Chronoswiss adds two new dial hues to its Flying Regulator Night & Day collection.Each steel-case limited edition offers its own artistic interpretation of the ongoing 41mm Chronoswiss regulator-dial collection, which emphasizes a large central minute hand set atop smaller hour and seconds indicators. The Night & Day editions add a specialized, artisanal day/night subdial at the 9 o’clock position.
This dark blue version is meant to echo a dark night sky and is accented with a three-dimensional day/night display adorned with laser-cut stars.
These stars, created with a generous dollop of SuperLumiNova, shine with notable intensity in the evening.
On the other hand, or wrist in this case, the new Flying Regulator Night & Day Whiteout echoes a daytime scene, specifically a meteorological ‘whiteout’ where the horizon blends with the sky.
Chronoswiss has also crafted an artisanal guilloché dial for this watch, here meant to recall this natural whiteout phenomenon.
As noted, both new watches retain the quite distinctive Chronoswiss regulator dial layout with notably separate hour and seconds rings. The three-dimensional dials within this series show off the ETA-basedChronoswiss caliber C.296 automatic movement via an opening in the small seconds subdial.
Of course, the movement is also visible through the sapphire caseback, a wristwatch feature Chronoswiss pioneered in the 1980s.
Chronoswiss is offering each debut as a limited edition of fifty watches.
At the end of the year it’s time to note our favorite 2023 debut watches. We continue our look at a few of our favorite timekeepers of the year.
Franck Muller: Colorado Grand
Each limited to thirty-four examples (to celebrate the 34th anniversary of the race), these new watches of the Franck Muller Colorado Grand limited edition expertly utilize the classic 45mm Vanguard tonneau-shaped case and dial as a canvas, creating dials inspired by automotive art and the technical details of vintage cars.
Notable is the silver perlage that graces each dial of the four-watch set. Set with bold hand-painted numerals, these dials recall vintage car dashboards. Four models are available, each with a colorful rendering of the numerals, crown-protector and minute track just inside the bezel. Three debuts are in steel-cases, one in titanium and the fourth cased in rose gold. Prices: $13,000 to $24,500.
William Henry: Legacy
The U.S.-based knifemaker’s first foray into wristwatches features dials created from meteorite, fossilized mammoth tooth and other exotic materials. A particularly nice example is this limited-edition Legacy Dinosaur model with a dial crafted from dinosaur bone; an extraordinary fossil material that ranges from 100 to 200 million years old. Initially it has a similar appearance to rock, but after the painstaking process of crafting a precision dial, the beautiful hues and patterns are revealed.
Surrounding the ancient dial is a forged Damascus case built with 300 layers of stainless-steel alloys and etched to reveal the individual patterns. Each watch in the debut collection is powered by a Sellita SW 400 automatic movement and housed in grade 5 titanium that is water resistant to 100 meters. Prices start at $3,750.
Louis Vuitton: Tambour
This year, Louis Vuitton updates Tambour with new finishes and a decidedly slimmer, sculpted case. The new collection is more luxurious overall and notably highlights an all-new in-house movement and a sleek integrated steel bracelet.
Two new steel watches launch the collection’s upgrade. One is a chic monochrome model with a silver grey dial and the second one sports a deep blue dial. Both are built to highlight the new unisex 40mm by 8.3mm case, its new caliber LFT023 and the new bracelet. A rose gold model and a two-tone gold and steel edition are also now available. Price: $18,500 or $52,500 (rose gold) or $26,500 (two-tone).
MB&F: Horological Machine Nº11 Architect.
This house for your wrist features four titanium ‘rooms’ radiating from a sapphire-domed central flying tourbillon. The surprising new watch recalls the designs of mid-twentieth century biomorphic-style houses, with four symmetrical parabolic ‘rooms’ emanating from a central atrium.
Each room houses a display, with one showing the time, the next showing the watch’s power reserve, a third indicating temperature and the fourth housing the winding crown. The wearer can choose which display is in direct eyesight when wearing the watch by rotating the entire housing, which will click into place as desired. Price: $200,000.
Nomos: Rose Gold Neomatik
In a year of terrific debuts by this Glashütte-based watchmaker, this rose gold designs stood out for its unusually luxurious dressing. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a limited edition 35mm model in honor of the 175th anniversary of watchmaking in Glashütte. Limited to 175 pieces worldwide, the new watch adds a sub-seconds dial and minute markers in rose gold to the original’s galvanically white silver-plated dial. And while the first Tangente series reveled in its manual-wind minimalism, the new model is poweredby the Nomos DUW 3001, a thin automatic movement adjusted to chronometer standards. Price: $11,100.
Parmigiani Fleurier: Tonda PF Sport Chronograph
Parmigiani Fleurier replaced its Tonda GT collection with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph and Tonda PF Sport Automatic, both more refined than its predecessor. We like the chronograph best here, as it combines the most attractive elements of the new Tonda PF collection (the knurled bezel, clean dials and revamped bracelets) with its 42mm by 12.9mm ‘panda’-styling.
Inside, the watchmaker fits its stunning Caliber PF070, a superb high-frequency (5Hz – 36,000 vph) manufacture movement with an integrated column wheel chronograph and a vertical clutch. The COSC-certified Chronometer offers a power reserve of sixty-five hours.
Prices: $50,200 (chronograph in rose gold), $29,000 (chronograph in steel).
At the end of the year it’s time to note our favorite 2023 debut watches. We continue our look at a few of our favorite timekeepers of the year.
Maurice Lacroix: Pontos S Diver
Maurice Lacroix revisited its Pontos S Diver earlier this year,revamping the dive watch with a sharp-looking new dial sporting bolder indexes and minute markings, improved luminosity and a raised date frame.
With the updated 42mm watch, Maurice Lacroix enhances dial visibility with newly facettedhour and minute hands, both of which glow with SuperlumiNova. On the minute hand you’ll now see a border colored to contrast with the dial. The hour indexes retain their generous luminescent treatment.
Maurice Lacroix also retains the watch’s useful internal rotating bezel to indicate elapsed time, adjusted using the crown at the 2 o’clock position. The second crown at the 3 o’clock position is used to adjust the time, date and to wind the automatic ML115 movement. All models are water resistant to 300 meters. Prices: $2,050 (steel) and $2,600 (bronze).
Bell & Ross: BR05 Chrono Green Steel
Bell & Ross mixes nature and architecture with the new BR 05 Chrono Green Steel, one of its newest in the BR 05 series of ‘rounded square’ designs.The watch is even more approachable as a steel model, when compared to the gold-cased, three-hand model (BR 05 Green Gold) from earlier in the year. Bell & Ross fits an eye-catching automotive-inspired 360-degree rotor to the movement, which is visible through a sapphire caseback.
Price: $6,200 (rubber strap) and $6,700 (steel bracelet).
Citizen: Washi Paper Limited Edition
This limited-edition model features a Tosa ‘washi’ dial enhanced with powdered platinum leaf using a traditional Japanese decorative technique called S unago-maki that echoes the look of freshly fallen snow.
The 38.3mm case and the bracelet are made of Super Titanium treated with Duratect Platinum, making the watch scratch resistant and giving the metal a gleaming, almost transparent, silver hue. And of course the watch is equipped with a high-accuracy light-powered Eco-Drive movement with an annual accuracy of ±5 seconds. Price: $4,300.
Pro Tek: Field Watch
This quite affordable 3000 Field watch is crafted in a slim (11mm) and lightweight titanium case in either a natural or black IP version. All are capped with a flat sapphire crystal over a dial and hands enhanced with 3 colors of T-100 self-illuminating tubes.
Rated and tested to a legitimate 100 meters of water resistance, the ProTek Series 3000 field watch can also be a casual-use water watch and is delivered with a waterproof Italian leather strap. With a light weight of just over 48 grams (head-only), the watches are very comfortable on the wrist for extended use. The threaded (screw-down) back is also crafted in titanium with a stylized “P” presented in deep relief, as it is on the double-gasket crown. Inside the case is a Citizen/Miyota quartz movement with a four-year battery accurate to +/- 20 seconds per month. Retail price is $475 at www.watchgauge.com.
Custos: Challenge Sealiner PS
At 59mm by 45mm, this watch’s impressive sapphire case is endowed with a non-reflective coating on both sides and is affixed with specialized Cvstos polished titanium screws. Its sharp-looking teak dial really sets it apart from other nautically themed models. Just below the stylized luminous hands (including a very cool propeller-shaped small-seconds hand) lies a teak-wood plate, echoing the woodwork found on many an ocean-cruising yacht.
Cvstos will make twenty-five examples of the Challenge Sealiner PS with orange or turquoise dial and crown accents and matching rubber strap.Price: $49,500.
Zenith: Pilot Big Date Flyback
Powered by the new El Primero 3652 automatic high-frequency chronograph (a new version of the Zenith El Primero 3600), this hero debut from Watches and Wonders 2023 displays its namesake functions with panache. The steel model is especially notable for its vintage ‘Rainbow Flyback’references with its chronograph’s minutes totalizer finished in alternating colors, which will make it easier to distinguish between the five-minute marks.
In addition, the steel model’s central chronograph seconds and its chronograph minutes hands are bright orange. This is another nod to the Zenith El Primero Rainbow from 1997. Also very cool, the model’s black ceramic version (above) is more utilitarian look with luminescent white markers and hands that contrast nicely against a black corrugated dial. On both models, the oversized date display features a new, patented mechanism that advances and stabilizes both of the big date’s wheels in less than 0.03 seconds.
Prices:
Pilot Big Date Flyback – Black Microblasted Ceramic: $13,500 and Pilot Big Date Flyback – Steel: $11,500.
At the end of the year it’s time to note our favorite 2023 debut watches. We continue our look at a few of our favorite timekeepers of the year.
Chronoswiss: Opus
Chronoswiss is now offering a contemporary take on the classic Opus design, casing two variations in grade-5 titanium. The same levers, gears and cams remain as visible as ever here, with Chronoswiss adding a CVD-coating to the watch’s caliber C.741S, an ETA Valjoux-based integrated chronograph movement.
With galvanic black skeletonized bridges, the movement retains its mesmerizing allure to enthusiasts while adding a stealthy modern twist. Look for two color options, green and blue, each of which frame and complement the movement’s web of blackened and CVD-coated gears and levers. Price: $14,500.
Bulgari: Octo Roma Chronograph
In year filled with superb chronograph debuts, this one from Bulgari was among the finest. It is the first chronograph for the eight-sided Octo Roma and introduces a new Bulgari movement, Caliber BVL 399, visible through the watch’s clear sapphire back. Two Octo Roma Chronograph models are included in the debut, one with a black dial and one in blue. Both feature an eye-catching Clous de Paris, or hobnail, pattern that appears as small pyramids across the dial, here broken only by the three sunburst-pattern chronograph subdials.Price: $9,150.
Colorado Watch: The Field Watch
At 40mm with 20mm between the lugs, the 316L stainless-steel Field Watch will comfortably fit on almost anyone’s wrist. It’s also slimmer than you might expect for an automatic watch at just 10.5mm due to the fact that the threaded case-back is recessed within the back and shaves off a couple of mms in height – A clever engineering solution for sure.
In the steel-case version, Colorado Watch decided to leave the subtle machining marks as a unique hallmark that adds an industrial effect while emphasizing that these cases were in-fact made on-site.
Inside the case beats an Americhron 7020 automatic-winding movement built by FTS USA in Arizona. Shock resistant, accurate, and beating at a frequency of 28,880 BPH, the 7A20 movements have a power reserve of around 40 hours and were designed by a team of watchmakers, including FTS’ own Chief Technical Officer. Retail price is $995.
Accutron: DNA Casino Edition
Accutron added four new colors to its electrostatic-movement-powered DNA timepiece collection to create the new Accutron DNA Casino series. This sportier version of the original Accutron Spaceview series arrives in bright-hues, including green, blue, orange and red, all meant to echo the Las Vegas neon skyline.
Like the initial Accutron DNA models, these debuts feature 45.1mm steel cases in a grey finish with silver-grey accent on the outer hour/minute ring and silver-tone hands. For each, a colorful open-work dial and crown match its brightly colored integrated rubber strap, which is set with a solid double-press deployant closure. Price: $3,500.
Wilbur: LEO
The Wilbur LEO may be round and sit on the wrist like a traditional watch, but its sculptural, multi-part titanium case does not enclose traditional hour, minute and seconds hands. The U.S.-built LEO instead displays the time in an unusual manner on a dial that looks like a satellite tumbling its way around Earth’s orbit. At the center of this 48.5mm by 46mm titanium puzzle the LEO displays the hour prominently – and digitally.
The hour digit that appears in the LEO’s central aperture is actually a mash-up of two otherwise indecipherable symbols that meet once per hour. One clear sapphire disks and another brushed-black sapphire disk rotate twice a day on either side of the hour display. When they meet, those ‘alien’ symbols form the correct hour digit at the dial’s center. Price: $32,500.
Timex: GG S2
This eponymous release, named after Timex Creative Director designer Giorgio Galli, is called the GG(Giorgio Galli) S2, and earlier this year its release took Timex into both a new price point and into Swiss watch world, thanks to its Sellita automatic movement. The black dial with the notched metal ring is subtly elegant. Note the attention to detail on the multi-faceted hour and minute hands.
Galli also made the right choice to eschew the date function on this watch. No-doubt the purity of this design would have been deflated by any distractions on this austere dial.
From the back you’ll note that rather than a threaded case-back Galli opted for a back held in place with six-screws. The GGS2 is water resistant to 50 meters, which is more than sufficient for a dress watch of this type. There is a lot of watch for the money embedded in this design. The Swiss-made watch houses a Sellita SW 200 automatic winding mechanical movement, combines injection molded steel and titanium into the perfectly proportioned 38mm case, and features flat sapphire crystals front and back. Add to that a solid steel deployant buckle and a chemical resistant nitrile rubber strap and you end up with a lot of watch for $975.
TAG Heuer: Carrera Skipper
TAG Heuer revived its Carrera Skipper earlier this year, four decades after the colorful regatta countdown timer disappeared from the watchmaker’s line-up.
Returning as a 39mm steel watch, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper retains its brightly colored dress, sporting a circular-brushed blue primary dial with sub-dials in contrasting teal, green and orange. The new model also features the Carrera’s new bezel-free ‘glassbox’ design with a broader sapphire crystal and curved flange dial, a combination that extends the viewing angle for the dial. A terrific edition to the retro-themed offerings of this Swiss watchmaker. Price: $6,750.
At the end of the year, it’s time to note our favorite 2023 debut watches. Starting today and through the end of the week, we’ll re-acquaint you with a few of our favorite timekeepers of the year.
Starting today, we list our favorite watches in no particular order and from all price ranges.
Bulgari: Aluminum Chronograph
Now measuring a slightly larger 41mm in diameter, Bulgari’s Aluminum Chronograph (which won the GPHG Iconic Watch Prize in 2020) is now available in a version sporting an all-black dial, a black rubber bezel and a black rubber and aluminum bracelet. Price: $4,640.
As an enhanced edition of the famed Porsche Design Chronograph 1 from 1972, this watch retains the original’s pioneering black livery. But instead of the original’s PVD steel case, the new models are forged using a more scratch-resistant titanium carbide case. But the revived watch still enthralls with same matte black dial and 41mm case size as the original.
For this special edition, Porsche Design engraves a ‘7’ on the strap to celebrate the seventh Porsche Rennsport Reunion. Turn the watch over to see more commemorative markings, including a platinum-colored winding rotor in the form of the RS Spyder wheel rim with a colorful Porsche Crest (used exclusively for this edition). The rotor winds the superb COSC-certified Porsche Design caliber WERK 01.140. Price: $12,500 (limited to seventy-five pieces in celebration of 75th anniversary of Porsche.)
Oris: AquisPro 4000m
Not only is this debut the most water-resistant diver’s watch we’ve seen from this independent Swiss manufacturer, but its also the sportiest Oris watch to include Oris Calibre 400, a superior automatic mechanical movement that boasts the aforementioned five-day power reserve, plus strong anti-magnetism and chronometric accuracy.At 49.5mm in diameter, the watch is a wristful, but given its 4,000-meter water resistance rating, thin is out of the question. The watch’s titanium case frames an easy-to-read blue gradient dial with a seaworthy wave pattern. Oris fits a blue ceramic insert with the requisite minutes scale into the unidirectional bezel and caps off the case with a blue rubber strap. Price: $6,200.
Bulova: Oceanographer GMT
This nicely retro-styled model retains the look of the existing Bulova Oceanographer ‘Devil Diver’ models, but with a new GMT hand to account for a second time zone. Look for three models in the new collection. One combines brown and black tones with an IP-plated rose gold tone steel case and bracelet.
A second steel-cased edition features a familiar red and blue GMT design often built into dive watches as well as a matching steel bracelet. The third Bulova Oceanographer GMT model (above) boasts a more monochrome look with a gunmetal IP-plated case and bezel set with a full luminous white dial. Prices: $1,295 (luminous dial and rubber strap) and $1,395 (steel bracelet).
Hublot: Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin
Hublot combined two of our favorite things (coffee and watches) into one green-hued watch when the watchmaker teamed with Nespresso to create an environmentally friendly Big Bang watch made using recycled Nespresso capsules and coffee grounds.
The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is a 42mm limited edition watch with a case, crown, bezel, and pushers made from recycled aluminum. The watch’s caseback and movement container are both made from recycled titanium. In a world first, Hublot and Nespresso have transformed used coffee grounds into watch straps. Price: $24,100.
Grand Seiko: GMT Series
Grand Seiko continues to commemorate the quarter-century anniversary of its excellent Caliber 9S mechanical movement series with a new release of two GMT watches —one sporty model and one dressy edition—each powered by a specific edition of the caliber.
Both watches feature dials that echo the skies over Mt. Iwate, in the Iwate Prefecture in Japan, where Grand Seiko hand-assembles its watches. The sportier edition (the Sport Collection GMT Caliber 9S 25th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGJ275, ) features a first forGrand Seiko: a clear caseback on a mechanical watch with water resistance of 200 meters.
On the front, you’ll see a sapphire blue and white rotating bezel marked to indicate three time zones. Grand Seiko fits its Hi-Beat GMT Caliber 9S86 to power the watch, providing a frequency of 36,000 vph and very stableprecision. The 2,000-piece limited edition is priced at $7,600.
We’ll post more 2023 favorites tomorrow and through the end of this week.