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Michael Thompson

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MB&F adds two new versions of its aerodynamic Horological Machine No.9 Sapphire Vision (HM9-SV), now offering models with a blue CVD movement in a white gold frame and a green CVD movement with a yellow gold frame. The clear case fully exposes the watch’s dual cantilevered balances, planetary differential and free-spinning twin turbines.

One of two new HM9-SV models.

Both new models expand the HM9-SV series, which debuted in 2021 with four clear sapphire editions of the original HM9.

With its sapphire livery, the watch joined a family of MB&F models with significant clear sapphire customization, including the HM8,  the HM3 FrogX and the ten-sapphire-crystal HM6.

The pioneering independent watchmaker debuted its first HM9 Flow in 2019 as a tribute to 1940s and 1950s automotive and aeronautic designs.

Re-engineered

MB&F culls from its wide-ranging experience of creating with sapphire when re-engineering the HM9 with its clear case. On these SV models, MB&F seals the outer hull with a proprietary three-dimensional gasket and specialized high-tech compound bonding process. The result is new type of water resistant seal (to 30 meters) that is practically invisible.

MB&F explains that its designers were also required to rework a few the original HM9 dimensions with smoother lines and fewer edges to account for the property differences of sapphire crystal.

While quite hard, sapphire can fracture under pressure, which means the smoother lines on this HM9-SV limited this possibility. At the same time the rounded edges only enhance the organic aesthetic of the full watch.

Also new to the HM9-SV is an enhanced shock-resistance system made of laser-forged springs placed between the movement and the case.

As a reminder, the ‘flow’ of time begins on the HM9-SV with two fully independent cantilevered balances that dominate the top of the HM9-SV channel data into the central, spiky differential.

This effectively melds the information sent by the dual balances to a single time-pulse. High-tech conical gears then transmit that energy to through a 90° angle, which in turn makes its way to the HM9-SV’s perpendicular sapphire crystal dial.

MB&F is offering both new editions to the HM9 Sapphire Vision family (PVD-coated blue movement with a white gold frame and a PVD-coated green movement with a yellow gold frame) as a limited edition of five pieces. Price: $490,000. 

Specifications: MB&F Horological Machine No.9 – Sapphire Vision

Movement: Manual-winding in-house with two fully independent balance wheels with planetary differential, frequency of 18,000 bph, single barrel with 45-hour power reserve. Hours and minutes on vertical dial display, dual spherical turbines under the movement,  shock-absorbing helicoidal springs linking the movement to the case.

Case: ‘SV’ editions in 57mm x 47mm x 23mm sapphire crystal with frame in 18-karat white, yellow or rose gold (5N+). Hour/minute dial in sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and Super-LumiNova on the numbers and indexes. Water resistant to 30 meters. Unique assembly process of the three sapphire crystal case parts with a patented three-dimensional gasket and high-tech bonding compound. Total of five sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating: three crystals for the main components of the case, one crystal covering the dial, and one crystal for the dial itself.

Strap: Hand-stitched brown or black alligator strap with red, yellow or white gold folding buckle matching the case.

Price: $490,000. 

Zenith presents two encore editions of its colorful Defy 21 Chroma, a white ceramic Defy 21 watch from 2022 characterized by a rainbow of colors on its dial and on its visible high-frequency movement components. The Le Locle manufacture unveils the Defy 21 Chroma II, a new edition of the watch, which Zenith is offering in a black ceramic case and a white ceramic case.

On the black ceramic Zenith Defy 21 Chroma you’ll find hues based on the primary colors.

The newest models, which maintain the original’s 44mm case diameter, offer their own range of colorful accents. On the black ceramic edition you’ll find hues based on the primary colors.

On the white ceramic Defy 21 Chroma Zenith emphasizes brighter colors like blue and pink.

On the white ceramic version the accents are brighter, emphasizing blues and pinks. On both, colors mark the hours and the 1/100-of-a-second scale and then continue to the crown’s rubber grip ring and the strap.

The color show continues within the movement, where Zenith has applied a different metallic color to each bridge, each coordinated with the adjacent dial marker color. From the clear sapphire back you can see more hues, notably the blue-colored oscillating weight and a colorized escapement bridge.

The movement here is Zenith’s 1/100th of a second chronograph movement, the El Primero 9004 automatic (the El Primero 21), which features two independent regulators and gear trains for the timekeeping and chronograph functions, operating at frequencies of 5Hz (36,000 VpH) and 50Hz (360,000 VpH), respectively.

Zenith is offering each model as a limited edition of 500 pieces. Price: $15,600. We expect these colorful models to sell quickly given the strong response to the original edition, which Zenith reports sold out of its 200-piece production run not long after its debut during LVMH Watch Week in 2022.  

 

Specifications: Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Chroma II

(Reference: 49.9014.9004/01.R953, white ceramic model)

Movement: El Primero 9004. Frequency of 36,000 VpH – 5Hz (Watch) and 360,000 VpH – 50 Hz (Chronograph) with a power reserve of 50 hours (Watch) and 50 min (Chronograph). Certified Chronometer.  “Rainbow” PVD-coated bridges and special blue-colored oscillating weight with satined finishings.

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. 1/100th of a second Chronograph: Central chronograph hand, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60 second counter at 6 o’clock, Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock (approx. 50 min).

Case: 44mm matte white ceramic with flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides; caseback also with transparent sapphire crystal. Water resistant to 100 meters. 

Dial: White open-worked with rhodium-plate, faceted and coated with rainbow varnish. Hands also rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with colored varnish.

Bracelet: White rubber strap with rainbow stitching. Titanium double folding clasp.

Price: $15,600

 

Specifications: Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Chroma II

(Reference: 49.9013.9004/21.R952—black ceramic model)

Movement: El Primero 9004. Frequency of 36,000 VpH – 5Hz (Watch) and 360,000 VpH – 50 Hz (Chronograph) with a power reserve of 50 hours (Watch) and 50 min (Chronograph). Certified Chronometer. “Rainbow” PVD-coated bridges and special blue-colored oscillating weight with satined finishings.

Functions: Hours and minutes in the center. Small seconds at 9 o’clock. 1/100th of a second Chronograph: Central chronograph hand, 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60-second counter at 6 o’clock, Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o’clock (approx. 50 min).

Case: 44mm black micro-blasted ceramic with flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides; caseback also with transparent sapphire crystal. Water resistant to 100 meters. 

Dial: Black open-worked with rhodium-plated hour markers, faceted and coated with “Rainbow” varnish. Hands are rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with colored varnish.

Bracelet: Black rubber strap with rainbow stitching. Titanium double folding clasp.

Price: $15,600

The precision craftsmanship and materials required to created a Japanese Katana sword inspires three new U.S.-exclusive Grand Seiko watches.

Grand Seiko SBGA489 and SBGA491.

The debut trio offers a choice of stunning deep red, green or black dials, each framed in a 40mm diameter by 12.5mm stainless steel case. Each features a stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp, a dual-curve sapphire crystal and a clear sapphire case back exposing the superb Spring Drive Automatic Caliber 9R65 (see specifications below).

The new Grand Seiko SBGA493 is a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Grand Seiko explains that the high-carbon steel known as kawagane used for the outer sharp edge of katana sword inspired the black dial of SBGA489 debut model. Similarly, dial artists echoed the strong inner core of the blade (the shingane) when creating the dark green dial of SBGA491.

For the limited-edition model SBGA493 with the striking red patterned dial Grand Seiko specifically references “the determination and fiery spirit needed to craft the blade.

The deep red color with yellow gold-tone accents is influenced by the heated blade during the forging process. The pattern emulates the radiating sparks created when the hammer strikes the blade.”

Grand Seiko is issuing the red-dialed edition (SBGA493) as a limited edition of 500 pieces available in September, each priced at $6,000. The black-dial model (SBGA489) and the green-dial model (SBGA491) are priced at $5,600, and both are available now.

Specifications: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 44GS USA Exclusive 

Movement: Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 Driving system: Automatic Power reserve: 72 hours Accuracy: ± 1 second per day (± 15 seconds per month).

Grand Seiko Automatic Spring Drive 3-Day Caliber 9R65.

Case: 40mm by 12.5mm stainless steel case with dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, see-through screw case back, water resistance to 100 meters and superior magnetic resistance of 4,800 A/m.

Dials: Textured deep red (SBGA493), black (SBGA489) and green (SBGA491). 

Bracelet: Stainless steel with three-fold clasp and push-button release. Kimono fabric strap included with SBGA493, the limited edition model.

Prices: $6,000 (SBGA493) and $5,600 (SBGA489 and SBGA491).

Bulova extends its long association with the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation as the watchmaker debuts a new Limited Edition watch inspired by the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Imperial Hotel in Tokyo.

The newest Bulova Frank Lloyd Wright watch, inspired by the Wright-designed Imperial Hotel in Tokyo.

Bulova also launches the new watch to mark the centennial of this hotel, an architectural masterpiece designed and built by Wright from 1913-1922.

Bulova looked specifically to a geometric peacock detail found in the hotel’s mural and carpeting. The watch’s six-sided 41mm gold-tone stainless steel case references the hexagon at the center of the peacock while the colors and shapes on the printed graphic dial echo the colorful peacock design.

The watch is powered by a Miyota quartz movement, which Bulova protects with a curved mineral crystal and thirty-meters of water resistance. From the back of the watch, note the interesting glass insert specially printed with a line drawing of the Imperial Hotel façade.

Bulova individually numbers each watch and attaches the case to a blue calf leather strap with tonal stitching and a hot-stamped pattern on underside of the strap. 

Each watch will be sold inside a gift box with a story booklet and commemorative plaque. Bulova will make 1,000 Frank Lloyd Wright watches as part of the limited edition. Price: $495.

The Imperial Hotel in Tokyo.

The Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation was founded in 1940 by Wright to advance his legacy of organic architecture, is headquartered in Scottsdale, Arizona, and owns Wright’s own homes, Taliesin and Taliesin West, along with his intellectual property. 

To see additional offerings within Bulova’s Frank Lloyd Wright Collection visit the website. 

Luminox expands its Original Navy SEAL 3000 EVO Series with a trio of watches sporting new shades of military-inspired colors.

One of the three new Luminox Original Navy SEAL 3000 EVO Series debuts, here with a sand-colored dial and matching rubber strap.

The series is the direct descendent of the Original Navy SEAL 3001 that has been officially licensed by the U.S. Navy since 1992.

The 43mm by 13mm Swiss quartz-powered watches, with their new sand, green or white dials and matching rubber bracelets (the white-dialed model features a black rubber strap), retain their robust, military approved specs.

These include 200-meters of water resistance, a tough Carbonox carbon-composite case, a sapphire crystal, a screw-in double security gasket crown and a unidirectional Carbonox bezel.

And as with all Luminox watches, the newest Original Navy SEAL 3000 EVO watches benefit from the watchmaker’s famed luminous dial treatment called Luminox Light Technology.

On these models Luminox places its self-powered micro gas light tubes on each of the hour markers and at the 12 o’clock position on the unidirectional turning bezel.

All the markers and hands on all three watches will glow in any light condition for up to twenty-five years. 

Price: $475.