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Greubel Forsey debuts a new twist to its convex case series with the new Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture.

The new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture.

Unlike existing watches in the ‘Convexe’ series, this new model features a case that, in addition to its convex curve, also widens as it reaches the wrist. Thus, with a diameter around the caseback (47.05mm) that is wider than the bezel (45mm), it fully exhibits the impressive movement inside while also appearing smaller than it actually is.

Known as a ‘conical frustrum’ in geometry, the unusual case shape, especially with its side-case clear sapphire windows, creates a broad showcase for Greubel Forsey’s exceptional Tourbillon 24 Secondes movement.

On the wrist the titanium watch is comfortable and endlessly fascinating, especially given the ability to admire the movement’s highly polished moving parts directly through the case sides.

Polished titanium bridges immediately stand out from the frosted finish of the mainplate.

From the top the wearer sees the relief-engraved Greubel Forsey text “Architecture, Harmonie, Innovation, Technique, Bienfacture, Passion, Science, Exclusivité, Créativité” just inside the convex bezel. The new, contemporary font seems to announce a new era in case making for the newly independent watchmaker, which spent years perfecting this new design.

Light enters the case from all sides and creates shadows and reflections that only enhance the appearance of depth.

Superb chronometry

But within that bezel, when peering in from all sides, the viewer sees all the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture components seemingly suspended within what may be the watchmaker’s deepest case, which measures 16.8mm from top to bottom. (The recent convex-cased Balancier S measures 13.75mm deep, in comparison.)

With the new case, light enters the case from all sides and creates shadows and reflections that only enhance the appearance of depth within.

The back view displays a contemporary finish and layout.

The watch’s showpiece Tourbillon 24 Secondes takes center stage at the 6 o’clock location. With its inclined escapement and fast rotational speed, it demonstrates superb chronometric performance.

Visible from multiple sides of the case, the inclined escapement and the other primary components (the power reserve indicator and the decorated coaxial-series barrel) are each attached to highly polished titanium bridges.

The watch’s side-case clear sapphire windows create a broad showcase for the movement.

Greubel Forsey has equipped one of those barrels with a slipping spring to avoid excess tension. The barrel provides ninety hours of power reserve, which is indicated by a moving red triangle over a conical disk at 3 o’clock.

Greubel Forsey will make only eleven Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture watches in 2022, followed by eighteen pieces a year between 2023 and 2025 for a total of sixty-five timepieces overall.

Price: $500,000.

Specifications: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

Movement: Time-only manual-wind with small seconds, 24-seconds tourbillon inclined at a 25° angle, light alloy cage pillars
, titanium cage bridges, gold counterweight, domed jewels in gold chatons, 21,600 vph. Ninety hours of power reserve.

Case: 47.05mm (case band) and 45.00mm (bezel) by 16.80mm titanium and synthetic sapphire crystal, three-dimensional, variable geometry bezel with raised engraved text, raised engraving “Architecture 1” and “Greubel Forsey”, water resistant to fifty meters.

Dial: Three-dimensional, variable geometry hour-ring, indexes with Super-LumiNova, power-reserve indicator, circular-grained, engraved and lacquered, gold small second indicator, circular-grained, polished flank, 24-seconds tourbillon rotation indicator.

Strap: Non-animal material, rubber with text in relief, titanium folding clasp, engraved GF logo.

Price: $500,000.

 

Multi-disciplinary artist Samuel Ross teams with Hublot to create the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, a stylized, hexagonal 44mm watch with titanium honeycomb mesh featured on its sapphire dial, case, case back and strap.

The new Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross.

The debut is the Hublot ambassador’s first wristwatch built with the Swiss watchmaker, which has teamed with artists for more than a decade under its “Hublot Loves Art” initiative.

Hublot has worked with Ross previously, though not for a watch, when the watchmaker awarded Ross its Hublot Design Prize in 2019 as the artist unveiled a multi-material ‘fused’ sculpture designed to celebrate Hublot’s fortieth anniversary.

On the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, the 30-year-old artist combines his signature use of color and geometry to make this lightweight, sporty tourbillon-regulated time-only watch. The watch’s multi-level sapphire and titanium dial is both eye-catching and technically impressive; its honeycomb caseback (below) delightfully mixes geometry and gearing.

Hublot explains that Ross opted for an orange color scheme to represent “energy and optimism” and has directed the color for the strap and accents on the crown and tourbillon bridge and lateral bumpers that protect the case. The bright color frames a grey, satin-finished case and bezel.

Inside Hublot sets its manufacture HUB6035 caliber (see specifications below) that offers an impressive seventy-two hours of power reserve. Hublot will make fifty Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross watches.

Hublot is celebrating the debut by enveloping its Fifth Avenue boutique in New York City in orange. The ‘takeover’ will then be repeated in Hublot stores globally as the watch reaches showcases.

Price: $116,000.

Hublot Ambassador Samuel Ross, wearing the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross.

Specifications: Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

(Ref. 428.NX.0100.RX.SRA22)

Case: 44mm by 13.75mm satin-polished titanium with satin-finished case back and bezel. Water resistant to 30 meters.

Movement: Caliber HUB6035 with self-winding micro-rotor, skeleton tourbillon, frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vph) and 72-hour power reserve.

Dial: Skeletonized with honeycomb pattern titanium, three sapphire bridges.

Strap: Orange rubber with titanium deployant buckle.

Price: $116,000.

 

Hublot extends its already wide-ranging collection of ceramic-cased watches with its first minute repeater entirely cased in the high-tech material. The new Big Bang Integral Minute Repeater Ceramic, a 43mm model in white or black ceramic, joins the firm’s Integral Ceramic collection, which debuted in 2020.

The new Hublot Big Bang Integral Minute Repeater Ceramic, made in black or white ceramic.

Beyond its in-house distinction, the new Big Bang Integral Minute Repeater Ceramic is also the first watch of its kind (a tourbillon minute repeater) made by any watchmaker that has been cased entirely in ceramic, according to Hublot.

Like its brethren in the Integral Ceramic collection, the new watch is made with an all-ceramic case (here at 43mm) and with an integrated all-ceramic bracelet, bezel and case back. And the new watch also is Hublot’s first model regulated by a tourbillon within the collection.

Inside Hublot fits its own existing manual-wind MHUB801 caliber with eighty hours of power reserve. The watchmaker will make eighteen watches in black ceramic and eighteen in white ceramic.

Hublot has placed minute repeating movements into numerous watches in the past, sometimes also paired with a tourbillon. You might recall that in 2014, Hublot received a Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) for its Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute Repeater.

Price: $295,000.

 

Specifications: Hublot Big Bang Integral Minute Repeater Ceramic

References: Black Ceramic (458.CX.1170.CX.YOS, 18 pieces) and White Ceramic (458.HX.1170.HX.YOS, 18 pieces).

Dial: Black matte: Rhodium-plated satin appliques with black SuperLuminova or Grey matte: Rhodium- plated satin appliques with white SuperLuminova. Satin-finished and polished white or black ceramic bezel.

Case: Black or white 43mm by 14.15mm satin-finished and polished ceramic. Water resistance to 30 meters.

Movement: Hublot MHUB8001.H1.RH Caliber Hublot Tourbillon with manual winding cathedral minute repeater, frequency: 21,600 vph, power reserve of approximately 80 hours.

Bracelet: Satin-finished and polished black or white ceramic with titanium folding clasp.

Price: $295,000

 

 

MB&F has joined forces with Bulgari to create the new Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra, a dramatic colored-gem-set iteration of the LM FlyingT, MB&F’s first venture into feminine-focused design.

You may recall that the LM FlyingT was quite a success upon its launch in 2019. Customers clamored for it, and the industry awarded it the prize for Best Ladies’ Complication at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The 39.5mm by 20mm watch displays hours and minutes on a 50° vertically tilted dial with two serpentine hands regulated by a dramatically raised flying tourbillon at the center.

Just last year MB&F added a limited edition guilloché-dialed LM FlyingT series cased in red gold and platinum. More recently, the watchmaker launched an eye-catching Lapis Lazuli LM FlyingT model. MB&F noted at the time that it expected to announce at least one new gemstone-set edition annually.

The new MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra, here in a pink gold case.

For the newest edition, the MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra, Bulgari’s well-established gemstone expertise merges with the LM FlyingT’s existing diamond-set dial plate to create a terrific counterbalance the technical center of the dial.

Prominent single stones of tourmaline, tsavorite, diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and topaz flank the watch’s diamond-set flying tourbillon and the balance at the center.

Bulgari opts for a cabochon cut for each stone, a choice that not only makes the stones all the more prominent above the dial, but that also perfectly matches the FlyingT Allegra’s round case.

On the back of the watch MB&F again creates a sun-shaped oscillating weight with gold rays rotating on a ruthenium disc above a platinum counterweight.

The caseback reveals the sun-shaped oscillating weight.

MB&F will offer twenty MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra watches, cased in either pink gold or white gold. Each is set with fully diamond-set dial plates and adorned with Bulgari’s fine gemstones. Price: $185,000.

 

Specifications: MB&F x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra

Movement: FlyingT featuring three-dimensional vertical architecture, automatic winding, conceived and developed in-house, central flying 60-second tourbillon, balance frequency of 18,000 (2.5 Hz), power reserve of 100 hours, three-dimensional sun winding rotor in 18k 5N+ red gold, titanium and platinum.

Dial: Hours and minutes displayed on a 50° vertically tilted dial with two serpentine hands. White gold version set with diamonds, tsavorite, topaz, amethyst, tanzanite and tourmaline. Pink gold version set with diamonds, tsavorite, tourmaline, tanzanite, amethyst and rubellite.

Case: 39mm x 20mm white gold or pink gold, set with diamonds. High domed sapphire crystal on top with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal on back. Two crowns: winding on left and time-setting on right. Water resistance to 30 meters.

Strap: Alligator leather strap with white or pink gold pin buckle matching the case.

Price: $185,000.

Frederique Constant adds a tourbillon to its perpetual calendar to create the new Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, a handsome 41mm complication available in a steel case or a rose gold case. And to underscore the Geneva-based watchmaker’s long-held mission to offer affordably priced fine Swiss watches, the steel model is priced just under $23,000.

The new Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, in steel.

For years Frederique Constant’s complicated watches, such as its flyback chronograph, in-house perpetual calendar and its manufacture tourbillon, have attracted collectors in search of affordably priced, classically styled Swiss watchmaking. Few (if any) Swiss in-house manufacturing watchmakers can boast a collection with a comparable set of complicated watches at the same price levels.

The new Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, with gold case.

The new Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture combines the brand’s existing know-how as found in its own manufacture tourbillon and stand-alone perpetual calendar. The new watch displays the date, day and month in three subdials along the top of the dial, echoing the existing Highlife Perpetual Calendar.

Frederique Constant replaces that model’s moonphase indicator with its manufacture tourbillon at the subdial located at 6 o’clock. I especially like the subdial at 12 o’clock that displays the month with the large hand and the leap year indication with a smaller hand. To balance this somewhat top-heavy design, Frederique Constant deftly places its own tourbillon with silicon escapement (the escape wheel and the lever) to add symmetry to the dial. The tourbillon displays seconds with its central hand.

Frederique Constant offers two blue-accented versions of the new watch, one more luxurious in a rose gold case and the other framed in steel. Both allow the wearer to enjoy a view into the FC-975 Manufacture caliber and its blued screws, perlage and Côtes de Genève finishes. If you look closer at the dial on either watch, you’ll see another nicely executed design detail: anti-reflective recessed perpetual calendar displays that ensure a quicker, more enjoyable read.

Frederique Constant notes that it offers collectors options to customize the individually numbered steel and rose gold editions of the new watch. Each one comes with two interchangeable straps. The rose gold version comes with a topstitched alligator leather strap and a second rubber strap. The same rubber strap also comes with the steel watch, which arrives on a bracelet with a three-link design and a folding buckle.

Prices: $39,995 (rose gold case) and $22,995 (steel case and bracelet).

 

Specifications: Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

(Steel-cased model, reference FC-975N4NH6B, limited to 88 pieces)

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year.

Movement: FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph, silicon escapement wheel and anchor.

Case: 41mm by 12.65mm brushed and polished stainless steel 3-part. Front convex sapphire crystal, see-through case back, water-resistant to 30 meters.

Dial: Skeleton with
Navy blue outer ring with white printed second markers.
Hand-polished silvered color with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands.
Navy blue day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand. Navy blue month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hands.
Navy blue date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color hand. Open tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished silvered color second hand.

Strap: Brushed and polished stainless steel 3-link bracelet including an additional navy blue rubber strap.

Price: $22,995

 

Specifications: Frederique Constant Highlife Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

(Rose gold edition, reference FC-975N4NH9, limited to 30 pieces)

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, month, leap year.

Movement: FC-975 caliber, automatic, tourbillon, perpetual calendar perlage, drafted marks and Côtes de Genève decorations, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph, silicon escapement wheel and anchor.

Case: 41mm by 12.65mm brushed and polished rose gold three-part. Front convex sapphire crystal, see-through case back, water-resistant to 30 meters.

Dial: Skeleton with Navy blue outer ring with white printed second markers.
Hand-polished rose gold-plated with white luminous treatment hour and minute hands.
Navy blue day counter at 9 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hand. Navy blue month and year counter at 12 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hands. Navy blue date counter at 3 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated hand. Open tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock with hand-polished rose gold-plated seconds hand.

Strap: Navy blue alligator leather strap with nubuck finishing including an additional navy blue rubber strap

Price: $39,995