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The Watches

Alpina Updates a Heritage Carrée Automatic 

Alpina launches a new version of its retro-styled Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years, now with a modern automatic movement instead the vintage caliber used in the model launched earlier this year. 

You might recall that in June the Geneva-based watchmaker launched a celebratory Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years outfitted with an authentic hand-wound Calibre 490 from 1938.

Now, Alpina is replicating the same watch’s retro-style with two unlimited models of the watch, one of which (the silver-dialed model) will be sold in the U.S. The second model with a black dial is available internationally outside the U.S.   

Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years. The silver-dialed model pictured above is available in the U.S.

The watch still uses a retro-sized cased, though at 32.5mm by 39mm, it’s still three millimeters larger than the initial model from June. The new watch’s dial also features a 1930s-style ‘sector’ dial with period Arabic numerals, dauphine hands, square small seconds sub-dial and the original Alpina logo.

Inside Alpina offers its AL-530 caliber, an automatic Sellita-based movement. Other contemporary updates include a domed sapphire crystal and a see-through back. Price: $1,595. 

Specifications: Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years 

(Ref. AL-530SAC3C6)

Movement: AL-530 caliber, automatic, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph. 

Case: Polished 32.50mm x 39mm x 9.71mm stainless steel two-part with anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30 meters, engraved and see-through screwed case-back. 

Dial: Silver with matte finishing, black printed Arabic numerals and black graduation, black hour and minute hands, small second counter at 6 o’clock with black hand.  

Strap: Light brown Ostrich leather strap with off-white stitching and pin buckle.

Price: $1,595.  

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American Brands

Isobrite Makes Waves with New Naval Series 

Miami-based ArmourLite Watch Company debuts the Isobrite T100 Naval Series, a trio of solid, eye-catching 300-meter dive watches.

One of three new watches in Isobrite T100 Naval Series. Pictured is the Naval Mariner.

Known for its highly shatter-resistant Armourglass crystals and luminous dials that feature Swiss-built tritium self-illuminated micro-tube watches, ArmourLite offers sports watches under its own name and under the Isobrite monicker. 

The watchmaker offers the new Isobrite T100 Naval Series in three models: a blue-dial Naval Mariner, the black-dial Naval Amphibian (above) and the all-black Naval Destroyer.

The Naval Destroyer

ArmourLite builds each 44mm watch in the series using 316L stainless steel, which frames sixteen tritium markers that glow to provide more than ample illumination for evening and underwater visibility.

Each features a high-end unidirectional sixty-click ceramic bezel, a screw-down, double-gasket crown and a solid engraved caseback.

ArmourLite fits a reliable Swiss-Made Ronda 715Li quartz movement (with a 10-year lithium battery) inside, fully protected with a 300-meter water resistance rating.

The Isobrite T100 Naval Series combines specifications rarely seen in a steel-bracelet watch priced at $595. And at $549 on a rubber strap, it’s an even stronger high-value option for weekend boaters and divers.

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Featured Events

Greubel Forsey Creates Carbon Convexe Cases 

During Geneva Watch Days Greubel Forsey introduced two of its Balancier Convex models in all-new carbon cases, each now measuring smaller in diameter than their existing titanium versions.

The new Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe Carbon, with its 42.5 mm carbon case.

The new cases give these complex open-work watches a sleeker, sportier look when compared to their earlier counterparts. The Convexe collection is meant to be this high-end maker’s contemporary ‘daily wear’ collection, and these debuts certainly underscore that direction.

The new Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe S² Carbon, now available in a 41.5mm carbon case.

Greubel Forsey explains that making its new carbon cases required a new technical approach that includes higher temperatures and greater pressure. Since the undulating Convexe case is anything but conventional, the company’s case-makers applied eight times the amount of pressure to create these cases when compared to the amount needed to create standard cases. 

Double Balancier Convex

Now measuring 42.5 mm in diameter, 1mm smaller in diameter than an existing titanium version of the watch, this newest Double Balancier Convex retains its trademark dual and inclined balance wheels linked by a spherical differential (between 6 and 7 o’clock.)

Look for two versions of the new watch. One features an iridescent green finish matched with blue accents and a red tip on the power reserve display.

The second version of the debut is darker, with contrasts provided primarily by the signature Greubel Forsey hand-finished movement that boasts top-level mirror polishing, sharp internal angles, straight and circular-grained surfaces, and curved hands with luminescent tips.

Greubel Forsey will make the Double Balancier Convexe carbon in twenty-two pieces of each variation (black and green with matching strap). Price: $392,000. 

Balancier Convex S2

Greubel Forsey has redesigned the Balancier Convexe S2 to account for its all-new carbon case. Now fit into a 41.5mm diameter size, smaller than existing 46.5mm models, the newest edition displays a noticeably tighter set of components, which accounts for its more compact look on the wrist.

The watch’s signature double open-work arched bridge remains as the watch’s beautifully polished centerpiece, again framing the wheel train below to appear as if it is suspended in air. The architectural layout, set within the undulating Convexe case shape, features three large hand-decorated bridges and a newly blackened twin barrel cover with relief engraving.

Greubel Forsey notes that even within the new carbon-cased model, the watch has retained its traditional case, lug and crown finishes.

The watchmaker will produce the new carbon-cased Balancier Convexe S2  in two limited editions of 22 pieces each, the small seconds with blue or black treatment, matching textured rubber strap, and a titanium and carbon buckle. Price: $290,000.

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Frederique Constant Celebrates 35 Years and 31 Calibers

To celebrate a manufacturing milestone and its own 35th anniversary, Frederique Constant during Geneva Watch Days is launching the Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture, a 40mm watch powered by Caliber FC-735, the watchmaker’s thirty-first manufacture caliber.

The new Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture, here pictured in a steel case.

And to spread the self-love, Frederique Constant is making the watch available in four versions, all of which feature displays indicating power reserve, date and moon phase.

One model features a rose gold case and a grey anthracite dial and will be a limited edition of 350. It will be offered on a brown alligator strap.

Two additional models, cased in steel with either a blue or silver dial, will join the watchmaker’s ongoing Manufacture collection.

These non-limited versions share the same polished steel case and blue alligator leather strap. (At $4,995 the steel edition with an in-house movement is a particularly strong example of this watchmaker’s goal to remain a manufacturer of ‘affordable’ luxury watches.)

A version in a platinum case and a meteorite dial (above) on a navy blue alligator strap will be issued as a limited edition of thirty-five and will be available later this fall.

Frederique Constant notes that the FC-735 is the watchmaker’s first caliber to offer a big date, a moon phase and a power reserve indicator together in one watch. 

Also notable is the fairly long fifty-hour power reserve built in to the watch and indicated at 9 o’clock. The dial is balanced out with the big date display between the 2 o’clock position and the 3 o’clock position and the bright moon phase display at the 6 o’clock position.

Frederique Constant again makes it a simple task to adjust and set all three of these displays. The time-set function and winding mechanism are all adjusted via the crown.

And as is typical of Frederique Constant Manufacture pieces, the caseback is fitted with clear sapphire, here allowing a view into the new FC-735 Manufacture caliber. 

Prices: $27,995 (platinum case–to debut later this year), $19,995 (rose gold case) and $4,995 (steel case). 

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The Watches

Girard-Perregaux Launches Laureato Absolute 8Tech

Girard-Perregaux updates its Laureato Absolute collection with the Laureato Absolute 8Tech, a watch built with an unusual, lightweight 44mm carbon-titanium case. 

The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute 8Tech.

The watch, presented during Geneva Watch Days, is the newest in the collection that emphasizes high-tech materials to create contemporary models within the original Laureato line. Laureato is the watchmaker’s pioneering luxury collection that in 1975 was among the first to combine an eight-sided steel case with an integrated steel bracelet.

Since Girard-Perregaux debuted its Laureato Absolute collection (in 2019) we’ve seen models built with materials such as metallized sapphire crystal, carbon glass and a rubber alloy. 

To case the new Absolute 8Tech, the watchmaker starts with carbon fibers and combines them with lightweight titanium powder to form extremely thin (0.05mm) layers.

These layers are then superimposed on one another to form ‘stacks’ that are cut into octagons, a process Girard-Perregaux says is an industry first.

After a period of hand-applied finishing, the case takes on a wavy appearance, which looks a bit like those made from Damascus steel.

As a lightweight yet extremely strong watch, the Laureato Absolute 8Tech is a sporty model with a sandwich-type grey dial built atop a layer of Grade 5 titanium, a metal partially visible through several apertures in the upper portion. Each opening serves as an index, and each lies adjacent to a luminescent marking.

Inside Girard-Perregaux fits its own superb automatic Caliber GP03300-1058, which is visible through a smoky sapphire crystal back. Not surprisingly, the movement is very nicely finished with Côtes de Genève, chamfering and straight graining. 

Price: $27,300. 

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