Author

Michael Thompson

Browsing

Accutron adds two models to its Spaceview 2020 collection. The new editions add strap variations to the existing green-dialed model while retaining the watch’s 43.5mm polished stainless-steel case, green transparent open-work dial, clear outer ring, white hands and orange seconds hand.

Now offered on a choice of a matte black or green American alligator strap, the watch continues to flaunt Accutron’s unique elecrostatic-enhanced proprietary movement.

The movement utilizes electrostatic energy as created by rotating twin ‘turbines’ highlighted on the dial. That energy, stored in an accumulator, powers two motors. One is an electrostatic motor to power the seconds hand and the other is a step motor powering the hour and minute hands.

Accutron explains that the movement is accurate to plus or minus five seconds per month.

Accutron cases the openwork movement in a domed double box sapphire crystal and protects the movement with a water resistance rating of 50 meters. 

Price: $3,850.

Louis Vuitton dresses its already impressive in-house flying tourbillon with stunning ‘stained glass’ artisanal enamel to create the new 41mm platinum and white gold Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève“ Plique-à-jour. 

The new 41mm platinum and white gold Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève“ Plique-à-jour.

By pairing a modern flying tourbillon movement developed within the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton workshop with a traditional enameling technique, Louis Vuitton draws attention to its wide-ranging mastery of artistic craftsmanship, which for this model focuses on plique-à-jour, a  technique pioneered by Byzantine artisans in the 4th and 5th centuries.

Essentially, the technique consists of depositing enamel into open cells and allowing it to color the space in a ‘capillary action fill.’

The artisan must apply the enamel in multiple layers and kiln fire it each time in order to achieve the correct transparency that, when completed, echoes a stained glass window. More than 100 hours of artisanal work are required to complete each dial.

The blue hue that dominates the new watch was particularly difficult to create, according to Louis Vuitton, which adds that “many months of research were needed to obtain this blue gradient.

To achieve this, the Maison worked with several master enamelers within its atelier at La Fabrique des Arts.”

The transparent enamel panes are set within a white gold dial created with repeated interlocking Vs (for Vuitton).

This pattern pairs perfectly with the skeletonized LV 104 Caliber, a beautifully finished manual-wind movement also developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. 

Note that the watch’s Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève) certification is visible both on the front of the watch and in border on the caseback.

Echoing the workmanship required to construct the enamel work here, the flying tourbillon movement also requires painstaking watchmaking and design technique. Louis Vuitton explains that more than 120 hours of work are required to assemble all 168 parts of the caliber, which boasts a strong 80-hour power reserve.

Price: Upon request. 

 

Specifications: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon “Poinçon de Genève” Plique-à-jour 

Movement: LV 104 Calibre: mechanical movement with manual winding developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, “Poinçon de Genève” certification, visible on the face and back. Functions: Skeleton flying tourbillon, hours and minutes, V tourbillon cage fully rotating in one minute. Eighty hours of power reserve, 21,600 oscillations per hour.

Case: 41mm by 11.68mm platinum 950 and 18-karat white gold with polished and brushed finishes, anti-reflection sapphire crystal, transparent caseback, water-resistant to 50 meters.

Dial: Handmade plique-à-jour enamel dial crafted within the in-house workshop of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.

Strap: Navy blue calf strap with platinum buckle.

Hermès re-interprets a shawl by artist Tong Ren to create the Arceau Mon Premier Galop, a limited edition 38mm white gold watch with an multi-media artisanal dial made made from enamel, leather marquetry and silk-threads.

The new Hermès Arceau Mon Premier Galop

Multiple skills are on display within this singular hand-crafted dial. The top of the dial depicts the sun and sky, both crafted in enamel.

 

Against the blue background is a horse made of silk threads and finely cut leather measuring a thin 0.5mm thick and set one-by-one.

 

Finally, note the small hand-painted gold mobile applique butterfly and star. 

Hermès is making the Arceau Mon Premier Galop as a 24-piece limited in a white gold case sporting a diamond bezel.

Inside Hermès fits its own H1912 automatic movement adorned with the H motif of the brand on its rotor.  All this hand-wrought beauty is held to the wrist with a matching blue calfskin strap.

Price: $91,530.

Chronoswiss dresses its Delphis jumping hour watch with a stunning new ‘blue sapphire’ guilloché dial to create the Delphis Sapphire, a limited edition of fifty watches.

The new Chronoswiss Delphis Sapphire.

This latest version of one of the Lucerne-based watchmaker’s best-known models focuses the eye the watchmaker’s mastery of artisanal guilloche dials, while also reminding wearers that Chronoswiss has long been a premiere manufacturer of jump hour watches.

Chronoswiss places the larger blue dial underneath the prominent minute hand, with the seconds displayed at the 6 o’clock position within a swirling blue CVD-coated dial. The digital hour display dominates the top of the dial.

All this is placed within a 42mm by 14.5mm, seventeen-part knurled steel case, with the unmistakable Chronoswiss onion crown. Water resistance is to 100 meters.

The case protects the new automatic Chronoswiss manufacture caliber C.6004, developed in collaboration with the caliber makers at La Joux-Perret.

From the back  you’ll see a skeletonized tungsten rotor, ruthenium-plated components and precise Côtes de Genève decoration. 

Price: $16,700.

Bulova adds two new value-priced automatic models to its classic Surveyor collection, a series that offers a contemporary sculpted-edged case.

One of the new 39mm Bulova Surveyor models, available in three dial options.

All sporting a new 39mm case size, one new Surveyor model offers three sunburst-finished dial options: pistachio green, dark green or burgundy.

Bulova fits the two green models on a quick-release brown leather strap or a matching quick-release three-link stainless steel bracelet.

The burgundy dialed Surveyor, with rose-gold-hued markers, hands and crown, is also fit with a quick-release three-link stainless steel bracelet.

All Surveyor models include luminescent minute markers and a magnified date display. Inside Bulova places an automatic movement with date. Prices: $425 to $475.

If you’re in the market for something with a more luxurious feel, Bulova’s newest Surveyor Heartbeat Automatic might tick your boxes.

With a sculpted Surveyor case, the new watch amps up the watch’s higher-end profile with gold-coloring on the case and on the three-link bracelet. Its Heartbeat dial exposes a portion of the automatic movement below, all framed by a radiant sunburst champagne dial. Price: $525.