Maurice Lacroix created a special version of its Aikon skeleton watch to be auctioned by Phillips to benefit TimeForArt, a watch auction charity that supports contemporary artists and public art education. The auction, Phillips’ New York Watch Auction: ‘Seven,’ is slated for December 10 and 11.
For the special auction piece, Maurice Lacroix has worked closely with movement specialist Sellita to devise a new version of its automatic ML115 (base SW200).
The watchmaker has applied a special rainbow treatment to the movement plate and bridges. The oscillating weight has also been is customized, incorporating sandblasted and sun-brushed decoration.
Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case, the special Aikon skeleton watch is supplied with a matching bracelet and supplied with an additional black rubber strap. Auction estimate: $3,000 – $6,000.
Ineichen Auctioneers will auction highly collectible watches featuring date and calendar complications at its December 3 auction in Zurich. Watches made by F.P. Journe, Daniel Roth, De Bethune, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Svend Andersen highlight the top lots.
The upcoming auction is the second part of a series that began with the October 29 sale of watches with tourbillons and skeleton movements.
Here is a brief look at the auction’s top lots.
F.P.Journe/Octa Chrono 33/99-02C
The F.P.Journe Octa Chrono 33/99-02C is a highly collectible chronograph limited to 99 pieces. It was launched with the Ruthénium Collection between 2001 and 2003. This was the first limited edition collection by F.P.Journe, who was one of the few watchmakers to have developed a wristwatch with its own interpretation of a classic chronograph complication.
The watch completed the Swiss watch brand’s production of watches with movements traditionally made from brass with galvanic coatings. In this instance, he used a 40mm case for the first time, incorporating a thin, self-winding caliber 1300, mainplate and bridges in brass with dark grey ruthenium coating, gilt engravings, a rotor in 22-karat rose gold with grain d’orge guilloché pattern and a power reserve of up to 160 hours. Estimate: CHF 150,000-200,000.
This numbered edition of a perpetual calendar is presented in a double ellipse- shaped case in 18-karat white gold, measuring 35mm x 38mm and 9.8mm.. Roth was the head watchmaker at Breguet for fifteen years, where he recreated the classic Breguet style and developed some iconic watches, including tourbillon, chronograph, perpetual calendar pieces, as well as Ref. 3130, inspired by Breguet’s pocket watch No. 5 of 1794.
For his own brand, founded in 1989 and active until 2010, Roth developed a kind of late-20th century Breguet style with a double ellipse-shaped Ellipsocurvex case design, ruthenium-plated guilloché dials, and blued steel arrow hands.
This lot offers a unique configuration of complications, a finely elaborated dial design, and haute horlogerie movement finishings. Seldom seen on the secondary market and believed to be very limited in production, available references do not seem to exceed serial number 39. The model belongs to a series of semi-instantaneous perpetual calendars powered by the self-winding caliber DR114 and does not have a moonphase display. This appeared later in a more complicated version of the watch. Estimate: CHF 20,000-25,000.
DB15 Perpetual Calendar Ref. DB15WT
In 2004, just two years after its founding, De Bethune launched the groundbreaking DB15 perpetual calendar embedded with an impressive list of unique features. This rare white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch was launched in 2004. Cased in 18-karat white gold (diameter 43.4mm and 12mm thick) it features cone-shaped lugs and a sapphire caseback. Its matte silver-plated gold four-part dial features a raised chapter ring with blue Roman numerals and peripheral ‘railway’ minutes track, moonphase and leap-year sub-dial at 12 o’clock in polished and blued steel with stars in yellow gold, blued steel hands.
Inside is Caliber DB2004, a manual-winding movement with De Bethune patented 3-spoke titanium balance with platinum ogival weights, De Bethune patented self-compensating free sprung hairspring with a flat end-curve, double barrel, power reserve up to 5 days. Functions include indication of time in hours and minutes, perpetual calendar indicating date at 6 o’clock, days of the week in an aperture at 9 o’clock, months in an aperture at 3 o’clock and leap-year in an aperture at 12 o’clock, De Bethune spherical moonphase indicator at 12 o’clock.This reference is discontinued, the present example in 18k white gold with a solid-gold silvered dial is one of only 45 pieces ever produced by the brand.
Estimate: CHF 70,000-80,000.
Reverso Grande Date Septantième, Ref.240.6.90.
This unusual platinum complicated wristwatch was part of a limited collection launched to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the Reverso in 2002. Limited to 500 pieces, the watch tracks hours and minutes.
The platinum Reverso has been an exclusive offering of the brand since the early 2000s. Almost all of them are equipped with complicated calibers, often offering a unique set of complications, such as the present reference. It was the first Reverso to be powered by an eight-day caliber, to use white gold for producing the caliber’s mainplate and bridges, to have a large Reverso XGT-sized case in platinum, and to have a big date indicator.
It is likely that this is the only one with a caliber that uses a swan neck index regulator. Caliber 879 was designed solely for two Reverso Septantième limited editions and is used nowhere else.
Estimate: CHF 15,000-20,000.
Chronometre Perpetual WG
Svend Andersen was a founding father of the Academy of Independent Watchmakers (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendant, AHCI) in 1985. Prior to that, from 1969, he worked for nine years in the Atelier des Complications of Patek Philippe.
The Chronometre Perpetual was produced in very small quantities and rarely appears on the secondary market. A masterpiece of complicated mechanics and design, the Andersen Genève Chronometre Perpetual No. 27 represents one of the watchmaker’s extraordinary developments for the perpetual calendar, which is double-sided in this instance. He favored unexpected and paradoxical decisions, achieved by the contrast of this minimalist design with the apparent complexity of the perpetual calendar mechanism that has only a single date display on the dial.
To celebrate its fiftieth anniversary, Porsche Design will auction a one-of-a-kind Porsche Design Chronograph 1 at Sotheby’s. The watch will be sold as a set with a meticulously restored 1972 Porsche 911 S 2.4 Targa “50 Years of Porsche Design Edition” unique-edition car.
The chronograph, built to mimic the original Porsche Design watch from 1972, is often considered the first all-black sports watch. It features a black dial with a red seconds hand and antireflective glass, both details inspired by the Porsche 911 instrument panel. In addition, the dial, crown, wristband, and case back bear the historic Porsche Design logo.
For the auction watch however, Porsche Design upped the vintage ante with another unique component. The movement’s rotor is designed to exactly echo the look of historical Fuchsfelge rims found on the 1972 Targa.
Porsche designed the car to pay tribute to the Porsche Design anniversary. It car features ‘Porsche Design’ lettering on both sides with a ‘50 Years of Porsche Design’ logo on the headrests. Even the dashboard echoes the theme with a silver-colored 911 plaque that reads ‘Edition 50 Years of Porsche Design’.
The auction, slated during Sotheby’s Luxury Week in New York from November 30th to December 14th, follows a six-month exhibition of both the car and the chronograph at the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart just prior to being presented during Monterey Car Week in California this past August.
The two-week online auction will start on November 29at 12pm EST and close on December 14, 2022 at 12pm EST.
The profit from the sale of select modern Grand Seiko timepieces during the auction will be donated to the Fairchild Tropical Botanical Garden in Miami, Florida. Its commitment to the environment perfectly aligns with the brand’s “Nature of Time” philosophy and recognizes the importance of the natural world as a source of inspiration and creativity, according to Grand Seiko.
Funds raised from the auction of special piece-unique Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (Ref. SLGT001) will be donated to the Children’s Heart Foundation, a leading organization dedicated to funding congenital heart defect research.
The Grand Seiko Kodo up for auction is unique in several ways when compared to the global model, reference SLGT003, which is limited to twenty pieces.
First, the multi-component case structure is made entirely of Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy, Brilliant Hard Titanium. In addition, Grand Seiko colors the bridges, mainplate, and many of the components of the movement in a plated silver color. Finally, on this unique piece Grand Seiko has hand-tempered the screws blue instead of mirror polishing them, as they are on reference SLGT003.
The top bidder will also receive a trip to Japan to meet its creators, the Grand Seiko team, and a visit to Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi in the Iwate prefecture.
The Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, introduced earlier this year, is Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication watch. It features an unusual movement that delivers high accuracy by combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the very first time in horological history. The watch is named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat.
Zurich-based auction house Ineichen Auctioneers will offer an enticing series of auctions featuring complicated watches during the final quarter of 2022.
First up is an auction on October 29 that features more than thirty watches and will showcase tourbillons and open-worked (skeletonizied) watches. Part two of the series, slated for December 3, will focus on watches with chronograph and date functions.
Notable lots for the October auction include a Vacheron Constantin Les Complications Tourbillon Ref. 30050, an MB&F LM Perpetual, a Girard-Perregaux Laureato Flying Tourbillon Skeleton, a Daniel Roth Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, several stunning Jaeger-LeCoultre complicated pieces, an IWC minute repeater and a pair of Breguet beauties, among others.
“Despite their mechanical complexity, I think tourbillon watches and skeletonized pieces are the most visually pleasing. This auction is purely about joy-inducing aesthetics for me,” says Ineichen Auctioneers CEO Artemy Lechbinsky.
Here’s a peek at a few of the top lots for the October 29 auction.
Vacheron Constantin Les Complications Tourbillon (Ref. 30050/000P-7605)
This early and rare tourbillon (dated 1990-2000) from Vacheron Constantin is cased in platinum 950 with a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 11.5mm and a sapphire caseback.
Silvered gold dial with Clous de Paris guilloché pattern, Caliber 1760, hand-wound, double barrel. Functions: indication of time in hours and minutes, small seconds hand on tourbillon shaft, power reserve at 12 o’clock. Black leather strap, Vacheron Constantin half Maltese cross-shaped platinum pin buckle. Estimate: CHF 30,000-40,000.
An impressive limited-edition rose gold tourbillon and chronograph wristwatch. Estimated production period: 2013–2019. Case made of 18-karat rose gold, diameter 43mm and 13.4mm thick frames anopen-worked dial, sapphire caseback. Caliber PF354 is manually wound with power reserve up to 65 hours. Functions: indication of hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, tourbillon at 6 o’clock, chronograph with central seconds hand and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. Original Parmigiani Fleurier black leather strap, made by Hermes, Parmigiani Fleurier 18-karat rose gold pin buckle. Limited edition of 30 pieces. Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 40,000.
The complexity of this fully integrated perpetual calendar developed by MB&F and Stephen McDonnell limits the production. The 581-component in-house movement was developed to eliminate the drawbacks of conventional perpetual calendars. It is designed to be user-friendly, ensuring that dates are not skipped or gears jammed. Adjuster pushers automatically deactivate when the calendar changes.
This watch forms part of a collection limited to twenty-five pieces that was launched in 2020. It is presented in a yellow gold case, which contrasts beautifully with the blue detail on the dial. High-end hand finishes that respect the 19th-century style can be admired throughout. The watch is fastened with a black leather strap with 18-karat yellow and white gold MB&F triple folding clasp produced by G&F Chatelain.
The numbered edition 42mm Laureato Flying Tourbillon Skeleton, first introduced in 2017, is produced exclusively in 18-karat gold. It is arguably one of the finest complicated luxury sports watches presented on an integrated bracelet.
Caliber GP09520-0001, which powers this model, is an extremely rare movement for Girard-Perregaux. It is equipped with a flying tourbillon, devoid of a bridge on the dial side, and features a proprietary design normally with three gold bridges. The GP09520-0001 is produced exclusively in the skeletonized version and was the brand’s first self-winding flying tourbillon movement. Estimate: CHF 60,000 to 80,000.
Daniel Roth Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date ‘XV years’ Limited Edition (Ref. 199.Y.70.011.CN.BD)
This watch showcases a rare combination of complications: a perpetual calendar with two retrograde indicators (date and leap year), tourbillon and automatic winding functionality, which are powered by the DR740 caliber. All Ref. 199 sub-references were produced in very limited quantities and precious metals including platinum as seen in the current lot. It was launched in 2004 as a jubilee limited edition to commemorate the brand’s 15th anniversary.
Early Daniel Roth watches are known for their elaborate dials decorated with different guilloché motifs that highlight the placement of his signature blued steel hands as well as double ellipse-shaped Ellipsocurvex cases and haute horlogerie movement finishes.
This piece is one of the first generation (Mk1) releases of the Ref. 199 design. It features a solid dial as well as a guilloché small seconds subdial with three “XV” embossed inscriptions woven into the pattern. Such decoration is atypical of the Daniel Roth style. The presence of a tourbillon is indicated only by the inscription “Tourbillon” on the subdial because it is only visible through the sapphire caseback. There is also an engraved inscription “XV years” on the rim of the caseback. Estimate: CHF 30,000 to 40,000.
Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon ‘Senza B’ (Ref. 5357PT/1B/9V6)
Thisrare and fine platinum tourbillon wristwatch was most probably produced in 2012. Case made of platinum 950, it measures 39mm by 8.9mm, with a signed crown, sapphire caseback, 18k gold silver-plated dial with hand-made guilloché decoration, recessed hours and minutes sub-dial, Breguet double secret signature between XI and XII and XII and I. The hand-wound caliber 558.1 is hand-engraved with Breguet hairspring. Functions – hours, minutes, tourbillon, small seconds hand on the tourbillon shaft. Black leather strap with Breguet platinum 950 double folding clasp.
This Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon Ref. 5357 was introduced in 2002 as a larger 39mm alternative to the original 35mm Tourbillon Ref. 3357 (initially 3350). Unlike reference 3357, Ref. 5357 featured a new single-layer solid-gold and silvered dial, decorated by hand-made guilloché pattern, with a recessed hours and minutes sub-dial and a round tourbillon aperture, but the same original Breguet’s hand-wound tourbillon caliber 558 (version 558.1).
The reverse side of the movement deserves special attention – it is exquisitely and lavishly engraved by hand, and, moreover, there exists at least five basic engraving generations. The engraving of caliber 558 is done by hand and although it follows one of the 5 basic designs, the engraving is different each time in small details, and therefore any watch is essentially a unique piece. Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 40,000.