a totally different entity that involved four years of fastidious research and development. Looking at the finished result the end definitely justifies the means.

The Landship 

In 2010, Azimuth launched the SP-1 Landship, its most ambitious watch to date. Inspired by a World War I military tank, the watch exudes very large proportions and has a 51mm x 44mm x 20mm titanium case. Subsequently, the brand unveiled six hand-painted replica tank versions (of the SP-1 Landship) at Krasnaya, The Watch Art Gallery in Singapore. 

Even though today’s Land Cruiser resembles the original Landship, the overall design in my opinion is far more sophisticated.

For example, the satin-brushed scaled-down case (which supersonic aircraft’s afterburner) has chiseled sides and a top-mounted crown. This makes the façade much sleeker and ergonomic on the wrist. Time is displayed by the domed wondering hour (12 o’clock position) and via a slanted retrograde minute aperture (6 o’clock position).

Powering the watch is a highly modified Swiss automatic movement supplied by Sellita. The Caliber SW200-1 comprises 26 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This exquisite Perlage finished mechanism is visibly showcased via a sapphire crystal exhibition-style window.

Caseback view of the Azimuth Land Cruiser.

Functionally the Land Cruiser features regulator hours (via a sapphire crystal dome) and retrograde minutes. The watch also is water resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of forty hours. To complete the picture, the Land Cruiser is presented on a rubber strap with a folding buckle and is housed in a special military ammo box.

The Azimuth Land Cruiser is limited to 100 pieces worldwide and retails at CHF 6,800 (approximately $7,750).

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

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The Watches

Introducing The AOS Dark Sky 1962

 

By Steve Huyton

Over the last few years, I have written several books about design and horology. This has given me a unique insight into the world of luxury. What fascinates me is overall psychology, which also creates desire, fulfillment and necessity. 

Within the watch industry brands pay millions on complicated marketing campaigns. This is also the age of the brand ambassador that, in my opinion, has been a game changer. 

Ultimately this has had a profound effect on small independents who have found themselves in a David and Goliath type scenario. The positive news is that it has stimulated sole watchmakers to create more adventurous pieces. A great example can be found in Roland Stampfli, the owner of Swiss-based AOS Watches.

Roland Stampfli

I’ve known Roland for nearly a decade and absolutely love his backstory. Essentially the brand was established to honor the legacy of his father, Arthur Oskar Stampfli. Roland’s mission is to create a beautiful range of timepieces.

The AOS Black Wind Roses.

Some of my favorites have been the ‘Black Wind Roses’ and ‘Elements‘ collections made with renowned South Australian artist Timothy John.

Examples from The Cat Edition

Just over a couple of years ago, I wrote an article for IW Magazine called AOS Feline Frenzy featuring a super cool watch called The Cat Edition. This particular model features a cool cat tattoo style illustration that is consistent with Roland Stampfli’s passions. 

New watch

Recently Roland unveiled the Dark Sky 1962 watch, a limited edition of fifteen pieces worldwide. What differentiates this timepiece from other models is the scaled-up case size.

The AOS Dark Sky 1962

Previous AOS editions have had 46mm to 47mm diameters that generally wear smaller. The Dark Sky 1962 is a true 51mm (excluding the crown) which makes a much bolder design statement.

I’m definitely in favor of these increased proportions as a lover of XL watches. Due to the use of anodized aluminum, this watch only weighs 100 grams. Ultimately this means it feels exceptionally comfortable and lightweight on the wrist.

What makes the Dark Sky 1962 so special is the brown and black screen-printed graphic dial. This perfectly complements the matte black case which is punctuated with eleven torque screws (that act as indexes).

Other delightful features include a domed sapphire crystal, skeletonized lugs and screw-down crown. Powering the watch is a Swiss-made automatic movement sourced from ETA. The Caliber 2892-2 comprises 21 jewels and oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Functionally the Dark Sky 1962 features hours, minutes, seconds and a date indication at 3 o’clock. The watch is also water resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of 42 hours. As a perfect finale, the timepiece is presented on a high-quality black leather strap with a matching buckle.

Steve Huyton is an industrial designer, illustrator and author who publishes Total Design Reviews

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The Watches

Girard-Perregaux Launches a Titanium Laureato Chronograph 

 

Girard-Perregaux adds titanium to its Laureato collection with the new Laureato Chronograph Ti49, a 42mm model that echoes the original 1975 Laureato design, complete with its octagonal bezel, round frame and tonneau-shaped case.

The new Girard-Perregaux the new Laureato Chronograph Ti49.

As the first new-generation Laureato Chronograph with a titanium-case, the new watch exhibits its light reflection and refraction with a material that differs in both weight and appearance from the steel models.

The Grade 5 titanium used here is composed of almost 90% titanium, 6% aluminum, 4% vanadium and small traces of iron and oxygen, which means it is lighter than steel while remaining strong, corrosion resistant, non-magnetic and hypoallergenic.

Girard-Perregaux nicely accentuates the grey monochrome of the titanium alloy with contrasting finishes of brushed and polished angles, all of which re-define the chronograph’s look on the wrist when compared with the steel models. Here, Girard-Perregaux polishes the circular plinth beneath the bezel, the case edges, the chronograph pushers and the central bracelet links.

On the dial the watchmaker also perfectly complements the grey platinum tone with a grey dial finished using the deep Clous de Paris pattern well known to fans of the brand. Grey PVD-treated hour and minute hands and matching baton-type indexes (with white luminescent material) top the dial.

In addition to the chronograph counters, the dial also features the GP logo and name, a minute track and white markers that circle the counters.

Inside the watch Girard-Perregaux fits its superb Manufacture Caliber GP03300 (above), an automatic movement nicely decorated with the high-end finishing expected from this high-end watchmaker.

These finishes include Côtes de Genève in circular and straight form, circular graining, satin finish, chamfering, mirror polishing, snailing, engravings, sunray finishing and blued steel screws.

Price: $19,400. 

 

Specifications: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

(Reference 81020-21-3263-1CM) 

Case:

Material: titanium, polished and satin finished

Dimensions: 42.00 mm

Height: 12.00 mm

Glass: anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Case-back: secured by 6 screws

Dial: grey with a ‘Clous de Paris’ pattern, grey PVD-treated GP logo, ‘baton’-type grey PVD-treated indexes with luminescent material (white emission)

Hands: ‘baton’ type grey PVD-treated hands with luminescent material (white emission)

Water resistance: 100 meters

Movement:

Reference: GP03300-0141

Self-winding mechanical movement

Diameter: 25.95 mm (111/2’’’)

Height: 6.50 mm

Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4 Hz)

Number of components: 419

Number of jewels: 63

Power reserve: min. 46 hours

Functions: Chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds, date

Bracelet: titanium, polished and satin finished

Price: $19,400.

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Bulova Enhances Surveyor Series  

Bulova adds two new value-priced automatic models to its classic Surveyor collection, a series that offers a contemporary sculpted-edged case.

One of the new 39mm Bulova Surveyor models, available in three dial options.

All sporting a new 39mm case size, one new Surveyor model offers three sunburst-finished dial options: pistachio green, dark green or burgundy.

Bulova fits the two green models on a quick-release brown leather strap or a matching quick-release three-link stainless steel bracelet.

The burgundy dialed Surveyor, with rose-gold-hued markers, hands and crown, is also fit with a quick-release three-link stainless steel bracelet.

All Surveyor models include luminescent minute markers and a magnified date display. Inside Bulova places an automatic movement with date. Prices: $425 to $475.

If you’re in the market for something with a more luxurious feel, Bulova’s newest Surveyor Heartbeat Automatic might tick your boxes.

With a sculpted Surveyor case, the new watch amps up the watch’s higher-end profile with gold-coloring on the case and on the three-link bracelet. Its Heartbeat dial exposes a portion of the automatic movement below, all framed by a radiant sunburst champagne dial. Price: $525.

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