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Ulysse Nardin Celebrates World Oceans Day 

Ulysse Nardin refreshes two of its dive models with eye-catching azure blue dial markers and matching blue rubber straps to mark World Oceans Day (June 8).

The new Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure.

One model, the Diver Net Azure, adds the sparkling blue color to the watchmaker’s existing environmentally friendly Diver series. This latest model in the collection (which also includes the Ocean Race diver) utilizes recycled materials within its case, which is made from Carbonium (with a 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon composites), Nylo (recycled polyamide from fishing nets) and 95% recycled steel.

The watchmaker reports that the new model represents a greater use of recycled steel than the first Diver Net concept model in 2020, which contained 80% recycled steel. 

The watch remains water-resistant to 300 meters and exhibits its blue hue on the dial’s X accent, the dial markers, the bezel markers and its rubber strap.

Ulysse Nardin fits the watch with its automatic UN-118 movement (above), fitted with a silicon balance spring and a DiamonSil escapement wheel and anchor. Price: $12,600.

The new Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Azure.

The Diver X Skeleton Azure is a more complex dive watch. As the latest model within the watchmaker’s Diver X Skeleton collection, the skeletonized watch exposes its UN-372 Manufacture caliber, a top-tier in-house automatic movement Ulysse Nardin outfits with an extra-large oscillator and a silicon escapement wheel, anchor and balance-spring.

The movement is exposed within a 44mm titanium DLC case, which is water-resistant to 200 meters. Its components are visible underneath a dramatic black and azure blue X-shaped bridge. Lightweight Carbonium tops the barrel cover at the 12 o’clock position and covers the unidirectional rotating bezel. Price: $26,400.

Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-372.

 (See below for full technical specifications for both new watches). 

Specifications: Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Azure

(Ref. 1183-170-2B/3A)

Movement: UN-118 Manufacture caliber, automatic movement displaying
hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power reserve indicator.  Silicon balance-spring, DiamonSil escapement wheel and anchor. Frequency 4Hz (28,800 vph). 

Case: 44mm by 14.81 mm with central case, bezel, case back and movement mount in 95% recycled stainless steel. Side case and case back ring: 60% Nylo recycled fishing nets and 40% Carbonium up-cycled carbon fiber from the aeronautic industry. Open sapphire crystal case back. Concave unidirectional rotating bezel in 100% upcycled Carbonium with domed sapphire crystal.  Water resistance to 300 meters. 

Dial: Sandblasted black with an embossed and satin X Power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, date and small seconds at 6 o’clock, hour-markers and hands with Super-LumiNova. 

Strap: Azure-colored rubber with black “Ulysse Nardin” ceramic element at 6 o’clock
Black ceramic pin buckle.

Price: $12,600.

 

Specifications: Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton Azure

(Ref. 3723-170-2B/3A) 

Movement: UN-372 Manufacture caliber, self-winding skeleton movement
Hours, minutes, seconds. Oversized silicon balance wheel, silicon escapement wheel, anchor and balance-spring. Frequency 3Hz (21,600 vph). 

Case: Polished and satin finished 44mm by 15.7mm black DLC titanium case,
concave unidirectional rotating bezel in Carbonium with domed sapphire crystal,
open sapphire crystal caseback in black DLC titanium. Water resistant to 200 meters.

Dial: X-shaped skeleton dial in polished and satin-finished black PVD Carbonium barrel cover, black hour-markers and hands with Super-LumiNova. 

Strap: Azure-colored rubber strap with black “Ulysse Nardin” ceramic element at 6 o’clock, compatible with R-STRAP, folding clasp in black ceramic and black PVD titanium. 

Price: $26,400 

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The Watches

TAG Heuer Launches Skeleton-Dial Monaco Trio  

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Chronograph extends TAG Heuer’s partnership with the Monaco Grand Prix while adding a contemporary titanium-cased model to its classic square chronograph series.

The Racing Red edition of the new TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Chronograph.
The TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Chronograph Turquoise edition with blackened dial and case.

The new models feature contemporary titanium cases, still sized classically at 39mm by 47.4mm, creating a lighter option to the Monaco’s traditionally steel case.

TAG Heuer accents the rotor of the Heuer 02 chronograph movement with an engraved oscillating mass, always visible through the sapphire case back.
The Blue version, echoing the colors of the original Monaco.

And within the new case TAG Heuer opens up the dial to expose the excellent in-house Heuer 02 chronograph, creating the first skeletonized dial for a serialized, unlimited Monaco model (not including the unusual Monaco V4).

TAG Heuer launches three versions of the new Monaco Skeleton Chronograph, each glowing with a different dial, rotor and column-wheel accent colors (blue, red and turquoise) chosen to draw historical connections to earlier Monaco watches.

The blue model, which TAG Heuer calls Original Blue, echoes the debut Heuer Monaco blue dial, with blue and red dial colors, a blue column wheel and rotor. These blue tints are pay homage to the original Heuer Monaco from 1969.

The red option, called Racing Red, references racing sparks, with black and silver accents on the dial and a red column wheel and oscillating mass.

The Turquoise piece is a nod to the coast of Monaco, mixing a red-accented dial with a turquoise subdials, column wheel and rotor. This model also differs from the other two with its black DLC-coated titanium case and a sandblasted black skeletonized dial.

To extend the contemporary feel of the new series, TAG Heuer adds a healthy amount of SuperLuminova on the dial’s carved indexes, hands and —in another Monaco debut — on the date window.

Similarly, modern bi-material straps, which meld rubber and leather and offered in blue or black, are attached to each TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Chronograph.

Prices:  $10,750 and $11,250 (Turquoise edition with blackened titanium case)

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The Watches

Introducing Edouard Koehn: Contemporary Chronographs and an Alarming World Timer

The newly revived Swiss watch brand Edouard Koehn is now being distributed in North America by the New Jersey-based Totally Worth It, which also distributes Ressence, Trilobe, Scatola del Tempo and Swiss Kubik.

The Edouard Koehn Tempus I, skeleton model in a 43mm steel case with black PVD coating and black ceramic bezel.

Named for master watchmaker Edouard Koehn, who in 1891 developed his eponymous watch brand in Geneva after decades at Patek Philippe, the new Edouard Koehn Master Watchmaker Manufacture is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds and offers three watch collections: Tempus I, Tempus II and World Heritage.

A Tempus I model, with blue Clous de Paris dial.

The Chronographs 

The two Tempus collections feature contemporary automatic chronographs with movements developed by Edouard Koehn in collaboration with famed Swiss movement maker Concepto. Tempus I is a sporty tri-compax chronograph in a PVD blackened steel case with a black ceramic bezel, offered in four dial colors and two skeleton versions.

One example of the Edouard Koehn Tempus II Monopusher self-winding mechanical Chronograph.

Tempus II is a Bi-Compax mono-pusher chronograph, and is much more ambitious, with a technical design that exposes an inverted escapement at the top of each dial.

This  “Open Heart” design, also framed by a black ceramic bezel, displays chronograph time via a central seconds hand and a large thirty-minutes chronograph subdial at the 3 o’clock position. Four dial colors are available.

Back view of Tempus II, showing back of the automatic monopusher chronograph caliber.

Prices: $7,950 (Tempus I) and $9,950 (Tempus II)

The Edouard Koehn World Heritage combines a world time function with an alarm function.

World Heritage

As the most traditional series in the Edouard Koehn collection, the World Heritage model is nonetheless technically challenging. The watch, built using a Concepto base caliber modified for Edouard Koehn, includes an alarm function, combining two complications highly useful to travelers.

While the world time function allows the wearer to see the world time in any of twenty-four time zones, the alarm function allows the wearer to set an alert that, for instance, might note an upcoming flight time. The double barrel EK-MVTWTA01 caliber simultaneously winds the watch and the alarm functions.

Edouard Koehn offers these World Heritage models as limited editions, with each of five dial options available in editions of eighty-eight pieces.

At 42mm in diameter, these World Heritage models are somewhat smaller than the chronographs. They are lighter too, cased in titanium rather than steel. All told, this makes for a lightweight watch with heavyweight technical functions.

Price: $8,950. 

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American Brands

A Watch Pro Launches ProTek

By Gary Girdvainis 

While Barry Cohen may not be a household name for most watch consumers, I can almost guarantee you know his work.

As the founder of Luminox back in 1989,  Cohen established a brand that deftly integrated the ethos of the brand directly into the name:  “Lumi” stood for illumination and “Nox” for night so the brand name meant it had superior night lume thanks to its self-illuminating tritium gas tubes.

Cohen sold the brand he founded for a variety of reasons. He returned with a new brand that would take the next logical steps in the design of a rugged sports watch that would not only look great – but would also make a strong value argument.

A model in the ProTek Dive Series. All sport a 42mm carbon composite case.

Enter ProTek

Priced aggressively from $450 to $525, ProTek watches are available in stainless steel, carbon composite, and surgical grade titanium cases, and all of them feature self-illuminating tritium tubes.

A new ProTek Official USMC Series model, with a 42mm carbon composite case.

ProTek offers several dive watch variations that sport carbon composite or steel cases.  

The Field Watch 

Featured here, the 3000 Series Field watch is crafted in a slim (11mm), lightweight titanium case weighing only 48 grams in either a natural or black IP version.

One model in the ProTek 3000 Series of field watches. Each features a 40mm titanium case.

All are capped with a flat sapphire crystal over a dial and hands enhanced with 3 colors of T-100 self-illuminating tubes.

These are the brightest self-illuminating tubes available and will emit their own radiance for up to twenty-five years without the need for exposure to external light to perform.

Rated and tested to a legitimate 100 meters of water resistance, the ProTek Series 3000 field watch can also be a casual-use water watch and is delivered with a waterproof Italian leather strap.

Clean dials in black, admiral blue, olive green and a silvery off-white are all easy to read. With a light weight of just over 48 grams (head-only), the watches are very comfortable on the wrist for extended use.

The threaded (screw-down) back is also crafted in titanium with a stylized “P” presented in deep relief, as it is on the double-gasket crown.

Inside the case is a Citizen/Miyota quartz movement with a four-year battery accurate to +/- 20 seconds per month. Retail price is $475 at www.watchgauge.com. 

 

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The Watches

Ulysse Nardin Launches Ocean Race Diver Chronograph 

This weekend, Ulysse Nardin unveiled its latest dive watch, the Ocean Race Diver Chronograph, as the watchmaker joined the six-month-long Ocean Race during a stopover in Newport, Rhode Island.

The new Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph.

Ulysse Nardin launched the limited-edition watch in collaboration with The Ocean Race in part to celebrate the historic race’s fiftieth anniversary. In addition, the watch pays tribute to both partners’ commitment to protecting the oceans.

The Ocean Race, which was first launched in 1973 from Portsmouth, England, was originally known as the Whitbread Round the World Race, then The Volvo Ocean Race. The global competition is now known as The Ocean Race.

Water-resistant to 300 meters, the Ocean Race Diver Chronograph’s 44mm sandblasted black DLC titanium case houses the superb in-house chronograph caliber UN-150, which is visible through the sapphire crystal case back and bears the number ‘50’ in tribute to this race’s anniversary.

Ulysse Nardin has also placed the Ocean Race logo to the ceramic component on the rubber strap’s pin buckle. (See additional technical specifications below).

Recycled finish 

Referencing Ulysse Nardin’s eco-friendly aims, the watchmaker created the watch’s unidirectional bezel with a Carbonium finish, which contains fibers recycled from airplane fuselage offcuts.

As the Official Timekeeper of the race, Ulysse Nardin is responsible for the official timings of the various legs and the start countdowns, but it is also a partner of the 24-Hour Speed Challenge, in which the crew that covers the greatest distance in 24 hours wins. 

In addition to this role as Official Timer, Ulysse Nardin is also a partner of Time to Act, a program that aims to reduce the devastating impact of pollution, climate change, and industrial overfishing on our oceans.

As part of this program, and alongside the Racing with Purpose and 11th Hour Racing organizations, The Ocean Race is undertaking a sustainability program. During the race, the teams will gather data on the impact of climate change and plastic pollution. Ulysse Nardin notes that the initiative will result in “the most data ever collected as part of a sporting event.”  

The Ocean Race crews sail from Newport on May 21, continuing to Aarhus (Denmark), the Kiel Fly-By (Germany) and The Hague (Netherlands) before the grand finale, which is set to take place in Genoa (Italy) at the end of June. 

Ulysse Nardin will offer the Ocean Race Diver Chronograph as a limited edition of 100 timepieces. Price: $15,700. 

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Specifications: Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph  

(Ref. 1503-170LE-2A-TOR/3A)

Movement: Calibre UN-150 self-winding Manufacture Chronograph, silicon escape wheel, anchor and balance-spring. Frequency: 4 Hz / oscillating at 28,800 vph.

Dial: Sandblasted black, 30-minutes counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hours counter and date at 6 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock. Rhodium-plated indexes and hands with Super-LumiNova. 

Case: 44mm sandblasted and satin-finished black DLC titanium, Carbonium concave unidirectional rotating bezel with domed sapphire crystal, black DLC titanium open sapphire case back, ‘50’ logo in tribute to the 50th anniversary of The Ocean Race, 300 meters of water resistance. 

Strap: Black rubber strap with black ceramic element at 6 o’clock, engraved with The Ocean Race logo, black ceramic pin buckle. 

Price: $15,700. 

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