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The Watches

Bucherer Adds a Trio to Blue Series

Bucherer adds watches from Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie and L’Epée to its Bucherer Blue series of customized, limited edition models.

All are finished in the Bucherer Blue color, meant to reflect its place in the watch retailer’s collection of custom-made, similarly hued watches made in partnership with a wide range of Swiss watchmakers. Each watch will be available as a limited edition of eighteen pieces.

The new Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue.

Girard-Perregaux

The new Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue builds on this watchmakers’s Neo series, a contemporary version of its famed Tourbillon with Three Bridges.

The watch is cased in titanium and features a trio of blued bridges also made from titanium. The three bridges not only support the geartrain, barrel and tourbillon, but also act as the mainplate. This design creates the impression that the bridges are floating.

Girard-Perregaux fits the 44mm case between two sapphire crystal glass boxes, which enhances the transparency – and the modernity – of the piece. Price: $167,000.

The H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue.

H. Moser & Cie. 

Independent watchmaker H. Moser sets its Deco-styled Streamliner Tourbillon with sixty baguette-cut blue sapphires (2.90 carats), apparently the first gemstone setting for this award-winning series.

Fit with the superb HMC 804 caliber, which features a flying tourbillon with double hairspring and a three-day power reserve, the watch also features a Moser fumé dial, set within the Streamliner’s 40mm steel case with integrated steel bracelet with articulated links.

The watch is the first Streamliner limited edition H. Moser has created for a partner. Price: $119,000.

The new L’Epée Time Fast Bucherer Blue.

L’Epée 1839 

The new L’Epée Time Fast Bucherer Blue combines the independent Swiss clockmaker’s existing Time Fast series with Bucherer’s blue hue. L’Epée’s design is meant to evoke memories of a 1950s-era single-seater race car.

Under the hood L’Epee builds a tiered movement with an eight-day power reserve shaped to the bodywork.

The user winds the 15-inch-long clock the same way a mechanical motor is wound in a pull-back toy car. The hours and minutes are displayed on the side through an aperture resembling a typical competition number, via two engraved stainless steel disks. Price: $34,000. 

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Titanium U-Boat Capsoil Stands Out

All U-Boat watches can be can be recognized from a distance. All the creations, conceived and designed by Italo Fontana, stand out thanks to their large crown on the left-hand side of the case. The brand is proud of its “Made in Tuscany” factor. And each watch, powered by a Swiss movement, is created and assembled by the craftsmen at the Lucca headquarters.

 

The Capsoil Titanio DLC is cased in blackened titanium.

Among U-Boat’s best-known designs is its Capsoil collection, which features a movement immersed in oil to amplify the dial. A compensation bubble, which floats freely under the high-quality domed sapphire crystal, then allows the watch to adapt to external and internal temperature variations.

U-Boat’s latest Capsoil offerings include this 45mm titanium Capsoil Titanio Chronograph, made as two limited editions of 150 pieces each. The second version is cased in blackened DLC titanium.

Under the high-quality sapphire crystal a two-level black dial, with beige hands and indexes treated with SuperLuminova, visible sealing screws and a metal plate screwed at 6 o’clock to distinguish the Titanio model from all other watches of the range. The optical effect of the oil creates a more intense black and offers higher legibility.

Price: $3,100 and $3,200 (DLC version).

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Zodiac Adds to Super Sea Wolf Series

Zodiac celebrates 140 years as a maker of Swiss-made dive and adventure watches with several new dive watches in its Super Sea Wolf collection.

As displayed earlier this summer at the Couture show in Las Vegas, these 42mm titanium-and/or steel-cased models channel much of the same utility that went into the original Sea Wolf’s 1953 design, but today also include a slew of technical updates.

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver Titanium.

One new model, the Super Sea Wolf Pro-Diver Titanium, reveals its appreciation of deep-sea diving through orange and green tones on the bezel and concave ring, and colorful accents on the black sunray dial. Superior luminescence means the dial’s markers and hands glow in the deep.

The classic Zodiac titanium case holds a Swiss-made automatic Sellita movement. Water resistance, as noted on the dial, is a solid 300 meters.

Zodiac supplies the watch with an ISO Diver’s certification, a brushed seven-link titanium butterfly-clasp bracelet and an orange and black matching strap. Zodiac also makes a steel-cased version. Price: $2,495 (titanium model).

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic Stainless Steel Watch.

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic Stainless Steel Watch is also perfectly proficient under the sea. While not Zodiac’s professional-diver level model, its impressive 200-meter water resistance rating will handle any moisture at the pool or the beach. And it will look terrific while doing so.

Its light blue accents, white dial and highly luminous markers and hands make the watch easy to read in any light. Price: $1,495.

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Ulysse Nardin Sets a Rainbow of Gems into Two Watches

Ulysse Nardin adorns its 39mm Lady Diver and 45mm black DLC titanium Blast Tourbillon X with purple, green, blue or pink gemstones to create a rainbow effect that echoes the iridescent rainbow colors of silicon.

The new Ulysse Nardin Blast Rainbow Tourbillon X.

The newly sparkling bezels and dials, which debuted during Geneva Watch Days, are meant to celebrate Ulysse Nardin’s pioneering use of silicon components. 

You may recall that in 2001 the Le Locle-based watchmaker was the first to debut a watch (the Freak) with silicon escapement components, jump-starting a technical revolution in the use of the material throughout the high-end Swiss watchmaking industry.

Ulysse Nardin sets the newest Blast Rainbow Tourbillon X with fifty rubies and sapphire baguette gemstones on its bezel and indexes.

The Blast Tourbillon X itself features a skeletonized X bridge and a black rectangular frame that geometrically opens views into the automatic flying tourbillon caliber UN-172. The impressive movement (pictured below), with its platinum micro-rotor and silicon escapement wheel, anchor & balance spring, is cased in black DLC titanium and sealed with a black ceramic polished and sandblasted upper case.

Ulysse Nardin’s Caliber-UN-172 with flying tourbillon.

Ulysse Nardin offers this new, glittery Blast Rainbow Tourbillion X as a limited edition of fifty. It arrives with a waterproof velvet rubber strap or a black alligator strap, together with a black DLC titanium and black ceramic self-deploying buckle. Price: $89,700.

The new Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver Rainbow is offered with a steel case or a blackened 39mm steel case.

The new 39mm Ulysse Nardin Lady Diver Rainbow, offered in either a steel case or a blackened steel case, is adorned with forty stones (ruby, aquamarine, topaz, tsavorite and sapphire) that the watchmaker has set on a concave unidirectional bezel. Eleven diamonds serve as indexes on the white-dialed or black-dialed watch.

Water resistant to 300 meters, the Lady Diver Rainbow is powered by Ulysse Nardin’s UN-816 automatic movement with silicon escapement components.

The watches, each limited to 300 units, will arrive attached to a white or black rubber strap. Price: $13,600. 

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MB&F Launches Sporty LM Split Escapement

MB&F is now widening the reach of its LM Split Escapement EVO, which debuted originally last year as a limited edition for the UAE’s 50th anniversary.

MB&F’s new Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO.

Launched during Geneva Watch Days, the new Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO version offers two modifications from existing models. One is the dial color, now a cool, icy light blue with grey subdials. The second change is that MB&F has rotated the entire mechanism clockwise by 30 degrees, creating a new sense of asymmetry to the LM Split Escapement dial.

The watch’s new EVO designation means MB&F has dedicated its sporty, bezel-free 44mm EVO case to house the spectacular movement, which, as it name implies, separates or ‘splits’ its escapement into two halves. Earlier LM Split Escapement models were housed in the MB&F’s dressier 44mm gold or titanium case.

Designed by Northern Irish master watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, the movement features the world’s longest balance staff. Traveling through the entire movement, the 12mm-long staff connects the large balance wheel (hovering over the dial) to the remaining parts of the escapement – anchor and escape wheel – on the opposite side of the movement.

The new model will be joined by a second, limited edition of the watch, available only at a new MB&F LAB store to be opened in Beverly Hills with long-time MB&F retail partner Westime.

The MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO, Beverly Hills Edition.

That model, limited to twenty-five units, comes with a black base plate, metallic blue dial and open counters. It will be the only MB&F LAB edition released this year.

MB&F is offering the Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO in two versions:

Titanium version: Grade 5 titanium case with pastel blue baseplate and dark grey dials.

Beverly Hills edition: Limited edition of 25 pieces in grade 5 titanium case with black baseplate and blue dials. Price for either model: $80,000.

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