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At the recent Watches and Wonders 2022 in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre hosted Didier Queloz, Professor of Physics at the University of Cambridge.

Queloz was jointly awarded the 2019 Nobel Prize in physics for his work in furthering the understanding of the universe and is the originator of the rise of ‘exoplanet’ research. His discovery (with his PhD supervisor) in 1995 of a giant planet orbiting another star outside of the solar system kicked off the rise of such research. Queloz assisted Jaeger-LeCoultre as it finalized the scientific accuracy of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Discovery Workshops.

After his interview at a keynote (above) event at Watches and Wonders in Geneva by Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier, Queloz answered some questions posed by International Watch. Here are portions of the interview, along with responses to questions by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

International Watch: Are we gaining a better understanding of the links between astronomical time and how we measure time on Earth?

 

Queloz: I think the astronomical time is not used anymore because it’s not precise enough. The Earth used to be the reference with the 24 hours and then the orbit around the sun. What happened is the Earth is not very stable. There’s a tiny bit of change into the rotation of the Earth because it’s a liquid. There’s not really a solid rigid body.

As soon as we started to realize that we had atomic clocks, the atomic clocks were way more precise to define the time. In the 1960s, people have moved from astronomical time to atomic time. All the time is not defined at all against the astronomy. But of course, for human reasons, we maintain the year, the hours and all these very strange minutes, which is all historical.

In fact, we have a different, very complex system of 24 hours and 60 minutes. It’s all something that is from the past, but we keep it because people get used to it. The society gets used to it.

The new Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Caliber 948.

How has Jaeger-LeCoultre made the measuring of astronomical time a simpler or possibly more interesting prospect for most people?

 

Well, I think what they did here was very, very clever. I think they’re trying to tell a complete story on the watch. What is featured in the watch is very well known, like motions of the moon.

What makes it complicated is to have something small, beautiful and precise in the case of the clock. That is really challenging because you can make a big clock and you have astronomical clocks from the 1960s on top of some buildings and some of them are beautiful and they’re already there and they’re still working but they’re huge. When you must make it in a smaller size, it’s a very complicated process. This is really the challenge.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos Tellurium.

 

Which of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre watches do you prefer to wear, and why?

I enjoy the Reverso. My taste is very classic. I like mechanical watches. I like watches that turn. I like to see time passing. I’m not at all into the digital era; I’m even allergic to digital time. I like the approximate time of watches, of mechanical watches, in the sense that you tell the time on an old-fashioned dial with hours, minutes, etc.

That’s how I like to watch time passing, and I’m also fascinated by the object. Moreover, it’s a beautiful jewelry piece that a man can wear. For me, it’s the only piece I wear apart from my wedding ring…

A Reverso at the Atelier d’Antoine Reverso Discovery Workshop

Jaeger-LeCoultre: What is your profession?

As a physicist, I teach physics, although now I have less and less time to teach. Astrophysics is both my specialty and my favorite field of study. It encompasses a lot of subjects around diversity, which is how we understand planetary systems in the universe in a general sense. In short: planets around other stars.

The question directly related to this issue is the evolution of these planets, and in particular the possibility for some of them to allow life to develop there. Although recent, this is a field I’ve been working in for some years now. I started by finding the planets before defining them. Now I’m setting up experiments, networks and projects to try and prepare for what comes next.

All this involves budget, deadline and constructions problems… Not forgetting preparing the scientific programs. That’s a short summary of the diversity of what I do, which also includes coaching and mentoring. I guide and support students and younger colleagues in their chosen career path. A mixture of coaching and teaching, including a formal course on how planets are formed.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Caliber 945.

 

How do your discoveries and research impact your everyday life?

That’s a big question! There is work that’s personal and general work. I prefer to answer about my work in general because in this context the difficulty lies in the time between discovering a new finding and it being used by society.

Some discoveries are relatively simple. Take, for example, the first transistor. It dates back to the 1950s, but you can see that it in the end it didn’t revolutionize the world. And then, twenty, thirty years later, computers arrive. And this discovery radically changed how society works.

So in fact, there are discoveries that have a direct impact on our lives. The most fundamental discoveries are, of course, those linked to life, those that will allow us to treat people, to prolong life. This is basic knowledge, gained through “simple” curiosity at the start that then will have an impact on society.

A Jaeger-LeCoultre heritage stellar tellurium from the late 1800s.

 

In short, our lives are completely dominated by scientific findings in the general sense of the word, i.e. as a process of gaining knowledge. Astronomy is a little different as it provides general knowledge, some of which will have a philosophical impact. Astronomy’s main contribution is perhaps the realization that, for now, we are very much alone and that everything is very, very far away. And also, that we need to take great care of our planet.

 

Where does your passion for science come from?

I think I was born with it. I was born with an insatiable curiosity that has never been satisfied. Curiosity is generally always there, and it doesn’t just apply to physics. I could have done just about anything as long as it involved acquiring knowledge. In fact, I have a lot of different interests.

My greatest pleasure is turning up in the morning and being able to learn something, to find out what’s going on. I’m absolutely allergic to routine. I only like the unknown. All I want to do is explore new things. That’s what my day-to-day work is like.

The globe as seen in a recent Atmos clock.

What does receiving the Nobel Prize in Physics mean to you?

First of all, as you know it’s the ultimate award of all awards! This prize celebrates the impact of a major discovery that has significantly influenced our society and changed the world. This is why it generally takes a long time. As I was lucky enough to make this discovery at a very young age, I’ve now received a Nobel Prize at a relatively young age, compared to the average age of my colleagues who also receive this prize. It usually takes between 20 and 30 years to receive it, which shows once again the impact of science…

So the question is: what is the point of this prize? In fact, the impact of a fundamental discovery takes a long time to become integrated into common knowledge. Everyone now knows that there are planets around other stars. But 30 years ago, I can assure you, this was not obvious at all. The culture has changed from this point of view, that is to say, in terms of where we are in relation to the universe. To explain how I felt when I received this prize?

I would say that you become a custodian of a very humanist vision. Alfred Nobel was a visionary. You have to realize that at the end of the 19th century, he created an international prize at a time where there were many conflicts over land issues! This means that he created something that nobody had any idea about at the time. It’s hard to see that now because international structures have become so common. Nobel wanted to celebrate science in a universal way, because he considered science to be for the universal good of humanity.

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star.

 

Which astronomical phenomenon fascinates you the most?

The sun. Because the sun is life! The universe itself is very inert. The sun is a magical and formidable machine. It’s the sun that transforms and produces all the elements in your periodic table (Editor’s Note – Mendeleev’s Table). This extraordinary machine brings life, gives birth to the components needed for life, which will then be able to develop on the planets. In my opinion, the sun is the most fascinating object. And we are lucky enough to have one every day. So let’s enjoy the sun while it’s here for another 4 billion years or so. We still have some time, that’s encouraging (laughs).

Up close on the new Master Hybris Artistica Caliber 945.

What is your personal connection with time? Do you live your life in a precise way?

Not at all. This morning, taking the car and arriving on time was a real challenge… I often tend to be late. I have a rather elastic view of time, simply because I don’t see it. I have a strong ability to concentrate, perhaps a little too much. That is to say, I forget time.

I frequently miss appointments and arrive late. Unfortunately, it’s not for lack of thinking about it. Luckily, it’s got much better thanks to alarms! So no, I am not at all reliable in terms of minutes and seconds.

What does watchmaking mean to you?

By its very construction, for me watchmaking represents the art of mechanics. In a way, watchmakers are the artists of mechanics. I find it extraordinary to be able to push mechanization to this point, this technology that, by the way, does not only apply to watches.

Many people nowadays are developing and using this high-precision technology. There are even men and women who have been trained in the watchmaking world and who apply this technology to making mechanical hearts, micro-parts that will be inserted into the human body.

This expertise has seen incredible development in Switzerland. Switzerland is truly one of the greatest centers in the world in this field, I would even say the greatest. There are no better mechanics working in micromechanics than those in Switzerland. It’s in this almost organic way that I feel the watchmaker’s work, unlike in the past, is no longer linked to chronometry itself.

A vintage portable sundial from Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Before, this notion of time and precision was predominant. It still exists of course, because there is quality, expertise and craftsmanship in the work that is being done. But today, in my opinion, time is no longer a watchmaker’s time. It’s now “atomic” time, therefore a physicist’s problem. Time is a problem for atomic clocks, for lasers – which is a completely different story.

But watchmaking keeps the most noble and beautiful aspects of time: the aesthetic part and the technological part of micromechanics. I’m still convinced that aesthetics should not be neglected as it touches on the timeless, the unchanging, the eternal aspect. The Parthenon and many other magnificent sites continue to be visited for their beauty. Quality aesthetics can last a long, long time.

 

What did you think when Jaeger-LeCoultre contacted you? If you could choose one Jaeger-LeCoultre watch, which one would it be?

I really like watches! That’s one of the reasons I accepted your invitation. I’m very happy to come up to the Vallée de Joux and visit your Manufacture. It’s an opportunity to visit Jura, to discover this environment that’s a little out of time, to discuss watchmaking and mechanics.

We will also be able to discuss our common passion for astronomical phenomena and other celestial wonders that the universe holds… So yes, I’m pleased and touched to have been contacted by Jaeger-LeCoultre. If I had to choose one watch? I’ll wait for you to let me discover them. Of course, I like your world famous Reverso very much, but I’m looking forward to see the others.

Do you have any passions outside Astrophysics?

I have too many! Unfortunately, I don’t have the time to devote to them. I like to be outside a lot, to go for walks. It’s a great pleasure to be able to take time for myself. I also enjoy gardening and DIY a lot. I like to do DIY, it’s an activity that takes my mind off things.

A few years ago, I used to fly planes. Unfortunately, I don’t have time to do that anymore and I would really like to start doing this again because it’s an activity I really enjoy. Flying gives me a feeling that I find absolutely extraordinary.

Like all good Swiss people, I also love to ski in the winter. I belong to the generation that was able to come home at noon and have lunch in front of the TV to watch the World Cup runs (laughs).

I was really immersed and grew up in this world of mountains, snow and skiing. I was a member of a ski club, a ski teacher… So it’s an activity that I really enjoy and that I do every winter. Unfortunately, not as much as I would like, but as often as possible. And I love the sun and sea any time of the year.

 

 

Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a terrific world-first complication within the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante that conveys flyback capability to a subtle GMT hand, all powered by a new in-house PF051 caliber with a 48-hour power reserve.

The Parmigiani Fleurier the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante with a world-first flyback complication re-engineered solely for a second time zone display.

As the watchmaker’s Watches and Wonders 2022 highlight, the new watch nicely extends the sartorial approach to dial and case design embodied within the entire Tonda PF collection, which Parmigiani Fleurier debuted last year to much acclaim.

The new complication makes it a simple task to set and read two time zones. With two hour hands initially superimposed, the wearer need only press the pusher at 8 o’clock to advance the upper rhodium-plated gold hand dedicated to local time. Each press moves the hand one hour forward. This action reveals the rose gold hour hand, which displays time in the wearer’s home time. The watch is then set, and both hour hands will convey the time in both locations with no additional intervention.

Once the wearer returns home, he or she simply presses the crown-integrated rose gold push button to instantly ‘fly’ the gold hand back underneath the rhodium-plated hand.

These simple gestures engage a sophisticated flyback mechanism that on most watches operates a chronograph seconds hand, which here does not exist. Instead of timing two separate events, the job of traditional flyback complications, this patented Parmigiani Fleurier invention is employed to clear the dial of its third hand.

This enables an even clearer view of the hand-wrought barleycorn guilloché pattern blue dial framed with a sandblasted minutes track. As with every steel-cased watch within the Tonda PF collection, this GMT is also further framed with a finely knurled single-piece platinum bezel.

For many at Watches and Wonders 2022, this Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante was among the show’s highlights. It is certainly the purest GMT we’ve seen and a welcome display of restraint amid a torrent of grander world-timers and dual-timers displayed across Geneva this week. Price: $26,800.

 

Also new from Parmigiani Fleurier at Watches and Wonders 2022:

Alongside the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Parmigiani Fleurier presented four more novelties. Two, the Tonda PF Skeleton and the Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon, display the same knurled bezel, teardrop-shaped lugs and clean Grain d’Orge guilloché pattern dial. The two others are the sporty Tonda GT Chronograph in Big Date and Annual Calendar in two new appealing new colors.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton, two new 40mm models in rose gold and steel/platinum (above), set with black rubies. Prices: $97,400 (steel with platinum bezel) and $63,300 (rose gold, pictured below).

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon (above), a 40mm platinum-cased model with platinum micro-rotor. Price: $157,000.

 

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph with Big Date adds two dial options: Silver/grey (above) and pomegranate (below). Price: CHF 43,100.

 

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph with Big Date and annual calendar, also with same color options as above. Both are pictured below. Price: CHF 19,400.

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a perpetual calendar to its Polaris series, adding a classical calendar complication to the refined sporty collection. The debut anchors a wide-ranging set of Watches and Wonders 2022 debuts that reference the brand’s “Stellar Odyssey” theme for the year’s new releases.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar, in steel.

Other debuts include a pair of new Atmos models, two impressive grand complications and two glittering additions to the Rendez-Vous collection.

You might recall that in 2018 Jaeger-LeCoultre revived the Polaris name, adding the collection named for the famed Memovox Polaris dive series of 1968.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar, in pink gold.

With the new Polaris Perpetual Calendar, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces Caliber 868AA, a new version of its existing perpetual calendar movement (first seen in 2013), here upgraded to create a retrograde display of Southern Hemisphere moon phases. The update also increases the caliber’s power reserve to a full seventy hours. Fewer power lapses makes any calendar watch is all the more practical.

Jaeger-LeCoultre colors the dial on the 42mm steel or pink gold Polaris Perpetual Calendar in a deep gradient-blue hue to suggest the transition from day to night.

Caliber 868AA powers the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar.

To reference the origins of calendars within astronomical events, Jaeger-LeCoultre places the moon phases here at 6 o’clock, with a retrograde display for the Southern Hemisphere framing the display for its Northern counterpart. New skeleton hands allow greater visibility of the dial displays –and to maintain Polaris design codes.

All the Polaris codes are here, including a glass-box crystal, a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, and a top crown that rotates the inner bezel. The lower crown is for setting the time and winding the watch while calendar settings are adjusted via a single pusher.

Prices: $29,600 (steel) and $44,300 (pink gold).

 

Specifications : Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar

Case: 42mm x 11.97mm steel or pink gold.

Movement: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with moon phases in two hemispheres and red security zone, inner rotating bezel. Power reserve is 70 hours, water resistance to 100 meters.

Dial: Lacquered blue gradient.

Strap: Ref. Q9088480 (steel) interchangeable steel bracelet and rubber strap.

Ref. Q9082480 (pink gold) interchangeable rubber strap and alligator leather strap.

 

Additional Highlights from Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches and Wonders 2022

Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia in pink gold (above) and Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Atomium in white gold. Each offered in a limited edition of five pieces. Prices: $535,000 (white gold) and $515,000 (pink gold).

The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948, with universal flying tourbillon, world-time display with 24-hour indication. A limited edition of twenty. Price: $227,000.

The new Atmos Tellurium with Zodiac calendar (above). A limited edition of ten pieces: Price: $570,000.

The Atmos Infinite, with the ‘almost-perpetual’ Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 570 (above). Price: $15,100.

Two additions to the Rendez-Vous collection call Rendez-Vous Star and Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star (pictured above).  In pink gold or white gold, the 36mm diamond-set watch hosts a unique complication in which a diamond-set ‘shooting star’ moves across the top of the dial at random moments during the day, typically four to six times per hour. The shooting star can also be activated on demand with several turns of the crown. Prices: $75,500 (Dazzling Star only).

Montblanc has long taken full advantage of the inherent beauty of its historic Minerva caliber MB 16.29 monopusher chronograph, displaying the movement’s fluidly interconnected bridges, plates and gears to great advantage through the back of multiple limited edition watches.

The new Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph.

With the new 1858 Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph, a 2022 debut highlight offered in a steel and a ‘lime’ gold case, Montblanc flips the movement over to display all its eye-catching curves and finishes directly on the dial side of the watch.

What might appear to be a skeletonized movement is actually the side of the caliber Montblanc has typically framed for the viewer in recent debuts via a clear sapphire caseback.

In order to reverse the caliber, Montblanc added twenty-one components while retaining the caliber’s familiar Minerva arrow and the V- shaped bridge. All the German silver components are intensely polished using Montblanc’s own special snailed diamantage coquille motif and methods. And echoing vintage movement design on display, Montblanc re-introduces a fluted bezel first seen in 1927 to frame the reversed caliber.

Montblanc fits both 1858 Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph models with an engraved caseback with an image of the firm’s Villeret manufacture and the v-shaped mountains in the background.

The Caliber MB M16.29 inside the new Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Secret watch.

Montblanc will issue two limited editions of eighteen and fifty-eight pieces, in Lime Gold and stainless steel respectively. The Lime Gold version comes with green hands and numerals and is attached to the wrist with a green alligator leather strap with grey stitching. The stainless-steel edition, with its white gold fluted bezel, comes with a blue alligator leather strap with blue stitching. Prices: $33,500 (steel) and $48,000 (lime gold).

 

Also new for Montblanc, as seen at Watches & Wonders 2022:

 

The Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow, a 42mm steel-cased column-wheel chronograph (with Caliber MB M13.21), a limited edition of 88.   Price: $30,500.

The Montblanc 1858 GMT Automatic Date (above), a 42mm two-time-zone model. Price: Starting at $3,515 and up to $4,100 for model with personalized caseback.

The Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date (above), a steel Montblanc dive model (the brand’s first) with special glacier-effect dial in green, black or blue. Stunning dial. Prices: $2,975 to $3,190.

The Montblanc 1958 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen, a Zero Oxygen 44mm titanium adventure watch. Price: $8,600, limited to 290 pieces.

 

We’ll show you more about these debuts in future posts.

Chopard adds the first complication to its Alpine Eagle collection with the new Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon, the watchmaker’s highlight debut from Watches & Wonders 2022.

The 41mm steel watch, with a high-frequency (25,200 vph) flying tourbillon, also dips the sporty Alpine Eagle collection into the luxury category, as it is Chopard’s first complication watch bearing the Geneva Seal quality hallmark.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon, new at Watches & Wonders 2022.

Chopard builds the watch’s flying tourbillon without an upper bridge, which gives the regulating component its ‘flying’ moniker. That transparency in this L.U.C 96.24-L movement is based on the development of Chopard Manufacture’s first caliber (L.U.C 96.01-L from 1997). Like that caliber, the new movement also thin, measuring 3.3mm.

Thanks to this internal thinness, Chopard also built a thinner case than is typically found within the Alpine Eagle collection. The case on his new model measures 8mm thick, with a thinner bezel and lug set when compared to a classic Alpine Eagle Large model.

Chopard also equipped this new movement with a stop-seconds function that is backed up with a chronometer certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute. (Note the “Chronometer” inscription on the dial below the logo.)

This double certification (COSC and Geneva Seal) places the Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon alone on the market (according to Chopard) as the only flying tourbillon watch receive both certifications.

The impressive new Chopard caliber L.U.C 96.24-L earns Geneva Seal and COSC certifications.

The Chopard L.U.C caliber, like so many of Chopard’s excellent in-house movements, offers a much-welcomed long power reserve of sixty-five hours thanks to its two stacked barrels based on Chopard Twin technology.

While Chopard has embedded unique characteristics into the new watch, the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon still echoes all the Alpine Eagle collection’s overall profile, including a round case with stylized sides, a crown engraved with the compass rose, a bezel with eight functional screws set at a tangent, a stamped dial featuring a deep color (here textured blue on a gold base), luminescent indications, and a proprietary Lucent Steel A233 bracelet and case.

Price: Upon request.

Also new from Chopard at Watches & Wonders 2022

The Chopard Happy Sport Chrono, a 40mm COSC-certified automatic chronograph with an ethical 18-karat rose gold case, and gold dial hosting seven ‘dancing’ diamonds. Price: $28,600.

The Chopard Happy Sport 33 mm, an ethical rose gold (case and bracelet) three-hand watch with five ‘dancing’ diamonds spinning around its gilded satin-brushed dial. Price: $29,700.